Southern Italy is where volcanic cliffs meet the Tyrrhenian and Adriatic seas, where ancient Greek colonies and Norman fortresses shaped a coastline lined with lemon groves and whitewashed towns. Expect slow mornings, crystalline coves, and plates of seafood that taste like the tide. This week focuses on Sorrento—your breezy base for the Amalfi Coast—and Polignano a Mare in Puglia, the cliff-hugging town adored for its jewel-toned waters.

History runs deep here: from Magna Graecia to the Bourbon Kingdom, you’ll feel layers of culture in cathedral squares and seaside harbors. You’ll sip limoncello where citrus has perfumed the air for centuries, then cross to Puglia for burrata, orecchiette, and stretches of rock-framed beaches. Ferries, regional trains, and short walks link it all with minimal fuss and maximal views.

Practical notes: summer beach clubs rent umbrellas and loungers (roughly €20–35 per person), while spiagge libere (free beaches) abound if you bring a towel. Shoulder seasons (May–June, September–October) are ideal for warm swims and lighter crowds. Pack reef shoes for rocky entries, a light sweater for breezy evenings, and cash for small beach bars.

How to arrive and get around: Fly into Naples (NAP) for Sorrento and out of Bari (BRI) for Puglia to minimize backtracking. Search flights and in-Europe connections on Omio (Flights). For trains and buses between cities, use Omio (Trains) and Omio (Buses); for coastal boats, check Omio (Ferries).

Sorrento

Sorrento sits on a clifftop terrace above the Bay of Naples, gazing at Mount Vesuvius. It’s an easygoing base with lemon-scented lanes, family-run trattorias, and quick ferries to Positano and Amalfi. Beaches here are a mix of small coves and wooden lidos with steps leading straight into clear water.

Top highlights include Villa Comunale’s sunset terrace, the fishing hamlet of Marina Grande, and the Roman-era swimming cove at Bagni Regina Giovanna. Food-wise, think gnocchi alla sorrentina, fresh anchovies, and delizia al limone. For coffee and people-watching, Piazza Tasso delivers from dawn to dusk.

• Where to stay: Search central stays near Piazza Tasso or by Marina Grande on VRBO Sorrento and Hotels.com Sorrento.
• Getting there: From Naples Airport, take the Alibus to Napoli Centrale (≈€5) then the Circumvesuviana train (≈€4.60, 70–75 min) or Campania Express (≈€15, 45–55 min). Book via Omio (Trains). Ferries in season from Naples Molo Beverello to Sorrento take ≈35–45 min (from ≈€20–30); see Omio (Ferries).

Eating & drinking short list:

• Breakfast/Coffee: Bar Fauno (classic cappuccino, cornetti on Piazza Tasso), Pasticceria Monica (sfogliatelle still warm mid-morning).
• Lunch: ‘Nnuovo/Il Leone Rosso (value, generous pasta), Da Emilia a Marina Grande (simple seafood steps from the sea).
• Dinner: O’ Parrucchiano “La Favorita” (lemon grove setting, gnocchi alla sorrentina), PortaMarina Seafood (grilled catch of the day), Ristorante Tasso (reliable, mid-range).
• Sweet stop: Raki (inventive gelato flavors), Limonoro (quick limoncello tasting).

Optional add-on if you route through Rome (convenient for previewing Amalfi before you arrive in Sorrento):

Pompeii, Amalfi Coast and Positano Day Trip from Rome — a single-day sampler that pairs the ruins with two iconic seaside stops.

Day 1: Arrive in Naples → Sorrento Check-in & Sunset Start

Afternoon: Land at NAP, ride Alibus to Napoli Centrale, then Circumvesuviana/Campania Express to Sorrento (≈1–1.25 hours total rail). Drop bags and stretch your legs on Corso Italia and Piazza Tasso. Espresso at Bar Fauno and a quick lemon granita to reset.

Evening: Stroll to Villa Comunale for a golden-hour view of Vesuvius. Dinner down in Marina Grande at Da Emilia—order spaghetti alle vongole or fritto misto. Gelato at Raki; try salted pistachio or Sorrento lemon.

Day 2: Swim Coves & Lido Lounging

Morning: Walk to Bagni Regina Giovanna, a natural rock pool with archway and Roman villa remains (20–30 min from town; bring water shoes). Swim and sun on the flat rocks.

Afternoon: Grab a table at ‘Nnuovo or Il Leone Rosso for a value pasta lunch. Then reserve a lounger at Leonelli’s Beach or Peter’s Beach lidos (≈€25–35 pp for two beds + umbrella). Drift, read, nap—this day is about unwinding.

Evening: Aperitivo on Piazza Sant’Antonino. Dinner in the lemon pergolas at O’ Parrucchiano. Nightcap limoncello at Limonoro.

Day 3: Ferry to Positano & Amalfi

Morning: Board a morning ferry Sorrento→Positano (≈40 min, from ≈€20–30; summer frequency; check Omio (Ferries)). Walk up to the Santa Maria Assunta church, then head to Fornillo Beach—smaller, more relaxed than the main Spiaggia Grande. Rent loungers at Da Ferdinando lido (good salads, panini).

Afternoon: Ferry to Amalfi (≈20–25 min). Visit the Duomo’s Arab-Norman cloister, then lemon sorbet from a gelateria off the piazza. Optional dip at Marina Grande Beach if the sea is calm. Return by ferry to Sorrento.

Evening: Dinner at PortaMarina Seafood back in Sorrento—simple grill, daily catch, fair prices. Post-dinner passeggiata along Corso Italia.

Polignano a Mare (Puglia)

Polignano a Mare is a whitewashed village set dramatically atop limestone cliffs above the Adriatic. Below, coves like Lama Monachile glow a sapphire blue, and boats slip into sea caves carved by millennia of waves. The mood is unhurried: beach, swim, seafood, repeat.

