Once called Madras, Chennai grew around Fort St. George in the 1600s and blossomed into the cultural capital of South India. The city is the heartbeat of Carnatic music, Bharatanatyam dance, and legendary filter coffee, with neighborhoods that feel like living museums.

Expect soaring gopurams at ancient temples in Mylapore, a serene basilica by the sea, and one of the longest urban beaches in the world. Food is a headline attraction—from tiffin staples like idli and dosa to Chettinad spice, coastal seafood, and the city’s own invention, Chicken 65.

Practical notes: Dress modestly for temples and remove shoes before entering sanctums. The best weather is November–February; October–December can bring heavy northeast monsoon rains. Use the metro, rideshares, or metered autos; carry small bills and hydrate in the heat.

Chennai

Chennai is an easy city to fall for: a place where dawn pujas, roaring surf, and cinema billboards share the skyline. Its rhythm is unhurried yet confident—perfect for a short, culture-rich city break.

Top highlights include the Dravidian-style Kapaleeshwarar Temple in Mylapore, San Thome Basilica above the tomb of St. Thomas, and colonial-era Fort St. George. Balance heritage with sea air at Marina or Elliot’s Beach, and finish with piping-hot filter coffee.

• Don’t miss: Mylapore tank lanes at dusk; the Fort St. George Museum; panoramic views from the Madras Lighthouse; and street eats in Sowcarpet’s buzzing lanes.
• Local flavor: Try sambar-soaked idlis at Ratna Cafe, crisp dosas at Rayar’s Mess, peppery Chettinad curries at Ponnusamy, and fresh catch near the shore.
• Getting around: The Chennai Metro connects the airport to central hubs; autos are plentiful; traffic is busy but manageable if you plan by neighborhood.

Getting to Chennai (MAA): Most travelers fly into Chennai International Airport.

• Flights: Compare fares on Trip.com Flights or Kiwi.com. Typical nonstop times: Bengaluru (1 hr), Mumbai (1 hr 50 min), Delhi (2 hr 55 min); domestic fares often run $40–$120 USD when booked ahead.
• Trains (within India): Check schedules on Trip.com Trains. Examples: Bengaluru–Chennai Shatabdi ~4.5–5 hrs (~$12–$20), Madurai–Chennai overnight (~8–9 hrs).
• Airport to city: Metro Blue Line (Airport ↔ city center) ~30–45 min; rideshare/Taxi to Mylapore or Nungambakkam 30–60 min depending on traffic.

Where to stay: Base yourself in Mylapore (heritage and temples), Nungambakkam/T. Nagar (shopping and dining), or near the coast (Besant Nagar/Adyar) for sea breezes.

• Hotels.com search (all budgets): See Chennai stays on Hotels.com. Notable picks include ITC Grand Chola (Guindy, resort-scale amenities), The Leela Palace (seafront elegance), Taj Coromandel (Nungambakkam classic), and GRT Grand (great value near T. Nagar).
• VRBO apartments: Browse Chennai vacation rentals on VRBO for family-friendly condos near the metro or sea-view flats along the coast.

Day 1: Mylapore, San Thome, and the Sea

Morning: If you arrive early, start with a tiffin breakfast in Mylapore. Rayar’s Mess (tiny, beloved) serves paper-thin dosas, vadai, and frothy degree coffee; arrive by 7:30–8:30 am to beat the line. Nearby, Mylai Karpagambal Mess is a stalwart for ghee-laced pongal and crispy medu vadas.

Afternoon: After checking in, head to Kapaleeshwarar Temple (7th century, rebuilt later) to admire its colorful gopuram covered in deities; dress modestly and remove shoes. Wander the tank lanes to Jannal Kadai (a “window shop”) for hot bajji and banana bonda, then continue to San Thome Basilica, a serene white church said to stand over the apostle St. Thomas’s tomb.

Lunch: Try Sangeetha Veg Restaurant (Mylapore) for a quick South Indian thali, or go to Ratna Cafe (Triplicane) for their famous sambar-idli—servers will gladly flood your plate with extra sambar. Coffee break at Amethyst (Royapettah): a garden cafe with airy verandas, perfect for cake and a second filter coffee.

