7 Days in Kefalonia: Beaches, Caves, and Venetian Villages
Kefalonia (Cephalonia) is the largest of Greece’s Ionian Islands—lush, mountainous, and edged by beaches in every shade of blue. Venetians, Ottomans, and British all left their mark here; a 1953 earthquake reshaped its towns but not its soul. You’ll hear it in kantades (serenades) on warm nights and taste it in the island’s proud Robola wine.
Film lovers know Kefalonia from Captain Corelli’s Mandolin, but the island’s show-stealers are real: the otherworldly Melissani Cave, creamy-white Myrtos Beach, and pastel villages like Assos and Fiskardo. Loggerhead turtles (Caretta caretta) glide through Argostoli’s harbor at dawn; wild horses roam Mount Ainos under endemic Kefalonian firs.
Practical notes: late May–October brings beach weather and frequent ferries; July–August is busiest. Renting a car makes exploring simple on winding, scenic roads (drive defensively and fuel up before long drives). Pack water shoes for pebbly coves, and bring cash for small tavernas in remote bays.
Argostoli
Argostoli is Kefalonia’s lively capital: a palm-lined promenade, marble-paved Lithostroto street, and the elegant De Bosset Bridge arching over the Koutavos Lagoon. It’s perfect for day trips to Lassi’s golden beaches, the wine valley of Omala, and the caves near Sami.
Top nearby sights include Makris Gialos and Platis Gialos beaches (soft sand, turquoise water), the Robola wine country around the Monastery of Agios Gerasimos, and the Melissani and Drogarati caves. Early mornings on the quay, watch fishermen unload their catch as sea turtles circle for scraps.
- Where to stay (Argostoli): Browse apartments and villas on VRBO Argostoli or compare hotels on Hotels.com Argostoli. Consider staying near Lithostroto for evening strolls or in nearby Lassi for beach access.
- How to get there: Fly into Kefalonia Airport (EFL). Search flights to Greece with Omio Flights (Europe). Ferries run Kyllini–Poros (~1h20–1h30; ~€12–18 foot passenger) and Patras–Sami (~3h; ~€20–25); check Omio Ferries (Europe). Airport–Argostoli is ~15 minutes by taxi (~€20–25) or local bus.
Day 1: Arrival, harbor stroll, and Kefalonian flavors
Afternoon: Land in EFL and settle into your Argostoli stay. Stretch your legs along the waterfront promenade and amble the 19th‑century De Bosset Bridge for views across Koutavos Lagoon. Pop into Kalafatis, an old-school bakery-café on the seafront, for a frappe and bougatsa.
Evening: Dine at Casa Grec (refined Greek–Mediterranean; try the fresh fish of the day and lemony potatoes) or Ladokolla (casual grill house; shared meze and spit-roasted pork served on greaseproof “ladokolla”). Nightcap at the square—order a masticha sour and people-watch under the plane trees.
Day 2: Makris Gialos, Lassi beach day, and sunset dinner
Morning: Beach time at Makris Gialos (5–10 minutes from Argostoli). The sand is soft, the entry gentle, and water crystal-clear. Rent loungers or settle by the rocks for snorkeling; grab iced coffees from the Costa-Costa beach bar.
Afternoon: Walk to Platis Gialos via the headland path and swim the channel that separates the beaches. Lunch at Blue Paradise (salads, grilled seafood) or return to Argostoli for gyro wraps at a no-frills souvlaki spot.
Evening: Book a table at Kyani Akti, a romantic taverna perched over the water—order grilled octopus, kefalonian meat pie, and local Robola. Stroll Lithostroto afterward for gelato and live kantades.
Day 3: Caves, wine valley, and Antisamos Beach
Morning: Drive ~45 minutes to Melissani Cave. Arrive early to dodge tour buses; boats glide across an underground lake lit electric-blue by a collapsed skylight. Continue 10 minutes to Drogarati Cave, a grand chamber of stalactites with concert-level acoustics (bring a light jacket; ~18°C inside).
Afternoon: Lunch in Sami at Il Familia (slow-cooked goat, baked feta, hearty moussaka) or waterside at Karavomilos Taverna by the sea mill. Then swim at Antisamos Beach—perfect pebble slope, neon water, and excellent snorkeling by the right-hand rocks.
Evening: Detour through the Omala valley for tastings at a Robola winery (expect €5–12 for flights). Pair citrusy Robola with local graviera cheese and almonds; return to Argostoli for a relaxed pita-and-meze dinner.
