Two rings of emerald atolls in the Indian Ocean, the Cocos (Keeling) Islands are an Australian external territory long prized by navigators and naturalists. The Clunies-Ross family once ran a copra empire here; today, life moves to the rhythm of trade winds, tides, and turtle tracks. Expect postcard beaches, a sapphire lagoon, and a warm Cocos Malay welcome.

Adventurers come for world-class snorkeling, kitesurfing, and diving. Direction Island’s famed “Rip” drifts you over coral gardens like an aquarium come alive, while the lagoon shelters reef sharks, rays, and green turtles. Culture anchors the experience on Home Island, where the Cocos Malay community keeps traditions—language, cuisine, and craft—vibrant.

Practical notes: Flights usually route via Perth and Christmas Island (around 5.5–6.5 hours total). Currency is AUD; time zone is UTC+06:30. Services are limited—book tours and restaurants ahead, carry reef-safe sunscreen, and dress modestly on Home Island (alcohol is not consumed there). Medical facilities are small; bring necessary prescriptions.

West Island

West Island is your easygoing base: a sandy runway, coconut groves, and a main settlement with the visitor centre, supermarket, and the Cocos Club. It’s where you’ll hire a bike or scooter, join lagoon tours, and slip into island time between swims at Scout Park and Trannies Beach.

• Top sights: Trannies Beach sunsets, Scout Park lagoon shallows, Big Barge Art Centre (local art and island history), golf across a runway, and sand-cay picnics.
• Signature experiences: Learn to kitesurf on glassy lagoon water (Jul–Oct is peak wind), dive coral walls with turtles, and drift-snorkel at Direction Island.
• Eat & drink: Casual bistro nights at the Cocos Club, beachside bites at Saltmakers by the Sea (check opening days), pop-up food vans on the foreshore, and self-catered BBQs with fresh fish.

Where to stay: Browse island stays on VRBO or compare guesthouses and apartments on Hotels.com. Popular West Island picks include self-contained beach bungalows and lagoon-view apartments—book early in kitesurf season.

Getting there: Search flights via Perth (often via Christmas Island). Typical travel time 5.5–6.5 hours total; round-trips commonly USD 750–1,200, varying by season. Compare prices on Trip.com or Kiwi.com.

Day 1: Arrival in the lagoon

Afternoon: Touch down on West Island, check in, and grab a breezy orientation ride—hire a bike or scooter. Stop at the Big Barge Art Centre for local artwork and a cool drink, then pick up supplies from the supermarket for breakfasts and beach picnics.

Evening: Sunset swim at Trannies Beach—soft sand, gentle lagoon water, and a pink-orange sky. For dinner, head to the Cocos Club bistro night (days rotate); expect island staples like grilled local fish, Malay-style fish curry, or satay. It’s also the social hub for a cold drink and a chat with residents.

Day 2: West Island beaches and first splash

Morning: Coffee and breakfast at Saltmakers by the Sea (when open; look for pandan pancakes or a bacon-and-egg roll). Walk the shoreline at Scout Park—ideal for wading, shell-spotting, and photos across the lagoon toward Home Island.

Afternoon: Intro to kitesurfing session on the lagoon. The wide, shallow flats and steady trades make it forgiving for beginners. Expect 2–3 hours including set-up and safety; lessons generally run USD 110–180. Non-kiters can rent a stand-up paddleboard (~USD 20–25/hour) and glide over coral bommies.

Evening: Casual dinner: if food vans are out at the foreshore (often one or two nights weekly), go for fish-and-chips or a Malay nasi goreng. Otherwise, self-cater a BBQ at the public grills—ask the supermarket for what’s fresh (try Spanish mackerel) and add a squeeze of lime.

Day 3: Direction Island and “The Rip”

Day trip: Catch the public ferry to Direction Island (traditionally Thursdays and Saturdays; confirm locally). The ride skims the lagoon’s turquoise, about 30–40 minutes from West Island.

On island: Set up at a picnic shelter then hit “The Rip,” a natural channel that drifts you past plate corals and schools of trevally—bring fins, a mask, and a rashie. Between snorkels, swing in a hammock, scan for turtles from the jetty, and beachcomb the sugar-white sand. Pack a picnic lunch (no shops on DI).

Evening: Return to West Island. Celebrate with a sundowner at the Cocos Club. For dinner, Saltmakers by the Sea often runs seafood plates—reef fish tacos or grilled catch with island salad—when open; otherwise repeat the foreshore vans or a homey curry from a rotating pop-up cook.

Day 4: Southern lagoon canoe safari

Morning: Join a motorized canoe safari exploring the southern islands—skim over neon shallows, beach at tiny sand cays, and learn the difference between outer-reef breakers and the calm inner lagoon. Tours usually run 4–5 hours and cost ~USD 120–160 including snorkel stops and light refreshments.

Afternoon: Post-tour downtime back on West Island. Grab iced coffee and cake at the Big Barge Art Centre, then nap or read with your toes in the sand at Scout Park. If energy returns, cycle to the southern tip for wide lagoon views.

Evening: Island stargazing. With minimal light pollution, the Milky Way is brilliant—bring a lightweight tripod for astrophotography. For dinner, try the Cocos Club’s schnitzel or burger nights if running; otherwise, self-cater with barbecue prawns and a fresh papaya salad.

