Western Australia in 21 Days: Perth, Margaret River, Ningaloo & the Kimberley
A three-week self-drive-and-fly odyssey from Perth's beaches and wine country to Ningaloo's whale sharks and the red-rock Kimberley coast.
21 days in Perth + 3 more
Western Australia is a single state that covers a third of the continent, roughly the size of Western Europe, yet holds fewer than three million people, most of them clustered around Perth. That scale is the whole point: within three weeks you can move from a polished capital fringed with white-sand beaches to old-growth karri forests, then to a reef where whale sharks glide past your snorkel, and finally to the pindan-red cliffs and thousand-island archipelagos of the Kimberley.
The rhythm of this trip follows the seasons. July is deep winter down south, meaning cool, sometimes wet days ideal for Margaret River cellar doors and forest caves, and it is peak dry season up north, when Ningaloo and Broome deliver warm, cloudless days and calm seas. Getting around means combining a hire car for the south west with domestic flights north, since the drive from Perth to Broome alone is over 2,200 kilometres. Distances are long and fuel stops are sparse once you leave the coast, so plan legs carefully.
Expect superb seafood (rock lobster, Shark Bay prawns, barramundi), some of Australia's most awarded wine, and a deep Aboriginal cultural presence that predates European arrival by tens of thousands of years. This itinerary leans on local operators and standout tours, flags the bookings that sell out in peak season, and balances marquee sights with the quieter beaches and cellar doors that make WA feel like your own discovery.
Perth City, Fremantle, Rottnest Island & the Pinnacles
Perth · File:Perth CBD skyline from State War Memorial Lookout, 2023, 04.jpg: Kgbo derivative work: Georgfotoart / CC BY-SA 4.0Perth takes its coffee seriously; start slow before the day heats up.
A West Perth favorite in a converted warehouse, roasting its own beans and turning out one of the city's best breakfasts (the corn fritters and house-cured salmon are staples). Buzzy but relaxed, a good pre-Kings Park stop.
A reliable specialty roaster near Elizabeth Quay for a quick, excellent flat white and a pastry before a river cruise or a walk along the foreshore.
Get the lay of the land from Perth's green crown, then dip into the compact CBD.
One of the world's largest inner-city parks at over 400 hectares, with sweeping views over the Swan River and skyline, a treetop walkway, and free daily guided walks. Entry is free; go early for the light and the wildflowers that linger into winter.
An easy way to link Kings Park, the Bell Tower, Perth Mint, and the CBD on your first morning, with commentary to orient you. Handy if you want to cover ground before collecting a hire car.
Spend an afternoon in Fremantle, the salty heritage port at the river mouth, then cool off at the beach.
WA's only UNESCO World Heritage site, a convict-built prison used until 1991, best seen on the guided Doing Time tour or the torch-lit Tunnels tour. Tickets run roughly AUD 22-65 depending on the experience; the Tunnels tour books out, so reserve ahead.
A restored 1897 market hall packed with produce, makers, and buskers (open Friday to Sunday), a short stroll from the cafe-lined South Terrace. A good browse-and-graze afternoon.
The classic Perth beach, with a gentle arc of white sand, a grassy terrace, and Norfolk pines, roughly midway between the city and Fremantle. Time it for sunset over the Indian Ocean and a drink at the Ocean Beach Hotel.
Ferry out to car-free Rottnest Island for a day of turquoise bays and the world's happiest-looking marsupial.
A ferry from Fremantle (about 30 minutes) plus a 90-minute island coach tour hitting Wadjemup Lighthouse, the salt lakes, and the best swimming bays, with time to meet the quokkas. Rent a bike or snorkel gear to explore the 63 beaches at your own pace; the island has no private cars.
Pick a big day trip beyond the city: the surreal Pinnacles Desert to the north, or the vines and produce of the Swan Valley on Perth's doorstep.
The limestone spires of Nambung National Park, about two hours north, are eeriest at golden hour; this tour pairs them with sand-boarding, dinner, and a mobile observatory for the Southern sky. A memorable full-day outing that avoids the long solo drive.
Perth's oldest wine region, 25 minutes from the city, is a leisurely trail of cellar doors, breweries, chocolate, and cheese. This small-group day trip handles the driving and curates the best stops, tastings included.
A more scenic way to reach the Swan Valley: cruise up the river from the city and arrive at a winery for lunch and tastings, then relax on the return. A rare chance to leave a capital city by boat and reach a wine region the same day.
Perth's dining has come a long way; here are three across styles and budgets.
Chef David Thompson's electric Thai in the State Buildings basement, dishing punchy street food and curries. Loud, fun, and consistently excellent; book ahead for weekends.
