Iceland, shaped by fire and ice, is a young land still writing its story through eruptions, glaciers, and roaring waterfalls. Vikings settled here in the 9th century; a modern, creative nation grew from those hardy roots, blending Nordic design, geothermal ingenuity, and a fierce love of nature. December is magical: short golden hours, snow-dusted lava fields, and real chances to see the aurora borealis dancing above the North Atlantic.

In one week, you’ll trace the Reykjanes Peninsula’s steaming vents, the South Coast’s waterfalls and black-sand beaches, and Reykjavík’s culture and cuisine. With a rental car, you set the pace—pull over for a photo of a wind-bent church, a glinting glacier, or a herd of Icelandic horses. Key highlights include the Golden Circle, Blue Lagoon or Sky Lagoon, an optional ice cave super-jeep, and intimate food experiences in the capital.

Practical notes: December daylight is brief (about 4–5 hours), roads can be icy, and weather changes quickly—build in buffer time and wear traction-ready footwear. Check daily conditions and volcano advisories, especially on the Reykjanes Peninsula. Book lagoons and tours in advance; bring swimwear, a reusable water bottle (tap water is pristine), and layers to handle windchill.

Reyktanesskagi / Reykjanes Peninsula (Keflavík & Garður)

Your first base puts you close to KEF airport, the photogenic Garður lighthouses, oceanfront cliffs, and geothermal wonders like Gunnuhver. This is a perfect soft landing: shake off jet lag with coastal walks, lighthouse sunsets, and an early Blue Lagoon dip before heading east.

Top sights: Garðskagaviti (Old & New Lighthouses), Bridge Between Continents, Reykjanesviti lighthouse and sea cliffs, Gunnuhver hot springs, and (if open) the Blue Lagoon. Fun fact: Reykjanes is a UNESCO Global Geopark—expect lava fields, fissures, and steaming earth at every turn.

• Stay (booked): Hlid Fisherman’s Village in Garður.
• Compare nearby stays: VRBO Keflavik | Hotels.com Keflavik
• Arrival flights: Most travelers fly into KEF. Compare fares on Omio (Europe) or Trip.com / Kiwi.com. Typical nonstop times: 3–4 hours from mainland Europe, 5–6 from US East Coast; winter roundtrips often range $350–$900 depending on origin.

Day 1 — Tue, Dec 16: Arrival, Lighthouses, and First Aurora

Afternoon: Land at KEF, pick up your rental car, and drive 15–20 minutes to Hlid Fisherman’s Village in Garður. Shake out jet lag with a walk around the Old & New Garður lighthouses—great for crashing surf and seabirds. Warm up with an early dinner at Kaffi Duus in Keflavík (pan-fried Arctic char, fish platters, harbor views) or The Library Bistro/Bar (local lamb, fish & chips).

Evening: If skies are clear, try a DIY Northern Lights watch by the lighthouses (dark skies and ocean horizons help). Prefer a guided hunt? Consider #1 Northern Lights Tour In Iceland from Reykjavik with PRO photos — hotel pickup options in the capital; you can also self-drive to a meeting point if needed. Expect flexible timing and hot chocolate while guides position you for aurora conditions.

Dinner (if later): Vitinn in Sandgerði (lobster and langoustine specialties) or Olsen Olsen for fast-casual burgers if you want something quick before an aurora chase.

Day 2 — Wed, Dec 17: Reykjanes Geopark and Blue Lagoon

Morning: Coffee and kleina at Bakarameistarinn (Keflavík). Drive the Reykjanes loop: the Bridge Between Continents, Gunnuhver’s bubbling mud and steam, and Reykjanesviti lighthouse cliffs. Keep an eye out for gale-force winds—open car doors carefully.

Afternoon: Soak at the Blue Lagoon (25–30 minutes from Garður) if open—milky silica water, steam drifting over lava. Bookable via Blue Lagoon Admission Including Return Transfers from Reykjavik (you can still self-drive). Expect $80–$120/pp, towel included; add-on masks and drinks available.

Evening: Dinner back near Keflavík: try Fernando’s for family-friendly Italian or return to Kaffi Duus for hearty seafood soups. If conditions cooperate, another quick aurora look near Garður’s lighthouses—minimal light pollution and easy access. Note: Reykjanes volcanic activity can cause temporary closures; check advisories daily.

Hvolsvöllur & The South Coast

Base two nights in Hvolsvöllur for quick access to Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, glacier tongues, and the Vik area’s Reynisfjara black-sand beach and sea stacks. This is the South Coast at its most cinematic: waterfalls rimed with ice, basalt columns, and waves thundering in the dark.

