Kashmir has captivated poets, emperors, and trekkers for centuries. Set in the Himalayas, it’s a valley of mirror-still lakes, terraced Mughal gardens, saffron fields, and cedar forests. Srinagar anchors the scene with its famed Dal Lake houseboats and centuries-old shrines; mountain meadows radiate out toward Gulmarg and Pahalgam.

History here layers gracefully: Persian garden design flourished under the Mughals, caravan trade enriched handicrafts, and Sufi shrines shaped the cityscape. Food is a highlight—slow-cooked wazwan (a celebratory multi-course feast), pink noon chai, and fragrant kahwa are not just flavors but traditions passed down kitchens and khansamas.

Practical notes: weather swings from snowy winters to mild summers, with brilliant tulip blooms in late March–April. Mobile coverage can be patchy outside towns; carry cash alongside cards. Security advisories can change—check updates before travel and keep a flexible mindset, especially in winter when passes may close due to snow.

Srinagar

Srinagar is the heart of a classic Kashmir trip, where houseboats bob gently on Dal and Nigeen Lakes and chinar trees blaze red in autumn. The Boulevard Road curves along the water, lined with tea rooms, bakeries, and views that glow pink at sunset.

Top sights include shikara rides on Dal Lake, the Mughal gardens—Nishat, Shalimar, and terraced Pari Mahal—and the atmospheric Old City with its wooden lattice balconies, Jamia Masjid’s 370 deodar pillars, and the riverside Khanqah of Shah‑e‑Hamdan.

Where to stay: Book a night on a traditional houseboat or a hillside hotel with lake views. Browse stays on VRBO Srinagar or compare hotels (from heritage palaces to boutique lodges) on Hotels.com Srinagar. Consider a night on a quality houseboat (e.g., those around Nigeen Lake for quieter waters) and a night in a hillside hotel for sweeping vantage points.

Food to try: Kashmiri wazwan at Ahdoos or Mughal Darbar (seek out rogan josh, gushtaba, rista), trout when in season, bakery-fresh girda bread at dawn, noon chai and flaky kulcha, and saffron-kahwa with crushed almonds. Cafés like Chai Jaai Tea Room and 14th Avenue Café & Grill make great coffee-and-pastry stops.

Getting in: The easiest route is to fly into Srinagar (SXR). Search fares on Trip.com Flights or Kiwi.com. Typical nonstop times: Delhi–Srinagar ~1h30 (often USD 50–140 depending on season), Mumbai–Srinagar ~2h40 nonstop or via Delhi. Overland alternatives include train to Jammu Tawi then road to Srinagar (train ~10–12h from Delhi, road ~6–8h via the new tunnels); browse Indian rail options on Trip.com Trains.

Day 1: Arrive in Srinagar, Houseboat Sunset

Afternoon: Arrive in Srinagar and check into your Dal or Nigeen Lake houseboat. Unpack, sip kahwa on the deck, and meet your boatman. Many houseboats have creaky cedar-panel interiors—part of the charm.

Evening: Take a golden-hour shikara ride past floating gardens and lotus patches. Ask your boatman to drift toward quieter Nigeen canals for birdsong. Dinner at Ahdoos on Residency Road—order rogan josh, tabakh maaz (crisp lamb ribs), and haak saag. For a lighter bite, 14th Avenue Café & Grill serves wood-fired pizzas and Kashmiri kawha with pastries.

Day 2: Mughal Gardens, Old City, and Tea Rooms

Morning: Optional pre-dawn visit to the floating vegetable market on Dal Lake (shikara pickup around 5:00–5:30 am). Return for breakfast on board or try Chai Jaai Tea Room for noon chai, lotus stem chips, and buttery bakarkhani.

Afternoon: Stroll the Mughal gardens: Nishat Bagh (twelve terraces and lake views) and Shalimar Bagh. Late March–April, swap one for the dazzling Indira Gandhi Memorial Tulip Garden (Asia’s largest). Lunch at Stream Restaurant near Boulevard Road—think kebabs, trout, and naan from a tandoor.

Evening: Explore the Old City: Jamia Masjid with its deodar-wood forest of columns, and the riverfront Shah‑e‑Hamdan Khanqah with painted papier-mâché interiors. Browse Polo View Market (pedestrianized) for pashmina, walnut-wood carving, and papier-mâché ornaments. Dinner at Mughal Darbar—if you’re game, ask for a mini-wazwan platter to sample multiple preparations.

Day 3: Viewpoints, Shrine, and Sunset at Pari Mahal

Morning: Drive or hike up to Shankaracharya Temple for sweeping valley views. Coffee and croissants afterward at Books & Bricks Café or a local bakery for fresh girda and chutneys.

Afternoon: Visit the marble-white Hazratbal Shrine on the northern lakefront. Take a quiet shikara on Nigeen. Lunch at Lhasa Restaurant for thenthuk and momos—a Ladakhi-Tibetan change-up from rich wazwan flavors.

Evening: Catch the honeyed light at Pari Mahal, a seven-terrace garden-ruin perched above the lake. Dinner at The Chinar (inside a heritage property, if open to non-residents) or return to the Boulevard for kebabs and kahwa from lakeside stalls.

Day 4: Day Trip to Gulmarg (Meadows or Snow)

Morning: Depart Srinagar around 8:00 am for Gulmarg (~50 km; 1.5–2 hours by car). Hire a local guide/pony if paths are snowy. Ride the Gulmarg Gondola—Phase 1 to Kongdori; if weather permits, Phase 2 to Apharwat (~3,980 m) for epic Himalayan panoramas. Dress in layers; winds can be biting even in April.

