7 Days in Scotland’s Orkney Islands: Ancient Stones, Sea Stacks, and Slow Island Living

Unearth 5,000 years of history on a week-long Orkney itinerary based in Kirkwall and Stromness—think Neolithic wonders, whisky tastings, puffin cliffs, and the legendary Old Man of Hoy.

The Orkney Islands sit off Scotland’s north coast, a windswept archipelago where Atlantic swells meet 5,000 years of human story. Neolithic villages, Viking sagas, cathedral spires, and wartime relics all share the same sea-skirted stage. It’s a compact destination—with big skies and bigger history.


Anchored by Kirkwall and Stromness on Mainland Orkney, the islands reward unhurried travel: linger over a bowl of Cullen skink, wander a stone circle at golden hour, then watch seals bob at dusk. From Skara Brae to the Ring of Brodgar, Orkney’s UNESCO-listed Heart of Neolithic Orkney is the headline, while Hoy’s cliffs and Scapa Flow’s wartime heritage round out the cast.

Practical notes: Book Maeshowe tours in advance (spaces are limited), check tides for Brough of Birsay, and watch for seasonal hours (many sites shorten hours in winter). Layers are essential—Orkney’s famed breeze is real—but the payoff is clear light, clean air, and empty beaches.

Kirkwall

Kirkwall, Orkney’s capital, blends Norse and Scottish threads. The red-sandstone St Magnus Cathedral anchors the old town; alleys tumble to the harbor where fishing boats and day ferries come and go. Distilleries flank the edges—Highland Park and Scapa—each with its own maritime character.

  • Top sights: St Magnus Cathedral, Orkney Museum (Tankerness House), Bishop’s & Earl’s Palaces, Highland Park Distillery, Scapa Distillery, Scapa Beach.
  • Local flavor: Taste Orkney crab, scallops, lamb, and the island’s famed cheddar. Pop into Kirkness & Gorie for cheese and wine, and Judith Glue & The Real Food Café for hearty soups and bakes.
  • Fun fact: Kirkwall’s cathedral was founded in 1137 in honor of St Magnus, an Earl of Orkney—still the most northerly cathedral in Britain.

Where to stay (Kirkwall): Search hotels and self-catering near the harbor or cathedral for easy walking to restaurants and sights. Browse Hotels.com: Kirkwall and VRBO: Kirkwall.

Getting to Orkney: Fly to Kirkwall (KOI) from Edinburgh, Aberdeen, or Inverness (about 1–2 hours, often $90–$180 one-way). Compare options on Omio (Flights in Europe). Overland, ride the train to Thurso or Aberdeen via Omio (Trains in Europe) and connect to buses via Omio (Buses in Europe). Ferries to Orkney (e.g., Aberdeen–Kirkwall overnight; Scrabster–Stromness 90 min) can be browsed via Omio (Ferries in Europe); foot passengers from ~£20–£35, cars from ~£40–£90 depending on route and season.


Day 1: Arrive in Kirkwall, Cathedral Quarter Stroll

Afternoon: Arrive in Kirkwall and settle in. Stretch your legs with a gentle circuit: St Magnus Cathedral’s Viking-era grandeur, the atmospheric ruins of Bishop’s and Earl’s Palaces, then the Orkney Museum for a primer on Neolithic finds and Norse sagas.

Evening: Dinner at Helgi’s—order Orkney crab, monkfish, or a robust steak pie, and a local ale. For a nightcap, try a Kirkjuvagr gin cocktail at the Orkney Distillery bar or pop into The Reel for occasional live traditional music.

Day 2: Whisky, Scapa Beach, and Local Larder

Morning: Tour Highland Park Distillery (book ahead) to learn how Orcadian peat shapes its honey-smoked style; sip a curated flight. Coffee and pastries at Archive Coffee—try the cardamom bun or a flaky croissant.

Afternoon: Explore the cathedral interiors in detail (look for runic graffiti), then walk down to Scapa Beach for big skies and views across Scapa Flow. If you prefer a second dram, Scapa Distillery offers tours with a gentle, coastal whisky profile.

