Las Alpujarras, draped along the southern flanks of Spain’s Sierra Nevada, feels timeless—whitewashed villages clinging to terraced hillsides, chestnut groves, and medieval water channels (acequias) still feeding orchards. After the Reconquista, many Morisco families remained here, shaping the region’s architecture—flat slate roofs, chimneys with conical hats, labyrinthine lanes—and its culinary soul.

Travelers come for three essentials: village-hopping between Capileira, Bubión, and Pampaneira in the Poqueira Gorge; hiking beneath Mulhacén, mainland Spain’s highest peak; and sampling the air-cured PGI jamón of Trevélez. You’ll also find witchy folk art at Soportújar and mineral-rich waters at the 18th-century Balneario de Lanjarón.

Roads are sinuous but rewarding; buses link the main villages if you’d rather not drive. Expect sunny days, cool nights, and siesta closures in small shops. Pack layers, good footwear, and an appetite for hearty mountain fare—plato alpujarreño, stews, goat cheeses, local honey, and, of course, jamón.

Capileira

Perched at 1,436 meters, Capileira is the highest of the Poqueira villages and a superb base for hikes into the high Sierra. Its lanes tumble past tinaos (arched passages), slate-roofed homes, and views that sweep down the gorge to the Mediterranean on clear days.

• Top sights: the Poqueira Gorge footpaths, the Centro de Interpretación de Altas Cumbres, and miradores above the village at golden hour.
• Essential experiences: a circular walk linking Bubión and Pampaneira, tasting artisan chocolate in Pampaneira, and a high-country acequia hike from Hoya del Portillo.
• Where to stay: browse apartments, cortijos, and inns on VRBO Capileira and Hotels.com Capileira.

Getting there: Fly into Málaga (AGP) or Granada (GRX). Within Europe, compare fares on Omio Flights. If you’re coming from outside Europe, check Trip.com Flights or Kiwi.com. From Granada, ALSA buses to Capileira take about 2–2.5 hours via Órgiva; search schedules and tickets on Omio Buses. Trains to Granada from Madrid/Seville can be compared on Omio Trains.

Day 1 — Arrival in the Poqueira Gorge (Capileira)

Morning: Travel day to Granada or Málaga and continue into the Alpujarra. If you have a layover in Granada, stretch your legs with a quick café con leche near the station before your bus up the valley; buses are listed on Omio Buses (Granada to Capileira ~2–2.5 hours, ~$10–15).

Afternoon: Check in and wander Capileira’s upper lanes to the Centro de Interpretación de Altas Cumbres for an overview of the Sierra Nevada’s flora, fauna, and traditional life. For a light bite, the café at the central square serves tostadas with olive oil and tomato, or order a warming sopa alpujarreña.

Evening: Catch sunset at a hilltop mirador above the village. Dinner at El Corral del Castaño (regional stews, grilled meats, local cheeses; book if you can) or the restaurant at Mesón Poqueira (seasonal soups, plato alpujarreño—eggs, potatoes, peppers, morcilla, and jamón). Pair with a glass of Granada province tempranillo.

Day 2 — Classic Poqueira Gorge walk: Capileira → Bubión → Pampaneira

Morning: Breakfast at Mesón Poqueira (tostadas or churros) and set off on the well-marked footpath to Bubión (30–40 minutes; gentle descent with sweeping views). Explore Bubión’s tinaos and the small ethnographic displays tucked into old houses.

Afternoon: Continue down to Pampaneira (another 30–40 minutes). Lunch at Casa Julio (Pampaneira) for hearty mountain fare—try choto (kid goat) or plato alpujarreño. Then pop into Abuela Ili Chocolates for artisanal bars, hot chocolate, or orange-peel dipped in cacao. Browse woven jarapas rugs and ceramics before taking the stepped path or bus back up to Capileira (10 minutes by bus; check Omio Buses).

Evening: Back in Capileira, reserve a table on the terrace at El Corral del Castaño if you didn’t go last night, or return to Mesón Poqueira for grilled trout with almonds. Nightcap: a local herbal digestif and a starry stroll—the skies are often crystal clear.

Day 3 — High-country acequias and chestnut forests

Morning: Arrange a short taxi/4x4 up to Hoya del Portillo (about 15–20 minutes from Capileira) and hike an acequia loop toward Puerto Molina. Expect ancient water channels, Scots pines, and views to the Mediterranean; 3–5 hours round-trip depending on route and pace. Stop frequently to notice the traditional stonework.

Afternoon: Picnic among the pines with local bread, goat cheese, tomatoes, and cured meats picked up in Capileira’s small shops. Descend slowly; if you’re keen, tack on a spur to a higher mirador just above the tree line.

