7 Days in Uttar Pradesh: Varanasi’s Sacred Ghats and Lucknow’s Nawabi Heritage
Welcome to Uttar Pradesh, a state where living traditions and folklore brush shoulders with deep history. From village tales whispered under ancient banyan trees to the clang of temple bells at dawn, this is India at its most storied. Over seven days, you’ll trace the Ganges in Varanasi and the Nawabi grandeur of Lucknow.
Varanasi—often called the world’s oldest living city—pairs meditative sunrise boat rides with maze-like lanes, silk workshops, and the electrifying Ganga Aarti. A short hop away, Sarnath marks the cradle of Buddhism where the Buddha gave his first sermon. Lucknow changes the tempo: it’s all graceful gateways, domes, chikankari embroidery, and a legendary cuisine perfected in royal kitchens.
Practical notes: October–March brings the most pleasant weather; summers run hot. Dress modestly for temples and always ask before photographing rituals. Trains and flights connect major cities; UPI and cards are widely accepted, but carry small cash for boats, snacks, and tips.
Varanasi
Spiritual, sensory, timeless—Varanasi lives on its ghats. Mornings unfold with saffron skies and oars on the Ganges; evenings glow with lamps, chants, and conch shells at the Ganga Aarti. Between, you’ll slip into workshops where Banarasi silk shimmers from handlooms.
- Top sights: Sunrise/sunset boat rides, Dashashwamedh and Assi Ghats, Kashi Vishwanath Temple & Corridor, Sarnath (Dhamek Stupa, Museum), Ramnagar Fort, and the weaving lanes of Madanpura.
- Local flavor: Kachori-sabzi breakfasts, thandai, malaiyo (winter delicacy), chaats at Kashi Chaat Bhandar, Blue Lassi Shop’s fruit lassi, and rustic baati chokha.
- Fun fact: Many rites of passage—from daily ablutions to final farewells—center on the river here, shaping an uninterrupted ritual calendar for centuries.
Where to stay: Browse stays near the ghats or in Cantonment for calmer nights: VRBO – Varanasi | Hotels.com – Varanasi
Getting there: Fly into Varanasi (VNS) from major Indian hubs. Compare fares on Trip.com Flights or Kiwi.com. Comfortable trains also run from Delhi/Kolkata (8–12 hours; AC chair/sleeper available)—check Trip.com Trains.
Day 1: Arrival, First Glimpse of the Ghats
Afternoon: Arrive in Varanasi and check in. Ease into the city with a slow walk from Assi Ghat toward Dashashwamedh, pausing for chai at riverside stalls and peeking into small temples along the way.
Evening: Attend the Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat (arrive 45–60 minutes early for good views; donations appreciated). Dinner nearby at Kashi Chaat Bhandar (try tamatar chaat, palak chaat). Post-dinner, sip a thick mango or pomegranate lassi at Blue Lassi Shop.
Day 2: Sunrise Boat, Kashi Vishwanath & Silk Lanes
Morning: Sunrise boat ride (shared ~INR 200–400 pp; private ~INR 1,000–2,000). Watch the ghats wake, then walk to the Kashi Vishwanath Temple & Corridor (carry light, no leather items; deposit phones if required). Breakfast at Aum Café (Assi Ghat) for masala omelets, dosas, and strong coffee.
Afternoon: Explore the weaving neighborhoods of Madanpura to see Banarasi silk on handlooms; visit a cooperative showroom to understand motifs and zari work. Lunch at Baati Chokha (smoky chokha, ghee-soaked baati, litti).
Evening: Golden-hour promenade along Manikarnika–Scindia–Kedar ghats (observe cremation ghats respectfully, no photos). Dinner at Shree Annapurna (south Indian thalis) or riverside Pizzeria Vaatika Café for thin-crust pizza and apple pie with a Ganga view.
Day 3: Sarnath and Ramnagar Fort
Morning: 20–30 min drive to Sarnath. See the Dhamek Stupa, the ruins of monasteries, and the excellent Sarnath Museum (home to the lion capital of Ashoka; check photography rules). Reflect in the gardens and modern temples built by Buddhist nations.
Afternoon: Return to Varanasi for lunch at Brown Bread Bakery (fresh breads, salads, rooftop views). Rest during the hottest hours, then cross the bridge to Ramnagar Fort (quirky museum of palanquins, vintage cars; sunset on the riverbank is a highlight).
Evening: Try a casual street-food circuit near Godowlia: aloo tikki, pani puri, and rabri. If you prefer seated dining, head back to Baati Chokha or opt for vegetarian North Indian at Hori Lal Paan Bhandar area’s small eateries, finishing with a classic paan.
Day 4: Chunar Fort and Folklore
Morning: Day trip to Chunar Fort (approx. 1.5 hours by road; arrange a car via your hotel). Perched over the Ganges bend, this sandstone fort is steeped in legends and offers commanding river views. Explore bastions, cannons, and old cells that fuel local ghost stories.