Fremantle's only true beachfront restaurant, with tables on the sand and a seafood-leaning menu; ideal if your afternoon ran into Fremantle. Come for sunset drinks and stay for the fish.
A splurge-worthy fine diner atop COMO The Treasury built around the six Noongar seasons and native ingredients, with a glass pavilion overlooking the city. Book well ahead for a special night.
Wind down along the water or up high over the city lights.
A revitalized riverside precinct with the swooping pedestrian bridge, waterfront bars, and the Bell Tower nearby; pleasant for an after-dinner stroll along the Swan.
A relaxed rooftop bar on Murray Street for a nightcap with skyline views. Casual, well-priced, and central.
Wineries, Limestone Caves, Karri Forest & the Surf Coast
A lush vineyard with city skyline and ocean in the background, captured on a bright day. · Photo by Magda Ehlers on PexelsFuel up in town before winding through the vines.
A friendly local cafe on the main strip pouring proper coffee and generous breakfasts. A good spot to plan the day's winery route.
A local roaster north of town with free tastings and a leafy setting; grab beans for the road north later in the trip. Great for serious coffee drinkers.
Give one day fully to the wine country, ideally with a driver so everyone can taste.
A small-group day among hand-picked, off-the-beaten-track producers, with tastings, a sit-down Italian lunch, and quirky farm stops. A relaxed way to sample the region without worrying about who drives.
If you'd rather set your own pace, string together the marquee estates: Vasse Felix (the region's founding winery, with a superb restaurant), Cullen Wines (biodynamic, excellent lunch), and Voyager Estate (grand rose gardens). Nominate a driver and keep tastings to a couple of stops.
The Leeuwin-Naturaliste ridge is riddled with show caves; one guided descent is a highlight.
A one-hour guided walk into a collapsed-doline cave reached by a stairway through a sunken forest, famous for its rare 'suspended table' formation reflected in a still underground lake. At around AUD 25-30 it's superb value and a fine wet-weather option.
A self-guided cave with an audio tour and boardwalks, home to fossil remains of extinct megafauna; easy and flexible if you prefer to go at your own pace.
Trade caves for coast and forest on another day: capes, big surf, and towering trees.
The tallest lighthouse on mainland Australia, marking the point where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet, at the region's southern tip near Augusta. Climb it for the view or watch for humpbacks passing offshore in season.
The powerful left-hand break that hosts a world-tour surf event; even non-surfers should stop to watch the sets roll in from the viewing area. Nearby Gnarabup has calmer swimming and a beach cafe.
A stand of tall, pale-trunked karri eucalypts with a scenic gravel drive and short walks, glorious in the low winter light. A quiet, atmospheric break between the coast and the caves.
Lunch is a main event here, whether at a winery table or a beach shack.
The region's original winery, with a polished restaurant overlooking the vines and a menu built around local produce paired with its estate wines. Book ahead for the dining room.
A casual beachfront spot for fish and chips or a burger with your toes near the sand, handy on a coast day. Relaxed and family-friendly.
Evenings back in town run from pub classics to serious local cooking.
A long-running local favorite on the main street for share plates, cocktails, and a warm room on a cold night. Consistently good and well priced.
The town's iconic pub, with a big beer and wine list, hearty meals, and regular live music. A relaxed, characterful end to a day among the vines.
Whale Sharks, Ningaloo Reef, Cape Range & Coral Bay
Exmouth, Western Australia · W. Bulach / CC BY-SA 4.0The headline experience of the whole trip: swimming with whale sharks on the outer reef.
A full-day boat trip with spotter-plane guidance to find whale sharks, then multiple guided swims alongside these gentle giants, plus reef snorkeling and lunch. The season runs roughly mid-March to early August, so July is prime; at around AUD 450 it is a splurge, but a genuine bucket-list day.
Spend a morning in Cape Range National Park, where red gorges meet the reef.
The signature Ningaloo swim: a drift snorkel where a gentle current carries you over vivid coral bommies teeming with fish, just metres offshore. Enter at the sandbar and exit before the point; the park entry fee is about AUD 17 per vehicle.
A short rim walk above a striking red-walled gorge where black-footed rock wallabies shelter, or take the small boat cruise on the creek. A good contrast to the reef at the park's southern end.
Not into the big-ticket whale shark tour, or want more reef time? The manta rays of Coral Bay are a superb alternative.
From Coral Bay (about 90 minutes south of Exmouth), this eco-safari finds the reef's resident manta rays, which are here year-round, along with reef snorkeling and wildlife spotting. A gentler, cheaper way to get an unforgettable big-animal swim.
One of Ningaloo's richest shore-snorkel sites, with dense coral close in; best at higher tides. Bring your own gear and check the tide chart before you go.
The Cape's west-facing coast serves up huge sunsets; find a vantage point.
