7 Perfect Days in Brittany (Bretagne): Saint-Malo Ramparts to the Gulf of Morbihan
Wild coasts, half-timbered towns, and the perfume of salted butter caramel—Brittany (Bretagne) is France at full tide. Once a Celtic duchy, it still speaks with a distinct identity: Breton language on street signs, fest-noz dances, and a cuisine rooted in the sea and buckwheat fields. From corsair citadels to island-speckled bays, every bend on this coast pairs history with bracing Atlantic air.
Across seven days you’ll split time between two bases—Saint-Malo on the Emerald Coast and Vannes on the Golfe du Morbihan. Expect easy train connections, short ferries, and day trips that stitch together Dinan’s ramparts, Cancale’s oyster parks, Carnac’s Stone-Age alignments, and the surf-lashed Quiberon peninsula. This itinerary balances scenic walks, slow lunches, and intimate neighborhood finds.
Practical notes: Tides govern access to some sights (Grand Bé near Saint-Malo, bay viewpoints near Mont-Saint-Michel), so check boards in town each morning. Book popular restaurants and boat tickets ahead in summer. Brittany’s classics—galettes (buckwheat crêpes), cider in a bolée, kouign-amann, and Bordier butter—are more than clichés; they’re delicious fuel for coastal wandering.
Saint-Malo
Walled and sea-battered, Saint-Malo was rebuilt stone by stone after WWII, preserving its granite glow and corsair swagger. Walk the complete circuit of ramparts for lighthouse panoramas, tide pools, and a front-row seat to some of Europe’s highest tides.
- Top sights: Intra-Muros ramparts, Plage du Sillon, Fort National (tidal access), Grand Bé (Chateaubriand’s tomb).
- Nearby gems: Dinard by 10-minute boat, medieval Dinan up the Rance River, Cancale’s oyster farms, Pointe du Grouin coastal paths.
- What to taste: Cancale oysters on the half-shell, buckwheat galettes with andouille de Guémené, Bordier butter, cider brut, kouign-amann.
Where to stay: Browse character stays Intra-Muros or sea-view flats by Plage du Sillon on VRBO or compare boutique hotels on Hotels.com.
How to get here: From Paris Montparnasse take a TGV to Rennes (~1h25), then TER to Saint-Malo (~55 min). Typical fares €35–€75 total depending on time; check Omio (trains in Europe). If you’re flying into France, compare fares to Paris and onward trains with Omio (flights to/from Europe).
Day 1: Arrival and First Walk on the Ramparts (Saint-Malo)
Morning: Travel to Saint-Malo. If you have a layover in Rennes between TGV/TER, grab a buttery pastry and espresso in the station hall before the final scenic hop to the coast.
Afternoon: Drop bags Intra-Muros and stretch your legs atop the 12th-century ramparts. Circle to Bastion de la Hollande for lighthouse views, then descend to Plage du Môle for a toe-dip. Coffee and pastry at Bergamote near the cathedral—try a slice of far breton or kouign-amann.
Evening: Classic Breton crepes at Le Corps de Garde perched on the walls (book a window table; order a complète with farm egg and a bolée of cider). Nightcap stroll along Plage du Sillon—watch the tide chew at the breakwaters.
Day 2: Dinard by Boat, Beaches, and Bordier Butter (Saint-Malo)
Morning: Hop the 10-minute ferry to Dinard for Belle Époque villas and market-fresh fruit (market days vary). Walk the Promenade du Clair de Lune, then espresso and a kouign-amann slice back in Saint-Malo.
Afternoon: Visit La Maison du Beurre (Bordier) for tastings of famed Breton butters (seaweed, smoked salt). Lunch at Brasserie du Sillon facing the beach—order the plateau de fruits de mer or roasted cod with seasonal vegetables.
Evening: Golden-hour loop to Fort National at low tide (verify times on the rampart boards). Dinner at L’Absinthe inside the walls for modern Breton seafood—monkfish, line-caught turbot, or scallops when in season.
