Varkala in Two Days: Cliffs, Temples, and Monsoon Kerala
A compact two-day escape along Kerala's red laterite cliffs, where Arabian Sea sunsets meet temple bells, ayurvedic oils, and plates of fresh-grilled fish.
2 days in Varkala
Varkala is the rare beach town where geology does the heavy lifting: a wall of rust-red laterite cliffs rises straight from the Arabian Sea, threaded with a cliff-top path of cafes, yoga shalas, and curio stalls. Below, Papanasam Beach has drawn pilgrims for centuries, its name meaning roughly 'washing away of sins,' a place Hindus come to honor ancestors at the water's edge.
The town pairs that sacred history with an easygoing traveler scene. You can start a morning with temple bells at the 2,000-year-old Janardanaswamy shrine, spend the afternoon under an ayurvedic oil massage, and watch the sun drop into the sea with a plate of grilled kingfish in front of you. It is compact, walkable, and friendly to a modest budget, which makes even a short stay feel full.
Your visit lands in the southwest monsoon, so expect warm, humid days around 25-30C with dramatic bursts of rain, electric-green landscapes, low prices, and few crowds. The sea runs rough and lifeguards often fly red flags, so swim only where and when they allow; pack a light rain shell, quick-dry clothes, sandals with grip for slick cliff steps, and strong insect repellent. Getting around is simple and cheap by autorickshaw, and most of the cliff is best explored on foot.
Arrival, Clifftop Sunset, and Papanasam Beach
Varkala · Devender Goyal / CC BY-SA 4.0Drop your bags and walk straight to the North Cliff path, the spine of Varkala life, where the laterite drops to the sea and the views open up. Take your time strolling the promenade and getting oriented before the light turns golden.
The clifftop path is Varkala's main artery: a walkable stretch of cafes, craft stalls, and railed lookout points perched above the Arabian Sea. Stroll it end to end to scout dinner spots and find your favorite sunset bench. In July the path can be slick after rain, so wear sandals with grip.
If you arrive with energy to spare, a 15-minute autorickshaw ride north reaches Kappil, where a lagoon meets the sea in a green monsoon setting. It is quieter and more scenic than the main beach, and a short bridge gives a fine vantage point. Agree on the fare (roughly 250-350 rupees round trip) before you go.
Varkala's sunset is the day's headline act, with the cliff facing due west over open water. Claim a seafront table or a railing spot before the crowd gathers.
On clear monsoon evenings the sun slides into the sea in a wash of orange and violet, often framed by dramatic storm clouds. The lookout points along the North Cliff are free and unbeatable. Bring a light rain shell in case a squall rolls through.
A reliable clifftop perch for a fresh lime soda or chai while the sun goes down, with front-row sea views. Casual, friendly, and easy on the wallet for a sunset drink. Tables fill quickly on clear evenings.
Seafood is the reason to be here: many cliff restaurants display the day's catch on ice and grill it to order with Keralan spices. Pick your fish, settle in, and listen to the surf below.
A long-running cliff favorite known for fresh catch-of-the-day grilled with garlic and Keralan masala, plus solid thalis and seafood curries. Point to the fish you want and they weigh and cook it. Good value and a steady local-traveler crowd.
Several neighboring cliff kitchens lay out the day's kingfish, prawns, and squid on ice each evening and grill to order. Expect a relaxed pace, sea breeze, and a plate of fish with rice and salad for a modest sum. Confirm the per-kilo price before they cook.
A budget-friendly spot for Keralan and North Indian staples, good fresh juices, and breakfast-to-dinner versatility. A dependable, low-key choice if you want curries and rice over seafood. Portions are generous for the price.
Temple Morning, Holy Springs, and a Slow Farewell
Janardanaswamy Temple · Dev / CC0Start gently with coffee and a Keralan breakfast before the day warms up. The cliff cafes do a fine job with both Western plates and local classics.
A popular cliff cafe pulling proper espresso alongside big breakfasts, from banana pancakes to eggs and fresh fruit. A good caffeine fix before a temple visit. Arrive early to beat the late-morning crowd.
For something local, order appam (lacy rice pancakes) with egg or vegetable stew, or puttu and kadala curry, at one of the cliff or village kitchens. It is the most satisfying way to start a Kerala morning and costs very little. Many cafes serve it until late morning.
Spend the morning with Varkala's sacred side, an easy contrast to the cafe scene. The temple and nearby beach steps are a short autorickshaw hop or a downhill walk from the cliff.
This roughly 2,000-year-old Vishnu temple anchors Varkala's spiritual life, set just above Papanasam Beach. Non-Hindus can admire the architecture and atmosphere from the grounds; dress modestly (covered shoulders and knees) and remove shoes before entering. Mornings bring bells, flowers, and pilgrims fresh from the sea.
