A Nature-Rich 7-Day Dharamshala and Bir Billing Itinerary: Monasteries, Mountain Trails, and Paragliding in Himachal
Perched beneath the snow-striped Dhauladhar range, Dharamshala is the spiritual and cultural heart of the Tibetan diaspora. Since the 1960s it has hosted His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama and the Tibetan Government-in-Exile, a history you’ll feel in prayer flags, meditation halls, and monastic debates echoing through cedar forests. Add in mountain trails and a celebrated café scene, and you have a Himalayan retreat with soul.
The Kangra Valley balances serenity with adventure. One day you’ll trace an ancient fort’s ramparts and wander tea gardens; the next you’ll float over pine ridges on a paraglider from Billing, landing in the meadows of Bir. It’s all backdropped by dramatic peaks that glow rose-gold at sunset—reason enough to linger.
Practical notes: At 1,450–2,100 m, days are mild and nights cool; March–June and Oct–Nov are ideal. Monsoon (July–Sept) brings heavy rain and landslide risk. Dress modestly in temples, carry cash for smaller cafés, and book paragliding with licensed operators. Himachali “dham,” Tibetan momos and thenthuk, and fresh mountain trout headline the local menu.
Dharamshala (McLeod Ganj)
Dharamshala splits into the lower town and hilltop McLeod Ganj, where Tibetan prayer wheels line alleys humming with cafés and bookstores. The vibe mixes Buddhist tranquility with backpacker buzz—temples in the morning, cheesecake and conversation by evening.
- Top sights: Tsuglagkhang (Dalai Lama Temple), Tibet Museum, St. John in the Wilderness, HPCA Cricket Stadium, Norbulingka Institute, Kangra Fort, Masroor Rock Cut Temple.
- Outdoor highlights: Triund day hike, Naddi sunset point, Dal Lake forest walk, Bhagsu Waterfall.
- What to eat: Tibetan thukpa and momos, Himachali dham, café bakes, and wood-fired pizza with mountain views.
Stay: Search a wide range of stays in Dharamshala on Hotels.com or VRBO. Consider Hyatt Regency Dharamshala Resort (forest-set luxury), Fortune Park Moksha (Strawberry Hills, great views), or Pink House (budget-boutique near the market).
Getting there: Fly into Kangra (DHM) from Delhi (about 1.5 hours); search flights on Trip.com or Kiwi.com. From Pathankot, the scenic narrow-gauge train to Kangra/Palampur is bookable via Trip.com Trains (long but beautiful). Overnight Volvo buses from Delhi take ~11–13 hours.
Day 1: Arrival and First Taste of McLeod Ganj
Morning: Travel day. Aim for an early flight or overnight bus so you reach by afternoon. If flying to DHM, it’s a 45–60 minute drive to McLeod Ganj.
Afternoon: Check in, then stretch your legs on the kora (circumambulation path) around the Dalai Lama Temple. Spin prayer wheels with locals and soak in the rhythmic mantras. Coffee and a warm apple pie at Woeser Bakery—a tiny, beloved spot tucked off Jogiwara Road.
Evening: Dinner at Tibet Kitchen for benchmark momos, shapta (stir-fried beef or mushroom), and thenthuk (hand-pulled noodle soup). If you prefer a quiet read with sunset views, Illiterati Books & Coffee serves pastas, salads, and excellent cakes with a wall of well-thumbed books.
Day 2: Dalai Lama Temple, Museums, and Naddi Sunset
Morning: Visit Tsuglagkhang (Dalai Lama Temple Complex) and the Tibet Museum for moving exhibits on exile history (small fee; hours vary). Respect the calm—no hats in prayer halls. Breakfast at Namgyal Café (inside the library complex) for pancakes, momos, and mountain silence.
Afternoon: Walk to St. John in the Wilderness, a neo-Gothic 1850s church shaded by deodars. Continue to Dal Lake and then Naddi village. Pause for ginger-lemon honey tea at a viewpoint shack while the Dhauladhars sharpen into focus.
