The Outer Hebrides—also called the Western Isles—arc along Scotland’s Atlantic edge, a chain of wind-brushed machair meadows, silver beaches, and peat-dark lochs. Human stories run deep here: Neolithic stone circles, Iron Age brochs, Viking place names, and crofting traditions still shape daily life. Gaelic is widely heard, and the islands’ famous Harris Tweed is the only fabric in the world protected by an Act of Parliament.

This 7-day itinerary focuses on two bases: Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis (giving you Lewis & Harris), and Benbecula in the Uists (for North and South Uist, with an optional hop to Barra). You’ll balance iconic sights—Callanish Standing Stones, Luskentyre Bay—with local gems, wildlife reserves, and hearty Hebridean fare from scallops to the celebrated Stornoway black pudding.

Practical notes: book ferries and popular restaurants ahead, especially May–September. Weather can change swiftly—pack layers and waterproofs year-round. Driving is straightforward, but expect single-track roads with passing places; let faster vehicles by and wave your thanks. Midges can appear on still summer evenings—carry repellent.

Stornoway

Stornoway is the cultural and practical hub of Lewis & Harris, with a lively harbour, the handsome Lews Castle, and the island’s best concentration of dining. It’s your launchpad to the Callanish Standing Stones, Carloway Broch, and the sweeping beaches of Harris.

• Top sights nearby: Callanish Standing Stones, Gearrannan Blackhouse Village, Carloway Broch, Butt of Lewis lighthouse, Luskentyre and Seilebost beaches (Harris), Isle of Harris Distillery (Tarbert).
• Food & drink: Fresh langoustines, razor clams, and scallops; PGI-protected Stornoway black pudding; café culture at An Lanntair and the Lews Castle café.
• Stay: Search island hotels and self-catering near Stornoway on Hotels.com or browse cottages via VRBO. In-town picks include the Royal Hotel (harbour views), Cabarfeidh Hotel (quiet, parking), and comfy B&Bs; for self-catering, consider a coastal croft house on the west side of Lewis or around Northton/Harris if you prefer beach proximity.
• Getting there: Direct flights to Stornoway from Glasgow (~55 min), Edinburgh (~1 hr), and Inverness (~40 min) often run £60–£150 one-way in peak months—compare on Omio (flights). The Ullapool–Stornoway ferry takes ~2 hr 45 min; expect ~£20–£25 per foot passenger, £100–£140 for a car + driver—check sailings and book ahead via Omio (ferries).

Benbecula

Benbecula sits between North and South Uist, connected by causeways. It makes an ideal base for beachcombing on endless sands, birdwatching at Balranald RSPB, tracing prehistoric stone circles, and day-tripping to Eriskay or even Barra’s legendary beach runway.

• Top sights nearby: Balranald RSPB Reserve (corncrakes in summer, otters year-round), West Beach (Berneray), Pobull Fhinn stone circle, Trinity Temple (Teampull na Trionaid), Prince’s Beach on Eriskay, Kildonan Museum (South Uist).
• Food & drink: Smoky treats from Hebridean Smokehouse (North Uist), shellfish from local boats, hearty pub meals at the Westford Inn and Dark Island Hotel.
• Stay: Find hotels and guesthouses on Hotels.com or self-catering on VRBO. Look for sea-view lodges near Culla Bay, or convenience near Balivanich if you’ll fly in/out.
• Onward travel: Ferries link Berneray–Leverburgh (to Harris) and Eriskay–Barra (both ~40–65 min). Browse options via Omio (ferries). Benbecula Airport has flights to Glasgow (~1 hr 5 min; often £70–£160 one-way)—compare on Omio. For mainland connections, Lochmaddy–Uig (Skye) is ~1 hr 45 min; onward buses/trains can be checked on Omio (trains) and Omio (buses).

Day 1 — Arrive Stornoway, castle walks and harbour supper

Afternoon: Land in Stornoway and settle into your hotel or cottage. Stretch your legs in the grounds of Lews Castle, a Victorian baronial landmark, and pop into the Museum nan Eilean galleries to meet the Norse-era Lewis Chessmen (replicas on display; the story is captivating). Coffee and cakes at the Storehouse Café inside the castle are a gentle jet-lag cure.

