7 Days in Southern Algeria: Djanet and Ghardaïa Desert Itinerary
Southern Algeria is a land of sky-wide horizons and living history. Millennia-old rock art crowds the sandstone of Tassili n’Ajjer, while palm-filled valleys shelter fortified towns where Amazigh (Mozabite) communities still follow centuries-old urban traditions. This is a place to move slowly, to follow the rhythm of tea and wind, and to camp under constellations that feel close enough to touch.
The region’s headliners are Djanet, gateway to the Tassili plateau, and Ghardaïa, heart of the UNESCO-listed M’Zab Valley. Expect 4x4 adventures, gentle canyon walks to gueltas (perennial waterholes), and guided wanders through white-and-ochre ksour crowned by conical mosques. Food is comfortingly elemental: flatbreads baked under sand (taguella), slow-roasted lamb, and date-laced pastries.
Practical notes: desert days swing from warm to chilly nights—pack layers, sun protection, and a scarf for sand. Tassili n’Ajjer’s core areas require a licensed local guide and permits (tour agencies in Djanet arrange both). In the M’Zab Valley, dress modestly; some towns (notably Béni Isguen) have photography rules. Check current travel advisories and carry cash—ATMs can be limited outside bigger towns.
Djanet
Backed by the black-and-amber massifs of Tassili n’Ajjer and fringed by dunes, Djanet is Saharan myth made real. Tuareg guides lead the way to rock-art galleries, whisper-quiet canyons, and wind-sculpted “stone forests” that glow at dawn and dusk.
- Don’t miss: 4x4 across Erg Admer, the palm oasis of Essendilene canyon, and rock-art fields around Jabbaren and Sefar (with a licensed guide).
- Good to know: Multi-hour walks on the plateau are moderate but exposed. Permits and bivouac logistics are routinely handled by local agencies.
Where to stay: Search stays in Djanet on Hotels.com or consider villas and guesthouses via VRBO. Many travelers split time between an in-town hotel (for hot showers) and a guided desert camp under the stars.
Getting to Djanet: Fly via Algiers (domestic flights typically 2h15–2h45). Check schedules and prices on Trip.com flights or Kiwi.com. Expect ~$100–$220 one-way domestically, varying by season.
Day 1 — Arrival in Djanet, first dunes
Afternoon: Arrive in Djanet and check in. If you’re hotel-based, the in-house restaurants are convenient after travel. For a light late lunch, try grilled brochettes, lentil chorba, and kesra (semolina flatbread) at your hotel dining room.
Evening: Short 4x4 run to Erg Admer for your first sunset. The low light turns the sand rose-gold and the Tassili cliffs indigo. Dinner back in town—hotel restaurants in Djanet reliably serve couscous with vegetables, mechoui (slow-roasted lamb), and fresh dates. End with Tuareg mint tea, poured high for foam and hospitality.
Day 2 — Essendilene canyon and guelta
Morning: Meet your licensed guide for a day exploring Essendilene. A gentle hike threads through palms to a shaded guelta where dragonflies hover. Pack sturdy shoes and a scarf for sand gusts.
Afternoon: Picnic in the canyon (your guide can arrange taguella bread baked under embers, served with camel’s milk or honey). Continue to nearby rock bridges and lookout points that catch the breeze.
Evening: Return to Djanet. For dinner, many travelers book the restaurant at Hotel Djanet or the dining room at Hotel Zeriba—ask for rechta (hand-cut noodles) or grilled desert fish when available. Tea salon stop around the main square for almond pastries and mint tea.
Day 3 — Tassili n’Ajjer rock art: Jabbaren or Sefar
Morning: Early departure to the plateau. With permits in order, hike among sandstone “forests” toward Jabbaren or, for longer circuits, Sefar. Your guide will point out cattle-period paintings and giraffe engravings dating back thousands of years.
Afternoon: Continue between rock corridors and tafoni (honeycombed) formations. The silence is deep—carry 2–3 liters of water and sun protection. Field lunch of olives, dates, tinned sardines, and flatbread is typical and delicious.
Evening: If you opted to bivouac, dine fireside with a simple stew and watch Orion rise above the dunes. Otherwise, return to town for a hearty couscous and a music set—Tuareg tindé rhythms sometimes pop up informally at guide-run camps.
Day 4 — Markets, camel ride, and stars
Morning: Browse Djanet’s small market for silver cross pendants, blue cheches (desert scarves), leatherwork, and hand-carved wooden spoons. Coffee and breakfast: most hotels offer strong espresso or sweetened Nescafé alongside msemen (layered pancakes) with apricot jam.
