Baghdad, founded in 762 CE by the Abbasid caliph al-Mansur, once anchored the world’s intellectual life through its famed House of Wisdom. Today, the city hums with bookstalls, calligraphers, and tea houses where conversations meander like the Tigris. For couples, Baghdad offers a quiet, unexpected romance: river sunsets, lantern-lit gardens, and poetry in the air.

Expect grand Islamic architecture—Mustansiriya Madrasah, the Abbasid Palace—and atmospheric markets like Al-Mutanabbi Street, the beating heart of Baghdad’s literary scene. The Iraqi National Museum brings Mesopotamia to life, while day trips reach Ctesiphon’s awe-striking Taq Kasra and Babylon’s UNESCO-listed ruins. Food is heritage here: masgouf carp grilled over embers, kebabs in samoon, and kahi with qaymar for breakfast.

Practical notes: check your government’s latest travel advisories and arrange local guides and drivers through your hotel for day trips. Dress modestly, carry small IQD bills, and expect checkpoints; a passport copy helps. Best weather is Oct–Apr; summers are very hot. Many venues are cash-first and photography may be restricted at shrines and security sites.

Baghdad

Baghdad is a city of layers—Abbasid brickwork and Ottoman clocks, 20th-century boulevards and riverside promenades. Couples find quiet corners among bookshops, gardens, and terrace cafés where mint tea and cardamom coffee set the mood.

• Top sights: Al-Mutanabbi Street & Shabandar Café, Mustansiriya Madrasah, Abbasid Palace, Al-Qishla Clock, Iraqi National Museum, Al-Shaheed Monument, Kadhimiya Shrine, Abu Nuwas Corniche, Zawraa Park.
• Signature experiences: Private boat at Tigris sunset, masgouf dinner by the river, calligraphy shopping on Al-Mutanabbi, cable car ride over Zawraa’s gardens, day trips to Ctesiphon (Taq Kasra) and Babylon.
• Dining notes: Seek masgouf carp along Abu Nuwas, kebabs in Karrada and Mansour, and classic tea houses in the old city. For dessert, look for Al-Faqma ice cream and warm kunafa.

Getting there: Fly into Baghdad International Airport (BGW). Typical nonstop times: from Istanbul ~2h20, Doha ~2h20, Dubai ~2h, Amman ~1h30. Sample economy roundtrips often range $180–$500 depending on season. Search and book flights via Trip.com Flights or Kiwi.com. Taxis and hotel transfers to central Baghdad take ~30–45 minutes depending on checkpoints and traffic.

Where to stay (high-comfort, couple-friendly):

• Babylon Rotana Hotel — resort-style pool, riverside setting, spa, and secure compound; excellent for relaxing afternoons and rooftop sunsets.
• Rimal Hotel — boutique-scale comforts with attentive service; good base for Karrada and riverside evenings.
• Coral Baghdad Hotel — central, business-friendly, reliable rooms and breakfast.
• Browse apartments and suites on VRBO Baghdad or compare top hotels on Hotels.com Baghdad.

Day 1: Arrival, Abu Nuwas Promenade, and a Tigris Sunset

Morning: In transit. Book flights to BGW via Trip.com or Kiwi.com. Aim to arrive early afternoon so you can ease into the city’s rhythm.

Afternoon: Hotel check-in and refresh. Stroll hand-in-hand along the Abu Nuwas Corniche, the green riverside promenade named for the 8th‑century poet. Pause for a cardamom coffee from a kiosk and watch boatmen prep for the evening.

Evening: Arrange a private motorboat ride on the Tigris (your hotel concierge can book; ~45–60 minutes, ~$40–80 per couple). Afterward, enjoy a classic masgouf dinner at a longstanding riverside restaurant on Abu Nuwas—choose your live carp, slow-roasted on open embers, with pickles and sumac onions. For dessert, find an Al-Faqma ice cream parlor nearby and share pistachio or mastic scoops.

Day 2: Al-Mutanabbi Street, Mustansiriya, and the Abbasid Era

Morning: Breakfast on kahi with qaymar (flaky pastry with Iraqi clotted cream and date syrup) at your hotel, then head to Al-Mutanabbi Street. Browse calligraphy and out-of-print poetry, and sit at the century-old Shabandar Café for tea in slender istikans—its walls tell Baghdad’s story in photographs.

Afternoon: Visit Mustansiriya Madrasah (founded 1227) and the nearby Abbasid Palace with its beautiful brick muqarnas. Climb the grounds at Al-Qishla to see the Ottoman clock tower and people-watch along the Tigris. For lunch, try charcoal-grilled kebab and kubba at a traditional eatery off Al-Saray Market; pair with fresh samoon bread and ammba (mango pickle).

Evening: Return to your hotel for a swim and spa time. Dine at your hotel’s signature restaurant for a relaxed first-night feast (the Babylon Rotana Hotel has romantic riverside seating). Nightcap on the terrace as the city lights shimmer on the Tigris.

