7 Days in the Dolomites: An Adventurous Guide to Cortina d’Ampezzo and Val Gardena
The Dolomites—UNESCO-listed since 2009—rise like a cathedral of pale limestone, shifting from rose to gold at sunset in an alpine light show locals call Enrosadira. These mountains were once WWI front lines; tunnels and trenches still lace the ridges above Cortina and Lagazuoi, offering both sobering history and staggering views.
Beyond the spires lie flowered meadows, larch forests, and pastures where Ladin traditions endure. Expect menus with casunziei all’ampezzana (beet ravioli), canederli (bread dumplings), game stews, and apple strudel—hearty fuel for long days out. Summer (late June–September) brings open lifts and prime hiking; winter transforms the region into Dolomiti Superski terrain.
Practical notes: weather shifts quickly; pack layers, rain shell, and sun protection. Popular spots like Tre Cime and Lago di Braies now require reservations or shuttles in peak season. A mid-range budget goes far with apartment stays, rifugio lunches, and the Dolomiti Supersummer points card for lifts.
Cortina d’Ampezzo
Cortina sits in a vast amphitheater of rock—Tofana, Cristallo, and the Ampezzo Dolomites—an elegant mountain town that hosted the 1956 Winter Olympics and co-hosts the 2026 games. It’s the ideal base for Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Cinque Torri, and Lagazuoi’s WWI tunnels.
- Top sights & trails: Tre Cime loop, Cadini di Misurina viewpoint, Cinque Torri open-air WWI museum, Lagazuoi cable car and tunnels, Passo Giau panoramas.
- Adventure: Via ferrata options from beginner (Ra Bujela) to famous classics (Ivano Dibona). Gear rental and guides are easy to arrange in town.
- Food & drink: Expect speck boards, polenta with venison, and mountain pastries. Aperitivo is an art on Corso Italia.
Stay (mid-range to apartment): Search Cortina options on VRBO or compare hotels on Hotels.com. Look near Corso Italia for walkability, or along the SR48 toward Passo Falzarego for quiet chalets and easy parking.
Getting in: Fly to Venice (VCE), Verona (VRN), Innsbruck (INN), or Milan (MXP/LIN). Check fares on Omio (flights). From Venice Mestre, the Cortina Express bus takes ~2h15–2h45 (about €30–40; book on Omio (buses)). Trains plus bus via Calalzo or Dobbiaco take ~3–4 hours—see Omio (trains).
Day 1: Arrive in Cortina, Settle In, and Sunset Stroll
Morning: Travel toward Cortina. If you arrive via Venice Mestre, buses run several times daily (~€30–40 on Omio). Drivers: allow ~2.5 hours from Venice, ~3 hours from Verona.
Afternoon: Check in and stretch your legs on the flat promenade along Boite Creek. Coffee and a krapfen at Bar Majoni on Piazza Angelo Dibona sets the tone. Pop into Enoteca Cortina to eye local Lagrein and Schiava labels for later.
Evening: Aperitivo on Corso Italia, then dinner at Il Vizietto di Cortina—order casunziei with poppy seeds and butter, then venison with polenta. For wood-fired pizza, Ristorante 5 Torri is a convivial alternative. Early night to bank energy.
Day 2: Tre Cime di Lavaredo Classic Loop (+ Cadini Viewpoint)
Morning: Go early to beat crowds. If driving, note the Auronzo toll road is from ~€30–45 per car in high season (reservations often required); otherwise shuttle buses run from Dobbiaco/Misurina (book via Omio). Grab espresso at Lago di Misurina kiosks, then start from Rifugio Auronzo.
Afternoon: Hike the loop: Auronzo → Forcella Lavaredo → Rifugio Locatelli/Dreizinnenhütte → Malga Langalm → back to Auronzo. About 10–11 km, 400 m gain, 3–4 hours plus photo stops. Lunch at Rifugio Locatelli: barley soup and apple strudel. Optional: the Cadini di Misurina spur (45–60 min return) for the famous blade-like ridges—mind the cliff edges.