A hilltop lighthouse above the cape with sweeping views over the reef and ranges, unbeatable at sunset. Nearby you can also spot the wreck of the SS Mildura at low tide.
An easy, calm beach close to town for a late swim or a stroll before dinner. Watch for turtles and rays in the shallows.
Exmouth dining is casual and seafood-forward.
A reliable local favorite for fresh seafood and steaks in a relaxed garden setting; the catch of the day is the move. Book ahead in peak season.
Exmouth's own brewery serving pizzas, burgers, and house beers, with a buzzy after-tour crowd. Easy and fun.
Cable Beach, Pearling History, Horizontal Falls & the Kimberley Coast
Cable Beach · Zoharby / CC BY-SA 3.0Ease into Broome time with a slow breakfast.
A relaxed Chinatown eatery good for breakfast and coffee, with Asian-influenced plates later in the day. A local go-to with shady outdoor tables.
A laid-back cafe-bar in a converted service station serving strong coffee and hearty breakfasts, popular with locals. Easygoing and unpretentious.
Get to know Broome's remarkable pearling and multicultural history.
A story-led, small-group tour that ties together Broome's pearling past, its Japanese and Aboriginal heritage, Chinatown, and the best beaches and lookouts. A superb orientation to a town that rewards context.
Red pindan cliffs plunging to turquoise sea, with 130-million-year-old dinosaur footprints visible in the reef rock at very low tide. Best photographed in the late afternoon light.
Devote a big day to the Kimberley's marquee natural wonder, best reached by seaplane from Broome.
A seaplane flight over the Buccaneer Archipelago to Talbot Bay, where huge tides force seawater through two narrow gorges to create the 'Horizontal Falls' David Attenborough called one of nature's great wonders, plus a fast-boat ride through the gaps. It's a premium splurge (around AUD 1,000+) but an unforgettable Kimberley experience.
A full-day adventure exploring the Buccaneer Archipelago's ancient islands and Koolan and Cockatoo Islands, combining scenic flights and boat cruising through this rarely seen coast. A grand, immersive alternative to the shorter falls trip.
A quieter half-day option: get out on Roebuck Bay to meet one of Australia's rarest marine mammals.
A small-group eco-cruise on Roebuck Bay in search of the endemic Australian snubfin dolphin, along with dugongs, turtles, and abundant birdlife. Run by Broome's most experienced eco-operator, it's a gentle, wildlife-rich afternoon.
With a spare day, take a big scenic-flight excursion into the Kimberley's interior; long and costly, but astonishing.
A full-day fly-in to the World Heritage beehive domes of Purnululu National Park, with a scenic flight over Lake Argyle and the Bungle Bungle Range plus guided ground walks. Note that this experience departs from Kununurra in the East Kimberley; from Broome it means a long day and extra flights, so plan it deliberately or add it if you route through Kununurra.
A lower-key day close to town: an outback wildlife park known for its large saltwater crocodiles, with feeding tours and native animals. Good for a relaxed afternoon between big excursions.
The nightly ritual: sunset over Cable Beach, ideally from the back of a camel.
The quintessential Broome image, a camel train silhouetted against the sunset on Cable Beach. This one-hour ride at golden hour is touristy in the best way and genuinely lovely; book the sunset slot ahead.
The world's oldest operating outdoor picture garden, screening films under the stars in Chinatown since 1916. A charming, only-in-Broome night out.
Round out the trip with Broome's laid-back, seafood-and-tropical dining.
An institution in a heritage building overlooking Roebuck Bay, famous for its mango and ginger beers and a broad menu of pub food and seafood. Get there before sunset for the view.
By night, a lively Chinatown spot for shared Asian-inspired plates and a good drinks list. A relaxed, flavorful way to end the day.
Pick your base
The CBD and adjacent East End are best for first-timers, close to Kings Park, Elizabeth Quay, and the train line to Fremantle and the airport. Northbridge suits night owls (bars, small restaurants, galleries), while Fremantle is the pick if you want a beachy, heritage port-town feel and don't mind commuting into the city.
A design-led boutique hotel in Northbridge with a rooftop terrace and a sociable communal lounge, steps from the Perth Cultural Centre and the train station. Rooms are compact but beautifully considered, and the location is unbeatable for restaurants and galleries.
A playful, art-filled hotel on Murray Street in the CBD, with a lively rooftop bar and easy walking access to the shopping arcades and Elizabeth Quay. Reliable mid-range comfort with personality.
Spacious one-bedroom apartments with kitchens and river views on Adelaide Terrace, ideal for families or anyone wanting to self-cater before the long haul north. There's a pool and it's a short walk to the Swan River foreshore.
