7 Days in the Andaman Islands: Port Blair History, Havelock Beaches, and Coral-Reef Adventure
Scattered like emeralds in the Bay of Bengal, the Andaman and Nicobar Islands have hosted navigators, freedom fighters, and marine biologists in equal measure. Port Blair, once home to the notorious Cellular Jail, now anchors trips with museums, war-era ruins, and dining along a breezy seafront. Offshore, reefs unfurl in technicolor—Havelock Island (Swaraj Dweep) is your launchpad for snorkel and scuba, sunset strolls on Radhanagar Beach, and night kayaking among glow-in-the-dark plankton.
Expect a tropical pace: mornings made for clear-water excursions, afternoons for hammock time, evenings for seafood and stories. Ferries stitch the islands together in 1.5–2 hours, and scooters or taxis handle last-mile beach-hopping. Come between November and April for the calmest seas; monsoon (roughly May–September) brings dramatic skies and rougher waters.
Practical notes: Flights connect via mainland hubs like Delhi, Kolkata, and Chennai; foreigners no longer require a Restricted Area Permit for most tourist zones, but tribal reserves are strictly off-limits and protected by law. Reefs are fragile—no touching or taking coral, and many beaches curb single-use plastic. Connectivity can be patchy outside Port Blair, so download maps offline and carry some cash for smaller vendors.
Port Blair
Port Blair blends poignant history with island-warm hospitality. Start with the Cellular Jail—its echoing corridors and evocative Light & Sound show keep the freedom struggle alive. From Aberdeen Jetty, boats skim to Ross Island (Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose Dweep), where banyans weave through British-era ruins, and to North Bay Island, where clownfish dart around shallow coral gardens.
- Top sights: Cellular Jail & Light & Sound show, Ross Island ruins, North Bay snorkeling, Samudrika Naval Marine Museum, Marina Park promenade, Chidiya Tapu sunset.
- What to eat: Try crab masala, grilled lobster, fish thali, and fresh coconut water. Reliable vegetarian plates are easy to find as well.
- Insider tips: Book Light & Sound tickets earlier in the day; plan island-hopping for calm mornings when seas are clearest.
Stay: Browse stays on VRBO Port Blair or compare hotels on Hotels.com Port Blair.
Getting there: Fly to Veer Savarkar International Airport (IXZ). Search fares via Trip.com flights or Kiwi.com. Nonstops are ~2–2.5h from Chennai/Kolkata (often $70–$150 one-way) and ~3.5–4h from Delhi (often $120–$220 one-way).
Havelock Island (Swaraj Dweep)
Swaraj Dweep is the Andamans you’ve dreamed of—powder-soft sands, mellow beach shacks, and water as clear as glass. Radhanagar Beach routinely ranks among Asia’s best, while Elephant Beach tempts with easy snorkel sites and beginner-friendly sea conditions.
- Top experiences: Radhanagar Beach sunset, Elephant Beach snorkel/sea walk, Kalapathar Beach sunrise, mangrove night kayaking, try-dive or certified scuba, boat trips to quiet reefs.
- Eat & drink: Casual beach cafes serve fresh catch, tandoori plates, and tropical smoothies; resorts pour sundowners under starlit skies.
- Getting around: Pre-book a resort transfer; rent a scooter for beach-hopping; taxis and autorickshaws are plentiful near the jetty.
Stay: See options on VRBO Havelock Island or Hotels.com Havelock Island.
Port Blair ↔ Havelock travel: Morning high-speed ferries (private and government) take ~1.5–2h; expect ₹1,800–3,500 ($22–$42) one-way on private vessels (government ferries are cheaper but slower). Seats sell out—buy a day or two ahead when possible.
Day 1: Arrive Port Blair, Cellular Jail, and a Seaside Welcome
Afternoon: Land in Port Blair and check into your hotel. Shake off the flight with coffee and a cardamom bun at Cafe Salt near the seafront, then stroll Marina Park to get your bearings along the harbor.
Evening: Visit the Cellular Jail—its galleries contextualize the freedom struggle with moving exhibits. Stay for the Light & Sound show (evening slots vary; buy tickets earlier in the day). Dinner afterward at Amaya (rooftop, Sea Shell)—order grilled catch-of-the-day with tamarind glaze and a pineapple-chili mocktail; or go classic at New Lighthouse Restaurant for crab masala and tandoori tiger prawns.
Day 2: Ross Island Ruins and North Bay Reef
Morning: From Aberdeen Jetty, take a boat combo to Ross Island (Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose Dweep). Wander vine-draped churches, the old bakery, and the chief commissioner’s residence as friendly deer and peacocks pad through the ruins—an open-air museum of nature reclaiming empire.
Afternoon: Continue to North Bay Island for easy snorkeling over hard-coral patches. Visibility is best before midafternoon; bring a rash guard. Snack on coconut water and spicy chana chaat from beach stalls, or return to town for a late fish thali at Annapurna (vegetarian stalwart with crisp dosas and hearty curries).
Evening: Sunset mocktails at Nico-Bar (Fortune Resort Bay Island) with a view over Phoenix Bay. For dinner, pick Mandalay Restaurant (same hotel) for Andaman-style fish curry with steamed rice, or circle back to New Lighthouse for whole fried snapper.
Day 3: Ferry to Havelock (Swaraj Dweep) and Kalapathar Beach
Morning: Catch a morning ferry to Havelock (~1.5–2h). Pre-book seats; sit right-side for island views. Transfer to your resort and rent a scooter (helmet included) for flexibility.
