7 Days in Réunion: La Possession, Maïdo, and the Volcano Coast

A one-week Indian Ocean itinerary pairing La Possession’s emerald peaks and Mafate viewpoints with Saint-Pierre’s sunny south for volcano hikes, lava tunnels, and market-to-table Creole cuisine.

Réunion, a French island in the Indian Ocean east of Madagascar, fuses volcano-carved mountains, tropical forests, and coral lagoons into a compact paradise. Settled in the 17th century and shaped by African, Malagasy, Indian, Chinese, and European influences, it’s a place where you can hike ridgelines in the morning and swim a warm lagoon by late afternoon.


La Possession anchors the northwest, close to the dizzying Cap Noir viewpoint over the Mafate cirque and the cobbled Chemin des Anglais. In the south, Saint-Pierre is your springboard to the lunar slopes of Piton de la Fournaise, one of the world’s most active volcanoes, and to the wild lava coast of Sainte-Rose.

Expect microclimates—pack for sun, wind, and sudden showers—and drive slowly on mountain roads. Cyclone season runs roughly January–March; trails and roads can close temporarily. Fuel up on cari (Creole curries), rougail saucisse, samoussas, and rhum arrangé at markets and local “tables d’hôtes,” and you’ll taste the island’s soul.

La Possession

Perched between sea and serrated peaks, La Possession puts you minutes from legendary viewpoints. The Cap Noir–Roche Verre Bouteille trail delivers a sweeping balcony over Mafate, while the historic Chemin des Anglais—built of basalt blocks in the 1700s—traverses dry savannah dotted with endemic flora.

Food-wise, base yourself near the coast for easy access to the west’s best bites: market stalls in Saint-Paul, boulangeries in Saint-Gilles-les-Bains, and seafood grills overlooking the lagoon. Whale season (June–October) can bring breeches visible from coastal cliffs.

  • Top sights: Cap Noir (Dos d’Âne), Maïdo viewpoint, Saint-Paul Market (Fri–Sat), L’Ermitage lagoon.
  • Good to know: Start mountain drives before sunrise to beat cloud build-up after 10:00.
  • Where to stay: Browse VRBO La Possession or compare hotels on Hotels.com La Possession.
  • Getting in: Fly into RUN (Roland Garros, Saint-Denis). From Europe, compare fares on Omio (often 11–12 hours nonstop from Paris); from elsewhere, check Trip.com and Kiwi.com. Airport to La Possession is ~25 minutes by car; expect €35–60/day for rentals.

Saint-Pierre

Sunny, colorful Saint-Pierre is the south’s easygoing capital. Its waterfront promenade mixes cafés, street art, and sundown joggers, while the Saturday market fills with spices, fruit, and fresh beignets. Inland, roads climb through lunar plains toward Piton de la Fournaise.


Use Saint-Pierre as a base for the volcano and the east coast’s lava fields—then reset with a salty breeze at Grande Anse’s coconut grove. Terre-Sainte, the old fishing quarter, hides murals by street artist Jace (the mischievous “Gouzou” figures are local icons).

  • Top sights: Piton de la Fournaise (Pas de Bellecombe), Grand Brûlé lava flows, Anse des Cascades, Grande Anse beach (scenic picnic spot, limited swimming).
  • Where to stay: See VRBO Saint-Pierre and Hotels.com Saint-Pierre.
  • Taste this: cari poulet, rougail saucisse, swordfish steaks, chouchou (chayote) gratin from Salazie, and bonbons piment with a cold Bourbon beer.

Day 1: Arrival — Settle into La Possession and the West Coast

Afternoon: Land at RUN and pick up your car. Check into your La Possession stay (Dos d’Âne if you want mountain air; coast if you prefer easy beach access). Stretch your legs on a short stroll along Cap La Houssaye’s cliffs for golden-hour views and, in season (Jun–Oct), possible whale spouts offshore.

