Kashmir has lured poets, emperors, and trekkers for centuries. The Mughals called it “Paradise on Earth,” and you’ll understand why as you skim over water-lilies on Dal Lake, then trace canals and chinar-lined boulevards to gardens built for 17th-century royalty. Its culture flows from ancient Sufi shrines, bustling craft bazaars, and the famed wazwan banquet—slow-cooked flavors meant to be shared.

Set your base in Srinagar for shikara rides, Mughal Gardens, old-city architecture, and artisan workshops. Then climb into the Pir Panjal for Gulmarg, where meadows turn to ski slopes and the legendary Gondola lifts you to alpine moonscapes. In summer, it’s emerald; in winter, it’s powder-white bliss.

Practical notes: Flights to Srinagar run year-round, though winter storms can delay travel—always check advisories and road conditions. Dress in warm layers from October–March (boots help on snowy lanes), and carry some cash for local taxis and pony unions. Tea is kahwa—saffron, almond, and spice warming you after every excursion.

Srinagar

Framed by the Zabarwan Mountains, Srinagar is a tapestry of wooden mosques, Persian-style gardens, waterways dotted with houseboats, and the scent of fresh bread from Kandur bakeries each morning. It’s equally a canvas for crafts—papier-mâché, hand-knotted carpets, walnut wood carving, and pashmina.

• Top sights: Dal Lake shikara ride, Shalimar-Nishat-Mughal Gardens, Pari Mahal, Shankaracharya Temple, Old City (Jamia Masjid, Zaina Kadal), floating vegetable market at dawn.
• Flavor to chase: Wazwan (seek out gushtaba, rista, rogan josh), lotus stem nadru, and noon chai (salty pink tea) with a girda (local bread).
• Where to stay: Lakeside hotels or a traditional houseboat give two different faces of Srinagar life.

Stay (Srinagar): For views over Dal, check into Vivanta Dal View (Vivanta Dal View). Compare more options on VRBO Srinagar and Hotels.com Srinagar (filter for “houseboat” to browse floating stays on Dal and Nigeen Lakes).

Getting there: Fly into Srinagar (SXR) from Delhi, Mumbai, or Bangalore—about 1.5–2.5 hours. Search fares on Trip.com flights or Kiwi.com (typical one-way from Delhi: $60–150). Airport to Boulevard Road is ~30–40 minutes by taxi ($6–10).

Day 1: Arrival in Srinagar, Dal Lake and Boulevard Evenings

Afternoon: Arrive and settle into your hotel or houseboat. Shake off jet lag with a gentle shikara ride on Dal Lake—ask your boatman to meander past lotus gardens and quiet back-canals. Keep your camera ready for reflections of houseboats and snow peaks.

Evening: Stroll along Boulevard Road as the sun drops behind the Zabarwans. For dinner, choose one of these local favorites:

• Ahdoos (Residency Road): A century-old institution for authentic wazwan; order gushtaba (yogurt-sauced meatballs) and tabak maaz (crisp lamb ribs).
• Mughal Darbar (MA Road): Comforting rogan josh and kebabs; try kehwa for dessert.
• Shamyana (Boulevard): Lake views with grilled trout and pan-Indian classics.

Pair it with steaming kahwa from a lakeside stall.

Day 2: Srinagar’s Gardens, Palaces, and Old City (Guided Option)

Morning: Start at Nishat and Shalimar—terraced Mughal Gardens with chiselled water channels and chinar shade. Continue to Pari Mahal for terraced views of the lake and city. Coffee break at 14th Avenue Café & Grill (Rajbagh) for cappuccinos, waffles, and local bakes.

Afternoon: Dive into the Old City—Jamia Masjid with its deodar pillars, the decorative Khanqah-e-Moula on the Jhelum, and artisan lanes for papier-mâché and walnut carving. Lunch at Stream Restaurant (Boulevard) for trout and veggies, or Lhasa for momos and thukpa.

