8 Days in the Turkish Black Sea: Trabzon, Uzungöl, and Rize–Ayder Itinerary
The Turkish Black Sea—الشمال التركي—is where emerald mountains dive into slate-blue waters, where tea terraces stripe the hills, and where fog curls over alpine plateaus. For centuries, these coasts were crossroads of Pontic Greeks, Laz, Hemşin, and Ottomans. Today, it is Turkey’s green heart, perfect for travelers who love nature, cool air, and big flavors.
This 8-day itinerary focuses on two hubs: Trabzon (for Uzungöl, Sumela, and city heritage) and Rize–Ayder (for tea gardens, the Fırtına Valley, Zilkale, waterfalls, and highland villages like Pokut). Expect short drives, soft rain, and hot tea everywhere. Summer brings festivals and flowers; spring and fall offer misty drama; winter dresses the plateaus in white.
Practical notes: weather is changeable—pack a light rain shell and layers. Roads are good but winding in the valleys; a small car is easiest. Card payments are common in cities; carry some TRY cash for villages. Local must-eats include Akçaabat köfte, corn bread, butter-rich mıhlama/kuymak, fresh trout, and Laz böreği.
Trabzon
Trabzon once anchored the medieval Empire of Trebizond; its harbor still feels like a gateway between Anatolia and the Caucasus. Highlights cluster around Ortahisar’s old lanes, the clifftop Sumela Monastery, and the tea-scented viewpoints of Boztepe.
- Top sights: Sumela Monastery in Altındere National Park; Aya Sofya (Hagia Sophia of Trabzon); Atatürk Köşkü mansion; Boztepe viewpoint; Sera Lake; Uzungöl day trip.
- Eat & drink: Akçaabat köfte at Niyazi Usta or Cemilusta; seafood at Fevzi Hoca Balık; pide at Kuruoğlu Pide; rice pudding (Hamsiköy sütlaç) at local pastaneler.
- Fun fact: Tea became king here only in the 20th century—before that, hazelnuts and maritime trade led the economy.
Where to stay (Trabzon): For city access, base near Meydan/Ortahisar. Good-value hotels include long-running names like Zorlu Grand and Radisson Blu; apartments are plentiful for families.
Getting in: Fly into Trabzon (TZX). From Istanbul is ~1h45m; Ankara ~1h10m. Compare fares on Trip.com flights or Kiwi.com. If you’re coming from or via Europe, also check Omio flights.
Rize (Ayder/Çamlıhemşin)
Rize is Turkey’s tea capital—steeped, literally, in terraces. From the city’s botanic tea garden, the view rolls green to the sea. Inland, the Fırtına Valley carves toward the Kaçkar Mountains, passing stone bridges, castles, foaming rapids, and yayla (summer plateaus) like Ayder and Pokut.
- Top sights: Ziraat Botanik Çay Bahçesi (panoramic tea garden); Çayeli’s famous beans; Fırtına Valley rafting; Zilkale Castle; Palovit Waterfall; Ayder hot springs; Pokut & Sal plateaus.
- Eat & drink: Mıhlama (cheese-cornmeal), Laz böreği dessert, wood-fired pide, fresh river trout. In Çayeli, the classic is Hüsvrev Lokantası (buttery kuru fasulye with rice).
- Fun fact: Ayder’s wooden houses use larch and chestnut—naturally resistant to the region’s rain.
Where to stay (Rize/Ayder): Choose Rize city for easy coastal access, or Ayder/Çamlıhemşin to wake up in the mountains. Well-known stays include Kaçkar Resort and Ayder Haşimoğlu; families like riverside bungalows in Fırtına Valley.
Getting there from Trabzon: The coast drive to Rize is ~1.5–2 hours (morning traffic varies). If not driving, frequent buses/minibuses run the route (roughly $5–10). For open-jaw flights (into TZX, out of Rize–Artvin RZV), compare on Trip.com or Kiwi.com.
Day 1 — Arrival in Trabzon, Meydan & Boztepe
Afternoon: Arrive at TZX, check in near Meydan/Ortahisar. Shake off the flight with a stroll through Meydan Parkı and the bazaar lanes. Coffee at a local spot around the square, then a quick look inside Ortahisar Fatih Cami (a former church) to set the historical tone.
Evening: Sunset tea at Boztepe—a hilltop tea garden with city-and-sea views. For dinner, try Niyazi Usta or Cemilusta for Akçaabat köfte, piyaz, and ayran. Dessert: order Hamsiköy sütlaç (rice pudding) or fırın sütlaç if you like a caramelized top.
Day 2 — Sumela Monastery and Atatürk Köşkü
Morning: Early start for Sumela Monastery (40–50 min to Altındere National Park). Walk the forest trail to the cliff-hugging complex; frescoes glow when light breaks through the mist. Expect an entrance fee payable on-site (plan for a few hundred TRY per adult).
Afternoon: Lunch near the park at a simple alabalık (trout) garden or at Manastır Cafe & Restaurant by the valley. Return to Trabzon for Atatürk Köşkü, a white 19th-century villa with manicured grounds—great for photos and a short history fix.
Evening: Seafood night by the water at Fevzi Hoca Balık (grilled anchovies in season, sea bream, mezzes) or a view meal at Cephanelik Restaurant tucked into the old arsenal. Cap with tea in Ortahisar’s lanes.
Day 3 — Uzungöl Day Trip
Morning: Drive to Uzungöl via Çaykara (~1.5–2 hours). Pause at tea terraces for photos, then park and walk the lakeside boardwalk. Take the short road up to the Uzungöl Observation Terrace for panoramic shots of the alpine lake, mosque, and clustered chalets.