Day 5: Two-tank dive and reef time

Morning: Meet for a two-tank dive with the local operator (typically 8:30 a.m.–2:00 p.m.). Classic sites include the Cabbage Patch (giant Turbinaria corals), The Wall (gliding turtles and reef sharks), and bommie gardens alive with anthias. Expect ~USD 250–300 for a two-dive charter; snorkeling companions can often join at a reduced rate.

Afternoon: Rinse gear and linger over a late lunch—many divers grab hot chips or a stir-fry from the foreshore vans if they’re operating, or assemble a baguette with tuna, lime, and chili from the supermarket. Ease out sore shoulders with a float at Trannies Beach.

Evening: Quiz or movie night sometimes pops up at the Cocos Club—check the weekly board. If you want a sit-down meal, book ahead for a community Malay buffet night when available: coconut rice, beef rendang, sambal eggplant, and pandan desserts.

Home Island

Home Island, also called Kampong, is the cultural heart of the Cocos Malay community. Life here is unhurried—children ride bikes to the jetty, the call to prayer carries on sea breezes, and family recipes spice communal feasts.

• Top sights: Oceania House (the historic Clunies-Ross mansion), Home Island jetty and foreshore, local craft workshops, and modest mosques tucked among palms.
• Etiquette: Dress modestly (shoulders and knees covered), especially near mosques and schools; alcohol isn’t consumed on Home Island.
• Flavor notes: Cocos Malay cuisine blends Indonesian and Straits heritage—nasi lemak, fish curry with coconut, satay, kuih cakes scented with pandan.

Where to stay: For an atmospheric overnight, look for rooms at historic Oceania House or family-run guesthouses; compare options on VRBO and Hotels.com. Availability is limited—reserve ahead.

Getting between islands: The inter-island ferry links West Island and Home Island in roughly 15–25 minutes. Adult fares are commonly in the USD 10–20 range each way; schedules vary by day—confirm times locally. Assume a morning departure when transferring.

Day 6: Ferry to Home Island and Cocos Malay culture

Morning (travel ~20 minutes): Take the morning ferry from West Island to Home Island and drop bags at your stay. Start with a guided walk through Kampong—learn about the Cocos Malay language, pandan weaving, and the island’s maritime past.

Afternoon: Tour Oceania House, the grand 19th-century mansion with stories of coconut empires and shipwreck rescues. Afterwards, browse community craft stalls for pandan baskets and batik scarves. Lunch at a local café near the jetty—try nasi lemak (coconut rice, sambal, egg, anchovies) or ikan bakar (grilled fish) with calamansi.

Evening: If a hosted Malay dinner is offered, book it—satay grilled over coconut husk coals, beef rendang slow-cooked in coconut cream, and kuih sweets for dessert. Stroll the foreshore under a sky tangled with stars. Remember: no alcohol on Home Island.

Day 7: Easy morning and departure

Morning: Quiet sunrise by the jetty, then ferry back to West Island late morning (~20 minutes). If timing allows, play a few quirky holes at the Cocos Islands Golf Club—the course famously threads near the runway and along the lagoon—before a final beach dip.

Afternoon: Pack up and head to the airport for your afternoon departure. Grab a last iced coffee or a takeaway roll if the café is open, and promise yourself you’ll be back for kites in trade-wind season.

Coffee, breakfast, lunch, dinner—specific picks and why they’re great:

• Saltmakers by the Sea (West Island): Beachside coffees, fresh-catch plates, and pandan-tinged sweets when open; ideal pre- or post-swim. Opening days rotate—check the weekly board.
• Cocos Club (West Island): The island’s convivial hub with bistro nights (think fish curry, schnitzel, burgers) plus quizzes or movies. Great for meeting locals.
• Foreshore food vans (West Island): Rotating trucks serving fish-and-chips, Malay stir-fries, or satay—usually 1–3 evenings weekly. Perfect after tours when you want something casual.
• Big Barge Art Centre (West Island): Art, island history, and often good cake and iced coffee—handy for a breezy mid-afternoon stop.
• Home Island café by the jetty: Go for nasi lemak, mee goreng, or ikan bakar; flavors lean coconutty, spicy, and fresh—an essential taste of Cocos Malay cuisine.
• Hosted Malay feast (Home Island): Booked in advance on select nights—communal tables, coconut rice, rendang, sambal, and pandan cakes; the most memorable meal of the trip.

Logistics and tips:

• Flights: Search and book via Trip.com or Kiwi.com. Flights often operate 2–3 times weekly; align your travel days with the schedule.
• Getting around: Hire a bike for short hops or a scooter/4WD for flexibility. Lagoon tours, Direction Island ferries, and inter-island ferries should be pre-booked in busy weeks.
• Costs (typical): Direction Island ferry return ~USD 30–40; kitesurf lesson USD 110–180; canoe safari USD 120–160; two-tank dive USD 250–300; bike hire ~USD 20/day.
• What to bring: Reef-safe sunscreen, rash guard, hat, water bottle, light scarf/sarong for modest dress on Home Island, and a dry bag for ferries. ATM access is limited—cards are widely accepted but carry some cash.

Seven days on the Cocos (Keeling) Islands is a rare mix of active lagoon adventure and unhurried island culture. From the thrill of drifting “The Rip” to the quiet grace of a Malay feast at dusk, you’ll leave with salt-streaked hair, sand in your bag, and stories that smell faintly of pandan and sea breeze.