Northumberland is England’s wild, wide-open north: a frontier shaped by Romans, medieval border wars, and the tidal beat of the North Sea. Here, castles perch on dunes, abbeys tell of ancient saints, and milecastles stitch the landscape along Hadrian’s Wall. It’s a county where the stars still dazzle—home to Europe’s largest area of protected dark skies.

Fun fact: Alnwick Castle doubled as Hogwarts in the early Harry Potter films, while Holy Island (Lindisfarne) fostered the Lindisfarne Gospels and the spread of Christianity to Anglo-Saxon England. Seabirds still rule the Farne Islands, where puffins and grey seals fill spring and summer with raucous life.

Practical notes: pack layers and waterproofs, and check Holy Island’s causeway times before you go. Car-free travelers can do this itinerary using trains and buses; book popular restaurants and stargazing sessions ahead. Expect hearty local fare—line-caught fish, Craster kippers, Northumbrian lamb, and excellent indie coffee.

Alnwick

Base yourself in Alnwick for storybook scenery: Alnwick Castle and its modern Garden, sprawling book emporium Barter Books, and easy bus links to Bamburgh, Seahouses, Craster, and Alnmouth. The town’s stone lanes hide good bistros, pubs pouring local ales, and a magical Treehouse restaurant suspended in the woods.

• Top sights: Alnwick Castle (state rooms, film locations, broomstick lessons), The Alnwick Garden (Poison Garden tour, Grand Cascade), Barter Books (in a Victorian rail station).
• Nearby gems: Bamburgh Castle and beach, Farne Islands boat trips (puffins Apr–July, seals year-round), Craster-to-Dunstanburgh coastal walk, Howick Hall (home of Earl Grey), Alnmouth bay at sunset.
• Eat & drink: The Treehouse Restaurant (fairy-lit walkways, local produce); The Dirty Bottles (modern gastropub plates, craft beers); Caffè Tirreno (casual Italian); Mivesi (excellent Indian in the Market Place); Barter Books’ Station Buffet (scones, soup, and nostalgia).
• Where to stay: Browse stays in Alnwick on VRBO and Hotels.com.
• Getting there: Fly to Newcastle (NCL) or Edinburgh (EDI). From within Europe, search fares on Omio (flights); from outside Europe, compare on Trip.com (flights) or Kiwi.com. Then take a train to Alnmouth (for Alnwick) via Omio (trains)—London to Alnmouth 3.5–4h (~£40–90 advance), Edinburgh ~1h15 (~£15–35), Newcastle ~30min (~£7–12). Taxi or bus from Alnmouth to Alnwick: 10–15min taxi (~£12–18) or ~15min by local bus (~£3–4) via Omio (buses).

Day 1: Arrival, Barter Books, and Alnwick’s Market Town

Morning: Travel into Northumberland. Grab train snacks and a window seat—the coastal views north of Newcastle are a postcard.

Afternoon: Check in, then stretch your legs at Barter Books, one of Britain’s largest second-hand bookshops in a former rail station. Watch the model trains circle above as you browse; cappuccino and a toasted teacake at the Station Buffet are a gentle arrival ritual.

Evening: Dine under twinkling walkways at The Treehouse Restaurant (book ahead; wood-fired mains and local venison feature). Prefer casual? Try The Dirty Bottles for Northumbrian burgers and seasonal small plates, then a nightcap at The Market Tavern.

Day 2: Alnwick Castle and The Alnwick Garden

Morning: Enter Alnwick Castle as it opens (allow 3–4 hours). Join a film locations tour (Harry Potter, Downton Abbey), climb the ramparts, and—if running—book a broomstick lesson on the lawn. Adult tickets ~£20–25; family tickets and seasonal events available.

Afternoon: Walk next door to The Alnwick Garden. Start with a timed Poison Garden tour (fascinating folklore), then the Grand Cascade, rose and cherry orchards. Lunch at the Pavilion Café or, for treats, pop back to Barter Books’ buffet for cake. Garden tickets ~£17–22; combined offers sometimes available.

Evening: Early aperitivo at Lilburns Bar Restaurant (smart-casual, local game when in season), then dinner at Caffè Tirreno for wood-fired pizzas and hearty pasta. Stroll the cobbles around the Market Cross before turning in.

Day 3: Seahouses, Farne Islands, and Bamburgh Castle

Morning: Bus to Seahouses (~50min; X18/X20 via Omio). Coffee and a flaky almond croissant at the Ocean Club café, then board a Farne Islands boat (2–3h; ~£25–40). In spring/summer, expect puffins and guillemots; seal cruises run most of the year. Note: landings may be seasonally restricted due to bird flu—check locally.

Afternoon: Continue to Bamburgh (10min bus). Tour cliff-top Bamburgh Castle (~£15–17) and visit the RNLI Grace Darling Museum. Lunch at The Potted Lobster—think Lindisfarne oysters, lobster rolls, and North Sea fish cooked simply. Walk the wind-brushed beach with views to the Farne lighthouses.

Evening: Return to Alnwick by bus (~45–55min). Casual supper at Mivesi (tandoori grills and regional curries) or a pie and pint back at The Dirty Bottles.

