7 Days in Thessaloniki (Θεσσαλονίκη): Byzantine Splendor, Seafront Strolls, and Northern Greek Flavor
Thessaloniki, Greece’s storied “co-capital,” has watched empires pass for 2,300 years—from Romans and Byzantines to Ottomans and modern Greeks. The city spills along the Thermaic Gulf in a long, breezy arc, where students, artists, and entrepreneurs keep the cafés humming from morning koulouri to late-night tsipouro.
Its UNESCO-listed Paleochristian and Byzantine monuments dot everyday neighborhoods: domed churches with glittering mosaics, fortress walls crowning the Upper Town, and the Roman-era Rotunda anchoring the city’s spine. Markets—Modiano and Kapani—thrum with spice, cheeses, seafood, and the aromas of bougatsa, while Ladadika’s cobbled lanes pulse with meze and music.
Practical notes: Thessaloniki is walkable, with frequent buses and an airport bus linking SKG to downtown. Trains and buses connect Athens in 4–7 hours; excellent day trips reach Pella and Vergina’s royal tombs, Dion’s ancient city, and the foothills of Mount Olympus. Come hungry for soutzoukakia, fresh seafood, Cretan plates, trigona panoramatos, and glossy chocolate tsoureki.
Thessaloniki (Θεσσαλονίκη)
Greece’s culinary capital is a city of layers. You’ll thread from seaside promenades and the White Tower to spice-scented bazaars, then uphill to stone alleys in Ano Poli for sunset over the gulf.
- Top sights: White Tower, Archaeological Museum, Museum of Byzantine Culture, Rotunda & Arch of Galerius, Agios Dimitrios, Roman Forum, Ano Poli walls & Eptapyrgio, Vlatadon Monastery, Modiano & Kapani Markets, Jewish Museum.
- Neighborhoods to know: Ladadika (meze and nightlife), Aristotelous Square & Tsimiski (shopping), Ano Poli (views, old houses), Waterfront/Nea Paralia (sunsets, bike path).
- Fun flavors: Bougatsa (try cream or cheese), tsoureki from Terkenlis, trigona panoramatos from Elenidis, ouzeris for meze and seafood.
Where to stay (areas + booking): For postcard views and easy walking, base near Aristotelous Square or the Waterfront. Boutique lovers gravitate to Ladadika; romantics head uphill to Ano Poli’s stone lanes. Browse stays on VRBO or compare hotels on Hotels.com.
- Elegant classics: Electra Palace (right on Aristotelous), ON Residence (revived Olympos Naoussa brasserie), Makedonia Palace (seafront sunsets).
- Boutique picks: The Modernist (design-forward), Antigon Urban Chic (SLH style), Bahar Boutique (Ladadika), Colors Urban Hotel (playful, central).
- Value: Blue Bottle Boutique (clean, modern), The Met (design, rooftop pool near port), Stay Hybrid (budget social hub).
Getting to Thessaloniki (SKG): From European hubs, fly into SKG; compare fares on Omio (flights in Europe). From outside Europe, search long-haul options via Trip.com (flights) or Kiwi.com. From Athens, the InterCity train takes ~4–4.5 hours (typical €25–60); check schedules on Omio (trains in Europe). Intercity buses run ~6–7 hours (about €30–40); search on Omio (buses in Europe).
Airport to center: Bus 01X/01N runs ~45–60 minutes to Aristotelous (about €2). Taxis take ~30–40 minutes (roughly €25–30 by day).
Day 1: Arrival, First Walk by the Water, and Ladadika Flavors
Morning: Travel to Thessaloniki. If you’re arriving from Europe, check flight options on Omio; intercity trains are on Omio (trains). Settle into your hotel and freshen up.
Afternoon: Start with a gentle seaside stroll from Aristotelous Square toward the White Tower. Pause for an iced freddo at TOMS Flagship on Tsimiski (great courtyard) or Ypsilon (arty vibe) and try a street-side koulouri from one of the sesame-ring vendors.
Evening: Dive into Ladadika. For a meze feast, book Full tou Meze (octopus, fava, fried gavros) or Loupino (creative Greek with a wood-and-brick setting). Cap the night with a 30–45 minute cruise on one of the traditional “boat bars”—the ride is free with a drink (about €6–9); or slip into Vogatsikou 3 for classic cocktails. Dessert: hot, made-to-order profiteroles at Choureal or a praline-stuffed tsoureki from Terkenlis.
Day 2: Museums, Monuments, and the Galerian Axis
Morning: Breakfast at Estrella—famous for the playful “bougatsan” (bougatsa-croissant hybrid)—or try a classic cream bougatsa at Bantis. Visit the Archaeological Museum (prehistoric Macedonia, gold diadems) and the Museum of Byzantine Culture (sublime icons and textiles). Expect €6–8 per museum or about €15 for combined admission when available.
Afternoon: Walk the Galerian Complex: the Arch (Kamara), the Rotunda (4th-century mausoleum-turned-church), and nearby mosaics. Continue to Agios Dimitrios—Thessaloniki’s patron saint—then explore the crypt. Lunch nearby at Ergon Agora (market-hall energy; sardines, Cretan dakos, local cheeses) or Extravaganza (seasonal bistro plates).
Evening: Dine at Charoupi (excellent Cretan cuisine—wild greens pies, slow-cooked goat, apaki) or Glykanissos (meze with a modern touch and anise-kissed ouzo pairings). Drinks: The Bar Testament in Valaoritou mixes inventive cocktails; for wine, try a bar pouring Xinomavro and Assyrtiko by the glass.