Evening: Stroll the harbourfront to An Lanntair arts centre for a quick look at local exhibitions, then dine at Digby Chick—known for island seafood like pan-seared scallops or monkfish with Hebridean seaweed. Prefer casual? HS-1 Café Bar in the Royal Hotel serves excellent burgers and Stornoway black pudding salad. Nightcap at The Crown’s cosy bar with local ales.

Day 2 — The ancient west of Lewis: Callanish, Carloway, and Atlantic beaches

Morning: Coffee at Blue Lobster (espresso, local art), then drive ~30–35 min to the Callanish Standing Stones, erected c. 3000–2900 BCE. Walk the main circle and the smaller Callanish II and III nearby; the visitor centre café is handy for scones if you linger. Continue 10 min to Carloway Broch, a remarkably preserved Iron Age drystone tower.

Afternoon: Head to Gearrannan Blackhouse Village to see thatched croft houses and weaving displays; the café’s soup-and-bannock lunch hits the spot (seasonal hours). Swing by cliff-backed Dalmore or Dalbeg beaches for surf and big horizons. If archaeology calls, detour to the thatched Arnol Blackhouse for a peek into croft life of generations past.

Evening: Back in Stornoway, book the Harbour Kitchen for fish-and-chips elevated by day-boat catches, or try the Royal Hotel’s Boatshed Restaurant for local lamb. If skies are clear, a late drive to the Butt of Lewis lighthouse (about 45–50 min) rewards with roaring seas and glowing sunsets in summer.

Day 3 — Harris day: Luskentyre sands, tweed sheds, and the Golden Road

Morning: Drive an hour south to Harris via the dramatic North Harris hills. Refuel at Hebscape Distillery & Coffee Roastery (small-batch beans; views across West Loch Tarbert). Continue to Luskentyre and Seilebost beaches—turquoise shallows, endless sand, and mountains across the water. Keep an eye out for signage reading “Weaver at Work”; many islanders weave Harris Tweed at home—step in respectfully for a demonstration and to pick up a scarf direct from the loom.

Afternoon: For lunch, try Croft 36 in Northton (seasonal hut; crab rolls and home baking; arrive early), or the Pierhouse Restaurant in Tarbert (Hotel Hebrides) for sit-down seafood. Drive the winding Golden Road on Harris’s east coast through tiny, rock-scattered townships to Rodel and visit 16th-century St Clement’s Church (check current access times). The contrast between lunar-like east and beachy west Harris is striking.

Evening: Celebrate the day with dinner at Scarista House (seasonal; refined set menus championing local ingredients—book well ahead) or return to Tarbert for bistro classics. If you enjoy a tipple, the Isle of Harris Distillery in Tarbert runs tastings by day; grab a bottle of its maritime gin to enjoy later under Hebridean stars.

Day 4 — Optional full-day boat to St Kilda (weather permitting)

This is a long, spectacular day (10–12 hours) by fast boat from Leverburgh (Harris) to the UNESCO-listed St Kilda archipelago. Expect sea cliffs among the highest in Europe, tens of thousands of seabirds (gannets, puffins in season), and a shore landing on Hirta to wander the haunting street of abandoned blackhouses. Motion can be lively—bring layers, waterproofs, and seasickness remedies. If conditions or schedules don’t align, substitute a Harris hiking day: climb Ceapabhal above Northton for panoramic beach views, then laze at Horgabost with a late picnic.

Day 5 — Transfer to the Uists: Leverburgh–Berneray ferry, Berneray sands, and Balranald

Morning: Depart Stornoway after breakfast (aim for ~08:30). Drive ~2 hr to Leverburgh at Harris’s south end. Grab a hot roll or fish butty from the Butty Bus by the pier if it’s open. The Leverburgh–Berneray ferry sails ~1 hr–1 hr 10 min; foot passengers typically ~£10–£15, cars ~£40–£60. Advance booking is strongly advised in summer—compare/plan on Omio (ferries).

Afternoon: Land on Berneray and walk its astonishing West Beach—three miles of shell sand and machair. Lunch at Ardmaree Stores & Lobster Pot (simple, fresh; seasonal hours). Continue 40–50 min to Balranald RSPB Reserve (North Uist) for an easy coastal loop where you may hear corncrakes (May–July), see short-eared owls, and watch for otters along the shore.

