Old as myth and alive as morning light, Varanasi (Banaras/Kashi) has welcomed pilgrims for over 2,500 years. Its 80+ ghats step down to the sacred Ganges River, where life’s everyday rituals unfold beside cremation fires that have burned for centuries. Now revitalized by the Kashi Vishwanath Corridor, the city balances deep tradition with restored access and cleaner, better-managed public spaces.

Expect sensory richness: temple bells, marigold garlands, sadhus in saffron, oars slicing dawn water. Boat rides at sunrise, the nightly Ganga Aarti, and alleyway explorations reveal a city that is spiritual, photogenic, and endlessly human. Day trips to Sarnath, where the Buddha first taught, and to Ramnagar Fort add texture to the story.

Practical notes: October–March offers the most pleasant weather. Dress modestly at temples, remove shoes, and respect “no photography” rules at cremation ghats. Try kachori-sabzi breakfasts, lassi served in clay cups, and classic thalis—but carry bottled water and moderate street-food adventure if you have a sensitive stomach.

Varanasi

Varanasi is India’s spiritual heartbeat—a living city where devotion, music, craft, and cuisine run together like the Ganga herself. Mornings begin with arati lamps and conch shells; evenings glow with synchronized rituals on Dashashwamedh and Assi Ghats. In between, discover handloom workshops producing Banarasi silk sarees prized since the Mughal era.

Top sights include the Kashi Vishwanath Temple and Corridor, a labyrinth of historic ghats from Assi to Manikarnika, the BHU campus and Bharat Kala Bhavan museum, Sarnath’s Dhamek Stupa, and Ramnagar Fort’s quirky museum of vintage cars and arms. Don’t miss a lassi at Blue Lassi Shop, chaat at Kashi Chaat Bhandar, and a classic UP-Bihar platter at Baati Chokha.

Where to stay (Varanasi):

• BrijRama Palace (heritage on Darbhanga Ghat; river-view rooms, boat access): Check BrijRama Palace
• Taj Ganges, Varanasi (resort-style calm, excellent dining): Check Taj Ganges
• Hotel Surya, Kaiser Palace (value heritage, leafy grounds): Check Hotel Surya
• Zostel Varanasi (social, traveler-favorite hostel): Check Zostel Varanasi
• Stops Hostel Varanasi (budget, community feel near Assi): Check Stops Hostel
• Browse more stays on Hotels.com: Varanasi hotels or VRBO: Varanasi vacation rentals

How to get to Varanasi (VNS):

• Fly: Frequent nonstops from Delhi (~1h20m), Mumbai (~2h10m), Kolkata (~1h15m), and Bangalore (~2h30m). Typical one-way fares run ~US$40–150. Search options: Trip.com flights or Kiwi.com.
• Train: Comfortable AC Chair Car/Vande Bharat New Delhi–Varanasi (~8–9.5 hours), Lucknow–Varanasi (~5–6 hours), or overnight sleepers from many cities. Expect ~US$8–35 depending on class. Book via Trip.com trains.
• Airport–old city: 45–70 minutes by taxi; prepaid taxis or app cabs usually ₹800–1,200 (~US$10–15). The old city is mostly pedestrian—expect to walk or use boats/e‑rickshaws.

Day 1: Arrival, First Glimpse of the Ghats, and the Ganga Aarti

Afternoon: Arrive and check in. If you’re riverside, decompress with chai on a terrace facing the Ganga—watch boats glide past as priests prepare for the evening rituals. If staying near Assi or Godowlia, take a gentle orientation walk through Vishwanath Gali to get the feel of the lanes.

Evening: Witness the famous aarti from the river with a guided experience: Varanasi Evening Ganga Aarti Tour.

From a boat you’ll see synchronized priests with oil lamps, conch shells, and mantras set against Dashashwamedh Ghat’s glow. It’s theatrical, devotional, and sets the tone for the week.

Dinner: Try Varuna at Taj Ganges for classic North Indian and soft tandoori rotis, or Canton Royale at Hotel Surya for Mughlai platters in a heritage salon. Near the river, Shree Café serves homestyle thalis; for dessert, sample malaiyyo (seasonal milk froth sweet) if visiting in winter mornings.

Day 2: Sunrise Boat, Kashi Vishwanath & Old-City Alleys

Morning: Meet the dawn by boat: Varanasi Morning Boat Tour [RowBoat].

As the sun warms the ghats, you’ll pass bathers, wrestlers at akharas, and priests offering prayers. Post-ride, fuel up with kachori-sabzi and jalebi at Ram Bhandar in Thatheri Bazaar—a Varanasi breakfast ritual.

Afternoon: Visit the Kashi Vishwanath Temple and the new Corridor—carry ID and expect airport-style security. Stroll Vishwanath Gali for puja items, rudraksha beads, and sweets. Detour to Blue Lassi Shop for thick lassi in a kulhad (clay cup), then peek into a handloom in Madanpura to see Banarasi silk brocades being woven on jacquard looms.

Evening: Food-crawl near Godowlia: Dosa Café (tiny, terrific dosas and filter coffee), Kashi Chaat Bhandar (papdi chaat, tamatar chaat), and thandai at Mishrambu. If energy allows, walk the riverfront from Dashashwamedh to Assi for street performers and sadhus bathed in amber light.

