7 Days in Sibiu County: Saxon Citadels, Mountain Roads, and Carpathian Flavor

A week-long Transylvania itinerary based in Sibiu and Păltiniș, weaving medieval squares, UNESCO fortified churches, and the legendary Transfăgărășan Highway with hearty Romanian cuisine.

Scraped by the wind off the Carpathians and polished by centuries of trade, Sibiu County is where medieval Saxon walls meet contemporary culture. Founded by German settlers (Hermannstadt) in the 12th–13th centuries and reborn as the European Capital of Culture in 2007, it’s a place of cobbled plazas, copper-roofed towers, and “eyes” peering from baroque rooftops. Base yourself in Sibiu and nearby Păltiniș to cover both storybook streets and spruce-clad mountains.


Transylvania’s flavor is earthy and generous: ciorbă (sour soups), sarmale (cabbage rolls), polenta with cheese and sour cream, and papanăși doughnuts. Local sheep’s cheeses, honey, plum brandy (țuică), and regional wines from Tarnave make for memorable tastings. Coffee culture is lively, and cellar restaurants serve recipes passed down through Saxon and Romanian kitchens.

Practical notes: the currency is RON; cards are widely accepted, but keep small cash for markets and mountain huts. The famed Transfăgărășan Highway is typically open July–October; in winter you reach Bâlea Lake by cable car from Bâlea Cascadă. Trains link Sibiu to Mediaș and Brașov; rideshares and buses cover the villages. For flights and trains in Europe, compare on Omio.

Sibiu

Sibiu’s heart beats in its trio of squares—Piata Mare, Piata Mică, and Huet—stitched together by archways, stairways, and pastel facades. The Council Tower watches over outdoor cafés, while the cast-iron Bridge of Lies trades legends with passersby. In winter the Christmas market glows; in summer the theater festival turns streets into stages.

  • Top sights: Brukenthal National Museum (one of Eastern Europe’s oldest art museums), Lutheran Cathedral with its 1775 organ, the Council Tower, and the Bridge of Lies.
  • Don’t miss: ASTRA Museum of Traditional Folk Civilization—over 400 historic houses and workshops around a forest lake, an open-air time machine into village life.
  • Dine and drink: Crama Sibiul Vechi (cellar classics and live folk), Kulinarium (Transylvanian staples on Piata Mică), Hochmeister del Conti (historic townhouse, seasonal plates), La Cuptor (modern Romanian), Café Wien (strudel, sacher, and rooftop views), Arhiva de Cafea și Ceai (specialty coffee and teas).
  • Stay: Browse Sibiu stays on VRBO or compare hotels on Hotels.com.
  • Getting here: Fly into Sibiu (SBZ) or via Bucharest/Cluj, and compare flights and trains on Omio. Airport taxi into Old Town takes ~15 minutes (roughly 25–40 RON).

Păltiniș

Păltiniș is Romania’s highest mountain resort (1,442 m), founded in 1894 by the Siebenbürger Karpathenverein. In summer, spruce trails and ridge walks chase horizon views; in winter, Arena Platoș offers family-friendly slopes, tubing, and après-ski fireside mugs of vin fiert.

  • What to do: Hike to Oncești meadow or Turnu viewpoint, pedal the bike park when lifts run, or try the ziplines and courses at Arka Park (seasonal). In winter, ski and sled at Arena Platoș, then warm up at the slope huts.
  • Eat and unwind: Hohe Rinne Păltiniș Hotel & Spa’s restaurant for hearty game and soups; Arena Platoș Après-Ski for burgers and boards; mountain cabins for stews and mulled wine.
  • Stay: Search Păltiniș cabins and apartments on VRBO or check hotels on Hotels.com.
  • Getting there: From Sibiu, it’s ~35–45 minutes by car or ~50–60 minutes by bus (about 12–20 RON). For regional buses, search on Omio.

Day 1: Arrival in Sibiu + First Taste of Transylvania

Afternoon: Arrive in Sibiu and settle into your Old Town stay. Stretch your legs in Piata Mare, then duck into the Council Tower for a quick panorama—rooftop “eyes,” church spires, and the Cibin Valley beyond.


Evening: Dinner at Crama Sibiul Vechi for sarmale, pork knuckle, and polenta on wooden boards—book a cellar table. Nightcap at Café Wien for apfelstrudel and Viennese coffee with a terrace view over Huet Square.

Day 2: Old Town Deep Dive—Museums, Towers, and Bridges

Morning: Fuel up at Arhiva de Cafea și Ceai (try a V60 or a flat white) with a buttery croissant. Tour the Brukenthal National Museum (Austrian Baroque palace and European masters) and pop into the Pharmacy Museum for a quirky 18th-century apothecary vibe.

Afternoon: Cross to Piata Mică for lunch at Kulinarium—goulash, bean soup in bread bowls, and Transylvanian roasts. Climb the Council Tower if you didn’t yesterday, visit the Lutheran Cathedral (tallest in Transylvania; check for organ recitals), then amble onto the 1859 cast-iron Bridge of Lies, oldest in Romania.

Evening: Dinner at Hochmeister del Conti for seasonal plates (think venison, root veg, local cheeses) in a historic townhouse. Post-dinner, stroll the \"Stairs Passage\" and grab a digestif at an Old Town wine bar.

Day 3: Mediaș & Biertan Fortified Church (UNESCO) Day Trip

Morning: Catch the train to Mediaș (~1 h 30–1 h 45; about 20–30 RON / $5–7; search schedules on Omio Trains). Walk the old walls to the Trumpeter’s Tower and St. Margaret Church (gothic frescoes; check opening hours). Coffee at a central café near Piata Regele Ferdinand I.


