7 Days in Scotland: Edinburgh’s Storybook Streets to Inverness and the Highlands
Scotland wears its history openly—on castle ramparts, in Enlightenment squares, and along windswept lochs where legends still ripple. From the medieval lanes of Edinburgh to the gateway-to-the-Highlands city of Inverness, this 7-day itinerary balances world-class museums, coastal day trips, and cinematic Highland scenery.
Edinburgh, Scotland’s capital, rose from a volcanic ridge, crowned by a fortress that has witnessed 1,000 years of intrigue. Its Old Town and New Town are UNESCO-listed for good reason; both hold outstanding architecture, literary landmarks, and hidden courtyards where time seems to stall. A quick train north brings you to Inverness, base for exploring Loch Ness, Culloden, and the Isle of Skye’s otherworldly landscapes.
Expect hearty breakfasts, exceptional seafood, single-malt whisky, and warm pubs. Pack for changeable weather (layers and waterproofs), carry a contactless card (widely accepted), and remember UK plugs are type G. Trains are efficient, roads are left-hand drive, and the best views often arrive between the lines on your map.
Edinburgh
Edinburgh is equal parts Gothic drama and Enlightenment grace. The Royal Mile leads from Holyrood Palace to the Castle, threading through wynds and closes that once hid merchants and poets; the Georgian New Town is all symmetry and salons. Come for the history, stay for the city’s creative spirit—festivals, contemporary dining, and some of the finest whisky bars in the UK.
- Top sights: Edinburgh Castle, Royal Mile, St Giles’ Cathedral, National Museum of Scotland, Calton Hill, Dean Village, Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh.
- Why it’s special: A compact, walkable capital packed with stories—from Mary, Queen of Scots to J.K. Rowling—plus easy day trips to coasts, golf links, and fishing villages.
- Dining notes: From nose-to-tail Scottish fare to modern tasting menus, Edinburgh’s restaurants champion local farms, North Sea seafood, and seasonal produce.
Where to stay (Edinburgh):
- The Balmoral Hotel (classic five-star at Waverley): Check rates
- Novotel Edinburgh Centre (reliable and central): Check rates
- The Grassmarket Hotel (fun, Old Town location): Check rates
- Castle Rock Hostel (budget, near the Castle): Check rates
- Browse apartments and townhouses: VRBO Edinburgh | Hotels: Hotels.com Edinburgh
How to get to Edinburgh: Fly into Edinburgh (EDI). For Europe flights and trains, compare on Omio (flights) and Omio (trains). For long-haul, check Trip.com or Kiwi.com. From EDI to city center, the tram takes ~35 minutes; taxis/Uber ~30 minutes depending on traffic.
Day 1: Arrival, Royal Mile Ramble, and Classic Scottish Fare
Afternoon: Arrive and settle into your hotel. Stretch your legs with a gentle walk along the Royal Mile, pausing at St Giles’ Cathedral to admire its crown spire. Duck into narrow closes like Advocate’s Close for postcard views down to Princes Street.
Evening: Dinner at Howies Victoria Street (seasonal Scottish—try the cullen skink and venison) or The Devil’s Advocate hidden in Advocate’s Close (modern Scottish plates, superb whisky list; staff can guide you through Speyside vs. Islay). Nightcap at Whiski Rooms above the Mound for a curated dram flight.
Day 2: Castle, Old Town Stories, and Chef’s Table in Leith
Morning: Coffee at The Milkman (grab a window perch), then take a guided Castle visit:
Edinburgh Castle Guided Walking Tour in English — skip the line and dive into 3,000 years of history, from Mons Meg to the Crown Jewels. Duration ~1.5 hours.

Afternoon: Explore the National Museum of Scotland (free; dazzling galleries from natural history to design). Lunch at Makars Mash Bar (Scottish sausages & slow-cooked stews over buttery mash) or grab a roast pork roll from Oink on Victoria Street.
Evening: An intimate eight-course supper in Leith’s port district:
Scotland meets Sardinia: 8-course Dinner with Professional Chef — a Michelin-experienced chef cooks a seasonal Sardinian-Scottish tasting menu at home. A memorable, convivial alternative to dining out.

Day 3: New Town, Dean Village, Botanic Gardens, and the Vaults
Morning: Stroll past Georgian townhouses in the New Town, then wander Dean Village along the Water of Leith—storybook tranquility minutes from Princes Street. Brunch/coffee in Stockbridge at Urban Angel (eggs and great baking) or Artisan Roast (serious beans).
Afternoon: Head to the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh (glasshouses and heritage trees). If it’s Sunday, browse Stockbridge Market for local cheeses, pies, and small-batch chocolates. Late-afternoon oysters at Ondine Oyster & Grill near the Royal Mile.
Evening: Go beneath the city into its infamous vaults:
Underground Vaults Walking Tour in Edinburgh Old Town — a guide shares darker chapters of Old Town and leads you into the hidden South Bridge vaults.

After, warm up with a dram at The Bow Bar (cask ales and serious whisky selection).
Day 4: Day Trip to St Andrews & Fife Fishing Villages
Full-day small-group excursion to grand university quads, a cliff-top castle, and East Neuk harbors.
St Andrews & the Fishing Villages of Fife Small-Group Day Tour from Edinburgh — see the Old Course, cathedral ruins, and harbor towns like Anstruther. Allow ~9–10 hours.

