Goa is India’s pocket-sized powerhouse: a former Portuguese enclave where Baroque churches and pastel mansions live beside coconut groves and Arabian Sea surf. Once a major 16th-century trading hub, it still hums with layered history, from Old Goa’s UNESCO-listed basilicas to village bakeries that set their dawns by wood-fired bread.

Beyond the postcards, Goa is a mosaic of moods. North Goa brims with lively beaches, street markets, and live music; Panaji’s Latin Quarter, Fontainhas, glows with azulejo tiles and wrought-iron balconies. South Goa eases into palm-fringed bays—Cavelossim, Benaulim, and Palolem—made for hammock days, seafood grills, and sunset yoga.

Practical notes: Goa has two airports—GOX (Mopa, North) and GOI (Dabolim, central). Monsoon season (June–September) brings lush landscapes but choppy seas and occasional closures for waterfall treks. Cuisine runs the gamut from xacuti and cafreal to vegan cafés and high-end tasting rooms; feni cocktails are the local calling card.

Panaji (North Goa)

Base yourself in Panaji (Panjim) to step straight into Fontainhas, the “Latin Quarter” of India—lanes of ochre villas, Mario Miranda murals, and bakery windows stacked with bebinca. A short hop brings you to Miramar Beach, Reis Magos Fort, and the nightlife of Candolim and Anjuna.

• Top sights: Basilica of Bom Jesus and Sé Cathedral (Old Goa), Reis Magos Fort, Fort Aguada and lighthouse, Chapora Fort, Anjuna Flea Market (Wednesdays, seasonal), Mapusa Friday Market.
• Food & drink: In Panaji, try Caravela Café & Bistro (Goan breakfast and specialty coffee), Viva Panjim (Goan classics in a heritage home), and BSB (Black Sheep Bistro) for inventive, local-forward cuisine. For evenings, Joseph Bar in Fontainhas pours feni the old-school way.
• Where to stay (Panaji & North Goa):
  • Budget: The Old Quarter Hostel (Fontainhas, Panaji) or The Funky Monkey Hostel (Anjuna).
  • Mid-range: Novotel Goa Resort & Spa (Candolim) for a resort feel close to beaches.
  • Browse more: VRBO Panaji stays | Hotels.com Panaji
• Getting there: Fly into GOX (North) or GOI (central). Compare fares on Trip.com Flights and Kiwi.com. Trains on the Konkan Railway stop at Karmali (for Old Goa) and Madgaon—check schedules via Trip.com Trains.

Day 1: Arrive and ease into Panaji

Morning: In transit.

Afternoon: Land at GOX or GOI and transfer 45–70 minutes to Panaji (approx. $12–25 by taxi). Check in, then stretch your legs along the Mandovi promenade and Miramar Beach. Walk up to Reis Magos Fort for sweeping river-mouth views.

Evening: Dinner at BSB (Black Sheep Bistro): try the Recheado Prawn Bao or Pork Vindaloo with poi. Nightcap at Joseph Bar—ask for a kokum-feni cocktail and listen for impromptu mando tunes.

Day 2: Fontainhas, Old Goa, and local flavors

Morning: Coffee and pao at Caravela Café & Bistro. Join the Fontainhas Heritage Walk by Make It Happen to decode Indo-Portuguese life, tilework, and baker lore.

Afternoon: Taxi to Old Goa (20–30 minutes). Visit the Basilica of Bom Jesus (St. Francis Xavier) and the Sé Cathedral’s grand nave. Lunch at Viva Panjim back in Fontainhas—order crab xec xec, cafreal, and bebinca for dessert.

Evening: Sunset at the Aguada lighthouse precinct, then dinner in Candolim. Consider Cohiba for live retro nights or Cantare in Saligao for jazz and Goan tapas.

Day 3: Anjuna–Vagator beach day + Goan cooking

Morning: Head to Anjuna. Breakfast at Baba Au Rhum (butter croissants, shakshuka, and strong coffee). Swim at Anjuna Beach, then stroll the clifftop lanes to Vagator.

Afternoon: Learn to cook vegetarian Goan and South Indian dishes in a friendly home setting on the Traditional Indian Cooking Class in Anjuna.

Evening: Hike up to Chapora Fort for a tangerine sunset over Ozran. Dine at Gunpowder (Assagao)—prawn gassi, Kerala beef fry, and jackfruit biryani shine. For late-night, Soro – The Village Pub has live bands and a lively courtyard.

