Chennai, capital of Tamil Nadu and gateway to South India, marries ancient Dravidian traditions with a dynamic modern spirit. Once called Madras, the city grew around fishing hamlets and temple tanks, later becoming a British trading hub and a cradle of Carnatic music and Bharatanatyam. Today, its rhythm is a blend of gopurams, cinema billboards, silk sarees, and the salty breeze off the Bay of Bengal.

History here spans millennia: Mylapore’s Kapaleeshwarar Temple—rebuilt in the 17th century—crowns streets lined with kolam chalk art, while the 16th-century San Thome Basilica marks the resting place of St. Thomas the Apostle. Colonial-era Fort St. George charts the East India Company’s rise; the Egmore Government Museum shelters exquisite Chola bronzes that glow like captured fire.

Practical notes: Chennai is warm year-round; hydrate, wear light clothes, and carry a shawl for temples (modest attire required, shoes off in sanctums). The best weather is November–February; the northeast monsoon can bring downpours Oct–Dec. Tiffin culture rules—idli, dosa, vadai, sambar, and strong filter coffee—so come hungry and curious.

Chennai

Chennai rewards the unhurried: conversations over steel tumblers of kaapi, twilight walks along Marina Beach, and detours into markets fragrant with jasmine and curry leaves. Neighborhoods each carry a signature—Mylapore’s sacred streets, Triplicane’s old-world bustle, Besant Nagar’s seaside calm, and T. Nagar’s sari-and-gold shopping spree.

• Top sights: Kapaleeshwarar Temple (carved pillars and a riotously colorful gopuram), San Thome Basilica (neo-Gothic nave and saint’s tomb), Marina Beach (India’s longest urban beach), Fort St. George Museum, Government Museum (Egmore) with stellar Bronze Gallery, Parthasarathy Temple (Triplicane).
• Food and drink: Classic tiffin at Rayar’s Mess, Murugan Idli Shop, and Ratna Cafe; Chettinad spice-laden gravies at Ponnusamy; seafood at The Marina; refined regional tasting menus at Dakshin. Dessert? Jigarthanda-style coolers, rose milk, and melt-in-mouth Mysurpa from Sri Krishna Sweets.
• Local gems: Theosophical Society’s leafy grounds in Adyar, the city-view lighthouse at Marina, and street-snack crawls in Sowcarpet (chaat, panipuri, kulfi). For arts, look out for concerts during the December Music Season.

Where to stay: Base yourself in Mylapore/Alwarpet (temples and cafes), Nungambakkam/T. Nagar (shopping, dining), or Besant Nagar (beach vibes). Browse stays on VRBO or compare hotels on Hotels.com.

Getting to Chennai (MAA): Find competitive flights on Kiwi.com or compare routes on Trip.com Flights. Typical nonstop times: from Bengaluru ~1 hr ($25–60), Mumbai ~1 hr 45 min ($40–100), Delhi ~2 hr 50 min ($50–120). For rail travelers in India, check Trip.com Trains; Bengaluru–Chennai runs take ~5–6 hrs (~$10–20), Madurai–Chennai ~7–8 hrs.

Day 1: Mylapore, San Thome, and a Marina Beach Sunset

Morning: Travel into Chennai; if you land early, grab a restorative filter coffee and hot ghee pongal at Murugan Idli Shop (Mylapore)—their soft idlis with four chutneys are a local rite of passage. Another beloved option is Rayar’s Mess, a tiny, old-school joint where idli-vadai arrives on banana leaves; expect queues and communal tables, worth it for the sambar alone.

Afternoon: Check in near Mylapore or Alwarpet via VRBO or Hotels.com, then set out for Kapaleeshwarar Temple. Admire the towering gopuram studded with deities, watch a puja if in session, and circle the sacred tank and Mada Streets (peek into puja shops and jasmine garland stalls). Walk 15 minutes to San Thome Basilica; the bright nave and museum hint at Chennai’s layered Christian heritage.

