7 Days in Nainital, Uttarakhand: Lakes, Forest Trails, and Kumaoni Flavors
Nainital—named for the eye-shaped Naini Lake—is a classic Himalayan hill station that has beckoned travelers since the mid-1800s. British-era cottages cling to forested slopes, while the lake mirrors cedar-green hills and pastel sunsets. At 2,000 meters, the town offers crisp mornings, misty afternoons, and starry, quiet nights.
Beyond the lake are freshwater gems—Bhimtal, Sattal, and Naukuchiatal—each with its own character. Birders flock to Pangot and Kilbury, where more than 300 Himalayan species are recorded, and day-trippers love Mukteshwar’s cliffs, temples, and waterfalls. Local Kumaoni dishes—aloo ke gutke, bhatt ki churkani, and jhangora kheer—anchor the region’s comfort-food soul.
Best months are March–June and September–November. Winters are cold; monsoon (July–August) brings rain and occasional landslides. Carry layers, sun protection, and comfortable walking shoes. ATMs and mobile data work well in town; UPI is widely accepted. Mall Road is pedestrian-only in the evening, so plan drop-offs/parking accordingly.
Nainital
Set around the emerald Naini Lake, Nainital balances nostalgic promenades with outdoor adventure. Mornings are for the ropeway to Snow View, afternoons for cave gardens and zoo visits, and evenings for lakeside strolls and sizzling plates at long-running eateries. The town is also a fine base for the “lakes circuit” and forested bird trails.
- Top sights: Naini Lake, Naina Devi Temple, Snow View Point (via ropeway), Tiffin Top (Dorothy’s Seat), Eco Cave Gardens, G.B. Pant High Altitude Zoo, St. John in the Wilderness, Hanuman Garhi.
- Great day trips: Bhimtal, Sattal, Naukuchiatal, Pangot & Kilbury Bird Sanctuary, Mukteshwar.
- What to eat: Kumaoni staples (aloo ke gutke, bhatt ki churkani), momos at Tibetan Market, honey-based desserts at Honey Hut, and classic multi-cuisine mainstays along the Mall.
Where to stay: Browse cabins, cottages, and hotels on VRBO or compare hotels on Hotels.com. Popular picks include The Naini Retreat (a former royal residence with sweeping lake views), Shervani Hilltop (family-friendly with gardens), The Manu Maharani (classic full-service stay), and Abbotsford (heritage homestay with cafe).
Getting there: Fly into Delhi, then continue to Nainital.
- Flights to Delhi: Search fares on Trip.com or Kiwi.com.
- Train to Kathgodam (KGM): From Delhi, chair-car/AC train takes ~5–6.5 hours; expect ₹800–1,400 per person. Search and book via Trip.com Trains. Then taxi 35 km/1.5 hours to Nainital (~₹1,500–2,200).
- By road from Delhi: Private transfer 300 km/6.5–8 hours depending on traffic (₹7,000–11,000 per car). Pantnagar (PGH) has limited flights; if available, flight 1 hour + 70 km/2 hours by road to Nainital.
Day 1: Arrival, Lakefront First Impressions
Morning: Travel to Nainital. If arriving by train, grab a quick bite at Kathgodam, then take a scenic taxi ride up pine-lined curves.
Afternoon: Check in and unwind. Stroll the Mall Road to orient yourself—peek into candle shops (Naina Candle House, Bara Bazaar lanes) and sample Bal Mithai and singori at a trusted sweet shop.
Evening: Sunset paddle or rowboat on Naini Lake (₹300–500 per 30 minutes). Offer a moment at Naina Devi Temple at the lake’s head. Dinner at Embassy Restaurant (since 1966; robust North Indian curries and sizzlers) or Sakley’s The Mountain Café (old-school bakery-café; wood-fired pizzas, pastries). Nightcap tea at Honey Hut (honey-lemon-ginger for the chilly air).
Day 2: Ropeway, Zoo, and Cave Gardens
Morning: Coffee and eggs at Cafe Chica (Abbotsford; hillside garden setting). Ride the Ropeway to Snow View Point for 180-degree Himalayan vistas; on a clear day you’ll spot Nanda Devi’s distant crown. Souvenir stalls sell woolens and wooden toys.
Afternoon: Visit G.B. Pant High Altitude Zoo (home to Himalayan black bear, snow leopard, red panda; modest uphill walk—consider a short taxi). Quick thukpa/momo lunch at Sonam’s in the Tibetan Market. Explore Eco Cave Gardens, a fun squeeze through lit natural caves with a small musical fountain in the evening.
Evening: Window-shop Tibetan Market and Bara Bazaar for candles, copperware, and wool shawls. Dinner at Machan (busy, reliable North Indian/Chinese) or Giannis Pure Veg (clean, crowd-pleasing thali and paneer mains). Grab hot gulab jamun from a street-side halwai on the way back.
Day 3: The Lakes Circuit—Bhimtal, Sattal, Naukuchiatal
Morning: Drive 45–60 minutes to Bhimtal. Walk the lakeside path; photograph the little island aquarium. Continue to Sattal (Seven Lakes) for kayaking or a quiet canoe (₹300–700). Birders should carry binoculars—kingfishers and barbets are common.
Afternoon: Lunch at iHeart Cafe Himalayas near Bhimtal (excellent coffee, sourdough sandwiches, cinnamon rolls). Head to Naukuchiatal for tandem paragliding over the nine-cornered lake; 5–10 minutes of flight typically costs ₹2,500–3,500 depending on season and GoPro add-ons.
