Hiiumaa—also known as Hiiu County—is Estonia’s serene, pine-scented island in the Baltic Sea. Settled for millennia and ruled in turns by Danish, Swedish, and Russian powers, it shelters one of the world’s oldest operating lighthouses (Kõpu, c. 1531) and the fascinating story of a meteorite that reshaped Kärdla’s landscape. Wind-sculpted junipers, quiet fishing harbors, and long arcs of sand feel worlds away from the city.

Locals prize simple, perfect flavors: smoked flounder, island lamb, chanterelles, and rye bread. Summer brings midnight-tinged light, pop-up home cafés, and folk music; autumn means mushrooming and bird migrations over Käina Bay. Expect excellent cycling, family-friendly walks like Sääretirp, and a lighthouse triad worth the climb—Tahkuna, Ristna, and timeless Kõpu.

Practical notes: You’ll likely route via Tallinn, then bus + ferry to Heltermaa, or a short domestic flight to Kärdla (limited schedule). Card payments are widely accepted; pack layers for sea breezes and a rain shell year-round. If you’re driving, book ferries in advance in peak season and watch for elk after dusk.

Kärdla

Capital of Hiiumaa and a gentle seaside town, Kärdla is your gateway: sandy beach, low-slung wooden houses, and the island’s main museum. It’s also a great base for the northern lighthouses, WWII-era sites, and dunes around Tahkuna.

• Top sights: Hiiumaa Museum (Long House), Kärdla Beach promenade, Tahkuna Lighthouse, MS Estonia memorial, and Suursadam (Great Harbor) area near the airport.
• What to eat: Baltic fish (flounder, Baltic herring), wild mushrooms in season, and contemporary Estonian plates at island bistros.
• Why stay here first: Easy arrival from Heltermaa port, widest dining choice on the island, and central access to the north and west coasts.

Where to stay (Kärdla): Browse seaside cabins, guesthouses, and apartments on VRBO or compare hotels and inns on Hotels.com. Look for properties with saunas and bike rentals.

How to get here: Fly into Tallinn, then take a bus to Rohuküla Harbor (~1h45, ~$12–15) and ferry to Heltermaa (~1h15, foot passenger ~$10–15; car + driver ~$25–35). Search flights to Tallinn on Omio, buses on Omio, and ferries on Omio. Limited Tallinn–Kärdla flights operate on select days (30 min; check schedules).

Kassari (Käina Bay) & the Kõpu Peninsula

In the southeast, Kassari is a postcard of reedbeds, thatched-roof chapels, and the thin spit of Sääretirp stretching into the sea. It’s the doorway to Käina Bay Nature Reserve and harbors like Orjaku, beloved by birders and sunset chasers.

• Top sights: Sääretirp spit, Kassari Chapel, Hiiumaa Museum’s Kassari House, Orjaku Harbor boardwalk and bird tower, and the windswept west—Kõpu and Ristna lighthouses.
• Dining highlights: Island-famous Lest & Lammas (flounder and lamb, Kassari), summer harbor cafés at Orjaku and Sõru, and smoke-sauna suppers at farmstays.
• Why base here second: Easy reach to the southeast nature trails and a full-day push to the Kõpu Peninsula, with beach breaks at Ristna and Kaleste.

Where to stay (Kassari): Find cottages, farmhouses, and harbor-view rooms on VRBO or check inns and boutique stays via Hotels.com. Many offer bike rentals and sauna access.

Day 1: Arrival via Tallinn → Heltermaa → Kärdla

Morning: Fly into Tallinn. If you arrive early, grab a light bite at the airport, then head to the bus for Rohuküla Harbor (~1h45). Book buses on Omio and the ferry to Heltermaa (~1h15) on Omio. If renting a car in Tallinn, plan for ~1h30 drive to the harbor.

Afternoon: Land at Heltermaa and drive 25–30 minutes to Kärdla. Check into your guesthouse. Stretch your legs along Kärdla Beach; the air smells of pine and salt, and the breeze makes even a short walk feel like a reset.

Evening: Dinner at Rannapaargu in Kärdla—an iconic, modernist-era seaside restaurant with big windows onto the bay. Go for pan-fried flounder or creamy fish soup, plus local rye bread. Nightcap back at your lodging; set the sauna to preheat if you’ve got one.

Day 2: Kärdla and the Tahkuna Peninsula

Morning: Coffee and pastries at Hiiu Pagar (island bakery brand; try the cardamom rolls). Walk to the Hiiumaa Museum (Long House) to learn about the Kärdla meteorite crater and island life—helpful context before you roam.

Afternoon: Drive 25–35 minutes to Tahkuna Lighthouse at the island’s northern tip. Climb for Baltic panoramas (seasonal opening; May–Sept in most years). Visit the moving MS Estonia memorial nearby, then ramble the beaches of Tahkuna Nature Reserve—look for amber after storms.

