Peshawar, capital of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, is one of South Asia’s oldest living cities—an ancient caravan stop linking Central Asia and the subcontinent. Empires have passed through its gates for millennia, leaving Buddhist relics, Mughal mosques, Sikh-era havelis, and a storied bazaar culture.

Today, the city thrums with the scent of cardamom tea and sizzling tikka in Namak Mandi, the call to prayer echoing off the marble of Mahabat Khan Mosque, and the soft hush of Gandhara sculptures in the Peshawar Museum. It’s a place where hospitality is a creed: guests are honored with green tea, bread warm from the tandoor, and tall tales at Qissa Khwani—“the Bazaar of Storytellers.”

Practical note: Check current travel advisories, carry ID, and dress modestly. Some sites (e.g., Bala Hisar Fort or the Khyber corridor) may require permits or have restricted hours for security; verify locally a day or two before you go. Winters are crisp and ideal for walks; summers are hot—plan midday breaks.

Peshawar

Why go: For living history at street level—Mughal mosques, Sikh-era merchant mansions, Gandharan art, and bazaars full of dry fruit, attar, and handmade Peshawari chappals.

• Top sights: Peshawar Museum (Gandhara masterpieces), Mahabat Khan Mosque, Qissa Khwani Bazaar, Sethi House, Gor Khatri archaeological complex, Bala Hisar Fort (museum access varies), Shahi Bagh, Islamia College campus (with permission).
• Signature bites: Namak Mandi lamb karahi, Shinwari tikka, chapli kebab, Kabuli pulao, Peshawari kehwa (green tea), jalebi and kulfi from old-city sweet shops.
• Fun fact: Qissa Khwani became famous as a caravanserai where traders swapped stories—many families here still trace roots across Afghanistan and Central Asia.

Where to stay: Search centralized options in Saddar or University Town for easy access to the old city. Browse a range of stays on Hotels.com or apartment-style stays on VRBO. Notable properties many travelers consider include Pearl Continental Peshawar (for security and dining), Shelton’s Rezidor, and boutique guesthouses in University Town.

How to get there: Fly into Bacha Khan International Airport (PEW). From Karachi (~2h05, roughly $45–120), Lahore (~1h10, $35–90), or Dubai (~3h, $120–300) search fares on Trip.com Flights or Kiwi.com. From Islamabad, consider a private car via M‑1 (2–3 hours, $20–40) or a coach service (about 2.5–3 hours; budget $5–10). Pakistan Railways runs services to Peshawar Cantt; schedules can vary—verify locally. For rail elsewhere in Asia, see Trip.com Trains.

Day 1: Arrival, Saddar stroll, and Namak Mandi fire-cooked lamb

Morning: In transit.

Afternoon: Arrive and check in. Shake off the journey with a gentle walk through Saddar Bazaar: fabric stalls, spice shops, and cobblers stitching the famous Peshawari chappal. Pause for Peshawari kehwa at a traditional tea stall or grab a latte at Second Cup in Saddar if you’re craving espresso.

Evening: Head to Namak Mandi—the city’s meaty heart. Order lamb karahi and tikka at the legendary Nisar Charsi Tikka: cuts are cooked over wood charcoal, finished simply with salt, tomatoes, chilies, and a flourish of tallow. Pair with roghni naan and salad; finish with green tea. Early night to reset.

Day 2: Old City immersion—Mahabat Khan, Qissa Khwani, Peshawar Museum, Sethi House

Morning: Start at Mahabat Khan Mosque, a 17th‑century Mughal gem with an elegant white marble courtyard—arrive outside prayer times. Continue into Qissa Khwani Bazaar, browsing dry fruits (almonds, pine nuts), copperware, and attar. Try paratha and chana from a street-side tandoor and sip kehwa with cardamom.

Afternoon: Explore the Peshawar Museum, home to one of the world’s finest Gandhara collections—look for the famed Fasting Buddha and narrative reliefs from ancient monasteries. Walk to Sethi House, a restored 19th‑century merchant mansion with carved jharokas and stained glass that speaks to Peshawar’s trading past.

Evening: Dinner near the museum area: Usmania Restaurant for Kabuli pulao crowned with carrots and raisins, or Habibi Restaurant for family-style platters of karahi and kebabs. For dessert, sample jalebi or kulfi from an old-city mithai shop. Nightcap: another round of kehwa.

Day 3: Bala Hisar Fort, Gor Khatri, and chapli kebab perfection

Morning: Attempt a visit to Bala Hisar Fort (museum access and hours can change; carry ID and confirm the day before). The site overlooks the city and the historic approach to the Khyber. If closed, substitute with a deeper wander along the Heritage Trail threading old havelis and restored gateways.

