7 Days in Landour: Slow-Travel Himalayan Itinerary of Cedar Forests, Cafés, and Colonial Trails

Drift above the Doon Valley on a misty ridge as you explore Landour’s heritage churches, forest loops, bookshops, and cozy cafés—with day trips to Mussoorie, Dhanaulti, and hidden Himalayan trails.

Perched above Mussoorie on a pine- and deodar-cloaked ridge, Landour is a small Himalayan cantonment with big character. Built in the 1800s and named after the Welsh village Llanddowror, it still feels hushed and timeless—its loop roads edged by ivy-clad cottages, stone churches, and lookout points that unspool into the Doon Valley.

This 7-day Landour itinerary blends history-rich walks, café culture, nature reserves, and day trips. You’ll trace the Landour Chukkar, climb to Lal Tibba for sunrise, browse at Sisters Bazaar, and slip down to Mussoorie for bookshops, bakeries, and cable-car views. You’ll also venture to Dhanaulti’s forests and ride the ropeway to Surkanda Devi, a revered hilltop temple.

Practical notes: The nearest airport and main railhead are in Dehradun; taxis whisk you up to Landour in 1.5–2.5 hours. Landour is an eco-sensitive cantonment—walking is encouraged, honking is discouraged, and nights are starry and quiet. Pack layers year-round, sturdy shoes for forest trails, and an appetite for cinnamon rolls and momos.

Landour

Landour is the quieter, older sibling to Mussoorie. Its loop roads—especially the iconic Landour Chukkar—thread past the Kellogg Memorial Church, St. Paul’s Church, and hillside cottages that have inspired writers for a century. Indian author Ruskin Bond calls this ridge home; his stories float in the mists here.

Top sights include Lal Tibba (the highest viewpoint), Sisters Bazaar (home to the beloved Prakash & Co. for jams and peanut butter), and the four cafés of Char Dukan where the bun-omelette became local legend. On clear days you may glimpse Bandarpoonch and the snowy Garhwal Himalaya.

  • Stay: Browse characterful cottages and boutique stays via VRBO Landour and heritage hotels via Hotels.com Landour. For broader inventory nearby, check Hotels.com Mussoorie.
  • Getting there: Fly to Dehradun (DED) via Trip.com flights or Kiwi.com flights. From Delhi, consider a train to Dehradun (the Vande Bharat takes about 4h45) via Trip.com trains. Taxi to Landour: 1.5–2.5 hours; approx ₹2,000–₹3,500 depending on pickup point and car type.
  • Eat & drink highlights: Landour Bakehouse (old-world pastries), Emily’s at Rokeby Manor (slow-cooked roasts and Garhwali plates), Doma’s Inn (Tibetan thukpa and momos), Café Ivy (pancakes and valley views), Char Dukan stalwarts like Anil’s Café and Tip Top Tea Shop (parathas, bun omelette, honey-ginger lemon tea).

Day 1: Arrival via Dehradun, Sisters Bazaar Stroll, and a Soft-Landing Sunset

Morning: Travel to Dehradun by air or rail. For flights, compare fares on Trip.com or Kiwi.com; from Delhi, the Vande Bharat train to Dehradun is a comfortable 4h45 via Trip.com trains. Arrange a taxi up to Landour (1.5–2.5 hours, ₹2,000–₹3,500).

Afternoon: Check in to your Landour stay—browse options on VRBO or Hotels.com. Stretch your legs with a gentle walk to Sisters Bazaar. Pop into Prakash & Co. to sample their house-made jams and peanut butter; pick up a jar of rhododendron jelly as a breakfast hero for the week.

Evening: Ease into mountain time at Landour Bakehouse. Order a pretzel roll or cinnamon swirl with a pour-over. For dinner, Emily’s at Rokeby Manor plates comforting shepherd’s pie, roast chicken, and a seasonal Garhwali curry—warming, unfussy, and perfect after travel. Sleep early; the stars here feel touchable.

Day 2: The Landour Chukkar, Churches, and Lal Tibba Views

Morning: Start at Char Dukan. Anil’s Café does a hearty aloo paratha with curd and pickle; Tip Top Tea Shop is beloved for bun omelette and masala chai. Walk the Landour Chukkar (3–4 km): St. Paul’s Church (1839) to Kellogg Memorial Church and past the historic Landour Language School. The high-altitude cedar scent is your soundtrack.

Afternoon: Continue to Lal Tibba—the ridge’s highest point—with telescope views over the snowline on clear days. Grab a cappuccino at Lal Tibba Café and a plate of Maggi masala noodles, the Himalayan hiker’s classic. Loop back via pretty cottages like Ivy Bank and fern-lined bends.

Evening: Settle at Café Ivy for sunset over the Doon—window seats go first. Try their pesto pasta, pancakes, or hot chocolate. Cap the night with a slow amble through pine shadows; Landour’s quiet is the luxury most travelers come for.

Day 3: Mussoorie Meander—Mall Road, Cable Car, Bookshops, and Bakeries

Morning: Walk or taxi down to Mussoorie (15–25 minutes). Stroll Camel’s Back Road—an undulating path named for a camel-shaped rock—with deodar shade and valley lookouts. Ride the cable car to Gun Hill for a sweeping view of the town’s rooftops and the Himalaya’s jagged horizon.

Afternoon: Lunch at Kalsang Friends Tibetan Restaurant: steamed momos, chicken phing (glass noodles), and ginger-lemon-honey tea. Dessert at Casa Mia Bakery with chocolate eclairs or rum balls, then browse Cambridge Book Depot for Ruskin Bond titles and local history reads. If you like local culture, swing by SOHAM Heritage & Art Centre—wood carvings, murals, and vintage photographs that trace Garhwal’s traditions.

