Speckled in the Indian Ocean roughly halfway between Australia and Sri Lanka, the Cocos (Keeling) Islands are an Australian external territory of two coral atolls and 27 islets. First charted by William Keeling in 1609 and later settled by the Clunies‑Ross family, the islands voted to integrate with Australia in 1984. Today, they offer a rare mix of Malay cultural heritage, WWII history, and impossibly clear lagoon waters.

You’ll base primarily on West Island for beaches, the visitor center, and tours, then hop by ferry to Home Island to meet the Cocos Malay community. Direction Island—an uninhabited sand‑spit ringed by turquoise—delivers the famed “The Rip,” a natural drift snorkel like a living aquarium. Divers come for manta encounters and cobalt‑blue drop‑offs; kiteboarders for steady trade winds over warm, waist‑deep flats.

Services are delightfully simple yet limited: pre‑book flights, accommodation, and tours; bring reef‑safe sunscreen and a hat; and dress modestly when visiting Home Island. The time zone is UTC+06:30 (1.5 hours behind Perth), driving is on the left, and there are no lifeguards on beaches—respect currents and tides. Expect self‑catering with community BBQs, pop‑up food nights, and a friendly local rhythm.

West Island

West Island is the pragmatic, beach‑fringed base: the airport, visitor center, Cocos Club (the lone pub), and tour operators are here, along with bike and 4WD hires. You’ll snorkel shore reefs, play one of the world’s quirkiest ocean‑edge golf courses, and toast sunset at Trannies Beach where pastel skies meet coconut palms.

• Top sights & activities: Trannies Beach for sunsets; Scout Park and Kite Beach for calm shallows; the 9‑hole Cocos Keeling Islands Golf Club; guided dives with Cocos Dive; Direction Island day trips (for “The Rip” drift snorkel).
• Eats & drinks: Evenings revolve around the Cocos Club bar; on selected nights local caterers serve island favorites like grilled fish or curries (check the weekly board at the visitor center). Many visitors self‑cater: stock up at the West Island supermarket and use public BBQs at beaches.
• Good to know: Hire a bicycle or 4WD; carry water and a rash guard; and check weekly ferry and café hours—services vary with flight days.

Where to stay (West Island): Most properties are self‑contained villas or bungalows a short stroll from the beach. Browse options on VRBO or compare guesthouses and apartments on Hotels.com. Book early for school holidays and the July–October wind season.

Getting there: Most travelers fly via Perth with a stop at Christmas Island; typical travel time is ~6–7 hours including the stop. Check fares and schedules on Trip.com (flights) or Kiwi.com; return tickets commonly range from about USD 650–1,200 depending on season.

Home Island

Home Island is the heart of the Cocos Malay community—a quiet kampong of pastel houses, fishing skiffs, and a deeply felt island history. Visit the museum for stories of the Clunies‑Ross era, shipwrecks, and the 1984 self‑determination vote, then stroll the foreshore for views across the lagoon to the palm‑studded islets.

• Culture & etiquette: Dress modestly (shoulders and knees covered), especially near the mosque and community areas. Home Island is dry—do not bring or consume alcohol.
• What to do: Tour the museum, try a hosted Malay lunch featuring nasi lemak, beef rendang, and sambal eggs (arranged via the visitor center), and shop for coconut crafts. The jetty area and near‑shore shallows are good for a quick snorkel on calm days.
• Getting there: Public ferry between West and Home Islands runs most days; crossing ~30 minutes. Return fares are typically from about AUD 12–20—confirm times locally and bring cash.

Where to stay (Home Island): Accommodation is limited and often arranged directly; most visitors day‑trip from West Island. If you’d like to explore options, start with general searches on VRBO and Hotels.com, then confirm availability with the local visitor center.

Day 1: Arrival on West Island, first swim, and sunset

Morning: In transit.

Afternoon: Land on West Island and check in. Stop by the visitor center for ferry timetables, tour bookings (Direction Island ferry, Cocos Dive, motorized canoe safari), and the week’s pop‑up food nights. Take an easy swim at Scout Park’s shallow lagoon and spot green turtles coming up for air.

Evening: Stock the fridge at the West Island supermarket—think tropical fruit, yoghurt, wraps, and BBQ fixings. Watch the sky light up at Trannies Beach; bring a picnic and a sarong for the sand. If it’s an open night, grab a cold drink at the Cocos Club and check the noticeboard for community events.

Day 2: Lagoon life—bikes, kite flats, and golf by the sea

Morning: Brew coffee at your villa and enjoy a simple breakfast on your patio. Hire bicycles or a 4WD and do the runway–beach loop, stopping at Kite Beach to wade over glass‑calm sand flats. If the trades are blowing (July–October), arrange a beginner kite lesson or a downwinder session; lessons typically run ~2–3 hours (from ~AUD 250–300).