Evening: Return to Nainital for dinner. Try Zooby’s Kitchen (butter chicken, kebabs, and phirni) or Simz Cafe (pasta, grilled chicken, and good veggie options). Warm up with masala chai along the promenade.
Day 4: Pangot & Kilbury—Himalayan Birding and Forest Walks
Morning: Early start to Pangot (15 km/45 minutes). Hire a local bird guide to spot cheer and koklass pheasants, Himalayan griffon, and minivets along Kilbury Road. Carry a light jacket; mornings are cool.
Afternoon: Homestyle lunch at Jungle Lore area or a small Pangot cafe; simple dal, roti, and seasonal sabzi hit the spot. Short forest walk to a viewpoint; respect trail etiquette and pack out all litter.
Evening: Back in Nainital, shop for artisanal candles and hand-knit caps in Bara Bazaar. Dinner at The Patio (Naini Retreat) for tandoor and terrace views, or tuck into Kumaoni plates—aloo ke gutke with bhang jeera chutney—at a local dhaba.
Day 5: Mukteshwar Day Trip—Temples, Cliffs, and Waterfalls
Morning: Drive ~2 hours to Mukteshwar. Start at the 350-year-old Mukteshwar Dham Temple; the ridge-line setting adds serenity. Walk to Chauli Ki Jali, dramatic cliffs popular for light rappelling and sweeping mountain panoramas.
Afternoon: Head to Bhalu Gaad Waterfall (easy-to-moderate trek; 30–45 minutes each way). Picnic by the pools—water shoes help on smooth rocks. Lunch at Cafe Chandi Mati (local trout when available, Kumaoni platters, and mountain herbs) or Chirping Tales Cafe (cozy coffee and views).
Evening: Stay for golden-hour colors at Chauli Ki Jali, then return to Nainital. Late dinner snack at Tibetan Market—steamed momos, soup, and hot chocolate on chilly nights.
Day 6: Heritage Corners and Easy Urban Trails
Morning: Tour the Raj Bhawan (Governor’s House) complex—English Gothic revival architecture with lawns and a golf course; check same-day ticket availability at the gate (guides and timing are limited; expect a modest entry fee). Continue to St. John in the Wilderness, a pine-shaded 19th-century church with stained glass.
Afternoon: Hike or horse-ride to Tiffin Top (Dorothy’s Seat) for lake-and-town panoramas. Alternatively, take a relaxed second spin through Eco Cave Gardens with kids. Lunch at Embassy for a classic sizzler or try a clean, hearty veg thali nearby.
Evening: “Taste of Nainital” food crawl: bun-tikki from a trusted Mallital snack stall, pakoras hot from the oil, jalebi for dessert, and a final cup at Honey Hut. If you prefer a sit-down dinner, Machan or The Patio remain reliable favorites.
Day 7: Sunrise Farewell and Departure
Morning: Sunrise at Hanuman Garhi—soft light over the valley and a quiet temple atmosphere. Last boat ride on Naini Lake or a lakeside coffee at Sakley’s to seal the memory.
Afternoon: Check out and depart for Kathgodam (1.5 hours) for your train to Delhi (~5–6.5 hours), or drive back to Delhi (6.5–8 hours). Build buffer time for mountain traffic. If flying onward, search departures on Trip.com or Kiwi.com.
Evening: If you’re overnighting in Delhi before your flight, consider a curated city or Taj experience (see optional Viator add-ons below).
Optional Pre/Post-Trip Add-Ons from Delhi (Viator)
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Old & New Delhi City Tour – Half or Full Day: Explore Jama Masjid, Chandni Chowk’s spice lanes, India Gate, and more with a private guide, tailoring time to your interests.
Book on Viator
Old & New Delhi City Tour – Half or Full Day Options Available on Viator -
Taj Mahal Day Tour from Delhi by Superfast Train: Roundtrip on the Gatimaan Express with a local guide—see the Taj Mahal and Agra Fort in a single, efficient day.
Book on Viator
Taj Mahal Day Tour from Delhi by Superfast Train - TOP RATED TOUR on Viator
Dining shortlist (save these):
- Sakley’s The Mountain Café: Heritage bakery-café; try the banoffee pie and wood-fired margherita.
- Embassy Restaurant: Old-school multi-cuisine; butter masala, sizzlers, and tandoor platters.
- Machan: Consistent curries and Indo-Chinese; good for families and groups.
- Honey Hut: Honey-infused desserts and warm drinks—great post-walk stop.
- Sonam’s Tibetan Market: Momo + thukpa comfort in cool weather.
- iHeart Cafe Himalayas (Bhimtal): Specialty coffee, cinnamon rolls, all-day breakfast—perfect on the lakes circuit.
- Cafe Chandi Mati (Mukteshwar): Kumaoni flavors and local produce; try millet rotis and seasonal greens.
Budgeting quick guide (per person estimates): Train Delhi–Kathgodam RT ₹1,600–2,800; taxis (KGM–Nainital RT + local) ₹3,500–6,000; paragliding ₹2,500–3,500; boats ₹300–500; entry fees (zoo, ropeway, Raj Bhawan, caves) ₹60–400 each; meals ₹300–1,000 depending on venue.
After a week, you’ll carry the lake’s green sheen in your eyes and the scent of deodar in your clothes. Nainital’s rhythm—oar strokes, temple bells, and the low chatter of evening promenades—follows you home. When you crave cool air and warm food again, you’ll know the way back.