Cradled in India’s far northeast, Meghalaya means “abode of clouds”—and it lives up to the name. The Khasi, Jaintia, and Garo Hills catch the monsoon, carving canyons, limestone caves, and roaring cascades that tumble off emerald plateaus. From sky-blue rivers to rain-fed forests where roots are trained into bridges, the state is a naturalist’s playground.

Shillong, once a colonial hill station, grew into India’s rock-music capital with cozy cafés, busy markets, and a lake at its heart. South of the city, Cherrapunjee (Sohra) and nearby villages shelter living root bridges and a constellation of famous waterfalls like Nohkalikai and Seven Sisters Falls. Mawsynram, just west, regularly ranks among the wettest places on Earth.

Practical notes: October–April offers clear skies and great visibility; June–September is magical but very wet. Roads are winding—plan generous drive times. Carry a light rain jacket year-round, sturdy hiking shoes for steps and slick stones, and some cash for rural checkpoints and village entry fees. Mobile data is best on Jio and Airtel.

Shillong

Nicknamed the “Scotland of the East,” Shillong sits at 1,500+ meters with pine-scented air and rolling hills. Colonial-era lanes meet bustling Khasi markets, and music drifts from cafés named after guitar gods. It’s your gateway to Umiam Lake, Laitlum Canyon, and day trips south toward Dawki.

Top sights include Ward’s Lake, the Cathedral of Mary Help of Christians, Elephant Falls, Laitlum Canyon’s dizzying ridge views, and the Don Bosco Museum’s excellent ethnographic galleries and skywalk. For food, seek Khasi staples—jadoh (rice with pork), dohneiiong (pork in black sesame), and tungrymbai (fermented soybean). Small dining rooms and home-style kitchens deliver the most memorable plates.

• Stay: Browse stays near Police Bazar for easy dining and markets or golf-course-adjacent cottages for quiet. Search options on VRBO Shillong and Hotels.com Shillong.
• Getting in: Fly into Guwahati (GAU), then drive 3–3.5 hours to Shillong. Compare flights on Trip.com Flights or Kiwi.com. Trains from across India arrive in Guwahati—check schedules on Trip.com Trains. From Guwahati, shared cabs from Paltan Bazar are ~INR 400–550 per seat; a private taxi runs ~INR 2,800–4,000 ($34–$48).

Cherrapunjee (Sohra)

Famed for rainfall and dramatic escarpments, Sohra is where cliffs dissolve into cloud, caves snake beneath forests, and rivers run over ledges in veils. It’s also the heartland of living root bridges—ingenious bioengineering shaped by Khasi communities over generations.

Base in Sohra to reach Nohkalikai Falls’ legendary plunge pool, Mawsmai and Arwah caves’ limestone galleries, Wei Sawdong’s tiered pools, and the Nongriat Double Decker root bridge—one of India’s bucket-list treks. Evenings are for mist, stargazing on rare clear nights, and hot plates of smoky Khasi pork.

• Stay: Look for homestays with valley views or resort rooms near the cliffs. Compare on VRBO Cherrapunjee and Hotels.com Cherrapunjee.
• Getting there from Shillong: 55–60 km, ~2–2.5 hours by car (INR 2,500–3,500/$30–$42). Roads are narrow; start early to beat fog.

Day 1: Arrival at Guwahati — Drive to Shillong, Lakeside Stroll, Khasi Dinner

Afternoon: Land at Guwahati (GAU). If you haven’t booked transport, negotiate a prepaid taxi to Shillong (3–3.5 hours) or reserve in advance. Keep INR cash for tolls and a tea stop; the hill road is scenic with viewpoints over Umiam Lake.

Evening: Check in and stretch your legs around Ward’s Lake and the adjoining Botanical Garden as the city lights blink on. For dinner, try Trattoria (Police Bazar; tiny, beloved, no-frills) for pork jadoh, dohneiiong, and spicy bamboo-shoot chutneys; lines move fast and food is authentic. Alternatively, City Hut Family Dhaba serves North Indian plates—order tandoori pomfret or paneer tikka with lachha paratha. Nightcap at Dylan’s Cafe (Beatles memorabilia, comfort food, and good cappuccinos).

Day 2: Shillong Highlights, Canyon Views, and Neighborhood Walk

Morning: Join a curated city overview with the Best of Shillong (Guided Halfday Sightseeing Tour by Car).

Expect Ward’s Lake, the Cathedral, Don Bosco Museum (excellent rooftop skywalk), and Elephant Falls, with a driver-guide to time crowds. Grab a quick breakfast beforehand at Bread Cafe (fresh bakes, savory puffs) or Cafe Shillong (scrambled eggs on toast, local coffee).

Afternoon: Head to Laitlum Canyon for vertigo-inducing views over ridgelines and villages; go mid-afternoon for color and safer winds. Late lunch at Cafe Shillong Heritage (Shillong-style pork ribs, slow music) or a plate of momos and thukpa at a Police Bazar stall.

Evening: Learn the city’s stories on the Laithmukhrah Walk in Shillong (2 Hours Guided Walking Tour).

It winds through leafy lanes, bakeries, and churches with anecdotes about Khasi matriliny and hill-station life. Dinner: Dejavu (pan-Asian; Khao Suey and crisp chili pork) or return to Trattoria for seconds if you missed it yesterday.

Day 3: Full-Day Dawki and the Crystal-Clear Umngot River

Take a classic cross-border-valley run with the Day Trip to Dwaki (Guided Private Sightseeing Experience from Shillong).

