7 Days in the Andaman Islands: Port Blair, Havelock & Neil — Reefs, Beaches, and Island History
The Andaman Islands are a lush Indian archipelago in the Bay of Bengal, famed for crystal-clear water, living coral reefs, and rainforest-cloaked interiors. Port Blair—once a British penal outpost—anchors the islands’ story at the evocative Cellular Jail, while Havelock and Neil deliver postcard beaches and calm, shallow lagoons. Expect sun-splashed days, star-filled nights, and seafood pulled from the water that morning.
Fun fact: Radhanagar Beach (Beach No. 7) on Havelock has been crowned among Asia’s best, thanks to its long, crescent sandbar, gentle surf, and blazing sunsets. Farther afield, Baratang’s mangrove tunnels lead to limestone caves, and Jolly Buoy in the Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park reveals thriving coral gardens in startlingly clear water.
Practical notes for 2025: Most places accept cards and UPI, but carry cash for small ferries and beach shacks. Non-Indian nationals should check current Restricted Area Permit rules (typically issued on arrival in Port Blair); plastic is restricted on certain islands (including Jolly Buoy). Prime beach-and-diving season is October–May; June–September brings monsoon swells.
Port Blair
Port Blair is your cultural compass and gateway to the outer isles. Wander the solemn corridors of the Cellular Jail, then cross the bay to the deer-dotted ruins of Ross Island (now Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose Island), where tropical roots embrace crumbling colonial buildings. Museums like Samudrika and the Anthropological Museum add context to these remote shores.
- Top sights: Cellular Jail (sound & light show), Ross Island, Corbyn’s Cove, Samudrika Marine Museum, Sagarika Emporium (local handicrafts).
- Food & drink: Think pepper-crusted reef fish, prawn curry with coconut, and flaky Malabar parathas. Rooftop spots serve sunset mocktails with harbor views.
- Insider tip: Taxis are plentiful; auto-rickshaws are cheaper for short hops. Airport to most hotels: 15–25 minutes.
Where to stay (Port Blair): Browse stays on VRBO and Hotels.com. Two reliable in-town picks: Fortune Resort Bay Island (sea-view pool, red laterite architecture) and Hotel Shompen (central location, good value).
Getting there: Fly into Port Blair (IXZ) from Chennai, Kolkata, Bengaluru, Hyderabad, or Delhi. Compare fares on Trip.com (flights) and Kiwi.com. Typical times: 2–2.5 hours from Chennai/Kolkata; 2.5–3 hours from Bengaluru/Hyderabad; 4–5 hours from Delhi (often nonstop or one-stop). One-way fares often range ~₹6,500–₹15,000 depending on season.
Havelock Island (Swaraj Dweep)
Havelock is the beach dream: long, walkable sands, shallow lagoons perfect for first-time snorkeling, and dive shops on leafy lanes. Radhanagar Beach is the headline act, but Elephant Beach charms with reef life, and Kalapathar’s black rocks contrast with blinding-white sand.
- Do: Snorkel or try a discover scuba dive; linger for the iconic Radhanagar sunset; cafe-hop between beachside shacks and stylish lounges.
- Vibe: Laid-back and social—barefoot by day, live music and grills by night.
Where to stay (Havelock): Search island stays on VRBO and Hotels.com. For a polished stay on Beach No. 7, consider Taj Exotica Resort & Spa, Andamans (spacious villas, top-notch dining).
Getting there: High-speed ferries run Port Blair ↔ Havelock (~1.5–2.5 hours). Expect ~₹2,500–₹3,800 per adult on private ferries; government ferries cost less but sell out early. Departures are typically in the morning.
Neil Island (Shaheed Dweep)
Neil moves at island time. It’s smaller and quieter than Havelock, with turquoise shallows at Bharatpur Beach, natural rock bridges on the shoreline, and dramatic sunsets at Laxmanpur Beach.
- Do: Swim and snorkel at Bharatpur’s lagoon, time the tide for Natural Bridge, and catch a fiery sky at Laxmanpur.
- Vibe: Unhurried—perfect for hammocks and coconut water breaks between swims.
Where to stay (Neil): Explore options on VRBO and Hotels.com. Look for beach-access cottages near Bharatpur or Laxmanpur to minimize transfers.
Getting there: Havelock ↔ Neil (~1 hour) and Neil ↔ Port Blair (~1–2 hours) by ferry. Most services sail in the morning; book seats a day or two ahead.
Day 1: Arrive in Port Blair, Cellular Jail & Harbor Views
Afternoon: Land at Port Blair (IXZ) via Trip.com or Kiwi.com. Taxi to your hotel (₹300–₹600). Check in and unwind at Corbyn’s Cove—gentle waves and coconut palms set the tone.
Evening: Visit the Cellular Jail; the sound & light show runs most evenings (arrive 30–45 minutes early). For dinner, try Amaya (rooftop at SeaShell) for seafood grills and views, or New Lighthouse Restaurant for crab masala and tandoori fish. Vegetarians love Annapurna Cafeteria for thalis and dosas. Nightcap at the hotel or a seaside stroll.
Day 2: Baratang Island Mangroves & Limestone Caves (Full-Day)
Set out pre-dawn (around 4:30–5:00 a.m.) for Baratang, ~100 km north. The route passes through a tribal reserve (no photography; follow local guidance). A short boat ride threads mangroves to reach the cave trail, where limestone forms stalactites and rippled chambers. Expect a 10–12 hour day door-to-door. Carry water and snacks; there are local dhabas en route for chai and lunch.
Book: Baratang Island LimeStone Caves

