7 Days in Varanasi: Ghats, Silk, and Sacred India
Varanasi—also called Kashi or Banaras—has been a magnet for pilgrims and poets for more than 2,500 years. Life flows to the rhythms of the Ganges: dawn prayers, ringing temple bells, floating diyas, and the low thrum of oars on the water. Few places are as immersive: one foot in the ancient, one in the eternal present.
Across 88 ghats, you’ll see priests performing ritual, wrestlers at dawn akharas, and silk weavers coaxing light into fabric. Buddhist history unfurls just north in Sarnath, where the Buddha delivered his first sermon. Photographers love the textures here: saffron robes, marigold garlands, and the shifting mirror of the river at sunrise.
Practical notes: dress modestly (shoulders/knees covered), remove shoes in temples, and never photograph cremations. Use licensed boats with life jackets. Tuk-tuks and walking cover most distances. For flights and trains to Varanasi (VNS), compare on Trip.com Flights, Kiwi.com, and India trains on Trip.com Trains.
Varanasi
Varanasi is India’s spiritual heartbeat—an unbroken line of ritual from prehistory to today. Follow the curve of the ghats, watch the sun ignite the water, then lose yourself in alleys humming with incense, sitar riffs, and snack stalls.
- Top sights: Dashashwamedh & Assi Ghats, Kashi Vishwanath Temple, Manikarnika & Harishchandra Ghats (no photography), Ramnagar Fort, Sarnath, BHU’s Bharat Kala Bhavan.
- Signature experiences: sunrise boat ride, evening Ganga Aarti, Banarasi silk weaving demos, street food crawl (chaat, lassi, kachori-jalebi).
- Getting there: Nonstops from Delhi (~1h20m, ~$40–120) and Mumbai (~2h, ~$60–150) via Trip.com Flights or Kiwi.com. Fast trains from Delhi take ~8 hours (~₹1,500–2,500) on Trip.com Trains.
- Stay near the ghats for atmosphere or in Cantonment for calm. Browse VRBO Varanasi or Hotels.com Varanasi.
Where to stay (curated):
- BrijRama Palace (on Darbhanga Ghat): 18th‑century palace with river-facing rooms and private boat access. Book on Hotels.com.
- Taj Ganges, Varanasi (Cantonment): Lush lawns, great pool, and the classic Varuna restaurant. Book on Hotels.com.
- Hotel Surya, Kaiser Palace: Heritage wing, leafy courtyard, and Canton Royale dining. Book on Hotels.com.
- Zostel Varanasi: Sociable, budget-friendly hostel. Book at Zostel.
- Stops Hostel (goSTOPS Lite): Clean bunks, common spaces, and tours. Book via Hostelworld.
Day 1: Arrival, First Glimpse of the Ghats, and the Evening Aarti
Afternoon: Arrive at Varanasi (VNS). Check in, refresh, and take a gentle orientation walk from Assi Ghat toward Dashashwamedh. Pause for masala chai at Pappu Tea Stall (near Assi)—the banter is as good as the brew.
Evening: Experience the riverfront ritual with the Varanasi Evening Ganga Aarti Tour—boat ride plus front-row views of priests performing synchronized aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat (timings vary seasonally, roughly 6:30–7:30 pm).

Night: Dinner at Varuna (Taj Ganges) for polished takes on Awadhi kebabs and dal; or Canton Royale (Hotel Surya) for fragrant biryanis and curries in a heritage setting. If you prefer local flavors, try Baati Chokha (Lahurabir) for smoky litti chokha, sattu parathas, and rustic thalis.
Day 2: Sunrise Boat, Kashi Vishwanath, and Silk Weavers
Morning: Glide along the river at dawn on the Varanasi Morning Boat Tour [RowBoat]. Watch bathers, students chanting, and fires dimming at Manikarnika. Dress warmly in winter.