Day 4: Craster, Dunstanburgh, Howick Hall, and Alnmouth

Morning: Bus to Craster (25–30min). Grab a flat white at The Jolly Fisherman and pick up hot-smoked kippers from L. Robson & Sons. Walk the coastal path to the dramatic ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle (about 1.3 miles each way; entry ~£7; exposed—bring layers).

Afternoon: Head to Howick Hall Gardens & Arboretum (home of Earl Grey), wander woodland walks, and sip a proper cup of Earl Grey in the tearoom. Continue to Alnmouth for colorful cottages and estuary views; lunch at Scotts of Alnmouth (sourdough sandwiches, local crab when available).

Evening: Back in Alnwick, relax with seasonal British plates at The Market Tavern Steakhouse & Lodge, or book the Treehouse if you missed it earlier. Early night—tomorrow you switch bases.

Hexham

Swap sea air for the Roman frontier. Hexham is a handsome market town with a grand abbey, indie shops, and easy access to Hadrian’s Wall country, The Sill landscape centre, Kielder’s dark skies, and storybook villages like Corbridge and Blanchland.

• Top sights: Hexham Abbey, Hexham Old Gaol, Corbridge village, Housesteads Fort, Vindolanda & the Roman Army Museum, The Sill: National Landscape Discovery Centre.
• Eat & drink: Bouchon Bistrot (classic French; multi-award-winning), The Beaumont (elegant seasonal dining), Heart of Northumberland (cask ales, hearty mains). For a splurge, book Hjem (Michelin-star tasting menu) in nearby Wall—taxis ~15min.
• Where to stay: See Hexham options on VRBO and Hotels.com.
• Getting from Alnwick to Hexham: Morning bus Alnwick→Newcastle (X18 ~1h20) then train Newcastle→Hexham (~35min). Total ~2h–2h20; ~£16–25 combined. Search with Omio (buses) and Omio (trains). Taxi direct is ~1h15 (~£90–110).

Day 5: Transfer to Hexham, Abbey and Market Lanes

Morning: Travel to Hexham (aim for an early bus/train combo). Drop bags and grab coffee at The Small World Café (good pastries, veggie-friendly).

Afternoon: Tour Hexham Abbey (Anglo-Saxon crypt, soaring nave) and pop into Hexham Old Gaol, England’s oldest purpose-built prison, for a brisk dive into border reiver history. Browse Hallstile Bank’s boutiques and the Victorian marketplace.

Evening: Dinner at Bouchon Bistrot (French classics—steak frites, cassoulet, crème brûlée) or The Beaumont for modern British plates. Digest with a pint at Heart of Northumberland before bed.

Day 6: Hadrian’s Wall—Housesteads, The Sill, and Vindolanda

Morning: In season (Apr–Oct), catch the AD122 Hadrian’s Wall bus from Hexham to Housesteads Fort (~35–50min). Off-season, take the train to Haltwhistle (25min) and a short taxi. Explore the fort, museum, and milecastle views over crags and moorland. Entry ~£12 (English Heritage; National Trust members often free at the car park).

Afternoon: Walk a scenic stretch (Steel Rigg is a classic) or head to The Sill for exhibits and rooftop views; lunch at the café or at the nearby Twice Brewed Inn (hearty meals, on-site brewery). Finish at Vindolanda, where letters and leather shoes reveal everyday Roman life; allow 1.5–2h. Entry ~£14.

Evening: Optional stargazing: book a session at the Twice Brewed Inn planetarium experience or, if you have wheels and a reservation, drive ~1h to Kielder Observatory for deep-sky viewing (sessions ~£29–32; dress very warm). Back in Hexham, light supper at The Tynedale bar or a taxi to Hjem for a special tasting (book weeks ahead).

Day 7: Corbridge and Aydon Castle, then Depart

Morning: Short train or bus to Corbridge (10–15min). Wander stone lanes, then coffee at Tea & Tipple (great traybakes). If time and season permit, detour to Aydon Castle, a fortified manor tucked in woods (English Heritage; check opening hours; taxi 10min).

Afternoon: Pick up picnic provisions at Grants Bakery, then return to Hexham for your bags. Depart via train to Newcastle (35min) and connect to the Metro for Newcastle Airport (total ~1h15; ~£7–12). Search rail and bus times on Omio (trains) and Omio (buses); for onward flights in Europe use Omio (flights), or from the UK to other continents compare on Trip.com and Kiwi.com.

Evening: If your schedule allows a late linger, toast the week with a final pint at Heart of Northumberland—otherwise, enjoy the Tyne views as your train rolls east to Newcastle.

Notes & Tips:

• Holy Island tides: Only cross the Lindisfarne causeway at safe times; never drive outside the published windows.
• Boat trips: Farne Islands sailings are weather-dependent; bring a windproof layer. Landing trips may carry National Trust fees.
• Tickets: Popular spots (Treehouse Restaurant, Kielder Observatory, Hjem) book out far in advance—reserve early.
• Car-free: This plan works with trains and buses via Omio (trains) and Omio (buses). Taxis fill rural gaps—ask your hotel for reliable local numbers.

In one week, you’ll experience Northumberland’s greatest hits: dune-top castles, ancient abbeys, seabird islands, and the long stone backbone of Hadrian’s Wall. The memories here are carved in sky and sea—best savored with a hot cuppa and sand in your shoes. Until next time.