Welcome to the Orkney Islands, a storied archipelago off Scotland’s north coast where Neolithic stone circles meet North Atlantic seas. Here, prehistoric villages stand almost intact, seabirds wheel over red sandstone cliffs, and islanders still knit and smoke-fish with quiet pride. Orkney’s UNESCO-listed “Heart of Neolithic Orkney” rivals any ancient landscape on earth for atmosphere and accessibility.

Centuries of Norse rule left their mark—from place names to saga lore—while later chapters revolve around Scapa Flow, the Royal Navy’s great natural harbor. Today, craft makers, distillers, and chefs channel this deep heritage into gin botanicals, peated drams, hand-thrown ceramics, and seafood pulled straight from cold, clean waters. Expect big skies, brisk walks, and heartwarming suppers.

Practical notes: Weather is changeable year-round; pack layers, waterproofs, and sturdy footwear. Book key sites (like Maeshowe) and restaurants in summer, and mind ferry timetables—gales can cause changes. Driving is on the left; buses are reliable on Mainland, and local ferries connect Hoy and the outer isles. For flights, trains to the ferry, and ferries, compare options via Omio (flights), Omio (trains), and Omio (ferries).

Kirkwall

Kirkwall is Orkney’s lively capital and harbor town, crowned by the blood-red St Magnus Cathedral (founded 1137). Within easy strolls you’ll find the Orkney Museum (in Tankerness House), the Bishop’s and Earl’s Palaces, and a waterfront of pubs pouring Orkney ales. Distilleries at the town’s edge—Highland Park and Scapa—anchor a proud whisky tradition.

Food-wise, Kirkwall punches above its weight. Tuck into Orkney beef pies and Cullen skink in snug pubs or modern Scottish plates in stylish dining rooms. Coffee culture thrives too: roasters, bakeries, and cafés serve hearty breakfasts perfect for days that begin with a coastal gale and end under midsummer light or winter stars.

• Top sights nearby: St Magnus Cathedral; Orkney Museum; Bishop’s & Earl’s Palaces; Scapa Beach; Highland Park Distillery; Scapa Distillery; Italian Chapel and Churchill Barriers (short drive).
• Where to stay: Walkable Old Town and harbor streets keep cafés, cathedrals, and buses at your door. Browse VRBO Kirkwall stays or compare hotels on Hotels.com (Kirkwall).
• Getting there: Flights from Edinburgh/Glasgow/Aberdeen to Kirkwall take ~1 hour (typical £80–£200 one-way; search via Omio). Overland: train/bus to Scrabster via Inverness (3.5–6 hours; check Omio trains), then ferry to Stromness (90 minutes; see Omio ferries), followed by a 30-minute bus to Kirkwall.

Stromness

Stromness, a 17th-century seafarers’ town, curls around a sheltered bay with stone lanes and artists’ studios. It’s a perfect base for West Mainland’s big hitters—Ring of Brodgar, Stones of Stenness, Maeshowe, Skara Brae—and for boat trips to Hoy and cliff walks at Yesnaby.

Expect a slower rhythm: galleries, an acclaimed arts centre, and friendly pubs where fishermen rub shoulders with hikers. Watch seals in the harbor at high tide, then settle in for scallops and Orkney crab while the wind hums through the rigging outside.

• Top sights nearby: Ring of Brodgar; Stones of Stenness; Maeshowe; Skara Brae & Skaill House; Pier Arts Centre; Yesnaby cliffs; Ferry to Hoy for the Old Man of Hoy and Scapa Flow Museum.
• Where to stay: Look along the waterfront for rooms with sea views. Compare VRBO Stromness cottages or hotels on Hotels.com (Stromness).
• Kirkwall–Stromness: 25–30 minutes by car; Stagecoach bus X1 runs roughly every 30 minutes (about £3–£4). Taxis readily available.

Day 1: Arrive in Kirkwall, cathedral and harbor first impressions

Afternoon: Land at Kirkwall Airport or arrive by bus from Stromness ferry. Drop bags and stroll to St Magnus Cathedral; climb the tower if open for views over the town and Scapa Flow. Pop into the Orkney Museum (free) for Pictish stones, Viking artifacts, and wartime exhibits.

Evening: Classic Orkney supper at Helgi’s (shorefront; try Orkney beef pie, haddock, and local ales) or modern Scottish at The Storehouse Restaurant with Rooms (seasonal fish, island cheeses, crisp service). Nightcap at the Orkney Distillery bar for a Kirkjuvagr gin flight.

Day 2: Distilleries, Scapa Beach, and Kirkwall’s old lanes

Morning: Tour Highland Park Distillery (1798), learning about peat cut from Hobbister Moor; tastings typically £15–£30. Coffee after at Archive Coffee & Bar (excellent pastry) or Judith Glue & The Real Food Café opposite the cathedral.

Afternoon: Head to Scapa Distillery for a contrasting, honeyed style of whisky, then stroll the curve of Scapa Beach—seals often bob here. If rain sets in, enjoy craft shopping along Albert and Broad Street for knitwear, pottery, and artwork.

Evening: Pub dinner at the St Ola Hotel Bar & Bistro by the harbor (good shellfish, hearty mains). For dessert, find Orkney ice cream at local shops. Optional easy stroll along the waterfront to watch the ferry lights.

Day 3: Italian Chapel, Churchill Barriers, and Deerness coast

Morning: Drive or bus over the Churchill Barriers to Lamb Holm’s Italian Chapel, a heartfelt WWII POW creation of tin and paint that feels like a miracle in miniature. Continue to beaches at Burray and South Ronaldsay for sea glass and wide skies.