Evening: Dinner at The Storehouse Restaurant, known for seasonal island produce and excellent seafood. Finish with Orkney ice cream or a local cheese board from Kirkness & Gorie to take back to your room.


Day 3: South Isles—Italian Chapel, Churchill Barriers, St Margaret’s Hope

Morning: Drive or bus south over the WWII Churchill Barriers, built to protect Scapa Flow, pausing at the delicate Italian Chapel on Lamb Holm—crafted by POWs from scrap and faith. Continue to beaches on Burray for a stroll if the tide is kind.

Afternoon: Lunch in St Margaret’s Hope—try the Murray Arms for seafood chowder or a local lamb burger. Walk the low cliffs at Hoxa Head to spot seals and wartime batteries, then return via a photo stop at the Barriers’ wave-lashed causeways.

Evening: Back in Kirkwall, dine at the Lynnfield Hotel Restaurant (near Highland Park) for elevated Scottish fare—think venison, langoustines, and an extensive whisky list. For something casual, Judith Glue & The Real Food Café does hearty soups and pies early in the evening.

Day 4: Deerness and Mull Head—Sea Arches and Quiet Sands

Morning: Grab breakfast at Café Lolz (pancakes and strong coffee) before heading east to Mull Head Nature Reserve. Walk the cliff-top loop to the Gloup sea-cave collapse and, if conditions allow, the Brough of Deerness—expect kittiwakes and dramatic headlands.

Afternoon: Picnic on the dunes of Dingieshowe with supplies from Kirkness & Gorie. On your way back, pause at craft studios or farm shops for knitwear and ceramics—Orkney’s makers are quietly excellent.


Evening: Casual fish and chips at Harbour Fry by the water, then a sunset wander along Kirkwall’s piers. Early night—you’ll change bases in the morning.

Stromness

Stromness is a storybook harbor town: flagstone lanes, blue-painted doors, and an artists’ pulse courtesy of the Pier Arts Centre. It’s the best base for Orkney’s West Mainland—Skara Brae, Brodgar, and cliff walks—and ferries to Hoy for the Old Man of Hoy hike.

  • Top sights: Skara Brae & Skaill House, Ring of Brodgar, Stones of Stenness, Maeshowe, Yesnaby cliffs, Pier Arts Centre, Stromness Museum.
  • Local flavor: Sample Orkney Brewery ales (Dark Island, Corncrake), try a bowl of Cullen skink at the Ferry Inn, and seek out oatcakes fresh from local bakeries.
  • Fun fact: Stromness prospered as a Hudson’s Bay Company port; its narrow main street still hugs the shoreline like a ship’s gangway.

Where to stay (Stromness/West Mainland): For harbor views, base in Stromness; for stone-circle sunsets, consider West Mainland hotels. Browse Hotels.com: Stromness and VRBO: Stromness.

Getting between Kirkwall and Stromness: It’s about 25–30 minutes by car or the frequent Stagecoach bus (around £4–£6 one-way). Taxis typically run £25–£35. Consider a morning transfer to reset and make the most of West Mainland.

Day 5: Transfer to Stromness, Heart of Neolithic Orkney

Morning: Depart Kirkwall for Stromness (~30 minutes by bus/car). Drop bags, then head straight to the Stones of Stenness and the Ring of Brodgar. These monumental circles, set between lochs, are especially evocative in low light—walk the full circumference to feel the scale.


Afternoon: Pre-book the Maeshowe chambered cairn tour (guided access only). Viking runes and precise solstice alignment make it a world-class site. Lunch nearby or return to Stromness for soup and sandwiches at Argo’s Bakery (a local stalwart).

Evening: Dine at the Ferry Inn—Cullen skink, fish of the day, and Orkney lamb are well handled. Stroll to Warebeth beach for sunset over Hoy’s mountains.