Afternoon: Lunch lakeside—reliable choices include İnan Kardeşler Restaurant (part of a long-standing lodge) or Doğa Restaurant & Cafe for fresh trout, corn bread, and mıhlama. Optional mini-hike toward Şekersu Yaylası if the weather is clear.
Evening: Drive back to Trabzon. Casual dinner: Kuruoğlu Pide for butter-brushed Black Sea pide (try the kıymalı or peynirli). Grab a late-night herbal tea and people-watch at Meydan.
Day 4 — Aya Sofya, Sera Lake, and Old Town Eats
Morning: Visit Aya Sofya (Hagia Sophia) Trabzon, a 13th-century church with fine exterior reliefs. Continue to Sera Lake for an easy lakeside walk and a café stop.
Afternoon: Back in Ortahisar, browse the bazaar for copperwork, hazelnuts, and tea. Light lunch at a tradesmen’s spot—look for daily stews and stuffed vegetables—or a köfte repeat if you fell in love on Day 1.
Evening: Literary vibes and sunset at Kalepark (castle-park viewpoint with a café). For dinner, pick a modern Anatolian spot in town or return to Cephanelik if you want one more view-forward meal. Turn in early—tomorrow you change bases.
Day 5 — Coast to Rize, Çayeli Beans, and Tea Garden Sunset
Morning: Check out and drive east along the Black Sea Highway to Rize (~1.5–2 hours). En route, stop in Sürmene to see traditional knife workshops, then continue to Çayeli.
Afternoon: Lunch at Hüsrev Lokantası (Çayeli), famed for silky kuru fasulye with rice and pickles. Arrive in Rize and head to Ziraat Botanik Çay Bahçesi for a guided tasting of local teas with sweeping views over town and sea.
Evening: Drive 1 hour into Çamlıhemşin or Ayder to overnight closer to nature. Dinner riverside at a Fırtına Valley restaurant (look for places grilling trout on wood fire and serving mıhlama). Sleep to the sound of the river.
Day 6 — Fırtına Valley, Zilkale, Palovit Waterfall, and Rafting
Morning: Start with the stone arch bridges of Fırtına Deresi, then continue to the 14th-century Zilkale, perched above the gorge. Climb the battlements for eagle-eye views.
Afternoon: Short drive to Palovit Şelalesi, one of Kaçkar’s most photogenic waterfalls. Lunch at a nearby village kitchen—expect corn bread, greens, beans, and yogurt. If river levels are safe, go rafting on Fırtına (typically $15–30 per person; outfitters cluster along the main road).
Evening: Back to your lodge. Dessert tip: try Laz böreği (a custard-filled, lightly syrupy pastry). Warm up with tea by a wood stove if evenings are cool.
Day 7 — Ayder Hot Springs and Pokut & Sal Plateaus
Morning: Easy stroll around Ayder Yaylası’s wooden houses and meadows. Soak at the Ayder hot springs if you fancy a mineral bath. Brunch on mıhlama, fried eggs, olives, honey, and village cheeses.
Afternoon: Weather-permitting, 4x4 or careful drive to Pokut and Sal plateaus (allow time for slow mountain roads). When the clouds part, you’ll see pine ridges, chalet rooftops, and the Kaçkar range floating on mist.
Evening: Return to Ayder/Çamlıhemşin. Dinner at Eylül Restoran (Ayder) or a similar local spot for trout, corn bread, and sautéed greens. Pack for tomorrow’s departure.
Day 8 — Rize Tea and Departure
Morning: If you stayed in the valley, head down to Rize city. Swing by the Rize Museum (Sarı Ev) if time allows to see ethnographic pieces, or make one last tea stop at the botanic garden.
Afternoon: Depart from Rize–Artvin Airport (RZV) or drive back to Trabzon Airport (TZX) (about 2 hours). For fares and multi-city tickets, compare on Trip.com, Kiwi.com, or if flying to/from Europe, Omio flights.
Local Dining Shortlist (Save These!)
- Niyazi Usta (Trabzon): classic Akçaabat köfte, piyaz, ayran; quick service, family-friendly.
- Cemilusta (Trabzon): köfte and grilled meats; dependable for groups.
- Fevzi Hoca Balık (coastal): fresh fish, seasonal anchovy dishes, seaside vibe.
- Kuruoğlu Pide (Trabzon): Black Sea pide with generous butter and cheese.
- Hüsrev Lokantası (Çayeli): the region’s benchmark for kuru fasulye with rice and pickles.
- Eylül Restoran (Ayder): trout, mıhlama, and local greens; cozy mountain setting.
- Ziraat Botanik Çay Bahçesi (Rize): tea tastings with a panoramic terrace.
Getting Around
- Car: Easiest for Uzungöl and the plateaus; parking is straightforward outside peak mid-day hours.
- Public transport: Frequent coastal buses/minibuses connect Trabzon–Rize–Çayeli–Ardeşen. In valleys, ask your hotel about dolmuş schedules or shared taxis.
- Flights: For arrivals/departures, compare on Trip.com, Kiwi.com, and for Europe routes, Omio flights.
Eight days in الشمال التركي gives you two distinct flavors: Trabzon’s history and lake country, and Rize’s valley adventures and tea-laced plateaus. You’ll leave with mist in your hair, butter on your lips, and the quiet of the Kaçkar in your ears—already plotting a return in a different season.