Evening: Dinner by the lagoon near Saint-Gilles-les-Bains. For a relaxed seafood feast, book Le D.C.P. for grilled marlin, tuna tataki, and rum arrangé; or go a notch finer at Le Manta for reef-fish in vanilla sauce and caramelized bananas. Grab dessert to-go from the beloved bakery Chez Loulou (try the coconut-filled “douceurs”).

Day 2: Maïdo Sunrise and Mafate Balcony Walk

Morning: Rise before dawn and head up to the Maïdo viewpoint for sunrise over the Mafate amphitheater. If you’d prefer not to drive the switchbacks, consider this private transfer:

Round trip to Maïdo with private driver


Round trip to Maïdo with private driver on Viator

After sunrise, walk a portion of the Cap Noir–Roche Verre Bouteille ridge (ladders and railings in places; sturdy shoes essential) for vertiginous Mafate views.

Afternoon: Drop down to the coast for the Saint-Paul Market (Fri–Sat only): sample samoussas, fresh sugarcane juice, and “bonbons piment.” When the heat peaks, cool off with a snorkel in the calm L’Ermitage lagoon (marked areas and fish-rich coral gardens).

Evening: Sunset apéritif on the beach (local favorite: rhum arrangé with combava lime) and dinner at Le Manta if you didn’t go last night—or try casual beach grills for swordfish skewers and “gratin chouchou.”

Day 3: Salazie’s Waterfalls and Creole Houses

Morning: Drive ~1h30 from La Possession to Salazie via RD48, stopping at Voile de la Mariée, a lacework of waterfalls draping the cliff. Continue to Hell-Bourg, often listed among France’s most beautiful villages, to tour gingerbread-trimmed Creole houses and gardens.

Afternoon: For a relaxed, guided day that adds context (and driving relief), book:


Private Tour of Salazie with a Driver Guide

Private Tour of Salazie with a Driver Guide on Viator

Lunch on chouchou specials (the valley’s emblematic chayote): try gratin, fritters, or a hearty cari zourite (octopus stew) at a village table d’hôtes. If skies stay clear, add a short forest walk toward Bélouve’s edge for fern forests and tree ferns.

Evening: Return to the west for a relaxed dinner; if you’re up for a splurge, the restaurant at Blue Margouillat in Saint-Leu pairs refined island flavors with a superb wine list and ocean-view terrace.

Day 4: West-to-South Road Trip — L’Étang-Salé, Saint-Leu, and Into Saint-Pierre

Morning (transfer day): Depart La Possession for Saint-Pierre (~1.5 hours via N1). Break at L’Étang-Salé’s black-sand beach and walk to Le Gouffre, a natural lava blowhole where waves thunder into a narrow chasm.

Afternoon: Stop in Saint-Leu to visit Kélonia (turtle observatory) and grab a lagoon-side lunch—think bouchons (Reunionese dumplings), samoussas, and fresh fruit smoothies from seafront kiosks. Continue to Saint-Pierre and check into your lodging near the promenade or Terre-Sainte.


Evening: Stroll the waterfront as the sky pinks up, then dine at a lively brasserie along the marina. For something upbeat with local beers and Creole plates, look for spots with live sega music nights and menus featuring rougail saucisse and marlin tartare.

Day 5: Piton de la Fournaise — The Volcano Day

Few landscapes anywhere rival the surreal, rust-red plains and craters of Piton de la Fournaise. It’s a long, spectacular day; start by 6:00–6:30. From Saint-Pierre, allow ~2–2.5 hours to reach Pas de Bellecombe, with photo stops across Plaine des Cafres and the lunar Plaine des Sables. For a safe, insightful hike, join a certified mountain guide:

Hike: On the Piton de la Fournaise volcano

Hike: On the Piton de la Fournaise volcano on Viator

Bring layers, sun protection, 2L water/person, and a picnic. If hikes are not your thing, take in the astonishing panoramas from Pas de Bellecombe and short rim walks, then warm up with a vanilla-infused hot chocolate at a refuge café on the return.