Afternoon: Simple lunch at a clean highway dhaba—order dal tadka, jeera aloo, and tandoori rotis. Return to Varanasi and browse Vishwanath Gali for brassware, rudraksha beads, and silk scarves (bargain gently).
Evening: For a musical note, look for an evening classical recital at a ghat-side venue (your hotel can advise on current programs). Dinner at Dosa Café (Bengali Tola) for crisp dosas and filter coffee, or go back to Kashi Chaat Bhandar if you crave a repeat.
Lucknow
Graceful and genteel, Lucknow is the “City of Nawabs,” famed for refined etiquette, poetry, and a cuisine that slow-cooks flavor into legend. Its skyline mixes domes and gateways with shaded gardens and broad avenues along the Gomti River.
- Top sights: Bara Imambara & Bhool Bhulaiya, Rumi Darwaza, Chota Imambara, Husainabad Clock Tower, British Residency, La Martiniere College, and the Gomti Riverfront.
- Must-eats: Galouti and seekh kebabs, nihari with sheermal, basket chaat, korma, and creamy kulfi. Food legends like Tunday, Raheem’s, and Royal Café still set benchmarks.
- Fun fact: The labyrinth (Bhool Bhulaiya) inside Bara Imambara is a maze of narrow corridors and staircases—a playful lesson in Mughal-era acoustics and design.
Where to stay: Consider central Hazratganj or Gomti Nagar for easy sightseeing: VRBO – Lucknow | Hotels.com – Lucknow
Getting there from Varanasi (Day 5 morning): The fast train takes ~5.5–6 hours (AC Chair Car ~INR 700–1,500). Check Trip.com Trains. Direct flights take ~55 minutes (often INR 3,000–6,500 / USD ~35–80)—see Trip.com Flights or Kiwi.com. For arrivals/departures to/from other cities, use the same links.
Day 5: Transfer to Lucknow, Hazratganj Stroll, Residency
Morning: Depart Varanasi for Lucknow by train (aim for an early departure). Bring snacks and water; window seats reveal rural Uttar Pradesh rolling by.
Afternoon: Check in, then wander Hazratganj’s arcades. Coffee and desserts at The Hazelnut Factory (THF)—their cold brew and signature pastries are beloved. Visit the British Residency for poignant 1857 history framed by leafy ruins.
Evening: Sunset along the Gomti Riverfront. Dinner at Oudhyana (classic Awadhi—galouti, kakori, qorma) or go casual at Tunday Kababi (Aminabad/Aliganj; melt-in-mouth galouti on warqi paratha). End at Prakash Kulfi for kesar-pista kulfi.
Day 6: Imambaras and Nawabi Icons
Morning: Explore Bara Imambara and the Bhool Bhulaiya (take a local guide to appreciate the engineering). Walk through Rumi Darwaza to the Husainabad Clock Tower and pause at nearby stepwells and fountains.
Afternoon: Lunch at Raheem’s (nihari kulcha) or Mubeen’s (pasanda, sheermal). Continue to Chota Imambara with its chandeliers and Persian-influenced decor. If time allows, admire the Indo-European flourish of La Martiniere College (Constantia).
Evening: Snack stop at Royal Café (the original “basket chaat” with crisp-fried potato shell). Dinner at Falaknuma Rooftop (Clarks Avadh) for kebabs and kormas under the skyline; try their signature Awadhi biryani and end with shahi tukda.
Day 7: Chowk Markets, Chikankari, and Farewell
Morning: Early breakfast at Sharma Ji Ki Chai (masala chai, bun-maska, samosa) before diving into Chowk for chikankari kurtas, ittar (attars), and metalware. Coffee break at Roastery Coffee House (Gomti Nagar) for single-origin pours.
Afternoon: Lunch at Dastarkhwan (gilafi seekh, mutton korma, roomali rotis). Return to your hotel, pack, and transfer to the airport or station. Check Trip.com Flights or Trip.com Trains for afternoon departures.
Evening: If your schedule allows, one last stroll in Hazratganj for souvenirs—boxed kebabs, attars, or chikankari scarves make thoughtful gifts.
Estimated Costs (per person, typical ranges): Shared Varanasi boat INR 200–400; private boat INR 1,000–2,000; Sarnath Museum ticket modest fee; intercity train INR 700–1,500 (AC Chair); flight Varanasi–Lucknow INR 3,000–6,500. Meals range from INR 150 for street snacks to INR 1,200+ at upscale restaurants.
Insider tips: For temples, carry a light scarf and small notes for lockers and offerings. In markets, start bargaining at ~60–70% of the initial quote. For food tours, go early evening when stalls are freshest and crowds thinner.
From the river rituals of Varanasi to Lucknow’s poetic palaces and platefuls, this itinerary threads sacred spaces, artisan skills, and unforgettable flavors. You’ll leave with stories as enduring as the banyan legends—and a palate tuned to Awadhi finesse. Safe travels and shubh yatra!