Top sights: Seljalandsfoss and Gljúfrabúi, Skógafoss and the steps to the top ridge, Sólheimajökull glacier viewpoint, Reynisfjara and Dyrhólaey (seasonal closures may apply), and winter ice caves (tour-only). Always keep a wide margin from Reynisfjara’s sneaker waves.

• Stay (booked): Midgard Base Camp (Hvolsvöllur) with sauna/hot tub, onsite restaurant, and active local guiding scene.
• Compare stays: VRBO Hvolsvöllur | Hotels.com Hvolsvöllur
• Drive from Garður/Keflavík: ~2–2.5 hours (Route 41 to Route 1). Depart after breakfast to maximize daylight. Fuel for this stretch ~US$25–35 depending on vehicle; no tolls.
• Public transport note: There are no trains in Iceland; limited buses exist but self-drive is most practical in winter. If needed, browse coach options on Omio (buses).

Day 3 — Thu, Dec 18: Move Day to Hvolsvöllur, Waterfalls at Golden Hour

Morning: Check out and drive east. Coffee stop in Selfoss (try Mathús Garðyrkjustöðvarinnar for pastries if open) and a quick detour to Urriðafoss—broad and powerful even in winter.

Afternoon: Check into Midgard Base Camp, then head 25 minutes to Seljalandsfoss and the nearby hidden canyon fall Gljúfrabúi. The path behind Seljalandsfoss is often closed/icy in winter—microspikes help; obey signage.

Evening: Dinner at Midgard Restaurant (seasonal bowls, lamb, and local beer). Recover in the sauna/hot tub. If the aurora forecast is promising, drive 5–10 minutes out of town for dark-sky viewing over the fields.

Day 4 — Fri, Dec 19: Vik, Reynisfjara, and an Ice Cave Adventure

Morning: Drive ~1h15m to Vik. Coffee at Skool Beans (a quirky bus-turned-café; check winter hours) or grab breakfast in Hvolsvöllur first. Explore Reynisfjara’s black sand and basalt columns—stay far up the beach, eyes on the sea.

Afternoon: Join an ice cave super-jeep tour from Vik: Ice Cave by Katla Volcano Super Jeep Tour from Vik. Guides supply helmets/crampons and handle the rugged approach—expect shimmering blue ice, ash layers, and surreal light.

Evening: Early dinner in Vik: The Soup Company (lobster and signature “volcano” soup in bread bowls) or Smiðjan Brugghús (craft burgers and local brews). Drive back to Hvolsvöllur and warm up at Midgard. If clouds break, look north for aurora curtains.

Alternative (from Reykjavík pickup if you weren’t self-driving): Iceland South Coast Full Day Small-Group Tour from Reykjavik.

Reykjavík

Colorful rooftops, world-class coffee, and a culinary scene that plays with tradition—Reykjavík is cozy and creative in winter. Between museums and hot pools, you’ll day-trip the Golden Circle and luxuriate in Sky Lagoon’s oceanside steam.

Top sights: Hallgrímskirkja tower views, Harpa Concert Hall, Sun Voyager sculpture, Laugavegur shopping, Perlan’s Wonders of Iceland exhibition, and a thriving food hall culture at Hlemmur Mathöll and Grandi Mathöll.

• Stay (booked): Hostel B47 (Dec 20–24; your trip departs on the 23rd).
• Compare stays: VRBO Reykjavík | Hotels.com Reykjavík
• Drive from Hvolsvöllur: ~1h30m to central Reykjavík. KEF airport is ~45–50 minutes from downtown.

Day 5 — Sat, Dec 20: To Reykjavík, City Icons, and Lava After Dark

Morning: Check out and stop at Skógafoss (if you didn’t yesterday). The lower viewpoint is spectacular in winter; the staircase can be icy—use caution.

Afternoon: Arrive Reykjavík, check in at Hostel B47. Stroll to Hallgrímskirkja (take the elevator for panorama), wander Rainbow Street down to Lake Tjörnin, and admire Harpa’s honeycomb glass by the harbor.

Evening: Experience real molten rock—indoors—at the award-winning Lava Show Reykjavik (a narrated pour of 1100°C lava; educational and mesmerizing). Dinner nearby: Messinn (pan-fried Arctic char “for two” skillet), Fish Market (Fiskmarkaðurinn) for inventive seafood, or Grillmarkaðurinn for Icelandic meats and local produce grilled over birch charcoal.

Day 6 — Sun, Dec 21: Golden Circle + Blue Lagoon (Full-Day)

Make the most of winter daylight with a curated loop that includes Thingvellir’s tectonic drama, Geysir’s eruptions, and Gullfoss’s icy power—then finish in hot silica water.