Afternoon: Lunch with a view at Hotel Highlands Park lawns (in summer) or warm up with kahwa and kahwa-braised lamb at in-village eateries. In winter, rent skis/snowboards; in summer, walk to Khilanmarg’s flower-studded meadows. Expect a day taxi from Srinagar for INR 2,200–3,000 round-trip, plus parking/guide fees.

Evening: Return to Srinagar by 6–7 pm. Dinner at Krishna Vaishno Dhaba for North Indian vegetarian comfort food—paneer tikka, dal fry, and hot phulkas—or a late lakeside snack and early night.

Pahalgam

Pahalgam is all pine forests, green pastures, and the glacial-blue Lidder River. It’s the launchpad for day trips to Betaab Valley, Aru Valley, and Chandanwari, with easy walks, trout streams, and pony tracks to highland meadows.

Expect slower afternoons, riverside picnics, and crisp starry nights. In spring, orchards bloom; in autumn, slopes glow amber. Local taxi unions manage valley circuits—rates are posted at the stand, making logistics straightforward once you arrive.

Where to stay: For valley views and classic hospitality, Welcomhotel’s Pine N Peak and Hotel Heevan are reliable favorites, alongside cozy cottages. Compare options on VRBO Pahalgam or browse hotels on Hotels.com Pahalgam.

Getting there from Srinagar: It’s ~90 km/2.5–3 hours by road via Pampore (saffron fields) and Anantnag. Private transfer typically INR 2,500–3,500 one-way for a small car. Start in the morning to enjoy stops en route.

Day 5: Srinagar to Pahalgam via Saffron Fields and Ruins

Morning: Depart Srinagar after breakfast. Stop in Pampore to sample saffron-kahwa and learn about harvesting (October is peak, but shops operate year-round). Detour to the 9th-century Avantipora temple ruins—weathered stonework and mountain backdrops make striking photos.

Afternoon: Check into your Pahalgam hotel. Lunch at Troutbeat by Heevan (try grilled trout with herb butter) or Punjabi Rasoi for hearty curries and hot rotis. Walk the Lidder River promenade, cross a wooden bridge, and settle on a riverside rock with a book.

Evening: Take a gentle pony ride up to Baisaran (the “Mini Switzerland” meadow) if weather allows; it’s an easy intro to Pahalgam’s vistas. Dinner at WelcomCafe Lolaab (Pine N Peak)—order the nadru yakhni (lotus stem in yogurt-gravy) and mirchi korma, or go veg at Dana Pani in the main market for North Indian thalis.

Day 6: Betaab, Aru, and Chandanwari Circuit

Morning: Breakfast at Café Log Inn (pancakes, omelettes, good coffee). Hire a local union taxi from Pahalgam stand for the valley circuit (expect INR 2,500–3,500 for Betaab–Aru–Chandanwari; winter roads may limit access). Start with Betaab Valley: emerald meadows, cedar groves, and a ridge walk for views.

Afternoon: Continue to Aru Valley—base for short hikes; take the 1–2 hour trail toward Lidderwat for river views, or simply picnic by the water. Lunch on the go (ask your hotel to pack sandwiches and kahwa in a flask). If open, end at Chandanwari for snow play in spring or panoramic photo stops.

Evening: Return to Pahalgam. Warm up by a hotel bonfire if offered. Dinner at Nathu’s Rasoi for quick veg mains or back to Heevan’s Abshar for kebabs and Kashmiri curries. Save room for phirni or shufta (nuts and dried fruit in spiced syrup).

Day 7: Crafts, Willow Bats, and Departure

Morning: Leisurely breakfast, then browse Pahalgam Market for shawls, pherans (traditional cloaks), and handmade Kashmiri willow cricket bats. If trout fishing interests you, ask about permits for a future visit—seasons and beats are regulated.

Afternoon: Drive to Srinagar Airport (2.5–3 hours; plan buffer for security checks). If timing allows, pause in Pampore for a last kahwa and walnut fudge. Fly out on afternoon departures—check options on Trip.com Flights or Kiwi.com.

Evening: If you have a late flight, a final dinner near the airport approach road is possible, but most travelers prefer an early check-in given layered security.

Practical Tips, Costs, and Seasonal Notes

• Local transport: Private cabs with drivers are common; day rates often INR 2,500–4,500 depending on car size and route. In Pahalgam and Gulmarg, local unions manage sightseeing circuits with posted rates.
• Estimated costs (per couple, mid-range): Srinagar–Gulmarg day by car INR 2,500–3,000; Srinagar–Pahalgam transfer INR 2,800–3,500; Gulmarg Gondola tickets vary by phase, usually INR 800–1,000 (Phase 1) and INR 1,000–1,200 (Phase 2), subject to seasonal updates.
• Weather and packing: Layers, waterproof jacket, sturdy shoes, sun protection. Winters are snowy (Dec–Feb), spring sees blooms (Mar–Apr), summers mild (May–Aug), autumn golden (Sep–Oct).
• Dining highlights to repeat: Wazwan at Ahdoos or Mughal Darbar; Tibetan soups at Lhasa; pizzas and grills at 14th Avenue; trout specials at Troutbeat; veg thalis at Dana Pani; tea rituals at Chai Jaai.
• Shopping: Look for GI-tagged saffron, quality pashmina (check weave and warmth), walnut-wood carvings, and papier-mâché decor. Negotiate politely; fixed-price emporiums exist for reference.

Travel booking resources at a glance: Flights via Trip.com or Kiwi.com; Indian rail planning on Trip.com Trains; Srinagar hotels and houseboats on Hotels.com and VRBO; Pahalgam stays on Hotels.com and VRBO.

In seven days you’ll sample the breadth of Kashmir: Srinagar’s lakes and gardens, Gulmarg’s high meadows, and Pahalgam’s quiet valleys. Come for the scenery, stay for the tea, and leave with the scent of pine and saffron tucked into your memory.