Day 4: Jungle day—Dudhsagar Waterfall and spice plantation

Full-day excursion: Set out early on the Dudhsagar waterfall wildlife & spice plantation Tour in Goa for a jeep safari through Mollem National Park to the milky cascade. Swim in forest pools (seasonal), then head to a traditional spice farm for a guided walk and Goan lunch.

Note: During peak monsoon, access can pause for safety; your operator will advise alternates like waterfalls near Chorla Ghat or an Old Goa heritage focus.

Cavelossim (South Goa)

Shift south for quieter sands, fishing villages, and riverfront dining. Cavelossim sits between the Sal River and the sea—perfect for boat rides, kayaking, and long, shell-strewn walks to Mobor. Day trips to Benaulim and Palolem are easy and rewarding.

• Top sights: Cavelossim–Mobor beach belt, Benaulim village, Palolem and Patnem bays, Cabo de Rama Fort for cliffside panoramas, Sal backwaters.
• Food & drink: Fisherman’s Wharf (riverside seafood and live music), Martin’s Corner (Betalbatim legend—rechado masala rules), Cavatina by Avinash Martins (Benaulim; modern Goan plates), and in Palolem try Dropadi for grills and Zest for wholesome brunch bowls.
• Where to stay (South Goa):
  • Luxury: The Leela Goa (Cavelossim; lagoon-style luxury) or Taj Exotica Resort & Spa, Goa (Benaulim; palm-dotted lawns).
  • Great value: Holiday Inn Resort Goa (Cavelossim; direct beach access).
  • Browse more: VRBO Cavelossim | Hotels.com Cavelossim
• Getting from Panaji to South Goa: Taxi 1.5–2 hours ($20–35). Alternatively, a short train from Karmali to Madgaon (~45 minutes) plus a 30-minute taxi to Cavelossim—check times on Trip.com Trains.

Day 5: Transfer south—Cavelossim sunsets

Morning: Depart Panaji after breakfast. If you opt for the train, aim for a late-morning Karmali–Madgaon run and taxi onward.

Afternoon: Check in and lounge on Cavelossim Beach—gentle surf, beach shacks, and long, quiet stretches. Late lunch at Fisherman’s Wharf on the Sal River; try rawa-fry mussels and prawn balchão with poi.

Evening: Golden-hour walk toward Mobor. Dinner at your resort or at Cavatina (Benaulim) for modern Goan plates—think choriz pav sliders and toddy-vinegar glaze.

Day 6: Sal Backwaters, Palolem, and stargazing

Morning: Paddle the mangrove-lined waterways on Goa Kayaking Sal Backwaters Mangroves Magic!—flat waters ideal for beginners; watch for kingfishers and egrets.

Afternoon: Taxi 45–60 minutes to Palolem. Swim the calm bay, rent a kayak, or stroll to Patnem for a quieter cove. Refuel at Zest (smoothie bowls, dosa wraps) or Magic Italy (Neapolitan pies and homemade pasta).

Evening: Sunset toes-in-sand dinner at Dropadi—kingfish peri-peri or tandoori lobster if in season. Wind down with a beach bonfire (seasonal) or a quiet drink at Art Resort’s beachfront lounge.

Day 7: Cabo de Rama and farewell Goa

Morning: Optional scenic jaunt to Cabo de Rama Fort for dramatic cliffs and turquoise coves. Brunch back near Cavelossim—try Martin’s Corner (Betalbatim) for butter garlic calamari and sorpotel.

Afternoon: Pack up and depart for GOI (~1 hr) or GOX (~1 hr 45 min) depending on traffic. Compare flights on Trip.com Flights or Kiwi.com.

Evening: In transit.

Optional add-on (time-permitting): Wine and heritage

If you find an extra half day in Panaji, two delightful cultural add-ons are a wine tasting in a 150-year-old Indo-Portuguese home or another guided heritage walk in Old Goa. These deepen the backstory behind Goa’s architecture and convivial table culture.

Why this flow works: Four nights up north give you Goa’s heritage, markets, and nightlife; three nights down south deliver unhurried beaches and backwater calm. You’ll touch UNESCO sites, village kitchens, jungle pools, and silky sands—all at a relaxed Goan pace.

Quick seasonal tip: The Anjuna Flea Market and Arpora Night Market usually run November–April; Dudhsagar access varies in the monsoon. Beach shacks are seasonal—resorts and village restaurants are year-round.

Another great cultural day (swap-in if you prefer city sightseeing): Discover Goa: A Full-Day Private City Tour combines Old Goa churches, Panaji’s Latin Quarter, and local markets with a guide.