Evening: Stay for the glow at Naddi Sunset Point. Return for dinner at Nick’s Italian Kitchen—order the spinach cannelloni and their famed lemon cheesecake. Nightcap at McLlo Restaurant, a decades-old local institution for hot butter rum in winter and lively chatter year-round.
Day 3: Triund Day Hike and Bhagsu Waterfall
Morning: Fuel up at Trek & Dine in Dharamkot (hearty Israeli platters, shakshuka, fresh juices). Start the Triund hike from Gallu Devi Temple by 7:30–8:00 a.m. It’s ~9 km roundtrip (3–4 hours up depending on fitness), with pine forests giving way to a ridge-top panorama.
Afternoon: Lunch at a chai dhaba on Triund (simple noodles, rajma-chawal, tea). Descend the same way; carry layers as weather changes fast. Note: overnight camping on the Triund meadow is restricted—treat this as a day hike unless booked with a licensed operator to authorized sites below the ridge.
Evening: Detour to Bhagsu Waterfall and Shiva Café for a post-hike breather. Dinner back in McLeod Ganj at Lobsang’s Four Season Café (Tibetan classics and reliable pastas) or Morgan’s Place in Dharamkot for wood-fired pizza with twinkling town lights.
Day 4: Norbulingka Arts, Tea Gardens, and HPCA Stadium
Morning: Head to the Norbulingka Institute near Sidhpur (30–40 minutes). Join a guided tour of ateliers preserving thangka painting, wood carving, and appliqué; short workshops are often available (fees vary; book ahead in peak months). Coffee and Tibetan snacks at the on-site café between garden strolls and the Losel Doll Museum.
Afternoon: Walk through nearby tea gardens (Mann Estate area) for photos among glossy leaves. Then stop at the HPCA Cricket Stadium—a surreal bowl of bright seating against snow peaks (nominal entry fee on non-match days). Lunch at The Other Space in Lower Dharamshala for grain bowls, momos, and good espresso.
Evening: Free time to browse handicrafts—look for ethically sourced thangkas and handwoven shawls. Dinner at Dolma Restaurant for steamed chicken or spinach momos and thukpa; it’s unfussy, fast, and beloved by locals.
Bir (Billing)
Bir is a quiet, pastoral base with Tibetan monasteries, working fields, and a just-right café culture. Above it, Billing (takeoff point) is India’s paragliding capital—on clear days, canopies pepper the sky like bright confetti.
- Top sights: Paragliding from Billing to Bir, Chokling Monastery, Deer Park Institute, Gunehar art hamlet, Bangoru Waterfall, Baijnath Temple (nearby).
- Vibe: Slow mornings, scooter rides between cafés, sunset picnics at the landing site, bonfires and stargazing.
- Food to try: Thukpa and tingmo, wood-fired pizzas, millet bowls, and excellent coffee from roaster-led cafés.
Stay: Browse stays in Bir on Hotels.com or VRBO. Consider Zostel Bir (social hostel near landing site), The Hosteller Bir (budget-friendly, clean), or a boutique homestay amid fields for quiet starscapes.
Day 5: Dharamshala to Bir via Kangra Fort and Palampur Tea
Morning: Check out and drive to Kangra Fort (about 1 hour from Dharamshala). Explore gateways, temples, and ramparts with an audio guide (entry approx. ₹50–₹150; fees subject to change). The views knit together the Beas river valley and distant peaks.
Afternoon: Continue to Palampur for lunch at Neugal Café (HPTDC; Himachali thali, grilled trout) and a stroll by Neugal Khad. If time allows, book a tasting at Wah Tea Estate to learn how Kangra’s delicate teas are plucked and processed. Then drive to Bir (about 2.5–3 hours total from Dharamshala; with stops, expect 5–6 hours).