Afternoon: Taxi or hire a driver to Biertan (~30–40 minutes). Explore its hilltop Fortified Church, a UNESCO icon with triple defensive walls and a famous sacristy lock with 19 mechanisms. Lunch at Unglerus (when open) for soups, roast pork, and local Tarnave wines.

Evening: Return to Sibiu by train or car. Dinner at La Cuptor—modern takes on Romanian classics (duck with plum sauce, slow-cooked beef), then gelato on Piata Mică.

Alternative guided option (long day from Brașov): If you’d prefer a private, curated day linking multiple Saxon citadels, ride an early train to Brașov (~2.5–3 h; Omio Trains) and join this highly rated tour:

Secrets of the Citadels: Brașov, Viscri, Sighișoara and Sibiu — Private full-day exploration of Transylvania’s fortified gems, with flexible pacing and local insights.

Secrets of the Citadels: Brașov, Viscri, Sighișoara and Sibiu on Viator

Day 4: The Transfăgărășan & Bâlea Lake

Morning: Drive the Transfăgărășan Highway toward Bâlea Lake (allow 2–2.5 h with photo stops). July–October you can drive to the glacial lake; November–June switch to the cable car from Bâlea Cascadă station. The scenery—waterfalls, hairpins, and granite—earns every superlative.


Afternoon: Hike short lakeside trails or visit the seasonal Ice Hotel (winter). Late lunch at Cabana Bâlea Lac (warming stews and soups). On your return, stop at the atmospheric Cârța Cistercian Abbey ruins for haunting Gothic arches in a meadow.

Evening: Back in Sibiu, book Hermania for Saxon-style roast meats, dumplings, and local wines. If it’s concert night, check the Sibiu Philharmonic or a church recital.

Day 5: Sibiu to Păltiniș + ASTRA Museum

Morning: Pack up and detour to the ASTRA Museum (plan 2–3 hours). Wander windmills, wooden churches, and craft workshops circling the forest lake, then grab langoși or kurtos kalacs from stalls.

Afternoon: Continue to Păltiniș (35–45 minutes by car; bus ~50–60 minutes—check Omio Buses). Check into a mountain hotel or chalet—many offer spa access.

Evening: Dinner at your lodge or Hohe Rinne restaurant for soups, game, and Transylvanian wines. End with stargazing—clear skies and cool mountain air do the rest.


Day 6: Trails, Arka Park, or Slopes at Arena Platoș

Morning: Summer: hike the spruce-lined trails to Oncești Meadow or the Turnu lookout; pack water and layers. Families can opt for Arka Park (ziplines and rope courses; seasonal, check hours).

Afternoon: Winter: ski or snowboard at Arena Platoș (rentals on-site; terrain for beginners and intermediates), or try tubing runs. Lunch at the slope chalet—grills, soups, and hot chocolate.

Evening: Unwind in the spa (sauna, pool, or hot tub). Dinner at the Après-Ski terrace for burgers and mulled wine, or head back to your hotel restaurant for a slow-cooked stew.

Day 7: Slow Morning in the Mountains + Departure

Morning: Coffee with a view and an easy stroll through the forest paths near your lodge. Pick up local cheeses and honey from a roadside stall if you spot one—perfect edible souvenirs.

Afternoon: Transfer back to Sibiu for your train or flight home (allow 45–60 minutes from Păltiniș to the city/airport). Compare options on Omio for flights, trains, or buses. If time allows, squeeze in a final pastry from a bakery in Piata Mare.


Where to Stay (Quick Picks)

  • Sibiu (4 nights): Stay inside or just outside the Old Town walls for easy walking. See options on VRBO and Hotels.com.
  • Păltiniș (2 nights): Choose a spa hotel or chalet near Arena Platoș for slopes access, or closer to the village for trails. Browse VRBO or compare on Hotels.com.

Getting Around & Costs

  • Arrival: Fly to Sibiu (SBZ) or via Bucharest/Cluj and connect by train. Compare on Omio. Taxi from SBZ to Old Town ~25–40 RON ($6–9).
  • Trains: Sibiu–Mediaș ~1 h 30–1 h 45 (20–30 RON / $5–7). Check Omio Trains.
  • Buses: For regional routes (Sibiu–Păltiniș, villages), browse Omio Buses.
  • Day trip driving: Transfăgărășan fuel + toll-free road; cable car to Bâlea Cascadă–Bâlea Lac operates winter/spring (budget ~100–120 RON round-trip; prices vary).
  • Meals: Coffee & pastry $3–5; lunch $8–15; dinner with wine $15–30. Tips: 10% appreciated.

Local Eats to Seek Out

  • Crama Sibiul Vechi: Cellar ambiance, live folk on some nights, robust platters—book ahead.
  • Kulinarium: Transylvanian comfort dishes on Piata Mică; great for people-watching.
  • Hochmeister del Conti: Inventive, seasonal menu in a heritage building; reserve evenings.
  • La Cuptor: Modern Romanian plates, good vegetarian options, cozy vibe.
  • Hermania: Saxon classics: roasts, dumplings, and local wines in a historic hall.
  • Café Wien & Arhiva de Cafea și Ceai: For strudel, tortes, and specialty coffee.

In seven days you’ll trace Transylvania’s arc—from Sibiu’s polished squares and museum halls to spruce forests and glacial lakes. Expect medieval stories, mountain horizons, and generous meals that linger like the last light on the Făgăraș peaks. Sibiu County rewards unhurried travelers; you’ll leave with a pocketful of legends and a taste for coming back.

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