Cradled between Florence and the Apennine foothills, Pistoia is a Tuscan city of stone lacework and quiet grandeur. Its medieval heart glows around Piazza del Duomo, where green-and-white marble facades, a proud bell tower, and a jewel-box Baptistery anchor daily life. Here you witness Tuscany without the crowds—still rich in frescoes, terracotta glazes, and centuries-old craft.

Pistoia’s story threads through Roman foundations, Lombard rule, and a spirited medieval commune. The Cathedral of San Zeno guards the famed silver altar of St. James, while the Ospedale del Ceppo’s glazed frieze narrates charity in color. Under your feet runs Pistoia Sotterranea, a fascinating route through waterways and hospital foundations that rewrites the map of the city.

Expect soulful cooking—pappardelle al cinghiale, chestnut-flour necci filled with ricotta from the mountains, and bistecca charred to perfection—plus aperitivo hum along the produce-filled Piazza della Sala. Practical note: Florence and Pisa airports are a short train ride away; trains are frequent and affordable. Reserve church and tower entries when possible and check seasonal hours for museums and fortress walks.

Pistoia

Just 37 minutes from Florence by regional train, Pistoia trades long lines for living heritage. Marble stripes ripple across the Baptistery of San Giovanni, the Duomo’s bell tower offers sweeping red-roof views, and churches like Sant’Andrea and San Giovanni Fuorcivitas shelter masterpieces by Giovanni Pisano and Della Robbia.

Top highlights include: Piazza del Duomo, the Cathedral of San Zeno (and its silver altar), the Baptistery, Ospedale del Ceppo’s terracotta frieze, Pistoia Sotterranea (underground tour), Marino Marini Museum (modern sculpture inside a medieval complex), and Fortezza Santa Barbara for leafy ramparts and sunset light.

• Where to stay: Browse central apartments and countryside farmhouses via VRBO Pistoia or vetted hotels on Hotels.com Pistoia. Aim for stays around Piazza del Duomo, Via Cavour, or near Piazza della Sala for easy strolling.
• Getting there: Fly into Florence (FLR) or Pisa (PSA), then take a train:
  • Florence SMN → Pistoia: 37–45 min, ~€6–9, frequent Regionale trains. Search schedules on Omio Trains.
  • Pisa Airport → Pisa Centrale (PisaMover 5 min) → Pistoia: ~1h10–1h20 total, ~€12–16. Check Omio Trains.
  • Flying within Europe? Compare fares on Omio Flights. Intercity buses also serve the area via Omio Buses.

Day 1 — Marble stripes, market life, and a Tuscan evening

Morning: Travel to Pistoia. If you arrive early, fuel up near the station with a quick schiacciata (Tuscan flatbread) and espresso, then walk 10 minutes into the historic center. Pause at Piazza della Sala, a produce market by day: crates of citrus, mushrooms in season, and cut flowers set the mood for the city.

Afternoon: Start at Piazza del Duomo. Visit the Cathedral of San Zeno to admire the silver altar of St. James (a Gothic silversmithing marvel). Step across to the Baptistery of San Giovanni, a sublime example of Tuscan Gothic geometry in white Carrara and green Prato marble. If available, book the Campanile (bell tower) climb for wide views of the plain and hills. For lunch, grab a table at I Salaioli (in Piazza della Sala): order crostini with fegatini, pappa al pomodoro, and a glass of Chianti Classico; their deli-counter cheeses and cured meats are great for a light, shareable spread.

Evening: Stroll to the Ospedale del Ceppo facade to study its colorful Della Robbia-style glazed terracotta frieze depicting the Seven Works of Mercy—one of Tuscany’s most lyrical public “storyboards.” Aperitivo calls in Piazza della Sala; a favorite is Baldo Vino for by-the-glass Sangiovese and rustic snacks. For dinner, reserve at La BotteGaia (Tuscan seasonal cooking and a thoughtful wine list). Try pappardelle al cinghiale or peposo (slow-braised black pepper beef) followed by cantucci with Vin Santo. If you fancy a night walk, loop to Fortezza Santa Barbara for quiet ramparts and a gentle breeze.

Day 2 — Underground Pistoia, sculpted pulpits, and optional Florence wine add-ons

Morning: Join the guided Pistoia Sotterranea tour beneath the old hospital—an evocative route along medieval channels that powered mills and served the city’s health system. Back above ground, step into Sant’Andrea to see Giovanni Pisano’s pulpit (c. 1301): a kinetic swirl of marble figures that influenced generations of sculptors. Continue to San Giovanni Fuorcivitas, a church with a mesmerizing striped facade and a luminous Della Robbia glazed tabernacle inside. Coffee and a sweet break? Return to I Salaioli for a buttery cornetto or a slice of seasonal crostata; it’s reliably good from morning through lunch.

Afternoon: Art lovers should visit the Marino Marini Museum in the medieval Complesso di San Domenico, where prancing horses and riders meet modern form. For lunch, try Locanda del Capitano del Popolo near the Duomo—think ribollita, tagliata with rocket, and a stout Tuscan red—served beneath historic arches. If your departure is later, you could hop on a quick train to Florence (37–45 minutes) for a half-day wine tasting in the Tuscan countryside, departing from the city center (details below). Otherwise, pick up edible souvenirs: brigidini (anise wafers), mountain ricotta when in season, or jars of Tuscan beans for hearty home cooking.

Evening: If you’re staying one more night, browse Lo Spazio di via dell’Ospizio, a beloved bookshop-wine bar where staff can suggest a bottle from tiny Tuscan producers; it’s a local hangout with literary soul. For a relaxed final dinner, go classic at Locanda del Capitano del Popolo or return to La BotteGaia to explore their secondi—like bistecca alla Fiorentina (order by weight; best shared).

Optional add-ons from Florence (great if you extend your stay or have a late departure)

These curated small-group experiences depart from central Florence (easy train from Pistoia). They pair beautifully with an extra afternoon or evening in the region.

• Small-Group Wine Tasting Experience in the Tuscan Countryside — Half-day, two wineries, rolling hills, and cellar tastings. Train Pistoia → Firenze SMN (~40 min) and meet your guide downtown.

  

  View details and availability

• Winner 2025 Florence Sunset Food & Wine Tour by Eating Europe — A guided walk through wine windows, traditional soups, and artisan bites as Florence glows at golden hour.

  

  View details and availability

Practical tips

• Timing: Many churches close midday; plan interior visits for mid-morning or late afternoon. Bell tower and underground tours often require fixed slots—check and reserve.
• Local specialties to try: Pappardelle al cinghiale, necci with ricotta (from the Pistoiese mountains), farro soups, crostini neri, and seasonal game. Sweets include brigidini and cantucci with Vin Santo.
• Day trips if you return: The Porrettana railway to Porretta Terme (scenic Apennine ride), or summer art walks at Villa Celle (contemporary land art; seasonal and by appointment).

Getting around is easy on foot, while trains connect you to Florence, Lucca, and Pisa. Search routes and tickets on Omio Trains, and compare flights across Europe on Omio Flights. For bus links between Tuscan towns, check Omio Buses.

In two days, Pistoia rewards you with sculpted pulpits, radiant marble, and meals that taste of hillsides and history. It’s a Tuscan city to savor slowly—packed with art, yet wonderfully everyday. You’ll leave with a calmer heart, a few new favorite wines, and plans to return.