Day 3: Markets, Street Bites, and the Waterfront Gardens
Morning: Coffee and a sesame koulouri at Koulouradiko, then plunge into Kapani and Modiano Markets. Sample olives, graviera cheese, pastourma, and fresh bougatsa; browse spice stalls for mahlepi and sumac. If you love hands-on experiences, many local chefs offer market-to-table classes (expect ~3–4 hours, €60–100).
Afternoon: Lunch inside the renovated Modiano food hall—choose from seafood counters to grill plates—or opt for a seated seafood lunch at 7 Thalasses (get the raw bar or grilled calamari). Walk the Nea Paralia’s themed gardens to the “Umbrellas” sculpture; rent bikes or just chase the sea breeze.
Evening: Pre-dinner ouzo and meze at Ouzeri Agora or To Elliniko (ask for marinated anchovies and tomato-caper salads). For dinner, Grada Nuevo does refined seafood and steak, while Sebriko Greek Gourmet leans farm-to-table with Macedonian products. Nightlife options include Gorilla (music-forward cocktails) or La Doze (DJ sets and gallery vibes).
Day 4: Day Trip to Pella & Vergina (Aigai) + Naoussa Wine
Morning: Pick up a rental car (typical €40–60/day) or join a guided day tour. Drive ~45 minutes to Pella, capital of ancient Macedonia and birthplace of Alexander the Great. Explore the site’s elegant pebble mosaics and the modern museum’s jewelry, figurines, and quotidian finds.
Afternoon: Continue ~1 hour to Vergina (Aigai). The underground museum built into the Great Tumulus is a showstopper—royal tombs (attributed to Philip II), weapons, armor, and lacy gold wreaths glowing in low light. On the way back, detour to Naoussa wine country for a tasting of Xinomavro (think Nebbiolo-like structure) at a local estate; many offer 60–90 minute tastings (~€10–20).
Evening: Return to Thessaloniki (~1–1.5 hours). Keep dinner simple with a plate of soutzoukakia (spiced meatballs in tomato sauce) at Diagonios or classic fried cod with garlic skordalia at Mpakaliarakia tis Aristotelous. Nightcap: a mellow tsipouro bar near Athonos Square.
Day 5: Ano Poli Views, Ottoman Echoes, and Jewish Heritage
Morning: Grab a trigono panoramatos (crisp phyllo triangle filled with cream) at Elenidis, then head uphill to Ano Poli. Walk the old walls to Trigonion Tower for panoramic views; visit Vlatadon Monastery (peacocks often roam the courtyard). The stone lanes and color-washed houses feel like another century.
Afternoon: Lunch at Tsinari—an old-school ouzeri with vine-shaded tables—ordering stuffed vine leaves, grilled meats, and salads. Stroll down to the Roman Forum (Agora) and then the Jewish Museum of Thessaloniki to learn about the once-majority Sephardic community and the city’s wartime losses.
Evening: Explore Bit Bazaar’s bohemian square for budget-friendly meze and live rembetiko on some nights. Alternatively, book a table at Ladi & Rigani for souvlaki or at Opsopoion Magirio for homey casseroles. For cocktails with a view, try a rooftop bar near Aristotelous Square.
Day 6: Mount Olympus & Dion Archaeological Park
Morning: Drive ~1–1.25 hours to Dion at the foot of Mount Olympus. Wander the lush archaeological park: sanctuaries drenched in springs, Roman villas with mosaics, and a fine museum (don’t miss the hydrauli—ancient hydraulic organ). Continue to Litochoro, a mountain town with slate roofs and cafés.
Afternoon: Take an easy hike in the Enipeas Gorge from Prionia or the lower trails (choose a 1–3 hour out-and-back). Reward yourself with a Macedonian lunch in Litochoro—grilled meats, horta (wild greens), and village sausages—then drive back to the city.
Evening: Back in Thessaloniki, keep it seafood-light after a big day: try Agioli by the sea for shrimp saganaki and salads, or Neratzi for mezze and local wines. If you’re a beer fan, taxi to The Hoppy Pub for one of Greece’s best craft beer lists.
Day 7: Slow Brunch, Last Bites, and Departure
Morning: Brunch at The Garden Bar or Ypsilon—order strapatsada (tomato-scrambled eggs) or a sesame simit with cream cheese and herbs. Pick up edible souvenirs on Tsimiski and in Modiano: olive oil, honey, halva, and jars of spoon sweets. If time allows, step into the White Tower museum for its city-through-the-ages exhibits and rooftop panorama.
Afternoon: Final coffee along the promenade before heading to SKG. The 01X airport bus runs every 20–30 minutes (about €2; ~45–60 minutes); taxis average €25–30. For flights within Europe, check Omio; for long-haul connections use Trip.com or Kiwi.com.
Evening: Departure.
Seasonal and practical tips: Spring and fall are ideal; summer is lively but warm and busy. Most museums offer reduced winter rates. Thessaloniki’s café culture runs all day; reservations help on Friday–Sunday nights in Ladadika and popular meze spots.
In one week, you’ll have traced Thessaloniki from Roman stones to Byzantine domes and Ottoman courtyards, tasted your way through markets and meze halls, and stood where Macedonian kings slept and Mount Olympus meets the sea. Expect to leave with a full camera roll, a deeper sense of Greek history, and plans to return for another long seaside walk.