Evening: Sunset at Shankaracharya Temple viewpoint (a short climb; modest attire). For dinner, consider The Chinar at The Lalit (kebabs, lake vistas) or a cozy wazwan spread back at Ahdoos.

Guided tour option: Book Srinagar Splendors: A Private City Tour to streamline logistics and get insider history.

Day 3: Day Trip to Pahalgam (Valleys, Pines, and River Views)

Morning: Depart Srinagar by 7:30–8:00 a.m. for Pahalgam (2–2.5 hours; private car ~$50–70 round-trip). En route, detour through Pampore to view saffron fields (best Oct–Nov) and taste saffron kahwa. In Pahalgam, hire a local union taxi or pony to reach Betaab Valley and Aru Valley—green meadows and pine forests.

Afternoon: Lunch at Café Log Inn (pizza, pies, espresso) or Troutbeat (seasonal trout). Walk along the Lidder River; photographers love the wooden bridges and apple orchards in season.

Evening: Drive back to Srinagar before dark. Dinner light and early—try Chai Jaai Tea Room for a pastry and noon chai, or Stream for a quick kebab plate.

Easy button: Reserve Picturesque Pahalgam: A Memorable Day Trip to handle permits, local guides, and timing.

Day 4: Dawn Market, Crafts, and Lakeside Leisure

Morning: Rise before sunrise for the floating vegetable market on Dal (book a shikara for 5:00–5:30 a.m.). Watch traders swap gourds and greens by first light—photographers, bring fast lenses. Stop at a Kandur bakery for fresh lavasa and girda.

Afternoon: Shop and learn. Visit the Government Arts Emporium for quality-controlled pashmina and carpets (good for price benchmarks), then browse Polo View Market for papier-mâché boxes and namdas (felt rugs). Lunch at Ahdoos Bakery (puffs, walnut tarts) or Kralson for local bakes.

Evening: Leisure time on the Boulevard—rent a bicycle or take another sunset shikara. For dinner, sample a mini-wazwan tasting: rista (saffron-tinged meatballs), haak saag (collards), and phirni. Early night—you head to the mountains tomorrow.

Gulmarg

Gulmarg—“meadow of flowers”—rolls into alpine bowls, cedar forests, and 360° Himalayan views. In summer, it’s carpeted in wildflowers with ponies and golfers tracing the world’s highest green; in winter, it’s India’s ski capital, with powder stashes off Mt. Apharwat.

• Top sights: Gulmarg Gondola (Phase 1 to Kongdori, Phase 2 to Apharwat), St. Mary’s Church, Maharani Temple, Golf Course loop, winter ski slopes and sledging runs.
• Food & warm-ups: Kahwa at base station stalls, trout and grills at Highlands Park, Kashmiri spreads at The Khyber’s restaurants.

Stay (Gulmarg): Treat yourself at The Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa (fireplaces, spa, and alpine views). Browse alternatives on VRBO Gulmarg and Hotels.com Gulmarg.

Getting there from Srinagar: Depart after breakfast by private car via Tangmarg (1.5–2 hours; $30–45). In winter, the last stretch may require a local chained taxi; porters can help with luggage.

Day 5: Transfer to Gulmarg, Gondola Views, and Alpine Evenings

Morning: Leave Srinagar around 8:30 a.m. to reach Gulmarg by late morning. Check into your hotel and walk the Golf Course loop to acclimatize. Pick up Gondola tickets online in advance (pricing can vary; budget roughly INR 700–1,000 per phase).

Afternoon: Ride the Gulmarg Gondola to Kongdori (Phase 1) for sweeping Pir Panjal views; if weather allows and you’re acclimatized, continue to Apharwat (Phase 2) for lunar-like high-alpine terrain. Lunch at Hotel Highlands Park (classic dining room; seek out the lamb yakhni) or a warming soup at the base cafés.

Evening: Back at the hotel, warm up with kahwa by the fireplace. Dine at Cloves (at The Khyber) for refined Kashmiri-Indian dishes, or try Bakshi Restaurant in town for hearty local plates. Clear nights are great for stargazing—minimal light pollution.

