7 Perfect Days in the Dolomites: A Family-Friendly Itinerary for Ortisei and Dobbiaco
The Dolomites—UNESCO-listed limestone peaks in northern Italy—have been shaped by ancient coral reefs, Ladin culture, and Alpine traditions. Today, sleek gondolas, well-marked trails, and welcoming rifugi make this region one of Europe’s best family hiking and ski playgrounds. Expect meadows that look painted, scenic lakes, and mountain huts serving dumplings, strudel, and hot chocolate with mountain views.
In summer and early fall, lifts whisk you to panoramic ridgelines like Seceda and Alpe di Siusi; in winter, gentle ski areas and sledding runs take over. The area is famously family-friendly: stroller-smooth trails, themed walks, playgrounds at altitude, and excellent public transport. Food is a delicious blend of Italian and Tyrolean—think speck, canederli (bread dumplings), polenta, and wood-fired pizza.
Plan for variable mountain weather and bring layers, sun protection, and grippy footwear. Many valleys include a guest card (free buses/trains) when you stay locally; ask your host. Popular spots like Tre Cime and Lago di Braies use road restrictions or shuttles in high season—reserve in advance and go early.
Ortisei (Val Gardena)
Ortisei (Urtijëi in Ladin) is the colorful heart of Val Gardena, famed for woodcarving, a handsome pedestrian center, and two headliner lifts: Seceda and Alpe di Siusi. It’s ideal for families: car-free streets, riverside walks, and cable cars rising right from town.
Top sights include the razorback ridge of Seceda, the rolling pastures of Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm), and the Museum Gherdëina, which tells the valley’s Ladin story and woodcarving heritage. Evenings are for gelato strolls, toy shops, and hearty grills or pizza.
- Where to stay (mid-range & family-friendly): Self-catered apartments or family rooms near the Ortisei center keep costs down and cafes close. Browse stays on VRBO Ortisei or Hotels.com Ortisei.
- Getting there: Fly to Venice (VCE), Verona (VRN), Innsbruck (INN), or Munich (MUC). Check fares on Omio (flights). From Venice/Verona, trains via Verona/Bozen-Bolzano to Ponte Gardena/Waidbruck, then bus 350 to Ortisei (about 3.5–4.5 hours total; €25–€45). Search schedules on Omio (trains) and Omio (buses). Driving: 3–3.5 hours from Venice; parking is well signed in Ortisei.
Day 1: Arrival in Ortisei and Alpine Warm-Up
Afternoon: Arrive and check in. Stretch your legs along the flat riverside path to Val d’Anna—kids can splash by the stream and there’s a playground near the meadow. Pop into the Museum Gherdëina if the weather is iffy; the carved nativity scenes are enchanting.
Evening: Dinner at Tubladel (wood-fired grill, local game, cozy timbered rooms—book ahead). For a simpler option, Mauriz Keller does crisp pizzas and Tyrolean plates in a rustic hall. Sweet finish at Caffè Corso for cakes and hot chocolate.
Day 2: Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm) for Meadows, Benches, and Easy Trails
Morning: Grab pastries at Pasticceria Demetz and ride the Ortisei–Alpe di Siusi gondola to Europe’s largest high plateau. Walk the gentle loop from Compaccio toward Malga Sanon—kids can run wild in the meadows; bring a picnic blanket.
Afternoon: Continue to Schgaguler Schwaige for a farm-fresh lunch (polenta with cheese, elderflower spritz for adults). If energy allows, follow the Witch’s Benches (Panchine delle Streghe) on the Bullaccia/Puflatsch loop for storytelling views over Sciliar. Stroller-friendly stretches abound.
Evening: Back in town, soak at the family-friendly Mar Dolomit pools (indoor/outdoor; slides). Dinner at Mauriz Keller if you didn’t last night, or try Vedl Mulin (seasonal Ladin dishes and good kids’ options).
Day 3: Seceda Ridgeline and Rifugi Hopping
Morning: Coffee and krapfen at Pasticceria Demetz. Take the Ortisei–Seceda cable car to the famed shark-fin ridge. Snap photos at the top, then stroll an easy, scenic track to the Pieralongia rock spires; kids love the grazing cows and marmot sightings.
Afternoon: Continue to Rifugio Firenze/Regensburger Hütte for a hearty lunch (canederli, apple strudel). Descend via the Col Raiser gondola and hop the valley bus back to Ortisei (buses are frequent in season; rides are often free with local guest cards).
Evening: Casual dinner along the pedestrian street—look for pizzerie with wood ovens and outdoor tables. Gelato stroll and souvenir stop at a woodcarving workshop for a small nativity figure or painted spinner toy.