Evening: Choose The Tavern or Café de Tavern for dinner—North Indian grills, thin-crust pizzas, and lively music. If you fancy a nightcap, The Writer’s Bar at the Welcomhotel Savoy mixes a classic hot toddy and whisky highballs in an atmospheric, wood-paneled room. Taxi back up to Landour.

Day 4: Jabarkhet Nature Reserve Hike and George Everest Sunset

Morning: Head to Jabarkhet Nature Reserve (30–40 minutes from Landour). Pay the entry fee (approx ₹350) and, if available, book a naturalist-led walk (₹1,000–₹1,500 per person) to learn the difference between oak and rhododendron forests, spot macaques and hill birds, and read leopard pugmarks after rain. Trails range from 1–3 hours—carry water and a light windbreaker.

Afternoon: Picnic on the trail or return to Mussoorie for a late lunch at Little Llama Café—juicy burgers, crisp salads, and excellent shakes. Consider a restorative tea stop at Chick Chocolate for hot cocoa or a classic cold coffee.

Evening: Drive to George Everest House (20–30 minutes from Mussoorie; short uphill walk). The restored residence of Sir George Everest, India’s former Surveyor General, commands a superb sunset across the Aglar River valley. A small parking/entry fee applies. Dinner back in Landour at Doma’s Inn—veg thukpa, chili momos, and tingmo buns—simple, satisfying mountain fare.

Day 5: Day Trip to Dhanaulti and Surkanda Devi Temple

Morning: Set out after an early breakfast for Dhanaulti (1–1.5 hours). Stroll the Eco Park’s forested paths, zipline if you like, and breathe in the resinous deodar air. Stop at roadside viewpoints for Himalayan panoramas and hot masala corn.

Afternoon: Continue to Kaddukhal for Surkanda Devi Temple. Hike the 1.5 km stone path (moderate, 45–75 minutes) or take the ropeway (budget around ₹400 round-trip). The shrine sits above 2,700 m and offers 360-degree views on a clear day. Lunch options include the Apple Orchard Resort restaurant (simple Indian plates; crisp mountain apples in season) or a Maggi-stop dhaba with chai.

Evening: Return to Landour (1.5–2.5 hours depending on stops). Dinner at Emily’s: try the slow-braised lamb, baked vegetables with herbed rice, or the Garhwali thali if available—millet roti, pahadi rajma, and local greens. It’s comfort on a plate.

Day 6: Crafts, Weaves, and Café-Hopping

Morning: Light breakfast at Landour Bakehouse—almond croissant or date-walnut loaf with a flat white. Drive toward the Mussoorie–Dhanaulti Road to visit Himalayan Weavers, a sustainable workshop-store known for natural-dyed wool, pashmina, and eri silk scarves. It’s a lovely place to learn about traditional weaving and pick up thoughtful souvenirs.

Afternoon: Return to Sisters Bazaar for a slow lunch at Café Ivy or a sandwich from Landour Bakehouse (their chicken-and-mustard is a local favorite). Browse small boutiques and stock up at Prakash & Co.—their peanut butter has fueled generations of hill walkers.

Evening: For a casual Mussoorie dinner, try Clock Tower Café (Indian-Continental menu; paneer tikka to pesto pasta) or head back up to Landour for a quiet night with tea and card games. If skies are clear, step outside for stargazing; the ridge is wonderfully dark after 9 pm.

Day 7: Lal Tibba Sunrise, Last Sips, and Departure

Morning: Catch one last sunrise at Lal Tibba—on exceptionally clear days you can glimpse Swargarohini and Bandarpoonch gleaming to the northeast. Grab a final chai at Char Dukan or pancakes at Café Ivy as the town wakes slowly around you.

Afternoon: Check out and descend to Dehradun by taxi (plan 2–2.5 hours to the airport with buffer). Search flights via Trip.com or Kiwi.com; trains via Trip.com trains. If you have extra time, pause in Dehradun for street chaat or bakery treats before your connection.

Evening: Homebound. As a parting ritual, unwrap the bakery goodies you packed from Landour Bakehouse and spread Prakash’s jam on crackers—the taste of the ridge lingers long after the mountains recede.

Where to Stay (curated picks by style)

  • Heritage boutique: Look for rooms at Rokeby Manor or similar historic cottages with fireplaces and stone patios. Search availability on Hotels.com Landour.
  • Private cottages: Family-friendly bungalows and pine-view homes are plentiful; many include cooks and caretakers. Browse VRBO Landour.
  • Nearby full-service resorts: If you prefer gyms, spas, and kids’ clubs, widen to Mussoorie on Hotels.com Mussoorie.

Essential Tips

  • Best time: March–June and Oct–Nov for crisp views. Monsoon brings mist, leeches on forest trails, and frequent showers; winters can see occasional snow and icy mornings.
  • Getting around: Walk whenever possible; the cantonment prefers low traffic. Local taxis can be arranged by hotels for day trips (budget ₹2,500–₹4,500 depending on route).
  • Health & altitude: Landour sits around 2,000+ m. Hydrate, pace your walks, carry a light layer, and pack sunscreen even on cool days.
  • Responsible travel: Carry back your trash, keep noise low near churches and schools, and stick to marked trails in reserves.

Seven days in Landour invite you to slow down—watching the light change on the valley, reading over coffee, and walking under deodars that have seen empires come and go. With heritage on your doorstep and the high Himalaya hovering on the horizon, this ridge rewards curiosity and unhurried mornings.

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