Back in Edinburgh, treat yourself to The Scran & Scallie in Stockbridge (gastropub comfort—steak pie, fish & chips) or book a seasonal tasting at Fhior (Nordic-Scottish sensibility; foraged flavors).
Inverness
Inverness sits astride the River Ness, a compact Highland capital with a castle (scaffolding as redevelopment progresses), pedestrian-friendly streets, and easy access to the Great Glen. It’s your springboard to Loch Ness, Culloden Battlefield, and epic day tours to the Isle of Skye.
- Top sights: Ness Islands, Inverness Museum & Art Gallery, Leakey’s Bookshop, Victorian Market, Clava Cairns, Culloden Moor, Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle.
- Food & drink: Highland beef, Moray Firth seafood, craft beer (Black Isle Brewery), and cozy pubs with live music.
- Why base here: Excellent roads and tour options into Skye and the central Highlands without changing hotels.
Getting from Edinburgh to Inverness (Day 5 morning): Take the train from Edinburgh Waverley to Inverness (3h30–4h). Advance fares typically ~£25–£50; compare and book on Omio (trains). Buses take ~3h45–4h15 and can be cheaper—check Omio (buses). If you’re flying within Europe, see Omio (flights), or use Trip.com for long-haul planning.
Where to stay (Inverness):
- Ness Walk Hotel (riverside elegance): Check rates
- Kingsmills Hotel (spa and space, short walk from center): Check rates
- Black Isle Hostel (budget, central): Check rates
- Browse more stays: Hotels.com Inverness | VRBO Inverness
Day 5: Train North, Ness River Walks, and Highland Flavors
Morning: Board a morning train to Inverness (aim for a window on the left for coastal Fife and Cairngorm views). Grab pastries and takeaway coffee from Union Brew Lab before departure.
Afternoon: Drop bags, then wander the Ness Islands via suspension bridges—lovely even in drizzle. Pop into Leakey’s Bookshop, a former church stacked with maps and out-of-print treasures. Explore the Victorian Market for local crafts and snacks.
Evening: Dinner at Rocpool (smart seasonal—hand-dived scallops, Highland beef) or The Mustard Seed (converted church with mezzanine; hearty favorites). For wood-fired pizza and craft beer, try Black Isle Bar & Rooms.
Day 6: Full-Day Isle of Skye and Eilean Donan Castle
Leave the city for sea cliffs, faerie pools, and one of Scotland’s most photogenic castles on a guided day tour:
Inverness: The Isle of Skye and Eilean Donan Castle — cross to Skye, take in Kilt Rock and the Old Man of Storr, and stop at Eilean Donan. Expect 12 hours with scenic pauses and time in Portree.

Tip: In Portree, grab fish & chips by the harbor or a soup-and-sandwich at Café Arriba if time allows. Back in Inverness, a late bite at MacGregor’s Bar paired with live trad music is a fine nightcap.
Day 7: Loch Ness, Culloden, and Departure
Morning: Take a quick jaunt to Loch Ness. You can bus or taxi to Urquhart Castle for stellar views and combine with a loch cruise. Alternatively, head east to Culloden Battlefield for a thoughtful visitor experience and continue to the Bronze Age Clava Cairns under ancient beeches.
Afternoon: Lunch at Perk Coffee & Doughnuts or a relaxed meal back at The Mustard Seed. Depart from Inverness by train (3h30–4h to Edinburgh via Omio trains) or fly onward (compare Europe routes on Omio flights; long-haul via Trip.com or Kiwi.com).
Evening: If your flight is late, squeeze in a riverside stroll for last looks at the castle’s silhouette and a final Highland dram.
Optional Edinburgh experiences (if you swap days or extend):
- Glenfinnan Viaduct day trip to see the “Harry Potter” train: Full-Day Trip: Glenfinnan Viaduct & The Highlands
Dining shortlist to bookmark:
- Edinburgh breakfasts/coffee: The Milkman; Fortitude Coffee; Urban Angel (granola, eggs, excellent baking).
- Edinburgh lunches: Makars Mash Bar; Oink; The Outsider (castle views, bistro classics).
- Edinburgh dinners: The Scran & Scallie; Fhior; Ondine Oyster & Grill; The Devil’s Advocate.
- Inverness café/bites: Perk Coffee & Doughnuts; Velocity Café (light, veggie-friendly).
- Inverness dinners: Rocpool; The Mustard Seed; Black Isle Bar & Rooms.
Transport tips:
- Book long-distance trains early on Omio for the best Advance fares. Reserve seats if traveling at peak times.
- If driving the Highlands, roads are often single carriageway—allow buffer time and watch for sheep. Parking in central Edinburgh is limited; walking and buses are easier.
- Consider a lightweight daypack, waterproof shell, and comfortable, grippy shoes for cobbles and wet trails.
In one week, you’ll have scaled castle walls, traced royal processions and Enlightenment debates, sailed myth-dark waters, and crossed into island realms where mountains meet the sea. Keep the appetite for “just one more view”—in Scotland, the next bend often delivers it. Slàinte mhath, and haste ye back.