Day 3: Cancale Oysters and Dinan’s Medieval Lanes (from Saint-Malo)
Morning: Bus to Cancale (~45 minutes; BreizhGo line; ~€2.50). Slurp oysters at the Marché aux Huîtres right on the seawall—buy a dozen No.3s and a lemon, then sit overlooking the farms of the bay.
Afternoon: Hike part of the customs path near Pointe du Grouin for cerulean coves, then continue inland by bus/train to Dinan. Wander Rue du Jerzual’s steep cobbles, timbered houses, and the port. Late lunch or early crepe stop at Crêperie Ahna (a local icon).
Evening: Return to Saint-Malo. Casual galettes and natural cider at Breizh Café Intra-Muros—buckwheat from Brittany, butter from Bordier, fillings that change with farms and boats. If skies are clear, finish with salted caramel ice cream on the ramparts.
Vannes
Set on a sheltered inlet, Vannes looks like a medieval postcard—flowered remparts, crooked half-timbered facades, and café terraces spilling into lanes. It also fronts the Golfe du Morbihan, a “little sea” sprinkled with islands, oyster beds, and mirror-smooth sunrise ferries.
- Top sights: Old Town and Cathédrale Saint-Pierre, Jardins des Remparts, Port de Vannes promenade.
- Nearby gems: Île-aux-Moines and Île d’Arz (bike-friendly isles), Carnac megaliths, Auray’s Saint-Goustan port, Quiberon’s Côte Sauvage.
- What to taste: Morbihan oysters, buckwheat galettes with fresh goat cheese and honey, cider and local beers, caramel au beurre salé.
Where to stay: Sleep steps from the timbered squares or by the marina via VRBO, or browse boutique hotels and family rooms on Hotels.com.
Getting here from Saint-Malo: Morning train via Rennes (usually 2h45–3h; €25–€45). Times and fares on Omio (trains in Europe). Vannes station is a 10–15-minute walk to the old town.
Day 4: Transfer to Vannes and Half-Timbered Streets
Morning: Depart Saint-Malo by train. Snack box for the ride: a loaf from a local boulangerie plus a puck of Bordier butter—very Breton.
Afternoon: Check in and wander Vannes’ old lanes: Place des Lices, Cathédrale Saint-Pierre, and the manicured Jardins des Remparts. Coffee at a specialty café near the port, then a lazy stroll along the marina to watch yachts nose in with the tide.
Evening: Treat yourself at Roscanvec (Michelin-starred; seasonal menus highlighting Gulf seafood and garden produce) or go rustic at L’Îlot Galettes for buckwheat galettes and farmhouse cider. Nightcap by the ramparts.
Day 5: Islands of the Golfe du Morbihan
Morning: Board a local boat from Vannes to Île-aux-Moines (~20–30 minutes; frequent sailings). Rent bikes at the pier and circle the island’s coves and hydrangea-lined lanes. Pack a picnic or reserve a terrace table overlooking the water.
Afternoon: Ferry hop to Île d’Arz for quiet beaches and birdlife. Swim if it’s warm; otherwise, shellfish tasting and a coffee under the pines.
Evening: Back in Vannes, dinner on the port—think oysters, mussels marinière, and a glass of Muscadet. For dessert, a warm crêpe with caramel au beurre salé.
Day 6: Carnac Megaliths and Auray’s Saint-Goustan
Morning: Train Vannes to Auray (~12 minutes), then bus to Carnac (~30–40 minutes; BreizhGo line). Walk the iconic Carnac alignments—thousands of Neolithic standing stones, older than Stonehenge. Book a guided visit at the Maison des Mégalithes kiosk for context on dolmens, tumuli, and alignments.
Afternoon: Lunch in Carnac-Plage—seafood at La Calypso or a galette and salad at La Poêle à Crêpes. If it’s beach weather, swim; otherwise explore the Museum of Prehistory in Carnac town.