The main beach below the cliff is a pilgrimage site where visitors bathe in waters believed to wash away sins, often performing ancestral rituals at the shore. It is a fascinating, living cultural scene as much as a beach. Swimming is risky in the monsoon swell, so watch the lifeguard flags and keep to the shallows.
A short autorickshaw ride inland, this hilltop ashram is the resting place of the revered social reformer Sree Narayana Guru and a calm, contemplative stop. The white shrine and gardens draw pilgrims year-round. Worth the detour if temples and spiritual history interest you.
Wind down with one last proper Kerala meal before you head out. A banana-leaf thali is the perfect, affordable send-off.
A no-frills local institution near the temple serving an excellent vegetarian Kerala meals plate (sadya-style) on a banana leaf for a few hundred rupees. Fast, authentic, and beloved by locals. A fitting, budget-friendly final meal.
A relaxed cliff kitchen with Keralan thalis, seafood, and fresh juices if you want one more sea view with lunch. Easygoing service and fair prices. Good for lingering before a midday departure.
Before catching your train or taxi, leave a little buffer for a final coffee and a last look at the sea. Varkala Sivagiri station is about 10-15 minutes away by autorickshaw.
Grab an iced coffee or fresh juice on the cliff, do any last-minute shopping for textiles or spices, then arrange an autorickshaw to the station (around 100-150 rupees). Build in extra time in July, as monsoon downpours can slow traffic. Confirm your train platform on arrival.
Pick your base
Base yourself on or just behind the North Cliff, the heart of the action, where the clifftop path links cafes, shops, and sea-view sunsets within an easy walk. For a quieter, slightly cheaper feel, the area around Odayam Beach and the South Cliff trades nightlife for calm. Staying near the cliff means you can skip transport entirely and walk to nearly everything.
A well-run surf-and-yoga stay above Odayam Beach with sea views, a good cafe, and a relaxed crowd. A comfortable mid-range pick that still feels personal and close to the quieter end of the cliff.
A long-standing North Cliff favorite right on the clifftop path, steps from cafes and sea views, with a pool and reliable comfort. Ideal for first-timers who want to walk to everything.
A friendly, highly rated boutique B&B with home-cooked breakfasts and helpful hosts, just back from the cliff. Excellent value that punches above its price for a budget-minded traveler.
Self-catering villas and apartments near the cliff suit families or small groups who want kitchen space and room to spread out. Renting privately keeps costs down for longer or multi-person stays.
Good to know
How many days do you need in Varkala?
Two days is enough to see Varkala's highlights, including the North Cliff promenade, a sunset over the Arabian Sea, Papanasam Beach, and Janardanaswamy Temple. Add a third day if you want unhurried beach time, an ayurvedic treatment, or a backwater day trip to Kappil or nearby villages.
What is the best area to stay in Varkala for first-time visitors?
The North Cliff is the best base for first-timers, with the clifftop path linking cafes, shops, and the finest sunset viewpoints within walking distance. For a quieter, slightly cheaper stay, look to Odayam Beach or the South Cliff, which trade nightlife for calm.
What is Varkala like in July during the monsoon?
July falls in the southwest monsoon, bringing warm, humid weather around 25-30C, frequent heavy rain, lush green scenery, low prices, and few tourists. The sea is rough and swimming is often restricted, so it is a season for atmosphere, relaxation, and value rather than beach swimming.
How do you get around Varkala?
Varkala is compact and the cliff area is best explored on foot. For longer hops, such as to Varkala Sivagiri railway station, Sivagiri Mutt, or Kappil Beach, autorickshaws are cheap and plentiful; agree on the fare before you set off, typically 100-350 rupees depending on distance.
Is Varkala a budget-friendly destination?
Yes. Varkala suits modest budgets, especially in monsoon season when room rates drop. Banana-leaf vegetarian thalis cost a few hundred rupees, fresh-grilled seafood dinners on the cliff are reasonably priced, and autorickshaw rides are inexpensive, so a comfortable day can cost relatively little.
Can non-Hindus visit Janardanaswamy Temple in Varkala?
Non-Hindus are generally welcome in the temple grounds to take in the architecture and atmosphere, though access to inner sanctums may be restricted. Dress modestly with shoulders and knees covered, remove your shoes before entering, and visit in the morning for the liveliest ritual scene.
Two days in Varkala balances the sacred and the laid-back: temple bells and holy springs in the morning, clifftop sunsets and seafood by night, all at monsoon-season prices and pace. Pack light rain gear, respect the red flags at the beach, and let this small Kerala town slow you down. It is a short trip that lingers long after you leave.