Day 4: Lixouri peninsula—Xi’s red sand, Petani cliffs, Vatsa bay
Morning: Take the short Argostoli–Lixouri car ferry (~20 minutes; runs frequently in summer) or drive around the bay. Start at Xi Beach, famous for cinnamon-red sand and shallow, family-friendly water; the clay-rich cliffs are nature’s spa—smear on, rinse off.
Afternoon: Continue to Petani Beach for dramatic cliffs and translucent seas; arrive before midday for parking and the calmest water. Late lunch at Spiaggia (Vatsa) Taverna, tables on the sand at a little river mouth—order kakavia (fisherman’s soup) and grilled prawns.
Evening: Return to Argostoli. For a simple, perfect finish, grab a seaside table for ouzo and small plates, or seek a pastry shop for galaktoboureko before turning in.
Fiskardo
Fiskardo, in Kefalonia’s emerald north, is a jewel box of Venetian houses that survived the 1953 quake. Its harbor hums with yachts, café chatter, and the clink of cutlery on quayside terraces.
Base here for boat days, pine-scented walks, and coves reached by footpaths: Emblisi’s white stones, Foki’s olive-shaded bay, and Dafnoudi’s secret turquoise pool. Evenings are for harbor promenades and fresh fish dinners under strings of light.
- Where to stay (Fiskardo): Search waterfront apartments or hillside villas on VRBO Fiskardo or compare boutique hotels on Hotels.com Fiskardo. Staying steps from the quay is pure Ionian theater.
- Getting from Argostoli to Fiskardo: Drive ~1h20–1h30 up the west coast (spectacular) or take the KTEL bus (~2 hours; ~€8–10; limited daily services). Depart in the morning to visit Assos and Myrtos along the way.
Day 5: Transfer via Myrtos and Assos, then Fiskardo evenings
Morning: Check out and head north, stopping at the Myrtos Beach viewpoint for jaw-dropping photos—the contrast of white shingle and cobalt water is Kefalonia’s calling card.
Afternoon: Continue 20 minutes to Assos, a tiny isthmus village wrapped in bougainvillea. Hike up to the Venetian Castle (~20–30 minutes) for panoramas, then lunch at Platanos under the plane tree (kefalonian meat pie, village salad, grilled fish). Arrive in Fiskardo mid‑afternoon and check in.
Evening: Golden-hour stroll to the old Venetian Lighthouse along a piney coastal path. Dinner quayside at Tassia (lobster pasta, sofrito) or Nicolas Taverna (family-run; charcoal-grilled catch, herb-roasted potatoes). Nightcap on the harbor steps, toes almost touching the water.
Day 6: Boat day—hidden coves and lunch-by-the-sea
Morning: Rent a small motorboat in Fiskardo harbor (no license needed for low-hp boats; ~€90–€150 half-day plus fuel). Putter to Dafnoudi and Kimilia coves for snorkel stops; arrive early before the colors turn to mirror-glass under the sun.
Afternoon: Dock for lunch at Odysseas Taverna above Agia Jerusalem (island greens, grilled sardines, chilled Robola), or cruise west to Alaties Beach for a swim and a plate of octopus at Acqua Alaties. Keep an eye on wind and swell; ask your rental team for live advice.
Evening: Back in Fiskardo, choose Elli’s for elegant seaside dining (you can often swim off the steps before dessert). Gelato from the harbor bakery and a slow wander past bobbing masts end the day.
Day 7: Emblisi, coastal walk, and departure
Morning: Coffee and loukoumades at Theodora’s Café, then a quick dip at Emblisi Beach (flat white stones, excellent visibility). Wander the ruins of a Roman cemetery and the waterfront lanes for last-minute souvenirs (thyme honey, olive-wood spoons).
Afternoon: Depart for the airport (~1h30 drive). For onward travel in Europe, compare flight and ferry options on Omio Flights and Omio Ferries. If you’re continuing by bus on the mainland, see Omio Buses.
Evening: If you have a late flight, linger over an early dinner back in Argostoli or near the airport—grilled fish, a last glass of Robola, and one final Ionian sunset.
Optional add-ons if you have extra energy: Hike a short section of Mount Ainos for sea-to-peak views; join a turtle-spotting morning on Argostoli quay; or take a guided day cruise to nearby Ithaca from Sami or Agia Efimia (seasonal).
Over seven days, this Kefalonia itinerary pairs Argostoli’s easy energy with Fiskardo’s postcard charm. You’ll swim in luminous coves, eat fantastically well, sip island wines, and carry home the color of the Ionian Sea in your memory.