Evening: Ease tired legs with a leisurely dinner: seasonal soup (ajo blanco in warmer months; caldo in cooler months) and grilled ibérico pork. Ask for a honey-drizzled goat cheese for dessert—Alpujarra honey is superb.

Day 4 — Soportújar “witches” village and Lanjarón spa

Morning: Drive or bus to Soportújar (about 25 minutes from Capileira). This playful “pueblo de las brujas” is dotted with quirky art—dragon fountain, Baba Yaga’s house, and whimsical sculptures. It’s a fun, easy wander with valley views around every bend.

Afternoon: Continue 20 minutes to Lanjarón for a spa session at the historic balneario (book ahead). Lunch at Restaurante Alcadima (Lanjarón) for refined takes on regional dishes—salmorejo in season, slow-cooked meats, and garden-fresh sides in a leafy courtyard.

Evening: Return to Capileira for a final gorge-side dinner. If you haven’t yet, share a plato alpujarreño and a seasonal salad highlighting local tomatoes or pomegranates, depending on the month.

Trevélez

Trevélez rises in three tiers—barrio bajo, medio, and alto—between 1,476 and 1,600 meters, often cited among Spain’s highest villages. Its name is synonymous with PGI-certain jamón de Trevélez, cured in cold, dry mountain air the traditional way.

• Top sights: jamón curing houses and tastings, the Trevélez river, and trailheads leading to Siete Lagunas and Mulhacén.
• Essential experiences: a factory-shop tasting at a local producer, river walks, and a summit bid or lagoon hike for seasoned hikers.
• Where to stay: compare mountain inns and apartments on VRBO Trevélez and Hotels.com Trevélez.

Getting there from Capileira: Morning buses typically take about 1–1.5 hours via the mountain road; check times and tickets on Omio Buses. A car makes it a scenic 45–60-minute drive.

Day 5 — Transfer to Trevélez, jamón tasting, river stroll

Morning: Depart Capileira after breakfast; snag a window seat for the corkscrew road. Check in, then orient along Avenida de la Vega lined with small shops and cafés.

Afternoon: Visit a reputable producer such as Jamones Vallejo (shop and tasting room) to learn curing times, salt percentages, and aging grades; sample paleta versus jamón and pair with local wine. Lunch at Restaurante La Fragua (balcony views; trout, stews, and excellent cured-meat platters).

Evening: Golden-hour stroll along the Río Trevélez with the sound of water and cowbells. For dinner, either return to La Fragua or try a simple grill focusing on local meats and vegetables; order migas with peppers when in season.

Day 6 — Full-day hike: Siete Lagunas (or gentler GR-7 section)

Hiking day (allow 6–9 hours; no need to split by time): The classic ascent from Trevélez to Siete Lagunas climbs steeply through broom and alpine meadows to a chain of turquoise tarns beneath Mulhacén. Elevation gain is significant; start early, carry layers, sun protection, 2+ liters of water, and a packed lunch. In early summer, snowfields can linger—check conditions locally. If you prefer something gentler, follow the well-marked GR-7 east or west for a rolling out-and-back with constant views and options to picnic riverside.

Day 7 — Slow morning, last tastes, and departure

Morning: Easy start with coffee and tostadas at a village café; pick up vacuum-packed jamón and local honey to take home. If you have time, walk up to a mirador in the barrio alto for a final panorama of the Sierra Nevada ridgeline.

Afternoon: Bus to Granada (approx. 3 hours; check Omio Buses) for onward trains on Omio Trains or flights via Omio Flights. If departing Málaga, allow 4–5 hours total for bus plus transfer. Celebrate with one last cone of roasted almonds from a kiosk if you spot one.

Practical Eating and Coffee Notes

• Lunch hours skew later (1:30–3:30 pm); dinner from 8:00 pm. If you’re peckish between, bars usually offer free or low-cost tapas with drinks.
• Regional must-tries: plato alpujarreño, choto al ajillo, goat cheeses, local honey, almond-based sweets, and PGI Trevélez ham. In Pampaneira, don’t miss Abuela Ili Chocolates for a sweet break.
• Reservations are wise on weekends and during summer; smaller kitchens may close a day midweek—ask locally and plan around siesta.

Where to book your stays: compare apartments, cortijos, and small hotels on VRBO Capileira, Hotels.com Capileira, VRBO Trevélez, and Hotels.com Trevélez. For transport, check Omio Flights, Omio Trains, and Omio Buses. If you’re flying intercontinentally, compare with Trip.com Flights or Kiwi.com.

In a week, you’ll have walked the storied paths of the Poqueira Gorge, breathed the high mountain air above Trevélez, and tasted the Alpujarra on every plate and slice of jamón. This itinerary keeps the travel light and the experiences deep—just enough structure for confidence, and the space to linger where the view or a village café steals your heart.