Golden Circle, Blue Lagoon with Ticket and Kerid Volcanic Crater covers the highlights efficiently in winter traffic and includes admission, so you don’t juggle multiple bookings. If you prefer to self-drive, budget 6–8 hours with short daylight and icy roads; Kerið Crater is a quick, worthwhile stop.

Post-tour dinner ideas back in town: Apótek Kitchen & Bar (Icelandic bistro classics), Sumac (North African–Icelandic flavors; try the grilled cauliflower and lamb), or Skál! in Hlemmur Mathöll (seasonal small plates; MICHELIN Bib Gourmand).

Day 7 — Mon, Dec 22: Coffee, Food Walk, Museums, and Sky Lagoon

Morning: Grab a cardamom bun at Sandholt or a cinnamon roll at Brauð & Co, plus a flat white from Reykjavík Roasters. Browse Laugavegur’s boutiques for wool sweaters (lopapeysa) and locally made skincare, then meet up for lunch.

Afternoon: Join the acclaimed Reykjavik Food Walk - Local Foodie Adventure in Iceland for a guided taste of Icelandic staples—from fish of the day to rye bread ice cream—while hearing city lore and history. After, consider the National Museum of Iceland or Perlan’s Wonders of Iceland for glaciers, volcanoes, and an indoor ice cave.

Evening: Unwind at the oceanfront Sky Lagoon Entrance Ticket Including 7-Step Ritual—the turf house cold-plunge and oceanside infinity edge feel quintessentially Icelandic (allow ~2 hours; $65–$100/pp depending on package). Late supper: Mat Bar (small plates; Nordic-Med twist) or Dill (tasting menu; book ahead) if you want a one-night splurge.

Day 8 — Tue, Dec 23: Harbor Morning and Departure

Morning: Early riser? Walk the old harbor as trawlers head out and the Sun Voyager sculpture catches first light. If seas are calm and you have time, winter whale-watching departures run from the harbor (dress very warmly; success rates vary with season and weather).

Afternoon: Lunch at Hlemmur Mathöll—try SKÁL! for smoked Arctic char, Kröst for grilled meats, or La Poblana for tacos—then drive ~45–50 minutes to KEF for your flight. Return the car fueled and allow extra time for winter roads and check-in queues.

Dinner (plane snacks): Pick up pastries from Sandholt or a tub of Icelandic skyr for the road.

Reykjavík Tours Shortlist (Bookable Picks)

• Golden Circle + Blue Lagoon + Kerið (small group) — efficient winter routing.
• Reykjavík Food Walk — culture through cuisine.
• Sky Lagoon 7-Step Ritual — oceanside geothermal bliss.
• Lava Show Reykjavík — hot lava, cool science.

Food & Coffee Cheat Sheet

• Keflavík/Garður: Kaffi Duus (harbor seafood), Vitinn (langoustine), Library Bistro/Bar (modern Icelandic), Olsen Olsen (quick burgers).
• South Coast: Midgard Restaurant (comforting seasonal dishes), The Soup Company (Vik), Smiðjan Brugghús (burgers & beer), Black Beach Restaurant (near Reynisfjara; check hours), Gamla Fjósið near Skógar (farm-to-table lamb).
• Reykjavík Coffee/Bakeries: Sandholt, Brauð & Co, Reykjavík Roasters, Mokka Kaffi.
• Reykjavík Lunch/Dinner: Messinn, Fish Market, Grillmarkaðurinn, Apótek, Sumac, Mat Bar, SKÁL! at Hlemmur Mathöll.

Driving & Winter Tips

• Daylight is ~4–5 hours; schedule driving for twilight and sightseeing for the brightest window.
• Expect ice, snow, and strong winds; use studded tires, keep headlights on, and pack microspikes. Fuel when you can.
• Reynisfjara beach has dangerous sneaker waves—stay well back from the shoreline year-round.
• Reykjanes volcanic activity can affect access; follow local advisories and any road/lava field closures.

Getting Around & Booking

• Flights: Compare on Omio (Europe) and globally on Trip.com or Kiwi.com.
• Intercity alternatives: Limited winter buses exist; check routes on Omio (buses). Self-drive remains the most flexible.
• Hotels & Apartments: Browse options on VRBO Reykjavík and Hotels.com Reykjavík.

Summary: This December road trip blends the best of Iceland’s winter—auroras by lonely lighthouses, ice caves beneath volcanoes, Golden Circle icons, and restorative lagoon soaks—balanced with Reykjavík’s coffee, culture, and cuisine. With smart pacing and short driving hops, you’ll see a lot without rushing, leaving room for serendipity whenever the sky turns green.