Day 3: Iraqi National Museum, Modern Baghdad, and Zawraa Park

Morning: Explore the Iraqi National Museum—a must for Mesopotamian treasures from Ur, Nineveh, and Babylon. Allow 2–3 hours for highlights like the Warka vase and Assyrian reliefs. Coffee afterward at Ridha Alwan Café in Mansour, a beloved spot for quiet conversation and books.

Afternoon: Head to Zawraa Park for a couple’s cable-car ride above the gardens and lakes. If you enjoy urban photography, the park’s viewpoints are ideal. Lunch on bagilla bil dhen (fava beans with ghee) or quzi (slow-cooked lamb) from a nearby family restaurant.

Evening: Dress up for a refined Baghdad dinner: order shared mezze, grilled meats, and fresh fattoush at a reputable Levantine/Iraqi dining room in Karrada or Jadriya. Finish with kunafa and mint tea. For a low-key close, take a short riverside walk; traffic eases and breezes pick up after dark.

Day 4: Day Trip to Babylon (UNESCO)

Full day: Take a private car with driver to Babylon Archaeological Park near Hillah (approx. 1.5–2 hours each way; ~$120–180 per car arranged via hotel). Wander the Processional Way, the reconstructed Ishtar Gate replica on-site, and the outlines of Nebuchadnezzar’s palace. Walk the hilltop for views toward the Euphrates and the shell of the former 20th-century palace overlooking the ruins.

Have lunch in Hillah at a local grill house or riverside fish spot—ask for masgouf or tashreeb (bread soaked in rich broth). Return to Baghdad before dusk. A light dinner at the hotel or room-service mezze makes a gentle end to a big day.

Day 5: Kadhimiya Shrine, Artisan Lanes, and Spa Night

Morning: Visit the golden-domed Al-Kadhimiya Shrine, one of Iraq’s most sacred sites. Dress modestly; expect security checks and gender-separate entries in some areas. Explore surrounding souqs for prayer beads, silver, and sweets.

Afternoon: Stop by the north-bank neighborhoods for street food—try arayes (grilled meat-stuffed bread) or a plate of qeema with rice. Head back to your hotel for a couples’ spa treatment; many top hotels can arrange massages and a steam/sauna circuit.

Evening: Romantic dinner by the river. Share Iraqi pacha if you’re adventurous, or opt for grilled shrimp and vegetable skewers with lemon and sumac. Cap the night with non-alcoholic cocktails or fresh juices on a quiet terrace.

Day 6: Day Trip to Ctesiphon (Taq Kasra) and Jadriya Evening

Morning: Depart with a licensed guide to Ctesiphon near Salman Pak (45–60 minutes each way; private car ~$60–100). Stand beneath the vast brick arch of Taq Kasra, the largest single-span brick vault in the world—a breathtaking relic of the Sasanian Empire. Your guide can weave stories of Romans and Persians as you photograph the monumental facade.

Afternoon: Return to Baghdad for lunch in Jadriya—order timman bagilla (dill rice with broad beans) with grilled fish or chicken. Rest at the hotel or browse a contemporary boutique for ceramics and embroidered textiles.

Evening: Take a twilight walk across one of Baghdad’s bridges to watch the river glow, then sit down to a refined dinner—mezze, hummus dusted with Aleppo pepper, and skewers fresh off the mangal. Share saffron tea or a Turkish-style coffee to close.

Day 7: Last Taste of Baghdad—Souvenirs, Gardens, and Departure

Morning: Slow breakfast and a final coffee stop back on Al-Mutanabbi Street for any last books, maps, or hand-inked calligraphy. Pick up dates (Zahdi or Khastawi), pistachios, and spice mixes to pack.

Afternoon: If time allows, visit the Al-Shaheed Monument for panoramic photos, then return to the hotel to collect bags. Depart for BGW with buffer time for traffic and checkpoints.

Evening: In flight—begin dreaming up your next Iraqi adventure.

Local logistics and tips:

• Getting around: Arrange private drivers through your hotel for reliability and checkpoint familiarity. Traffic across bridges can add 30–60 minutes; plan generously.
• Costs: City taxis/ride-hailing within central Baghdad ~$4–10 per ride; private car day trips ~$60–180 depending on distance and vehicle.
• Etiquette: Ask before photographing people or religious spaces; carry a scarf for shrine visits. Fridays see midday closures around prayers; markets are livelier after 4 pm.

Book your flights to Baghdad with Trip.com Flights or Kiwi.com, and compare stays on Hotels.com Baghdad or VRBO Baghdad. For a resort-like base, see the Babylon Rotana Hotel; boutique travelers might prefer the Rimal Hotel or Coral Baghdad Hotel.

Seven days in Baghdad invite you to slow down and savor: books and tea by day, warm river breezes by night, and the world’s oldest stories under your feet. With thoughtful planning and high-comfort stays, this romantic itinerary balances history, cuisine, and calm—leaving room for serendipity along the Tigris.