Post-ride breakfast: Ram Bhandar (Chowk) for crisp kachori-sabzi and jalebi (go early; they sell out); or Aum Café (Assi) for dosas, smoothie bowls, and French press coffee.
Afternoon: Visit the Kashi Vishwanath Temple and its wide corridor. Expect security checks and lines; leave phones/cameras if needed and dress conservatively. Later, walk to Madanpura or Sarai Mohana to see Banarasi silk weaving—ask about zari work and the time it takes to weave a wedding sari.
Evening: Snack at Kashi Chaat Bhandar (Godowlia): try tamatar chaat, aloo tikki, and pani puri. Cap the night with a thick Blue Lassi in a clay cup (mango, pomegranate, or saffron) near Manikarnika—find a quiet corner and watch the world drift by.
Day 3: Sarnath and the Buddha’s First Sermon
Morning: Drive 30–40 minutes to Sarnath, where the Buddha first taught after enlightenment. Walk the Dhamek Stupa, Mulagandha Kuti Vihara, and monastic ruins; visit the Archaeological Museum (expect a modest entry fee) to see the exquisite Ashokan capital.
Afternoon: Return to town for lunch at Open Hand Café (Assi) for espresso, shakshuka, salads, and a quiet courtyard. Pop into the Bharat Kala Bhavan (BHU) to browse sculpture, textiles, and miniature paintings—an underrated, air-conditioned gem.
Evening: Sunset stroll from Kedar Ghat to Darbhanga Ghat, when the light slants golden against sandstone palaces. For dinner, head to Dosa Café (near Assi) for crisp masala dosas, uttapams, and filter coffee; or the riverside restaurants around Assi for a relaxed night.
Day 4: Ramnagar Fort, River Views, and Classical Notes
Morning: Cross the bridge to Ramnagar Fort (allow 30–45 minutes each way). Explore the quirky Royal Museum—old cars, palanquins, and vintage weaponry—and gaze back across the Ganges at a postcard-perfect Varanasi skyline.
Afternoon: Lunch at Café De Coop (Assi side) for sandwiches and cold coffee, then browse bookshops around BHU. If textiles tempt you, look for reputable silk emporiums near Godowlia; ask to see cutwork, jangla, or kadhua techniques.
Evening: If you didn’t attend the main Dashashwamedh Aarti on Day 1, watch the gentler Subah-e-Banaras style performances at Assi Ghat near sunset. For a refined nightcap, try the bar at Taj Ganges (classic cocktails) or Sol Bar at the Radisson.
Day 5: Hidden Alleys, Temples, and a Street Food Crawl
Morning: Wander the old-city lanes—Thatheri Bazaar, Kunj Gali, and Bengali Tola—peeking into tiny shrines and spice shops. Pause at Shri Durga Kund Temple and the nearby pond’s red reflection. Breakfast at Ksheer Sagar (jalebi, rabri, and stuffed kachori) or Open Hand Café for lighter fare.
Afternoon: Explore lesser-visited ghats like Assi, Rewa, and Chet Singh; look for wrestlers training at an akhara. Coffee break at Aum Café or Vaatika-style bakeries near Assi for apple pie or lemon cake equivalents—sweet fuel for more walking.
Evening: Join the Varanasi Street Food Crawl (2 Hours Guided Food Tasting Tour). Expect melt-in-mouth malaiyyo in winter, spicy chaat, tikki, and paan—learn how vendors balance sweet, sour, and crunch.

Day 6: Day Trip to Prayagraj’s Triveni Sangam
Take a sacred day out with the Day Trip from Varanasi to Triveni Sangam: A Sacred Day in Prayag—about 2.5–3 hours one-way by road. At the Sangam, see the confluence of the Ganga, Yamuna, and the mythical Saraswati; a short boat ride shows the shifting color lines where waters meet.

Back in Varanasi, unwind with dinner at Canton Royale or go rustic again at Baati Chokha. If you have energy, a quiet post-dinner stroll along Assi Ghat is serene.
Day 7: Last Sunrise, Souvenirs, and Farewell
Morning: One more dawn by the river—either a contemplative sit at Assi Ghat or a short self-arranged rowboat (negotiate ~₹200–500 per person; insist on life jackets). Breakfast at Brown Bread Bakery (near Dashashwamedh) for omelets, croissants, and rooftop views.
Afternoon (Departure): Pick up final souvenirs: silk scarves, wooden toys, brass diyas, or a small statue of Nandi. Head to the airport/rail station—taxis to VNS typically take 45–60 minutes depending on traffic. Compare any last-minute changes on Trip.com Flights or trains via Trip.com Trains.
Optional Add-Ons and Tips
- Photography: Go early to Kedar and Rana Mahal Ghats for soft light and reflections. Always ask before close‑ups; never photograph cremations.
- Wellness: Try a dawn yoga session along the ghats or book a spa treatment at Taj Ganges.
- Boats & Taxis: Licensed boats should carry life jackets; short tuk‑tuk rides run ~₹100–200—agree on price before starting.
- Festival timing: Dev Deepawali (two weeks after Diwali) lights every ghat—magnificent but very crowded; book rooms months ahead.
Another worthy experience if you have extra time: the sunset-focused Ganga Aarti Tour (even if you went once, the river is never the same twice!).
In seven days, you’ll have traced the arc of Varanasi—from first light on the Ganges to lamps floating downstream at dusk, from Buddha’s Sarnath to the clack of silk looms. You’ll leave with stories woven from incense, oars, and temple bells—memories that linger like a raga at day’s end.