Dobbiaco (Toblach) in Alta Pusteria
Dobbiaco sits where emerald lakes meet big mountain classics like Tre Cime di Lavaredo. It’s an ideal, budget-friendlier base than Cortina, with quick access to Lago di Braies, the Dobbiaco Lake loop, and the family area at Baranci (Haunold) in nearby San Candido.
Expect wide bike paths, playgrounds, and gentle lakeside walks. Food leans Tyrolean-comfort: dumplings, goulash, schnitzel, plus reliable pizzerias. Buses and trains connect the valley efficiently, and many hotels include a Guest Pass for free regional transport.
- Where to stay: Apartments and guesthouses near the station or lake keep logistics simple. Compare on VRBO Dobbiaco and Hotels.com Dobbiaco.
- Getting from Ortisei to Dobbiaco: By car: ~1.5 hours via Val Gardena and SS49. By public transport: bus to Ponte Gardena + trains via Fortezza/Franzensfeste to Dobbiaco, ~2.5 hours; check Omio (trains) and Omio (buses).
Day 4: Scenic Transfer via Val di Funes to Dobbiaco
Morning: Check out and drive or bus/train toward Val di Funes for a postcard pause at Santa Maddalena’s meadows (short farm lane strolls; please respect private land and posted signs). If time allows, start the kid-friendly Adolf Munkel Trail beneath the Odle/Geisler peaks from Zannes—turn back whenever it suits.
Afternoon: Continue to Dobbiaco and check in. Take a gentle leg-stretcher around Lago di Dobbiaco (flat 2.5–3 km loop with boardwalks and a playground).
Evening: Dinner at Ristorante Ariston (fresh pastas, grilled trout) or Pizzeria Hans (thin-crust pies, friendly service). Try a local lager or elderflower soda.
Day 5: Tre Cime di Lavaredo—Alpine Icon Day
Morning: Early start. In high season, the toll road from Misurina to Rifugio Auronzo may require a reservation; otherwise, use the shuttle. From Auronzo, walk to Forcella Lavaredo for the famous view of the north faces—this out-and-back already delivers wow for little legs.
Afternoon: If the family’s up for more, continue to Rifugio Locatelli/Dreizinnenhütte (adds rocks, spires, and a good chance to spot choughs). Lunch at Auronzo or Locatelli (soups, dumplings, cakes). Return the same way or complete the classic loop if energy and weather are perfect.
Evening: Stroll San Candido’s pedestrian street (10 minutes by train/bus). Grab gelato or krapfen at a local bakery like Bäckerei Trenker, then back to Dobbiaco for an easy night.
Day 6: Lago di Braies at Dawn + Lake Day in Alta Pusteria
Morning: Head early to Lago di Braies to beat crowds and secure parking/shuttle slots (summer often requires advance reservations). Walk the 3.5 km lakeside loop (some stairs on the far side) and, if available, rent a rowboat for a storybook glide across the turquoise water.
Afternoon: Return for a relaxed lunch near Dobbiaco Lake—several lakefront spots serve simple plates with views. Then let kids play at the lakeside playground or rent family bikes for a short spin on the Puster Valley cycle path.
Evening: Dinner back in Dobbiaco. For Tyrolean comfort, order canederli in broth and a crisp schnitzel; for Italian, share a pizza and salad at Pizzeria Hans. Early bedtime after the sunrise start.
Day 7: Baranci (Haunold) Family Fun + Departure
Morning: Pack, then ride the short train or bus to San Candido Baranci/Haunold (summer “Funbob” alpine coaster, trampolines, petting zones; in winter, gentle ski slopes and sled runs). Coffee and strudel at Rifugio Baranci with Dolomite views.
Afternoon: Lunch on-mountain or in San Candido, then retrieve bags and depart. For onward travel, find routes on Omio (trains) and Omio (flights). If flying from Venice, expect ~3.5–4.5 hours by train/bus; Innsbruck is ~2.5–3.5 hours by train.
Evening: If you’re overnighting elsewhere, celebrate with one last Tyrolean dessert—kaiserschmarrn or apple strudel—and toast a week of mountain memories.
- Budget tips (targeting a 50/100 budget): Favor apartments with kitchens via VRBO Ortisei and VRBO Dobbiaco, picnic for lunches, use guest cards for free transit, and ride lifts strategically on clear days.
- Seasonal notes: Summer lifts typically run late May/June–Oct; winter season is Dec–Mar. Tre Cime toll road and Braies access are controlled in peak months—reserve parking/shuttles early. Trails can be snowy in shoulder seasons; check local info daily.
From meadow rambles on Alpe di Siusi to the jagged drama of Tre Cime and the mirror-glass of Lago di Braies, this Dolomites itinerary layers big views with kid-ready logistics. With Ortisei and Dobbiaco as smart bases, you’ll balance gondola thrills, gentle trails, and hearty cuisine—at a comfortable, mid-range budget.