Evening: Return to Cortina. Treat yourself at Baita Fraina: try canederli in broth, tagliatelle with wild mushrooms, and a glass of Teroldego. Nightcap at Bar Sport watching the passeggiata.
Day 3: Cinque Torri Trenches and Lagazuoi WWI Tunnels
Morning: Drive or bus to the Bai de Dones chairlift for Cinque Torri (15–20 min from town). Ride up to Rifugio Scoiattoli and wander the restored trenches and emplacements of the open-air museum. The loop paths are family-friendly with staggering views of the five-tower formation.
Afternoon: Continue to Passo Falzarego (5 minutes by car/bus) and ride the Lagazuoi cable car for a 360-degree panorama. Hike down through the WWI Lagazuoi tunnels (bring headlamps, sturdy shoes, gloves; wet steps). If not descending the tunnel, lunch at Rifugio Lagazuoi—try speck, cheese, and pickles board—then return by cable car.
Evening: Back in Cortina, dine at El Camineto for mountain comfort dishes with postcard views. Prefer informal? Pizzeria Ariston does blistered-edge pies and local beer on tap.
Day 4: Travel to Val Gardena via Passo Giau (Optional Lago di Braies at Sunrise)
Morning: Depart Cortina for Val Gardena. Drivers: take the scenic SR48–SP638 over Passo Giau, then through Alta Badia and over Passo Gardena to Selva/Ortisei (about 2–2.5 hours without stops). Bus combos via La Villa/Corvara typically take 3–3.5 hours (check Omio). Keen photographers can detour to Lago di Braies for sunrise; note summer traffic restrictions and morning parking reservations.
Afternoon: Check in around Ortisei or Selva. Stretch on the flat Luis Trenker Promenade above Ortisei—wooden bridges, sculptures, and views toward Seceda. Coffee and a slice of buckwheat cake at Café Demetz in Ortisei’s pedestrian center.
Evening: Aperitivo with a local Hugo (prosecco, elderflower, mint). Dinner at Tubladel in Ortisei—rustic wood-panelled stube known for grilled meats, porcini risotto, and South Tyrolean wines. Reserve ahead.
Val Gardena (Ortisei & Selva)
Val Gardena is Ladin heartland—a trio of villages (Ortisei, Santa Cristina, Selva) guarded by the crags of Seceda, Sassolungo, and Sella. It’s a dream base for balcony trails, high meadows, and lift-accessed ridge walks.
- Don’t miss: Seceda’s knife-edge ridgeline, Alpe di Siusi’s rolling pastures, Sella and Gardena passes, and the chairlift “coffin lift” up Forcella del Sassolungo.
- Local flavor: Try speckknödel, gerstensuppe (barley soup), Kaiserschmarrn, and mountain cheeses at historic huts.
- Guides & gear: The Catores Alpine School in Ortisei and local shops in Selva arrange via ferrata guiding and rent sets (harness, lanyards, helmet).
Stay: For apartments and chalets near lifts, browse VRBO (Ortisei) or VRBO (Selva). Check hotel deals on Hotels.com (Ortisei) and Hotels.com (Selva). For convenience, stay walkable to the Seceda or Alpe di Siusi gondolas in Ortisei, or near the Ciampinoi/Costabella lifts in Selva.
Day 5: Seceda Ridgeline and Alpine Huts
Morning: Ride the Ortisei–Furnes–Seceda gondola early (RT ~€38–42; check the Dolomiti Supersummer card if riding multiple lifts). Walk the panoramic ridge toward Pieralongia pinnacles; detour to the classic grassy knife-edge viewpoint for photos.
Afternoon: Lunch at Baita Sofie or Rifugio Troier—order cheese canederli or a speck–cheese board with horseradish. Continue on balcony trails to Col Raiser; descend by gondola to Santa Cristina and bus back to Ortisei (lines run every 15–30 minutes).
Evening: Relax at the Mar Dolomit public pools/saunas in Ortisei after a big day. For dinner, Mauriz Keller serves wood-fired pizza and grilled trout; grab gelato on the piazza afterward.