A dependable, clean-and-simple option on Murray Street in the heart of the CBD, well priced for a launchpad stay. Good for travelers who want location over frills.
Perth's most celebrated hotel, set inside restored 1890s state buildings in the CBD, home to the acclaimed Wildflower and Post restaurants. A genuine splurge worth one memorable night before you head bush.
An adults-focused boutique retreat near Yallingup with beautifully designed rooms set among gardens, plus a spa. Quiet, romantic, and central to the northern wineries.
A comfortable, updated hotel right on the main street, so you can walk to cafes, the pub, and shops. A sensible, well-located mid-range base for exploring by car each day.
Self-contained apartments and villas at Gnarabup, a short walk from a sheltered swimming beach and cafe. The kitchens and pool make it a strong pick for families.
For longer stays or groups, a private vineyard cottage or bush retreat lets you cook with local produce and settle in. VRBO has a good spread across the wine country and coast.
Beachfront villas around a lagoon pool on gorgeous Bunker Bay near Cape Naturaliste, at the resort end of the region. A relaxing splurge if you want the coast over the vines.
Exmouth's flagship resort beside the marina, with a pool, restaurant, and rooms and apartments a short walk from the water. The most polished mainstream base in town.
A simple, well-run lodge in town with a shared kitchen, pool, and BBQ area, popular with divers and road-trippers. Excellent value for a reef base.
Cabins, villas, and powered sites with a pool and playground, geared to families and self-drivers. Spacious and relaxed, with easy access to town.
A luxury safari-style eco-camp tucked into the dunes of Cape Range National Park, with the reef literally out front. An iconic, off-grid splurge; it books out months ahead.
A comfortable hotel near Chinatown and Roebuck Bay with a pool and easy access to town and the port. A practical, good-value mid-range base with tour pickups on the doorstep.
Self-contained apartments and villas set in tropical gardens near Cable Beach, with a pool and space to spread out. A strong choice for families or a longer, slower stay.
A stylish small resort with safari tents, villas, and a lovely pool a short walk from Cable Beach. Relaxed and design-conscious without the big-resort price.
A friendly, good-value resort in Old Broome with a pool and shared facilities, handy to Chinatown. Simple rooms that keep costs down at trip's end.
Broome's iconic resort, spread across gardens directly opposite Cable Beach, with a pearling-era design theme and multiple pools. The definitive splurge to close out a big trip.
Good to know
How many days do you need to see Western Australia?
Western Australia is enormous, so a genuinely rewarding trip needs at least two to three weeks. Three weeks, as in this itinerary, lets you pair the south west (Perth and Margaret River) with the north (Ningaloo and Broome) without rushing, though you'll still only scratch the surface of the state.
What is the best time to visit Western Australia?
It depends on the region. The south west (Perth, Margaret River) is best from September to May, while the north (Exmouth, Broome, the Kimberley) is best in the dry season from about May to October. July, used in this itinerary, is a strong compromise: cool but pleasant down south and ideal, warm, dry conditions up north, plus the tail end of Ningaloo's whale shark season.
Can you swim with whale sharks at Ningaloo Reef in July?
Yes. Whale shark swim tours at Ningaloo Reef, based out of Exmouth and Coral Bay, generally run from mid-March to around early August, so July is well within the season. Because these are the region's most popular tours, book your date as far ahead as possible.
How do you get around Western Australia on a three-week trip?
The most practical approach combines a hire car for the south west with domestic flights for the long distances north. This itinerary drives Perth to Margaret River, then flies Perth to Exmouth (Learmonth) and on to Broome, since driving Perth to Broome alone is more than 2,200 km. Distances between fuel and services are long, so plan legs carefully.
Is Western Australia expensive to travel in?
It can be, particularly in the remote north during peak dry season, when flights, accommodation, and marine tours in Exmouth and Broome carry premium prices. You can manage costs by booking flights and lodging early, self-catering in apartment stays, and mixing splurge experiences (like whale sharks or Horizontal Falls) with free beaches, national parks, and self-drive exploring.
What is the best area to stay in Broome for first-time visitors?
Cable Beach is the top choice for first-timers who want a relaxed, beachy base within walking distance of the sand and the famous sunset camel rides. Old Broome and Chinatown are better if you prefer to be near the historic pearling sites, restaurants, and the port; most tours offer pickups from both areas.
In three weeks Western Australia unfolds from polished capital to remote reef to red-rock coast: quokkas and cellar doors near Perth, karri forests and world-class wine at Margaret River, whale sharks and turquoise shallows at Ningaloo, and camel-crossed beaches and tidal waterfalls in Broome. It is a big, gloriously varied journey that rewards planning the flights and marquee tours early. Come with time and curiosity, and WA will give you one of the most memorable trips in Australia.