Evening: Bus back to Auray – Saint-Goustan, a cobbled port of stone arches and artists’ studios. Dinner at a quayside bistro (grilled sardines or butter-bathed skate when in season) before returning to Vannes by train.
Day 7: Quiberon’s Wild Coast and Departure
Morning: Early train to Auray then bus (or seasonal “Tire-Bouchon” summer train) to Quiberon. Hike the Côte Sauvage for heather, spray, and blowholes—an easy clifftop path with constant Atlantic drama.
Afternoon: Lunch at Le Vivier perched above the rocks—oysters, langoustines, and sea views that stretch to horizon. Quick beach stop on the bay side (calmer waters) before heading back toward Vannes.
Evening: Collect bags and board a TGV from Vannes to Paris Montparnasse (~2h30; check Omio (trains in Europe)). If your flight is same-day, aim for late evening departures; otherwise, plan a Paris overnight.
Getting Around and Booking Tips
- Trains: Use Omio for TGV/TER tickets (Paris–Rennes–Saint-Malo; Vannes–Paris) and for planning intercity hops.
- Buses: Regional BreizhGo lines link Saint-Malo–Cancale, Auray–Carnac–Quiberon; see options on Omio (buses in Europe). Services are more frequent in summer.
- Boats: Local ferries cross Saint-Malo–Dinard and crisscross the Golfe du Morbihan (Vannes–Île-aux-Moines/Île d’Arz). Summer schedules are generous; spring/autumn are reduced. For other water routes in Europe, browse Omio (ferries in Europe).
Where to Eat and Drink—Quick Picks by Town
- Saint-Malo: Breakfast at Bergamote (tea room cakes, kouign-amann). Galettes at Le Corps de Garde. Seafood platters at beachside Brasserie du Sillon. Modern Breton plates at L’Absinthe. Butter tastings at La Maison du Beurre – Bordier.
- Cancale: Oysters at the seawall Marché aux Huîtres. Sea-view lunch at La Mère Champlain. Inventive crêpes at Breizh Café (Cancale).
- Dinan: Traditional crêpes at Crêperie Ahna; café terraces around Place des Merciers.
- Vannes: Tasting menus at Roscanvec. Galettes at L’Îlot Galettes. Port-side brasseries for mussels and daily catch.
- Carnac & Quiberon: La Poêle à Crêpes or La Calypso in Carnac; cliff-top seafood at Le Vivier in Quiberon.
Optional Pre/Post: Paris Add‑Ons (If You Overnight for Flights)
Many travelers transit via Paris when visiting Brittany. If you add a night before or after, these vetted experiences are easy wins:
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Bateaux Parisiens Seine River Gourmet Dinner & Sightseeing Cruise
Bateaux Parisiens Seine River Gourmet Dinner & Sightseeing Cruise on Viator Glide past the Île de la Cité and the Eiffel Tower as you dine—an atmospheric welcome or farewell to France.
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Louvre Museum Masterpieces Guided Tour with Reserved Access
Louvre Museum Masterpieces Guided Tour with Reserved Access on Viator See the Mona Lisa without getting lost in the world’s largest museum—ideal if time in Paris is short.
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Mont Saint Michel Day Trip from Paris with English Speaking Guide
Mont Saint Michel Day Trip from Paris with English Speaking Guide on Viator If you miss the abbey while based in Brittany, this guided option covers the logistics from Paris.
Final Notes: Summer (late June–August) brings long daylight and frequent boats but also crowds—reserve key restaurants and island ferries. Spring and September are sweet spots for calmer paths and warm seas, especially in the Morbihan.
In one week, you’ll crest Saint-Malo’s granite ramparts, taste Cancale’s briny oysters, pedal quiet island lanes, and stand among Carnac’s ancient stones before ending on Quiberon’s cliff edge at sunset. Brittany rewards unhurried travelers—this itinerary builds in space for tides, appetite, and serendipity.