Food today: Pre-order a packed breakfast from your hotel (sandwiches/fruit). Post-tour dinner back in Port Blair: try Light House Residency (pepper prawns) or Milky Way for North Indian curries and naan.
Day 3: Ferry to Havelock & Radhanagar Beach Sunset
Morning: Private ferry to Havelock (~1.5–2.5 hours). Tickets typically ₹2,500–₹3,800; depart in the morning. Check in, rent a scooter if you ride (roads are quiet), and grab brunch at Full Moon Café (coffee, banana pancakes, grilled fish).
Afternoon: Beach break at Kalapathar, where black rocks frame emerald shallows—great for photos and a short swim. Smoothies at Café Salt Water or coconut water from a beach vendor.
Evening: Head to Radhanagar Beach for the famed golden-hour glow. Dinner at Something Different—A Beachside Café (seafood platters, live music) or Bonova Café & Pub (SeaShell) for craft mocktails, wood-fired pizzas, and prawns in lemon butter.
Day 4: Elephant Beach Reefs — Snorkel or Semi-Submarine
Morning: Boat to Elephant Beach (tickets arranged via hotel or pier). Snorkel above vibrant coral bommies with abundant reef fish; non-swimmers can ride a glass-bottom or semi-submarine to see the corals without getting wet.
Book: Havelock Coral Experience: Semi-Submarine and Radhanagar Beach

Afternoon: Return to Shoreline for grilled catch-of-the-day and island salads. Optional: intro scuba dive with a certified operator (October–May has the best visibility).
Evening: Sunset walk, then dinner at Turtle House (at Taj Exotica) for coastal-Indian flavors—think curry leaf–scented lobster and coconut rice—or Anju Coco Resto for inexpensive tandoor, noodles, and curries.
Day 5: Ferry to Neil Island, Bharatpur Lagoon & Natural Bridge
Morning: Ferry Havelock → Neil (~1 hour). Check in and have breakfast at Dugout (eggs on toast, cold coffee) or Blue Sea for idlis and masala dosas.
Afternoon: Swim and snorkel at Bharatpur Beach—shallow turquoise water and gentle waves suit families and casual swimmers. Try a short glass-bottom boat ride to spot hard corals and parrotfish.
Evening: Time the tide for Natural Bridge (suggested just before low tide). Wrap the day at Laxmanpur Beach for a fiery sunset. Dinner options: SeaShell’s in-house grill (fresh reef fish, lime-chili marinades) or Kiran Restaurant (Neil’s beloved thali spot).
Day 6: Return to Port Blair & Jolly Buoy Island Coral Day
Very early morning: Ferry Neil → Port Blair (~1–2 hours). Drop luggage at your hotel, then transfer to Wandoor jetty for the marine park boat. Jolly Buoy is a protected no-plastic zone; bring a reusable water bottle and follow reef-safe guidelines.
Expect outstanding water clarity, vibrant corals, and plenty of reef fish. Non-swimmers can do glass-bottom rides. It’s a full day with fixed return boats; pack snacks and sun protection.
Book: Jolly Buoy Island Day Trip from Port Blair