Evening: Make for the waterfront. Stroll Marina Beach near the lighthouse (there’s a small museum and an elevator to the viewing deck; check same-day hours), or opt for the calmer Elliot’s Beach (Besant Nagar) where locals gather for sunset. For dinner, choose one of these standouts:

• The Marina (College Road): Market-style seafood where you pick the catch and cooking method; go for seer fish fry and prawn masala.
• Ponnusamy Hotel (Nungambakkam): Chettinad classics—pepper chicken, nethili (anchovy) fry, and fiery mutton chukka.
• Dakshin (Crowne Plaza): A refined South Indian experience with live dosa, appams, and regional tasting plates—ideal if you want a celebratory first night.

Cap the night with artisanal scoops at Amadora Gourmet Ice Cream (Nungambakkam)—try South Indian-inspired flavors like filter coffee or jaggery with toasted coconut.

Day 2: Forts, Museums, Markets, and Arts

Morning: Begin at Fort St. George, the first British fortress in India (founded 1639). Explore the museum’s Company-era maps, coins, and portraits, and step into St. Mary’s Church, one of the oldest Anglican churches east of Suez. Then continue to the Government Museum, Egmore for Chola bronzes and archaeological treasures (note: usually closed Fridays; if so, walk the heritage lanes of George Town instead).

Breakfast ideas: If you’ve not yet indulged, stop at Murugan Idli Shop (T. Nagar or Besant Nagar) for fluffy idlis, mini idlis swimming in sambar, and a carousel of chutneys. Alternatively, Ratna Cafe (again!) is a worthy repeat.

Afternoon: Dive into Sowcarpet for North-Indian-style street snacks: try Kakada Ramprasad (chaat, pani puri, jalebi), Ajnabi Mithaivala (kachori, sweets), and tall glasses of badam milk. If you prefer shopping, head to T. Nagar (Pondy Bazaar) for saree emporiums like Nalli, RMKV, and Pothys—excellent for silk purchases and souvenir textiles. Pause for coffee at Amethyst Bloom (Pondy Bazaar) or grab a rose milk from a street stall.

Evening: Circle back to the coast for a relaxed end. At Besant Nagar, walk to the Ashtalakshmi Temple overlooking the Bay of Bengal, then graze the beachside stalls (molaga bajji and sundal are local favorites). If you’re keen on culture, check the evening schedule at venues along TTK Road—Music Academy, Narada Gana Sabha, and Kamaraj Arangam often host Carnatic concerts or Bharatanatyam performances, especially in the December–January season.

Dinner: For a final feast, consider:

• Buhari (Anna Salai/Mount Road): Iconic biryani house credited with creating Chicken 65—order both for a Chennai original.
• Ente Keralam (RA Puram): Banana leaf meals, appam–stew, Karimeen pollichathu; warm, homely flavors from neighboring Kerala.
• The Paati Veedu (T. Nagar): “Grandma’s house” vibes with set meals and seasonal podis—book ahead for dinner slots.

Optional nightcap: a breezy walk under the palms at Tholkappia Poonga side lanes in Adyar (park hours vary) or a quick stop for falooda or kulfi near Marina before you pack up.

Departure logistics: For flights home, compare fares on Trip.com Flights or Kiwi.com. If you’re continuing elsewhere in India, check Trip.com Trains and aim for morning departures to dodge traffic.

Insider tips: Theosophical Society’s banyan-shaded grounds (Adyar) are open limited hours on most weekdays—peaceful if you have a spare window. The Madras Lighthouse deck is generally open Tue–Sun, daylight hours. Rip currents can be strong at Chennai’s beaches—swim only in designated areas when lifeguards are present.

Two days in Chennai give you a generous tasting menu of Tamil culture—temples, colonial relics, beach light, and unforgettable food. You’ll leave with sandalwood-scented memories and a firm promise to return for a longer stay.