Day 6: Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm) E‑Bikes, Meadows, and Paragliding Option
Morning: Take the Ortisei–Alpe di Siusi gondola (or bus from Siusi/Compaccio). Rent e-bikes at the top for a loop toward Saltria and the Sasso Piatto/Plattkofel side (e-bike day rental ~€50–70). Meadows roll out under Sassolungo; keep an eye out for grazing Haflinger horses.
Afternoon: Lunch at Malga Sasso Piatto (try polenta with goulash or Kaiserschmarrn). Riders can extend to the scenic Panorama plateau before returning; hikers can do a gentler loop to Malga Sanon. Adventurous souls can book a tandem paragliding flight from Mont Seuc (~€120–150; weather‑dependent).
Evening: Aperitivo with local Schiava at a wine bar. Dinner at Ristorante Concordia 1908 in Ortisei for a refined Tyrolean take—think herb-crusted lamb or porcini tagliatelle—with a view of the church spire.
Day 7: Sella Pass and the Sassolungo Circuit, Depart
Morning: Bus or drive to Passo Sella (~25–40 minutes from Ortisei/Selva). Do the Sassolungo/Langkofel circuit (12–13 km, 500–700 m gain, 4–5 hours) around the massif, or ride the quirky two-person “coffin lift” to Forcella del Sassolungo for a shorter loop to Rifugio Toni Demetz.
Afternoon: Lunch at Rifugio Comici (seafood specials with alpine views) or Rifugio Vicenza/Boè depending on route. Return to your base, pick up luggage, and depart: buses to Bolzano (for trains) take ~1–1.5 hours; to Verona or Venice airports allow 3–5 hours total with connections (plan on Omio (trains) + Omio (buses), or check Omio (flights)).
Evening: If staying one last night, celebrate with Ladin specialties in Selva at Ristorante Freina—try barley soup, venison medallions, and a South Tyrolean grappa.
Practical Tips for an Adventurous, Mid‑Range Week
- Lifts & passes: Many cable cars run late June–late September; shoulder seasons have reduced schedules. If using 3–5 lifts, the Dolomiti Supersummer points card often saves money.
- Via ferrata: Rent a set (~€20–25/day) and hire a guide for classics like Ivano Dibona (Tofana). Good “firsts” include Ra Bujela (short, scenic). Helmets are recommended on exposed trails.
- Transport: Without a car, buses link passes and valleys in summer; use Omio to check schedules and book seats in peak weeks.
- Reservations: Book Tre Cime road access, Lago di Braies parking (July–Sept), and popular huts/restaurants in advance.
- Budget cues (48/100): Mix apartment stays via VRBO, rifugio lunches (~€12–20 for mains), and a couple of sit-down dinners. Public buses + a targeted lift plan keep costs in check.
Coffee, Snacks, and Dining Shortlist (You’ll See These in the Day Plans):
- Cortina: Bar Majoni (central espresso, pastries), Enoteca Cortina (aperitivo), Il Vizietto di Cortina (casunziei), Baita Fraina (Tyrolean classics), El Camineto (views), Ristorante 5 Torri (pizza).
- Val Gardena: Café Demetz (Ortisei pastries), Tubladel (grill & Ladin dishes), Mauriz Keller (pizza & grill), Ristorante Concordia 1908 (elegant Tyrolean), Rifugi: Sofie, Troier, Comici, Malga Sasso Piatto.
Where to stay next: compare availability and prices in your bases—Cortina d’Ampezzo (VRBO), Cortina (Hotels.com), Ortisei (VRBO), Ortisei (Hotels.com), Selva di Val Gardena (VRBO), and Selva (Hotels.com). For flights/trains/buses into the region, plan with Omio (flights), Omio (trains), and Omio (buses).
In one week you’ll trace WWI history around Cortina, loop Tre Cime’s legendary towers, and stride the balcony trails of Seceda and Alpe di Siusi. The Dolomites reward early starts and an appetite—for views, for Ladin cuisine, and for adventure. Return home with calves pleasantly tired and a camera roll you’ll scroll for years.