Expect Pugliese flavors—burrata, orecchiette with cime di rapa, grilled octopus—plus a cult coffee called Caffè Speciale (espresso with sugar, lemon zest, cream, and amaretto). Nearby, Monopoli’s sandy coves, Alberobello’s trulli, and Ostuni’s white ramparts make easy day trips.

• Where to stay: Base near Lama Monachile or Centro Storico. Browse VRBO Polignano a Mare and Hotels.com Polignano a Mare.
• Getting there from Sorrento: Day 4 morning: Circumvesuviana to Napoli Garibaldi (≈70–75 min), high-speed Napoli→Bari (≈3h15–3h45; from ≈€19–40), then Bari→Polignano regional train (≈30–35 min; ≈€3–6). Plan and ticket on Omio (Trains). Total travel time ≈5–6 hours with connections.

Eating & drinking short list:

• Breakfast/Coffee: Il Super Mago del Gelo (home of the Caffè Speciale), Martinucci (pasticciotti).
• Lunch: Pescaria (legendary seafood panini—octopus, tuna tartare), La Locanda Porta Picc (homestyle orecchiette).
• Dinner: Osteria di Chichibio (seafood and a deep wine list), Bella ‘Mbriana (casual local favorite), Mint Cucina Fresca (light, veggie-forward).
• Sweet stop: Caruso or Il Super Mago for gelato; try almond or fig.

Optional add-ons if you transit via Rome pre/post trip (laid-back and fun, matching the “relaxing” vibe):

Rome by Golf Cart Private Tour: Beyond the Landmarks — a low-effort way to see major sights between trains or flights.

Winner 2025 Rome Twilight Trastevere Food Tour by Eating Europe — graze through Rome’s tastiest neighborhood if you have a long layover.

Day 4: Sorrento → Polignano a Mare Travel, First Swim

Morning: Depart Sorrento after breakfast. Train to Napoli Garibaldi, then high-speed to Bari Centrale, then regional to Polignano (ticket and times via Omio (Trains)). Expect ≈5–6 hours end-to-end; pack a picnic panino.

Afternoon: Check in and head straight to Lama Monachile. This pebble cove is photogenic and refreshing; bring reef shoes. Snack on focaccia barese from a nearby bakery.

Evening: Aperitivo at Terrazza Santo Stefano (sea views). Dinner at Bella ‘Mbriana for grilled octopus, orecchiette, and local Primitivo by the glass. Gelato stroll through the white lanes.

Day 5: Sea Caves & Monopoli Beaches

Morning: Join a local boat to tour Polignano’s sea caves (Grotta Palazzese, Grotta Azzurra, weather permitting). Boats depart from the small harbor; bring cash and a light jacket in shoulder season.

Afternoon: Quick regional hop to Monopoli (≈5–8 min). Swim at Cala Porta Vecchia or Cala Cozze; both are calm and convenient. Lunch on seafood friselle or a light insalata di mare near the old port.

Evening: Back in Polignano, try Pescaria for their famous seafood sandwiches (octopus with turnip tops is a standout). Finish with a Caffè Speciale at Il Super Mago del Gelo.

Day 6: Alberobello & Ostuni White City

Morning: Train/bus combo to Alberobello (≈1–1.5 hours; plan on Omio (Trains) plus local bus). Wander the Rione Monti district of conical-roofed trulli. Grab an early lunch—orecchiette with tomato and cacioricotta or a board of local cheeses.

Afternoon: Continue to Ostuni (≈45–60 min). Explore the white alleys around the cathedral and take in Adriatic views from the bastions. Return to Polignano by early evening.

Evening: Dinner at Osteria di Chichibio (book ahead). Share crudo di mare (raw seafood), then a simply grilled whole fish. Night walk to the statue of Domenico Modugno for a final cliffside view.

Day 7: San Vito Swim, Pack, Depart

Morning: Short taxi or bus to San Vito to swim near the abbey and Cala San Giovanni—gentle waters and fewer crowds early. Coffee and a sweet pasticciotto back in town.

Afternoon: Train Polignano→Bari Centrale (≈30–35 min) and onward to Bari Airport (BRI) on the shuttle train (≈15–20 min). Search flights on Omio (Flights). If you have extra time, a final focaccia barese for the journey.

Evening: Homebound or connect onward.

Practical Budget & Tips (aligned with a mid-range budget ~50/100)

• Transport: Trains and ferries save money and stress. Reserve high-speed Napoli–Bari early for best fares (from ≈€19). Ferries Sorrento–Positano/Amalfi from ≈€20–30 each way.
• Beaches: Alternate free coves (Bagni Regina Giovanna, Lama Monachile) with one lido day (≈€25–35 pp). Bring a compact microfiber towel.
• Dining: Aim for one “splurge-light” dinner (e.g., Chichibio) and balance with trattorias and panini spots like Pescaria. House wines are excellent value.

Why this route works: You ease into the Amalfi rhythm in Sorrento—no car needed—then slide east to Puglia for cliff-framed beaches and historic towns, finishing near Bari’s well-connected airport. It’s sun-soaked, unhurried, and built for beach time and great food.

Book your stays: VRBO Sorrento, Hotels.com Sorrento, VRBO Polignano a Mare, Hotels.com Polignano a Mare.

Trains, buses, ferries, flights: Omio (Trains), Omio (Buses), Omio (Ferries), Omio (Flights).

In one week you’ll float in Roman coves, ferry to pastel towns, sip caffè by whitewashed walls, and watch the Adriatic turn liquid gold at sunset. Southern Italy rewards those who slow down—sun on your shoulders, salt in your hair, and a table waiting just steps from the sea.