Evening: Back in town, visit Sagarika Emporium for shell crafts and island spices. Dinner at Excel Restaurant (Thai curries, grilled fish) or Bella Bay for a mellow harbor-side meal.
Day 7: Ross Island, Museums & Departure
Morning: Quick hop by boat to Ross Island (Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose Island) to see banyan-draped ruins and friendly deer. If time allows, stop by Samudrika Marine Museum for corals, shells, and maritime history exhibits.
Afternoon: Airport transfer for your flight home (arrive 2 hours before departure). If you prefer a guided overview instead of DIY sightseeing in Port Blair, consider a private city tour that covers Cellular Jail, Ross Island, and key museums.
Where to Eat & Drink (Handpicked Favorites)
- Port Blair cafés: Café By The Way (espresso, sandwiches), Icy Spicy (vegetarian snacks, chaat, and bakery), BrewBeans (cold brew, cakes).
- Seafood standouts: New Lighthouse Restaurant (crab, tiger prawns), Amaya Rooftop (tandoor grills, mocktails with views), Light House Residency (pepper fry specials).
- Havelock essentials: Full Moon Café (brunch, grilled fish), Something Different (live music, multi-cuisine), Bonova Café & Pub (nightlife vibe, bar bites), Turtle House (refined coastal plates).
- Neil Island bites: Dugout (breakfasts), Kiran Restaurant (budget-friendly thalis), SeaShell’s grill (fresh catch, beachfront ambiance).
Logistics & Tips
- Ferries: Private ferries are faster and more comfortable; book 1–2 days in advance via your hotel or local counters. Typical fares: ₹2,500–₹3,800 per leg (adults). Morning departures are common.
- Transport: Local taxis or hotel cabs are reliable. Scooters are popular on Havelock/Neil (helmet recommended); roads are mostly flat.
- Money & connectivity: ATMs exist in main towns; carry cash for smaller shops. 4G works in towns; coverage thins near remote beaches.
- Permits & rules: Check current permit requirements if you’re a foreign national; follow no-plastic rules at protected islands. Do not touch or step on coral; use reef-safe sunscreen.
Book Your Stays
- Port Blair hotels: Fortune Resort Bay Island, Hotel Shompen, or browse Hotels.com: Port Blair and VRBO: Port Blair.
- Havelock stays: Taj Exotica Resort & Spa, Andamans, or browse Hotels.com: Havelock and VRBO: Havelock.
- Neil Island: Explore Hotels.com: Neil and VRBO: Neil.
Optional/Alternate Tours
If you prefer a packaged island-hopping plan or need an extra beach day built in, consider this flexible option:
Andaman & Nicobar Islands Beach Paradise

For travelers who love a guided overview of Port Blair’s highlights in one go, this private option is handy:
Full Day Port Blair Cellular Jail and Ross Island Tour

Finally, if you want a private, customizable city day (helpful for museum hoppers or last-day plans):
Andaman Island Private Car Tour

In a week you’ll swim coral gardens at Jolly Buoy, witness history under the stars at the Cellular Jail, and watch the sky melt into the sea at Radhanagar and Laxmanpur. With ferries timed right and meals chosen well, the Andamans deliver a rare blend of adventure and calm—one you’ll want to revisit.