Afternoon: Walk up to Gor Khatri, a hilltop caravanserai-turned-archaeological site with layers from Buddhist to Mughal eras. Climb the watchtowers for city views. Lunch on Peshawar’s signature chapli kebab at Jalil Kabab House—a crisp, spice-laced patty of minced beef or mutton, often studded with tomato and coriander, served with naan and chutney.

Evening: Unwind at Shahi Bagh, a historic garden where families stroll at dusk. For dinner, choose a Shinwari-style spot along University Road for namkeen (salted) lamb ribs and karahi cooked in animal fat for depth. Sweet finish: falooda from a popular street vendor on the way back.

Day 4: Day trip to UNESCO-listed Takht‑i‑Bahi (Mardan)

Morning: Depart by car around 7:30 a.m. for Takht‑i‑Bahi (about 1.5–2 hours via M‑1/Mardan). This UNESCO World Heritage monastic complex (1st century BCE onward) crowns a ridge with atmospheric courtyards, meditation cells, and votive stupas. Bring water, hat, and good shoes; there are stairs and sun exposure.

Afternoon: Lunch in Mardan—ask for Kabuli pulao or a mild mutton karahi at a reputable family restaurant. If time allows, detour to the Hund area on the Indus for river views and a quick museum stop (check opening days) before driving back.

Evening: Back in Peshawar, relax over coffee, cake, and conversation at Café Crunch in University Town—a reliable local hangout. Light dinner: try a chicken karahi half-portion or grilled fish in season.

Day 5: Crafts, campuses, and contemporary Peshawar

Morning: Visit artisans who make Peshawari chappals in Saddar or Jahangir Pura Market; you can have a pair custom-fitted in a couple of hours. Browse fabric and shawl shops for souvenirs—ask for handwoven khaddar and embroidered caps.

Afternoon: With prior permission, tour the red-brick Islamia College campus (est. 1913), a masterpiece of Indo-Saracenic architecture. Nearby, the University of Peshawar area offers bookshops and casual eateries for a student-life snapshot. Lunch at Usmania or a University Road café—try dumplings known locally as mantu if available.

Evening: Dinner at Bukhara (in Pearl Continental Peshawar) for an elevated take on regional barbecue and breads in a courtyard setting; alternative: a local Shinwari grill for a more rustic experience. Round it off with rabri or kheer from a trusted mithai shop.

Day 6: The Khyber doorway—or riverside Sardaryab

Morning: Option A (with permits and security escort): Arrange a licensed operator to visit Bab‑e‑Khyber and Jamrud Fort at the mouth of the Khyber Pass. Foreign visitors typically require a No Objection Certificate (NOC) and may be accompanied by security; start early and carry passports. Option B (no permits needed): Drive to Sardaryab near Charsadda for a serene Kabul River boat ride in traditional wooden boats.

Afternoon: If on the Khyber route, take photos at the arch and learn about the pass’s fabled caravans and campaigns from your guide; avoid lingering or unsolicited side trips. If in Sardaryab, enjoy a riverside lunch—simple fried fish, naan, salad, and chai are the order of the day.

Evening: Back in town, decompress with kehwa at a Qissa Khwani tea stall as the bazaar lights come on. Casual dinner: Chief Burger on University Road for a dose of classic Pakistani fast food history, or a small karahi house if you’re keeping it traditional.

Day 7: Last tastes and keepsakes, then depart

Morning: Breakfast of hot halwa puri with chana at a trusted spot near Saddar, followed by a quick loop through Qissa Khwani for final purchases—dry fruits, spices, and perhaps a small copper tray.

Afternoon: If you missed it, pop back into the Peshawar Museum for a last look at the Gandhara galleries. Transfer to PEW for your afternoon departure. For future trips, save your favorite hotels on Hotels.com or set fare alerts on Trip.com Flights.

Evening: In transit.

Local dining short list (save these):

• Nisar Charsi Tikka (Namak Mandi): Wood-fired lamb karahi and tikka; go early for the best cuts.
• Jalil Kabab House: Benchmark chapli kebab—crisp edges, juicy center, tomato-studded.
• Usmania Restaurant: Reliable for Kabuli pulao, karahi, and family platters.
• Habibi Restaurant: Crowd-pleasing barbecue and curries with quick service.
• Bukhara (Pearl Continental): Polished setting for regional grills and naan.
• Café Crunch: Coffee, cakes, and light meals in University Town.
• Second Cup (Saddar/University Rd): Espresso drinks if you need a Western-style coffee fix.

Getting around: Use ride‑hailing (Careem) or registered taxis for cross-city trips; rickshaws are convenient for short hops. Carry small bills. Friday prayers can affect hours in the old city; dress conservatively and always ask before photographing people.

This 7-day Peshawar itinerary balances headline sights with everyday rhythms—mosques and museums by day, kebabs and kehwa by night, and a UNESCO hillside monastery to crown it all. You’ll leave with a suitcase scented like green tea and cardamom, and a new appreciation for the stories that still animate the Bazaar of Storytellers.