Afternoon: Lunch at Something Different – A Beachside Café (Govind Nagar): smoky tandoori pomfret, paneer tikka, and mango lassi. Head to Kalapathar Beach—black rocks contrast turquoise shallows; it’s less crowded and great for photos.
Evening: Easy shoreline walk along Beach No. 5 (Vijaynagar). For dinner try Bonova Café & Pub (lively, global-meets-Indian plates; good for families and groups) or Anju Coco Resto for garlic butter squid and banana-leaf fish.
Day 4: Elephant Beach Snorkeling and Radhanagar Sunset
Morning: Boat to Elephant Beach (permits and life jackets handled by your operator). Shallow corals and gentle surge make it ideal for beginners; look for parrotfish and anemones. Optional sea walk for a helmeted stroll on the seabed.
Afternoon: Return for a laid-back lunch—try a masala omelet and fresh juices at your resort or a late bite at Something Different. Rest up; you’ll want energy for golden hour.
Evening: Drive to Radhanagar Beach (Beach No. 7)—wide, powdery, and framed by forest. Swim within flagged zones, then enjoy a long barefoot walk as the sky turns tangerine. Dinner near the beach at The Swimming Elephant (Barefoot)—coastal plates and craft beverages in a candlelit, jungle-meets-beach setting.
Day 5: Scuba, Beach Time, and Night-Kayaking Glow
Morning: Go for a try-dive with a reputable shop (e.g., Dive India, Barefoot Scuba, Scuba Lov). Expect a pool or shallow-water briefing, then a guided dive to ~6–12m; most first-timers spot schools of sergeant majors, butterflyfish, and curious batfish. Prices typically ₹4,000–6,500 per person, gear included.
Afternoon: Post-dive recovery on Vijaynagar Beach with a book and fresh coconuts. Late lunch at Anju Coco—order prawn curry with appams or a grilled fish platter to share.
Evening: Head to the mangroves for bioluminescence night kayaking (timed around the new moon; slots 5:30–8:30 pm). Each paddle stroke sparkles with dinoflagellates—guides provide safety briefings and life vests. Return for a light bite at Bonova or dessert crêpes at your resort.
Day 6: Free Day—Second Dive, Game Fishing, or Beach Hopping
Morning: Customize your day. Certified diver? Book a two-tank boat dive to sites like Johnny’s, Lighthouse, or Red Pillar. Anglers can opt for a half-day game fishing charter (GT, barracuda; typically ₹12,000–25,000 per boat depending on duration and tackle). Prefer land? Start with a sunrise walk at Kalapathar.
Afternoon: Long, lazy lunch at Something Different—butter chicken for the non-seafood crowd, tawa fish for the rest. Then beach-hop: Govind Nagar’s shallow sandbars are great at mid-tide; collect shells (look, don’t take) and watch hermit crabs bustle about.
Evening: Sundowner on the sand with fresh lime sodas. Splurge dinner suggestion: Turtle House at Taj Exotica (if visiting on reservation) for refined coastal cuisine; otherwise return to The Swimming Elephant for a final island feast.
Day 7: Ferry Back to Port Blair and Departure
Morning: Take a morning ferry back to Port Blair (~1.5–2h). Keep your bag handy—security checks precede boarding. Book a late-afternoon flight whenever possible to leave buffer for sea conditions.
Afternoon: If time allows, visit the Samudrika Naval Marine Museum to understand local ecology and reefs, then shop for shell-inspired art (no real coral) and woven crafts at Sagarika Government Emporium. Lunch at Icy Spicy—grab a thali or a paneer kathi roll and a slice of their popular chocolate truffle cake for the plane.
Evening: Transfer to the airport (20–30 minutes from most hotels). Search your flight home via Trip.com flights or Kiwi.com.
Where to Stay (Quick Picks)
- Port Blair: Sea-facing city hotels, guesthouses near Marina Park, and family-friendly stays close to Cellular Jail. Compare on VRBO Port Blair and Hotels.com Port Blair.
- Havelock (Swaraj Dweep): Beachfront cottages near Vijaynagar, boutique eco-lodges by Radhanagar, and midrange stays close to the jetty. See VRBO Havelock Island and Hotels.com Havelock Island.
Getting Around & Practical Tips
- Ferries: Private high-speed (~₹1,800–3,500) and government ferries (~₹400–800) connect Port Blair ↔ Havelock. Book private seats in advance; carry a photo ID.
- Transfers: Airport–jetty taxi is ~20–30 minutes; local taxis and rickshaws are abundant. Scooters on Havelock cost ~₹500–700/day.
- Cash & signal: ATMs and data are reliable in Port Blair; more limited on Havelock. Download offline maps and carry some cash.
- Reef etiquette: No touching/standing on coral; reef-safe sunscreen; follow lifeguard flags; heed weather advisories, especially in monsoon.
- Alcohol & plastics: Alcohol is served at licensed hotels/restaurants; avoid single-use plastic on beaches (common local bans).
Optional Stopover Tours (Mainland India)
Connecting via Delhi or Mumbai? Add a culture-packed day before or after your island escape. Book directly through these curated experiences:
3-hour Old Delhi Heritage Walking tour with Rickshaw Ride

Mumbai City Sightseeing with Elephanta Caves Full Day Tour

How to fly your stopover: Build multi-city tickets via Trip.com or Kiwi.com (e.g., Home → Delhi/Mumbai → Port Blair → Home).
In seven days you’ll trace India’s history in Port Blair, swim above corals at Elephant Beach, and watch Radhanagar glow at sunset—unhurried, salty, and unforgettable. With ferries running smooth and meals anchored in the day’s fresh catch, the Andaman rhythm is easy to keep. You’ll fly home with sea spray on your sandals and a promise to return for more islands.