Day 6: Snowplay or Meadow Day, Local Sights, and Cozy Fare

Morning: Winter: book a ski lesson or snowboarding session (rentals available near the base; guided off-piste is for experts only). Summer: gentle pony trek towards Khilanmarg for panorama points and wildflowers.

Afternoon: Visit St. Mary’s Church (a photogenic 1900s stone chapel) and the Maharani Temple above the meadow. Try sledging (winter) or a relaxed photo walk around snow-laden pines. Lunch on trout or paneer tikka at Highlands Park or a quick bite at a dhaba by the market.

Evening: Spa time if you’re at The Khyber, then dinner at Nouf (The Khyber’s terrace, seasonal) for kebabs fresh off the grill. End with hot kahwa spiked with saffron and almonds.

Prefer a guide from Srinagar for Gulmarg? Consider Gulmarg Adventure: A Thrilling Day Trip for a fully handled day—handy if you decide not to overnight.

Day 7: Return to Srinagar, Last Bites, and Departure

Morning: Drive back to Srinagar (1.5–2 hours). Drop by Polo View Market for last-minute spices (saffron, shahi jeera), papier-mâché ornaments, and a pashmina stole (ask for GI-certified labels).

Afternoon: Early lunch at Ahdoos or a pastry-and-tea stop at Chai Jaai. Head to the airport for your flight—arrive at least 2 hours before departure due to security checks. Search or rebook on Trip.com flights or Kiwi.com.

Evening: In transit. If you’re extending in India by train, plan onward rail tickets to/from Jammu Tawi using Trip.com trains, then connect by road to Srinagar (7–9 hours; check highway status in winter).

Optional: Prefer a fully packaged Kashmir experience?

If you’d like a driver, hotels, and sightseeing bundled, compare these highly rated multi-day options starting in Srinagar:

• 6-Days Luxury Tour Package of Kashmir from Srinagar — curated stays and the big four (Srinagar, Gulmarg, Pahalgam, Sonamarg).

  

Where to eat and drink (quick picks)

• Breakfast/coffee: 14th Avenue Café & Grill (espresso, waffles), local Kandur bakeries (fresh girda), Chai Jaai (artisanal teas, pastries).
• Lunch: Stream (trout on the Boulevard), Lhasa (Tibetan), Ahdoos Bakery (savouries, desserts), Café Log Inn (Pahalgam day trip).
• Dinner: Ahdoos (classic wazwan), Mughal Darbar (hearty Kashmiri-Indian), The Chinar (grills with lake views), Cloves/Nouf (Gulmarg, elevated Kashmiri fare), Highlands Park (heritage ambiance).

Logistics & Tips

• Best time: Apr–Jun (flowers, mild hikes), Sep–Oct (golden chinar, harvest), Dec–Feb (snow, skiing). July–Aug can be rainy.
• Tickets: Pre-book Gulmarg Gondola on peak weekends/holidays; carry ID. Weather can suspend Phase 2 at short notice.
• Local transport: Union taxis/ponies operate at Pahalgam and Gulmarg; rates are posted—confirm before starting.
• Safety & advisories: Check current travel advisories and local conditions, especially in winter. Dress modestly for shrines.
• Cash & connectivity: ATMs are in Srinagar; carry smaller notes for bazaars, shikaras, and kahwa stalls. 4G data is widely available.

One-day add-on idea (if extending south): Spiritual travelers sometimes add a night in Jammu/Katra for the Vaishno Devi pilgrimage by helicopter—bookable via Guaranteed Vaishno Devi Darshan by Helicopter.

In a week you’ll taste Kashmir’s essence—serene lakes, terraced gardens, alpine horizons, and warming kitchens. Whether you came for shikaras or snowfall, Srinagar and Gulmarg deliver a balanced Himalayan escape you’ll want to revisit in another season.