Evening: Dine at Ungru Resto near Kärdla Airport, known for local fish, garden greens, and elegant plates without fuss. If the sky is clear, detour to Lehtma Harbor for a violet-hued sunset.

Day 3: West Coast: Kõrgessaare, Kaleste, and Ristna

Morning: Drive west to Kõrgessaare and Kaleste Beach (35–45 minutes). This is one of Hiiumaa’s prettiest strands: pale sand, crooked pines, and warm shallows in July. Bring a thermos for a slow beach breakfast.

Afternoon: Continue to the Ristna area. If winds cooperate, book a beginner session with a local surf school at Ristna Beach (summer season) or rent a SUP for the calmer coves. Pop up the Ristna Lighthouse and scan for sea eagles.

Evening: In season, try the Ristna Surf Café or Kalana Harbor’s summer kitchen for grilled fish and cold Estonian beer. Off-season, return to Kärdla for dinner—ask at Rannapaargu about the daily catch or try a cozy pub plate in town.

Day 4: Kärdla → Kassari Base, with Suuremõisa Manor

Morning: Check out after breakfast. Drive southeast toward Kassari (approx. 35–45 minutes). En route, stop at Suuremõisa Manor—an 18th-century baroque gem. Tour the halls, then enjoy coffee and cake at the manor café.

Afternoon: Check into your Kassari lodging. Walk the famous Sääretirp spit, a narrow tongue of stones and gravel stretching into the sea—perfect for photos and a meditative stroll. Bring a light jacket; winds funnel here.

Evening: Dinner at Lest & Lammas on Kassari, celebrated for island flounder, lamb, and seasonal sides. Book ahead in summer. End with a sauna session and stargazing; light pollution is minimal.

Day 5: Käina Bay Nature Reserve and Orjaku Harbor

Morning: Early birding on the Käina Bay towers—peak migrations in spring and autumn, but year-round sightings are rewarding. Rent bikes or kayaks from local outfitters in Kassari to explore quiet lanes and reed-fringed inlets.

Afternoon: Visit the Hiiumaa Museum’s Kassari House to see island farm-life exhibits, then amble the Orjaku boardwalk. For lunch, look for the Orjaku Harbor restaurant (summer season) or pack a picnic with smoked fish and cheeses from the Kassari shop.

Evening: Consider a smoke-sauna experience at a Kassari or Orjaku guesthouse—ask your host. For dinner, return to Lest & Lammas or try a harbor bistro near Sõru if it’s open (summer evenings can be lively with live music and sunset views).

Day 6: Day Trip to the Kõpu Peninsula

Morning: Drive 60–70 minutes to Kõpu Lighthouse, one of the world’s oldest continuously operating beacons (1531). Climb the thick, ancient tower for sweeping views, then take a forest trail into the surrounding dunes and heaths.

Afternoon: Continue to Ristna for a second look—conditions change daily, and the light is different each hour. Detour to the boulder-studded coves near Kalana for tidepooling and photos. Coffee break at a seasonal beach café if open; otherwise, bring a flask.

Evening: Drive back to Kassari. Casual dinner at your guesthouse or a repeat of a favorite spot. If the sky is clear, sunset at Sääretirp is a memory-maker—on calm days the sea mirrors like glass.

Day 7: Slow Morning → Ferry to Mainland → Depart

Morning: Easy breakfast—rye toast, island honey, and berries if in season. Pick up small souvenirs from local craft shops (juniper wood utensils are classic) and take a final walk among the junipers.

Afternoon: Drive 25–35 minutes to Heltermaa for the ferry to Rohuküla (~1h15). Continue by bus to Tallinn (~1h45). Search ferries and buses on Omio Ferries and Omio Buses, and check flights out of Tallinn via Omio Flights. Aim for an afternoon or evening departure.

Evening: If you’re staying one more night on the mainland, celebrate with a seafood dinner in Tallinn; otherwise, onward connections home.

Extra tips and local gems:

• Seasonality: Lighthouse climbs and harbor cafés are chiefly open May–September; spring and fall are great for birding; winter is quiet and atmospheric.
• Getting around: A rental car offers the most flexibility (reserve early in July/August). Island buses exist but are infrequent; bikes are excellent for Kassari and Käina Bay.
• What to pack: Windproof layer, quick-dry shoes, swimsuit, binoculars for birds and seals, and a small picnic blanket for beach stops.
• Food to try: Smoked flounder, Baltic herring, mushroom cream soup, kama desserts, and Estonian craft beers or birch sap drinks in season.

Seven days on Hiiumaa gives you time to exhale: beach walks without crowds, lighthouses that have watched centuries pass, and honest island cooking. You’ll leave with sand in your shoes, juniper on the breeze, and a quiet sense that you’ve found a Baltic refuge worth returning to.