Afternoon: Picnic lunch under the palms at Scout Park. Play nine holes at the ocean‑edge Cocos Keeling Islands Golf Club—expect coconut “rough,” seabirds for gallery, and views the whole way (green fees and hire from ~AUD 40–60; pre‑arrange club hire).

Evening: Fire up a public BBQ at the foreshore for grilled fish and lime, or check if a local caterer is serving at the Cocos Club (fish‑and‑chips nights are island favorites). Cap the evening with stargazing—on clear nights the Milky Way feels close enough to touch.

Day 3: Direction Island and “The Rip” (full‑day castaway adventure)

Catch the ferry to uninhabited Direction Island (schedule varies—often a few days per week; day‑return from ~AUD 40–60). Stake out a shaded shelter on blinding white sand, then walk to “The Rip,” a natural channel where ocean water pours into the lagoon. Drift with reef fish, trevally, and curious reef sharks past coral gardens—wear fins, a rash guard, and reef‑safe sunscreen, and always assess current and exit ladders before entering.

Between snorkels, graze on your packed lunch, nap in the breeze, and photograph the “Robinson Crusoe” palms. Back on West Island, rinse gear and enjoy a low‑key dinner—self‑catered tacos or, if available, a curry night posted at the visitor center.

Day 4: Diving blue walls or glass‑calm paddle

Morning: Divers: head out with Cocos Dive for a two‑tank trip (from ~AUD 220–260). Common highlights include manta fly‑bys, green turtles, and 30–40 m visibility on cobalt drop‑offs. Non‑divers: book a guided lagoon paddle or a snorkel cruise to bommies where clownfish peek from anemones.

Afternoon: Lazy lunch back on West Island. Cycle to Trannies Beach for a siesta under the casuarinas and a snorkel along the inner reef—look for giant clams and parrotfish scissoring the coral.

Evening: Sunset drinks at the Cocos Club. Dinner idea: assemble a Malay‑inspired spread in your kitchen—nasi lemak with coconut rice, fried anchovies, cucumber, and hard‑boiled eggs, plus store‑bought sambal.

Day 5: Home Island culture and cuisine

Morning: Ferry to Home Island (~30 minutes; modest dress required). Visit the museum for a compact dive into the islands’ unique arc—from the Clunies‑Ross dynasty to the 1984 UN‑supervised vote. Stroll the kampong lanes and foreshore, greeting locals with a friendly “apa kabar.”

Afternoon: Enjoy a hosted Malay lunch arranged via the visitor center—classic plates might include beef rendang, chicken curry, sambal eggplant, and pandan‑scented rice, finished with coconut‑based kuih sweets (expect ~AUD 25–45 pp depending on menu). Browse coconut‑craft souvenirs, then ferry back to West Island.

Evening: Sundown swim on West Island. If a community dinner night is on, join in; otherwise grill skewers at the public BBQs and sample tropical fruit for dessert.

Day 6: Southern islands canoe safari or flats fishing

Morning: Join a motorized canoe safari exploring the southern lagoon’s sand cays and turtle‑rich shallows (half‑day from ~AUD 120–150). Your guide will share reef ecology, WWII relic stories, and the best snorkel patches for the day’s tide and wind.

Afternoon: Anglers can swap in a guided fly‑fishing session targeting bonefish on gin‑clear flats (from ~AUD 700+ per angler for a full day; book well ahead). Otherwise, beachtime: build a shaded “base camp,” read, and swim between cloud shadows drifting across the lagoon.

Evening: Wind‑down at the Cocos Club and toast a week well‑spent. Dine on simple island fare—grilled fish with lime, a mango‑cucumber salad, and coconut rice.

Day 7: Last dip and departure

Morning: Early snorkel where you’ve loved most—Trannies Beach or a calm inner‑reef patch—then rinse and dry gear in the tropical air. Return hire gear and settle any tabs.

Afternoon: Head to the airport for your flight out. For future trips and price checks, compare routes on Trip.com or Kiwi.com. If you have spare time before boarding, grab a light bite and a coffee on flight days at the airport kiosk (hours vary).

Practical tips at a glance:

• Pre‑book popular activities: Direction Island ferry, dive trips, canoe safari, and any hosted meals.
• Sun and sea safety: no lifeguards, strong currents at The Rip—use fins, a buddy, and local advice.
• Money & comms: Limited ATMs; bring a card and some cash. Mobile data can be patchy—download maps offline.
• Respect culture: Modest dress on Home Island; it’s dry—no alcohol. Take rubbish with you from beaches and cays.

Across a week, you’ll feel the rhythm of lagoon life—mornings in clear water, afternoons beneath palms, and starry nights that hush the world. From West Island’s easygoing beach circuit to Home Island’s living heritage and Direction Island’s iconic “Rip,” this itinerary threads the best of the Cocos (Keeling) Islands with time to simply breathe and be.