Evening: Check into Benbecula. For dinner, the Westford Inn (North Uist) is a beloved pub for local ales and seafood chowder; closer to base, Stepping Stone (Benbecula) serves hearty plates with friendly service. End at Culla Bay with a pink-and-gold sunset if the weather plays nice.

Day 6 — North & South Uist: stones, stories, and white-sand arcs

Morning: Start with pastries at MacLean’s Bakery (Benbecula institution), then drive 25 min to Taigh Chearsabhagh Museum & Arts Centre in Lochmaddy for contemporary island art and a waterside café coffee. Nearby, stroll up to the atmospheric Pobull Fhinn stone circle—an oval ring overlooking Loch Langass—then visit the medieval Trinity Temple (Teampull na Trionaid) at Carinish.

Afternoon: Lunch at the Grimsay community café at Ceann na h-Àirigh (check hours; simple soups, bakes). Continue south to the Kildonan Museum for Uist history and Gaelic culture, then wander the vast West Beach at Askernish or the causeway to Eriskay, where wild Eriskay ponies still graze.

Evening: Have a pint at Am Politician on Eriskay, named after the shipwreck made famous in “Whisky Galore”, before returning to Benbecula for dinner at the Dark Island Hotel (classics and local seafood). On clear nights, step outside—light pollution is low and the Milky Way can be dazzling.

Day 7 — Optional Barra hop or easy Benbecula morning, then depart

Morning (Option A—Barra day trip): Early drive (~45 min) to Eriskay for the ferry to Barra (~40 min; foot ~£6–£8, cars ~£20–£30). On Barra, time your visit to see planes land on the tidal sands at Traigh Mhòr—the world’s only scheduled beach runway (check flight times locally). Explore Castlebay and view Kisimul Castle from shore (access varies due to conservation). Lunch at Café Kisimul for Indo-Scottish seafood curries, then return via ferry for your afternoon departure.

Morning (Option B—Benbecula & easy Uist finish): Kayak or paddleboard the calm lagoons (local outfitters operate in season), or take a gentle walk around Loch Druidibeag looking for red deer and golden eagles. Brunch back in Balivanich.

Afternoon departure: Fly from Benbecula to Glasgow (~1 hr 5 min; often £70–£160—check Omio (flights)) or ferry from Lochmaddy to Uig on Skye (~1 hr 45 min; plan via Omio (ferries)), then onward buses/trains on Omio (trains) and Omio (buses). Always build in buffer time for weather-related changes.

Where to eat and drink (quick picks)

• Breakfast/coffee: Storehouse Café (Lews Castle), Blue Lobster (Stornoway), Hebscape Coffee Roastery (Harris), Taigh Chearsabhagh Café (North Uist), MacLean’s Bakery (Benbecula).
• Lunch: Uig Sands Restaurant (Lewis, sea views), Gearrannan café (seasonal), Croft 36 (Harris, seasonal), Ardmaree Stores & Lobster Pot (Berneray), Ceann na h-Àirigh community café (Grimsay), Butty Bus (Leverburgh, ferry-side).
• Dinner: Digby Chick, Harbour Kitchen, HS-1 Café Bar (Stornoway); Pierhouse Restaurant (Tarbert); Scarista House (Harris, book ahead); Westford Inn (North Uist); Stepping Stone and Dark Island Hotel (Benbecula); Café Kisimul (Barra).

Logistics & tips

• Car hire: Recommended for flexibility; book early in peak season.
• Ferries: Routes used in this itinerary—Ullapool–Stornoway, Leverburgh–Berneray, Eriskay–Barra, and Lochmaddy–Uig. Compare and plan with Omio (ferries) and leave extra time when connecting to flights.
• Seasonality: Some cafés/attractions are seasonal; always check hours locally, especially October–April.
• Etiquette: On single-track roads, use passing places; let locals and buses by. Leave gates as you found them, and keep dogs leashed near livestock.

In one week you’ll have traced the islands’ ancient stones, tasted the sea on your plate, and walked beaches that seem to fold into infinity. From Lewis and Harris down to the Uists—and perhaps a flirtation with Barra—you’ll carry home the sound of Gaelic, the tang of Atlantic air, and a strong urge to return.