Evening: Check in and walk to the Bir Landing Site for golden-hour gliders. Dinner at Northern Café (up a short trail from the landing meadow) for tandoori platters, pizza, and the valley’s best sunset terrace.
Getting between cities: Private taxi ₹2,500–₹3,500; shared cabs are cheaper. Public buses via Palampur take 4–5 hours total. If you prefer rail, the narrow-gauge Kangra Valley line runs Pathankot–Baijnath; search options on Trip.com Trains and connect by taxi to Bir.
Day 6: Paragliding from Billing, Monasteries, and Gunehar
Morning: Paragliding day. After a light breakfast at Silver Linings Café (great coffee, bagels), drive 45–60 minutes up to Billing (2,400 m). Tandem flights typically last 15–30 minutes depending on winds; licensed operators provide gear and pilots. Expect approx. ₹3,000–₹4,500 for a standard flight; GoPro footage is often an add-on (₹500–₹800). Optimal wind windows are usually morning and late afternoon.
Afternoon: Post-landing, visit Chokling Monastery (vivid murals, peaceful prayer hall) and Deer Park Institute, which hosts talks and short courses on philosophy and meditation. Lunch at The 4Tables Café & Gallery in Gunehar for seasonal plates, art, and a quiet village vibe.
Evening: Short hike to Bangoru Waterfall if daylight allows. Dinner at June 16 Café (pizzas, bowls, live music nights) or Glider’s Pizzeria near the landing site. End with stargazing—Bir’s rural sky often puts on a show.
Day 7: Toy Train Taster, Last Sips, and Departure
Morning: Hop on a short segment of the Kangra Valley “toy train” from Ahju/Baijnath Paprola for vintage views and photo ops (it’s slow, but scenic). Alternatively, rent a cycle for the flat lanes around the landing meadow, or join a gentle yoga class advertised at local cafés.
Afternoon: Brunch at Café Cloud Door or Musafir Café (excellent coffee, millet bowls, and sandwiches). Transfer to Kangra Airport (2–2.5 hours) for an afternoon flight—search options on Trip.com or Kiwi.com. If heading by train, connect via Pathankot; browse schedules on Trip.com Trains. Overnight Volvo buses to Delhi depart early evening from Bir/nearby towns.
Evening: If you have extra time, watch one last sunset at the landing site with a cup of butter tea. Pick up Himalayan tea and prayer flags as souvenirs—lightweight, meaningful, and easy to pack.
Where to Eat and Drink (Quick Picks)
- Breakfast/coffee: Woeser Bakery (McLeod; cakes, pour-overs), Namgyal Café (quiet temple-side mornings), Trek & Dine (big plates), Silver Linings Café (Bir roastery vibes).
- Lunch: Tibet Kitchen (Tibetan staples), Nick’s Italian Kitchen (pastas, cheesecake), The Other Space (bowls, bakes), The 4Tables (farm-to-table plates in Gunehar).
- Dinner: Illiterati Books & Coffee (European fare with views), Morgan’s Place (wood-fired pizza), Dolma Restaurant (fast, tasty momos), Northern Café (Bir sunsets), June 16 Café (casual, occasional live sets).
Accommodation Links
- Dharamshala stays: Search Dharamshala on Hotels.com | Search Dharamshala on VRBO
- Bir stays: Search Bir on Hotels.com | Search Bir on VRBO
Travel Links
- Flights (India/International): Trip.com Flights, Kiwi.com Flights
- Trains in India: Trip.com Trains
In seven days you’ll thread together Dharamshala’s Tibetan heart, Kangra’s forts and tea, and Bir Billing’s sky-high thrills. The rhythm—temple bells at dawn, trail dust by noon, café chatter at dusk—makes the valley easy to love and hard to leave.
Return any season and the mountains will show a new face: rhododendron spring, monsoon greens, autumn thermals, winter clarity. The Kangra Valley rewards repeat travelers with deeper calm each time.