Evening: Head to Marina Beach for golden-hour skies and kites—enter near the Lighthouse if you want city views (the observation deck is a fun add-on when open). Snack like a local: sundal (spiced chickpeas), molaga bajji (chili fritters), and fresh-cut mango with chili-salt. For dinner, choose: Ponnusamy Hotel (Nungambakkam) for Chettinad favorites like pepper chicken, mutton sukka, and kuzhambu; or The Marina on Cathedral Road for grilled seer fish, prawn thokku, and crab masala with flaky parottas.

Nightcap: Sip innovative cocktails at The Velveteen Rabbit (RA Puram)—try a spice-forward gin drink—or catch live music at Bay 146 (Savera Hotel), a dependable local hangout. Turn in early; tomorrow starts with temples and museums.

Day 2: Triplicane, Fort St. George, Egmore Museum, and T. Nagar Eats

Morning: Begin in old-world Triplicane with breakfast at Ratna Cafe, famed since 1948 for idli drenched in lava-hot sambar (they’ll ladle refills at the table). Walk to Parthasarathy Temple, a Vaishnavite shrine with pillared halls and intricate stucco—note the steady flow of devotees and the music of temple bells. Then ride to Fort St. George to explore the museum’s portraits, coins, and colonial relics; if the museum is closed (often Fridays), swap in a photogenic wander through George Town/Parry’s Corner—spice stalls, stationery lanes, and wholesale bazaars that predate modern malls.

Afternoon: Culture fix at the Government Museum (Egmore), especially the Bronze Gallery’s sublime Chola Nataraja sculptures and serene Buddha heads—arguably India’s finest bronzes. Lunch nearby options: Mathsya (Egmore/Nungambakkam) for crisp ghee roast dosas and thali; or landmark Buhari Hotel (Mount Road) for biryani and the city’s storied Chicken 65 (born here in the 1960s). If you like textiles, finish with a swift shopping run in T. Nagar—Nalli Silks, Pothys, and RMKV for Kanchipuram sarees; Sri Krishna Sweets for signature Mysurpa to take home.

Evening: Departure day: if you have a late flight, indulge in a refined South Indian dinner at Dakshin (Crowne Plaza Adyar Park)—banana leaf service, live tabla, and regional specialties like Meen Pollichathu and fluffy appams. Alternatively, sample kebabs and curries at Kebabs & Kurries (ITC Grand Chola) before heading to the airport. Allow 45–75 minutes to reach MAA by taxi; the Metro is handy from Central if traffic looks gnarly.

Cafes and Coffee Stops to Bookmark

• Wild Garden Cafe – Amethyst (Royapettah): Garden seating, airy verandahs, excellent South Indian single-estate coffee, and a solid pastry lineup. Great mid-morning reset between San Thome and Egmore.
• Chamiers Cafe (RA Puram): Vintage decor, sandwiches, quiches, and cold-brew; pairs well with a stroll along leafy Boat Club Road.
• Madras Coffee House (multiple): No-frills, strong filter coffee served piping hot in tumbler-davara sets.

Logistics Tips

• Getting around: Use ride-hailing (Uber/Ola) or autorickshaws; the Metro links the airport to central areas, then switch to cabs for Mylapore/Besant Nagar.
• Temple etiquette: Shoulders/knees covered, remove footwear, photography rules vary—ask first. Carry small cash for offerings.
• Timing: Many temples have midday breaks; museums typically open mid-morning to late afternoon (Fort Museum often closed Fridays). Start early to beat heat and traffic.

Book Your Essentials

• Chennai stays on VRBO | Hotels in Chennai on Hotels.com
• Flights to Chennai on Kiwi.com | Compare flights on Trip.com | India train options on Trip.com

In two days, Chennai unfolds as a city of sanctums and sea breeze, of bronze deities and cricket on the sands. Come for the temples and museums; stay for the tiffin breakfasts, filter coffee, and conversations that linger past sunset. You’ll leave plotting a longer return to chase music season nights and coastal day trips down the Coromandel.