Day 6: Hoy Day Trip—Old Man of Hoy or Scapa Flow Museum

Morning: Catch the passenger ferry from Stromness to Moaness (Hoy) and bus/taxi to Rackwick. Hike the coastal path to the Old Man of Hoy sea stack (allow 3–4 hours round-trip). In spring/summer, watch for seabirds wheeling below the cliffs.

Afternoon: Picnic at Rackwick’s boulder beach or, for a history-focused option, visit the Scapa Flow Museum at Lyness to explore WWI/WWII naval heritage. Return to Stromness by late afternoon; check the ferry timetable and weather before departure.

Evening: Treat yourself at Hamnavoe Restaurant (seasonal; reserve)—imaginative seafood plates and local produce in a cozy dining room. For a pint, the Ferry Inn’s bar is convivial and often chatty with locals and visiting divers.


Day 7: Skara Brae, Skaill House, and Yesnaby—Depart

Morning: Start early at Skara Brae, a 5,000-year-old village revealed by a storm in 1850. Pair it with a walk through Skaill House (home of Skara Brae’s discoverer) and coffee at the onsite café. If tides suit later in your trip, the Brough of Birsay tidal island and nearby puffin cliffs (late spring/summer) make a superb add-on; lunch at Birsay Bay Tearoom when open (seasonal).

Afternoon: Time permitting, swing by the wave-carved Yesnaby cliffs for a brisk walk, then head back toward Kirkwall Airport or the ferry for your afternoon departure. If you prefer a toast to farewell Orkney, the Orkney Brewery (Quoyloo) offers tastings and a hearty Tasting Hall menu—Dark Island is a classic.

Evening: Travel onward. For flights, compare on Omio (Flights in Europe); for trains/buses south, check Omio (Trains) and Omio (Buses), and for ferries see Omio (Ferries).

Eating & drinking highlights through the week

  • Breakfasts and coffee: Archive Coffee (Kirkwall) for specialty pours and pastries; Café Lolz (Kirkwall) for hearty breakfasts; Argo’s Bakery (Stromness) for filled rolls, oatcakes, and sweet bakes.
  • Lunch ideas: Judith Glue & The Real Food Café (Kirkwall) for soups and sandwiches; Birsay Bay Tearoom (seasonal) for cakes with sea views; Skaill House café for a mid-sightseeing refuel.
  • Dinners: Helgi’s (Kirkwall) for local seafood and pub classics; The Storehouse (Kirkwall) for contemporary Scottish; Ferry Inn (Stromness) for comforting bowls and fresh fish; Hamnavoe Restaurant (Stromness, seasonal) for a refined final-night meal.
  • Tipples: Tours/tastings at Highland Park and Scapa; local ales from Orkney Brewery; gin cocktails at the Orkney Distillery bar.

Optional add-on experiences (if you’ll also visit the Andaman Islands)

These Viator activities aren’t in Orkney—but if your travels later take you to India’s Andaman Islands, they’re excellent, well-reviewed options to bookmark:

Scuba Diving For Beginners Or Non Swimmers (Havelock Island)


Scuba Diving For Beginners Or Non Swimmers on Viator

Mangroves Kayaking At Havelock (Havelock Island)

Mangroves Kayaking At Havelock on Viator

Hinterland Cycling Tour, Havelock

Hinterland Cycling Tour, Havelock on Viator

Seasonal and practical tips: Puffins nest April–July at Marwick Head and the Brough of Birsay. Maeshowe, distilleries, and Hamnavoe often require advance booking, especially in summer. Always check ferry timetables and weather; coastal paths can be exposed—pack layers, waterproofs, and good footwear.

In a week, you’ll trace Orkney from Norse sagas to Neolithic stonework, from cathedral bells to sea-cliff birdsong. The islands reward curiosity—every bay, broch, or bothy seems to hold another story. Leave a little unplanned time; that’s when Orkney shows you its quiet magic.


Ready to book your trip?

Search Hotels
Search Homes

Traveling somewhere else?

Generate a custom itinerary