Afternoon: Short camel ride along the palm groves and sand skirts near town—better for photos than distance. Lunch at your hotel restaurant; try tchakhchoukha (torn flatbread in a spiced tomato broth) or a simple omelet saharien with herbs.
Evening: Stargazing with your guide—on clear nights the Milky Way is a bright smear across the black. If you enjoy photography, ask about a basic astrophotography setup; even a smartphone can catch silhouettes against star fields with a tripod.
Ghardaïa (M’Zab Valley)
Ghardaïa anchors a chain of fortified towns—Béni Isguen, Melika, Bounoura, and El Atteuf—designed around equality, community, and ingenious water management. The white ramparts and conical mosques seem sculpted from light, and dates from the palmeraies taste like brown sugar and sun.
- Top sights: The old town of Ghardaïa, the afternoon auction and rules-bound lanes of Béni Isguen (guided entry only), and tranquil El Atteuf, where streets coil toward the mosque.
- Local life: Watch the foggara irrigation channels thread beneath the palms, and sample makrout (date-filled semolina pastries) from traditional patisseries near the main market.
Where to stay: Browse Ghardaïa stays on Hotels.com or check guesthouses and villas via VRBO. Many properties are within a short walk of the covered markets and palm groves.
Getting from Djanet to Ghardaïa: Morning flight via Algiers (Djanet → Algiers ~2h30; Algiers → Ghardaïa ~1h20; plus layover). Total travel time ~5–7 hours, ~$150–$260 one-way depending on season. Compare options on Trip.com flights or Kiwi.com.
Day 5 — Travel to Ghardaïa and sunset over the palmeraie
Morning: Depart Djanet on the first flight to Algiers; connect onward to Ghardaïa. Keep snacks and water handy—domestic layovers can be brief or extended.
Afternoon: Check in, then stretch your legs along the palmeraie edge path. Note the mud-brick watchtowers and the geometry of terraced gardens—this is living irrigation heritage.
Evening: Dinner at your hotel restaurant: try chakhchoukha with lamb, a cumin-scented lentil stew, and a plate of assorted dates from the valley. For something sweet, look for fresh makrout and a glass of mint tea in a nearby salon de thé.
Day 6 — The ksour circuit: Ghardaïa, Béni Isguen, El Atteuf
Morning: Guided walk of Ghardaïa’s old town: climb toward the mosque for views over white cubist houses and the market’s colorful arcades. Breakfast can be msemen with honey and strong coffee at a café near the main square.
Afternoon: Continue to Béni Isguen (with a local guide—entry is regulated). Respect the modest dress code and photography rules. Time your visit for the renowned afternoon auction where traders sing bids for spices, fabrics, and copperwork. Lunch suggestion: simple grilled chicken or kefta at a family-run eatery near the gate; add a salad mechouia (roasted pepper salad) and freshly baked khobz.
Evening: Head to El Atteuf and watch the walls blush at golden hour. Return for dinner at your hotel dining room; ask for rechta or couscous with seasonal vegetables and finish with orange slices dusted in cinnamon. Post-dinner tea in a salon de thé by the market arcades.
Day 7 — Palms, foggaras, and departure
Morning: Easy walk among the palmeraie with a local guide to see the foggara channels and learn how water is apportioned via communal timing—an ingenious system unchanged for generations. Breakfast on the go: date yogurt, brioche, and espresso from a corner café.
Afternoon: Last-minute shopping for pottery, palm-fiber baskets, and date syrup. Transfer to the airport for your flight out. Search or adjust outbound options on Trip.com flights or Kiwi.com.
Evening: In transit. If you have a late departure, consider an early dinner at your hotel: a vegetable tajine or grilled lamb with cumin and coriander, plus mint tea for the road.
Extra tips and local gems:
- Guides and permits: In Djanet, licensed agencies arrange Tassili permits, 4x4s, cooks, and camels for baggage on plateau hikes—book ahead, especially October–April.
- What to pack: Light long sleeves, a warm layer for night, scarf/cheche, electrolytes, headlamp, and soft bags for 4x4s. Closed shoes with grip are best for sandstone.
- Food to try: Taguella (ash-baked bread), mechoui, rechta, chakhchoukha, and makrout. Tea is integral—accept the first glass, expect at least three pours.
- Respectful travel: Ask before photographing people; in Béni Isguen, follow the guide’s lead. Friday hours can be different; plan markets and museum visits accordingly.
This 7-day Southern Algeria itinerary knits together two desert worlds: the open-air museum of Tassili n’Ajjer and the living architecture of the M’Zab. You’ll leave with sand in your shoes, the taste of mint tea, and a renewed sense of time shaped by wind, stone, and stars.