Expect an early start (7–7:30 a.m.). The Umngot River in Dawki can be glass-clear post-monsoon; hire a canoe for photographs where the boat seems to float in air. Stop at Shnongpdeng suspension bridge and optional viewpoints. Lunch is simple—grilled fish and rice at riverside shacks, or pack sandwiches from Dylan’s Cafe. Return to Shillong by evening for dinner at City Hut Family Dhaba (dal makhani, butter chicken) or Cafe Shillong (pepper chicken, live acoustic sets some nights).

Day 4: Transfer Shillong → Cherrapunjee with Waterfall Stops

Turn the transfer into a sightseeing day with the Pvt. Full Day Trip to Cherrapunjee (Sohra) with Lunch.

Ask to end in Sohra instead of returning to Shillong (most operators accommodate for a fee). En route, pause at Wei Sawdong Falls for a short rope-assisted descent to teal pools (go slow; paths can be slick), and then Nohkalikai Falls for the grand viewpoint and market stalls selling bay leaf, black sesame, and smoked meats. Check in by late afternoon.

Evening: Dinner at Orange Roots (vegetarian; thalis, hot jalebis) or Jiva Grill for tandoori platters with valley views. Sleep early—the big trek is tomorrow.

Day 5: Nongriat Double Decker Living Root Bridge Trek (Full Day)

This is a full-day, stair-heavy adventure—no need to break into morning/afternoon/evening. Drive 30–45 minutes to Tyrna trailhead and hire a local guide (recommended; ~INR 800–1,200 for a small group). Descend ~3,000–3,500 concrete and steel steps through forest and hamlets, cross suspension bridges, and reach the Double Decker Living Root Bridge. Strong swimmers can dip in natural pools; carry a packable towel and water shoes.

Bring 2–3 liters of water per person, electrolytes, sun cap, and cash for entry fees and village lunch (try bamboo shoot pork or egg curry with rice). Many continue 45–60 minutes to Rainbow Falls for turquoise water under a basalt ledge. Expect the return ascent to take longer—pace yourselves and start before 8 a.m. if possible.

Day 6: Caves and Cascades: Mawsmai, Arwah, Dainthlen, Seven Sisters

Morning: Easy caving at Mawsmai Cave (short, lit passage with squeeze-throughs) before crowds, followed by Arwah Cave (larger chambers and fossils—bring a small torch for photos even though it’s lit). Coffee and breakfast sandwiches at Cafe Cherrapunjee on the Sohra road if you want a view with your brew.

Afternoon: Visit Dainthlen Falls and the rocky riverbed above it, then drive to Seven Sisters (Nohsngithiang) Falls and the Eco Park rim for layered views across Bangladesh’s plains. In the dry season, the falls can reduce to threads; post-monsoon they roar. Lunch again at Orange Roots (quick service) or a local dhaba for Khasi pork with roselle leaves.

Evening: Golden hour at a quiet cliffside turnout. If skies clear, stargaze after dinner—Sohra’s light pollution is low. For your final feast, try a homestay kitchen’s smoked pork with black sesame and bamboo shoot stew, or grab grilled trout and naan at Jiva Grill.

Day 7: Return to Guwahati via Umiam Lake — Departure

Morning: Depart Sohra by ~7:00 a.m. to allow 5–6 hours for the drive to Guwahati Airport, factoring Shillong traffic. Stop at Umiam Lake for a last photo and a quick breakfast—omelets, puri-bhaji, and tea at roadside cafés near the viewpoints.

Afternoon (Departure): Catch your flight. If you’re traveling onward within India, compare last-minute options on Trip.com Flights or Kiwi.com. For rail to Kolkata/Delhi and beyond, see Trip.com Trains from Guwahati.

Optional Add-On or Swap (from Shillong): Mawlynnong & Root Bridges

If you’d prefer a village day over Dawki, swap Day 3 for the Day Trip to Mawlynnong (Guided Private Sightseeing Experience).

Stroll “Asia’s cleanest village,” meet local gardeners, and walk the nearby single-decker living root bridge at Riwai. Expect handwoven bamboo crafts and home kitchens serving sticky rice and vegetable curries.

Eating & Coffee Shortlist

• Shillong: Trattoria (Khasi staples; tiny and terrific), City Hut Family Dhaba (classic North Indian), Dylan’s Cafe (burgers, pancakes, cappuccinos), Cafe Shillong (grills, good coffee), Bread Cafe (pastries), Dejavu (pan-Asian).
• Sohra: Orange Roots (veg thalis, fast service), Jiva Grill (tandoor and grills with views), 7 Trep (local plates; rotating specials), Cafe Cherrapunjee (breakfasts and coffee on the highway ridge).

Where to Stay (Filters to Use)

• Shillong: Near Police Bazar for markets and cafés; Golf Links for greenery; Laitumkhrah for student-area eateries. Compare on VRBO Shillong and Hotels.com Shillong.
• Cherrapunjee (Sohra): Cliff-edge resorts for waterfall views; village homestays for culture and early trail access. See VRBO Cherrapunjee and Hotels.com Cherrapunjee.

Transport Notes & Costs

• Guwahati → Shillong: 3–3.5 hours by car; INR 2,800–4,000 private; shared cab ~INR 400–550 per seat.
• Shillong → Dawki/Mawlynnong: 2.5–3.5 hours one way; make it a full-day tour (as above).
• Shillong → Sohra: 2–2.5 hours; INR 2,500–3,500 private car. Roads can fog up late afternoon.
• Sohra → Guwahati (Airport): 5–6 hours with Shillong traffic; depart early.

In one week, you’ve skimmed cloud-swept ridges, walked living architecture, and tasted Khasi flavors from market stalls to homestay kitchens. Meghalaya rewards unhurried travelers—keep this guide handy, and return in another season to see how the waterfalls, forests, and skies transform.