Day 3: Sarnath—Where the Buddha First Taught

Morning: Drive 30–40 minutes to Sarnath. Explore the Dhamek Stupa, the ruins of the ancient monasteries, and the Ashokan pillar site. The excellent Sarnath Museum (check hours; traditionally closed on Fridays) houses the Lion Capital of Ashoka—India’s national emblem—and exquisite Gupta sculptures.

Afternoon: Lunch at a simple vegetarian dhaba near Sarnath, then return to town for Banaras Hindu University’s leafy campus. Visit Bharat Kala Bhavan museum for miniature paintings, sculpture, and textiles that contextualize the region’s art history.

Evening: Visit Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple (beware friendly monkeys—keep food sealed). Wrap up with dinner at Baati Chokha (Sigra/Ravindrapuri): smoky litti-chokha, ghee-drenched baati, chokha of roasted eggplant and tomato, and kheer for a sweet finish.

Day 4: Ramnagar Fort, Craft Villages, and Riverside Sunset

Morning: Cross the river (by road or boat) to Ramnagar Fort (~30–45 minutes). The museum’s vintage cars, palanquins, and armory are delightfully idiosyncratic; the fort’s ramparts frame grand river views. Grab chai with views of the pontoon bridge area and watch fishermen mend nets.

Afternoon: Return via the lesser-visited ghats downstream and wander potters’ lanes to see diyas (earthen lamps) being shaped. Shopping break: look for Banarasi dupattas, zari borders, gulabi meenakari (pink enamel) jewelry, and wooden toys. Ask your hotel to recommend fair-pricing cooperatives if you prefer fixed rates.

Evening: Sunset from Assi Ghat’s steps. For dinner, try Itihaas Alley Kitchen near Godowlia for kebabs and curries in a cozy setting, or head to the garden-side Mangi Ferra Café at Hotel Surya for continental comfort and live music on some nights.

Day 5: Lanes, Faces, and Frames—Guided Photo Immersion

Morning: Capture the city’s texture with a guided experience: Photo Tour In Holy Varanasi.

Learn respectful street-photography etiquette, find the best alley light, and compose portraits at flower markets and ghats. Non-photographers love this too—think of it as a storytelling walk.

Afternoon: Brunch at Aum Café (vegetarian bowls, smoothies) near Assi Ghat. Rest midday, then browse silk ateliers—ask to see fabric construction and looms, and request a certificate of handloom origin if you invest in a saree.

Evening: Consider attending Subah-e-Banaras at Assi Ghat on the following morning (pre-dawn classical music and yoga). Tonight, enjoy rooftop pizza and the famed apple pie at Vaatika Café (riverside, when open), or opt for a thali at Keshari Restaurant near Sigra.

Day 6: Temples, Ghats & Rituals—A Full-Day Curated Tour

Make this your “connect the dots” day with a local expert: Full Day Varanasi Private Tour with Temples, Ghats & Rituals.

This typically combines a serene sunrise glide, key temples like Tulsi Manas and Durga Kund, a university or museum stop, and guided storytelling through lanes you might miss solo. It’s ideal for history lovers who want context behind rituals and sites.

For meals, your guide can steer you to safe, flavorful kitchens: try tamatar chaat and pani puri at a trusted stall, and a late lunch of seasonal sabzis and rotis at a clean, local bhojanalaya. Evening is open for a second aarti—this time at Assi Ghat for a smaller, more intimate ceremony.

Day 7: Slow Morning, Last Sips, and Departure

Morning: If you’re an early riser, catch Subah-e-Banaras at Assi Ghat—classical music, Vedic chanting, and a soft dawn aarti. Otherwise, linger over coffee at Open Hand Café (breakfast burritos, good espresso) or a final lassi near Godowlia. Pick up last-minute souvenirs: incense, mini brass diyas, and silk stoles.

Afternoon (Departure): Airport transfers generally take 45–70 minutes; add buffer for traffic. If you have time, lunch at The Palate (Taj Ganges) for kebab platters, or a quick South Indian meal at Hari Vilaas near Sigra before heading out. Farewell to the river you’ll keep hearing in your mind’s ear.

Insider Tips:

• Footwear: Easy on/off shoes help at temples; carry a small bag for them or use the stands outside sanctums.
• Boats: Shared sunrise boats are budget-friendly; private rowboats are best for photography and flexibility.
• Respect: No photos at cremation ghats. When in doubt, ask before photographing people.
• Getting around: E‑rickshaws for short hops (₹100–200), app cabs for longer trips, and your feet for the lanes.

Optional Add-Ons (with time/energy):

• Chunar Fort day trip (~1.5 hours each way): Gritty riverside fort with cinematic views and a quieter countryside vibe.
• Classical music recital: Ask your hotel to check listings; small baithaks (salon concerts) happen seasonally.

Seven days in Varanasi let you experience the city’s rhythms rather than just its checklists. From sunrise oars to nightfall arati, from Buddhist Sarnath to brocade looms, you’ll carry home both images and understanding. May the river’s cadence follow you long after you leave.