Afternoon: Picnic or lunch back in Kirkwall, then head to Mull Head & The Gloup (Deerness). Walk the clifftop loop above the blowhole; watch for fulmars, shags, and, in summer, puffins off headlands.

Evening: Reserve a table at The Storehouse if you haven’t yet, or return to Helgi’s for sticky toffee pudding. If skies are clear, look for the Milky Way; in winter, weak aurora can flicker this far south.

Day 4: Transfer to Stromness (morning), then the Heart of Neolithic Orkney

Morning: Check out, then bus or drive 30 minutes to Stromness. Drop bags and fuel up at Julia’s for coffee and a warm roll. Set out to the Stones of Stenness and the great ring at Brodgar—both atmospheric in any weather, best savored with slow, circular walks.

Afternoon: Book ahead for the guided access to Maeshowe, the finest chambered tomb in northern Europe; its midwinter solstice light alignment is legendary. Continue to Skara Brae, a 5,000-year-old village revealed by a storm, then visit adjoining Skaill House (home of Skara Brae’s 19th-century discoverer).

Evening: Back in Stromness, settle into The Ferry Inn for Orkney crab, scallops, and convivial banter. If you arrive on a music night, expect fiddles at the bar and a warm welcome.

Day 5: Hoy day trip — Old Man of Hoy and Scapa Flow Museum

Morning: Take the passenger ferry from Stromness to North Hoy (Moaness) (around 35 minutes; check schedules; book via Omio ferries). Arrange a local taxi or bus to Rackwick, then hike 2–3 hours round-trip to the Old Man of Hoy, a 449-foot sea stack rising from booming surf.

Afternoon: Cross to Lyness (or time your route via Houton–Lyness if using the car ferry) to visit the superbly renewed Scapa Flow Museum—WWI and WWII naval history brought to life with dramatic artifacts. Return to Stromness by ferry.

Evening: Casual dinner at The Royal Hotel’s bar or another night at The Ferry Inn. If energy allows, a dusky amble along the pier often brings seal sightings near the slipway.

Day 6: Birsay tides, cliffs at Yesnaby, and Pier Arts Centre

Morning: Check tide times to walk the causeway to the Brough of Birsay (puffins May–July; lighthouse and ruins year-round). Coffee and cake at Birsay Bay Tearoom (typically seasonal; in shoulder seasons try Eviedale Bakehouse for wood-fired pizza and pastries).

Afternoon: Explore the Broch of Gurness, a fine Iron Age settlement facing Rousay. On the way back, pull in at the Yesnaby cliffs for short walks to sea stacks and wave-battered platforms—sensational in golden light.

Evening: Back in Stromness, browse the Pier Arts Centre (Peploe to Hepworth, plus Orcadian artists) if you didn’t earlier, then dinner of local seafood and Orkney cheeses. For a mellow nightcap, sample Orkney Brewery ales in a cozy pub.

Day 7: Crafts and farewells; afternoon departure

Morning: Return to Kirkwall or linger in Stromness depending on your departure point. In Kirkwall, visit artisan shops for knitwear, ceramics, and a bottle of Kirkjuvagr gin to take home. Brunch at Archive Coffee & Bar or the cathedral-side café at Judith Glue.

Afternoon: Fly out of Kirkwall Airport (~1 hour to mainland Scotland; check Omio) or sail from Stromness to Scrabster (90 minutes; compare on Omio ferries). If continuing overland, trains via Inverness connect to Scotland’s central belt (Omio trains).

Where to eat and drink: quick picks

• Breakfast/coffee (Kirkwall): Archive Coffee & Bar (house bakes), Judith Glue & The Real Food Café (hearty), The Reel (music hub with good coffee).
• Lunch (near sites): Orkney Brewery Tasting Hall (Quoyloo; pies, soups, flights), Skaill House café (seasonal, next to Skara Brae), packed picnic for Hoy hikes.
• Dinner (Kirkwall): Helgi’s (pub classics, local seafood), The Storehouse (modern Scottish, reservations advised), St Ola Hotel (harborside mains).
• Dinner (Stromness): The Ferry Inn (seafood-led), The Royal Hotel bar meals; in summer, look for pop-ups and fresh seafood specials.
• Drams & tastings: Highland Park Distillery and Scapa Distillery (book tours), Orkney Distillery (Kirkjuvagr gin cocktails).

Getting there and around: times, costs, and booking tips

• Flights: Edinburgh/Glasgow/Aberdeen → Kirkwall ~1h; typical £80–£200 one-way. Compare options at Omio (flights).
• Ferries: Scrabster → Stromness ~90 min; Gills Bay → St Margaret’s Hope ~1h; Aberdeen → Kirkwall (longer crossing, often overnight). Check and book via Omio (ferries). Foot passenger ~£16–£25; vehicles higher and must be reserved.
• Trains/buses to ferry ports: Scotland’s rail to Inverness then bus/train to Thurso/Scrabster typically 3.5–6h; plan with Omio (trains) and Omio (buses).
• On-island transport: Buses connect Kirkwall, Stromness, and major sites; a day ticket is good value. Driving offers flexibility for Birsay/Yesnaby/Deerness—use passing places courteously.

Optional inspiration: stargazing format

If you’re inspired by dark skies and want a guided astronomy experience on a future tropical trip, here’s an example of the type of small-group stargazing many travelers enjoy (note: this specific activity is not in Orkney):

Exploring the Skies with Newtonian Telescope

That’s your week in Orkney: ancient stone circles, cliff-edge paths, and nights warmed by local whiskies and stories. With two easy bases—Kirkwall and Stromness—you’ll cover the island highlights without rushing, leaving just enough time to linger where Orkney’s wind and light work their quiet magic.