Evening: Back in Saint-Pierre, unwind with a seaside apéritif and grilled fish. Terre-Sainte’s smaller restaurants often serve excellent cari poulet and carry house-made rhum arrangé—ask about flavors like cinnamon, kaffir lime, or passion fruit.


Day 6: The Lava Coast — Sainte-Rose Tunnels and Anse des Cascades

Morning: Drive the east coast’s Grand Brûlé, where successive eruptions poured black rivers of rock to the sea. For an unforgettable underground adventure, explore cooled lava tubes with volcanology-trained instructors:

Discovery of the lava tubes 2004 of Piton de la Fournaise

Discovery of the lava tubes 2004 of Piton de la Fournaise on Viator

Afternoon: Picnic at palm-fringed Anse des Cascades, where fresh waterfalls tumble into a sheltered cove. Visit Notre-Dame des Laves, the church partly encased by the 1977 flow—a powerful snapshot of life on an active island.

Evening: Return to Saint-Pierre for street food along the promenade: try “sarcives” (marinated pork), shark samoussas (if available and sustainably sourced), and sweet cassava cakes. Cap it with artisanal ice cream in tropical flavors like letchi (lychee) or combava.

Day 7: Morning by the Sea, Then Departure

Morning: Drive 25 minutes to Grande Anse (near Petite-Île) to wander a postcard curve of sand lined with coconut palms. There’s a family-friendly bassin (tidal pool) at one end; always heed flags and lifeguards. Alternatively, linger over a late breakfast in Saint-Pierre: fresh croissants, café noir, and a warm baguette with local jams (guava, passion fruit).


Afternoon: Check out and drive north to RUN (~1.5 hours). If time allows, pause in Saint-Denis for a last stroll beneath mango trees on Rue de Paris, admiring Creole mansions before your flight. Compare flight times and prices on Omio (to/from Europe) or Trip.com and Kiwi.com for other routes.

Optional/Swap-In Experiences (If You Have Extra Energy)

Where to Eat and Drink — A Few Reliable Favorites

  • Breakfast/coffee: Chez Loulou (Saint-Gilles-les-Bains) for pastries and strong espresso; market stalls at Saint-Paul or Saint-Pierre for fresh fruit juices and beignets.
  • Lunch: Seafront kiosks in Saint-Leu and L’Ermitage for samoussas, bouchons, and grilled swordfish with rougail.
  • Dinner: Le D.C.P. (Saint-Gilles) for seafood, Le Manta (L’Ermitage) for polished Creole-French plates; in Saint-Pierre, pick marina-facing brasseries for cari of the day and local lagers.
  • Sweet things: Sorbets in seasonal island fruits—mango, letchi, passion fruit—at beachfront gelaterias.

Getting Around and Practical Tips

  • Driving: Coastal highways are fast; mountain roads are narrow and winding. Start early for Maïdo, Salazie, and the volcano.
  • Buses: The Car Jaune network connects major towns but is not ideal for pre-dawn mountain starts; self-drive or private tours are best for this itinerary.
  • Costs: Fuel is regulated; car rentals typically €35–60/day. Guided day tours vary—check inclusions (breakfast, transfers, group size).
  • Safety: Sun is intense at altitude; carry water, a hat, and sunscreen. Trails can close in bad weather or after eruptions—adhere to posted notices.

Book These 4 Great Tours Featured Above

In one week, you’ll crest Maïdo at sunrise, wander Salazie’s ferny folds, crunch across volcanic ash, and picnic under palms by the sea. Réunion rewards early starts and an appetite for both mountain air and Creole markets—this itinerary balances them beautifully.

Keep your plans flexible for weather, pack curiosity with your hiking shoes, and you’ll leave with a camera full of peaks, craters, and blue lagoons—and a craving for one more samoussa before you go.

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