7 Days in Georgia (the Country): Tbilisi, Kazbegi, and Gudauri in Winter
Georgia (Sakartvelo) sits at the historic crossroads of Europe and Asia, with the Caucasus Mountains as its crown and Tbilisi as its beating heart. Ancient trade routes and empires have left a mosaic of churches, fortresses, and carved cave cities. Today, you’ll find buzzy wine bars beside medieval bathhouses and ski runs within a few hours of the capital.
Famed for hospitality, Georgia feeds travelers well: khinkali (soup dumplings), khachapuri (cheese bread), mtsvadi (grilled meats), and amber qvevri wines made in clay vessels—UNESCO-listed for their tradition. Winter brings snow to the high passes and a crisp glow to Tbilisi’s balconies and courtyards.
Practical notes: Most visitors enter visa-free; currency is the Georgian lari (GEL). Roads over Jvari Pass to Kazbegi can close briefly in heavy snow—check conditions before traveling. Your budget (50/100) fits friendly guesthouses, midrange hotels, marshrutka buses, and a couple of standout dinners.
Tbilisi
Tbilisi is a city of contrasts: Art Nouveau facades lean over twisting lanes, futuristic bridges span the Mtkvari River, and sulfur steam rises where legend says a king found warm springs and founded a capital. Ride a cable car over terracotta rooftops, then disappear into wine bars tucked beneath brick arches.
- Top sights: Narikala Fortress, Metekhi Church, Abanotubani sulfur baths, the Peace Bridge, Dry Bridge flea market, and the National Botanical Garden.
- Food & wine: Hunt down hand-pinched khinkali, Imeretian khachapuri, herb-laced pkhali, and qvevri wines in cozy cellars.
- Fun fact: Tbilisi’s sulfur baths have soothed travelers for centuries; Pushkin and Dumas wrote about them.
Where to stay (Tbilisi): Design-forward stays and budget-friendly beds.
- Stamba Hotel (boutique icon): Check availability
- Rooms Hotel Tbilisi (style + substance): Check availability
- Fabrika Hostel & Suites (social, budget-friendly): Check availability
- Browse more stays on VRBO: VRBO Tbilisi or Hotels.com: Hotels.com Tbilisi
Getting there & around: Fly into Tbilisi (TBS). From Europe, compare fares on Omio Flights; from other regions, try Kiwi.com or Trip.com Flights. In town, use the metro, Bolt taxis, or walk.
Day 1: Arrival, Old Town, and Sulfur Baths
Afternoon: Arrive and settle in. Shake off the flight with a gentle stroll through Rike Park and across the glassy Peace Bridge. For a caffeine lift, try Coffee LAB (light roasts and pour-overs) or Linville for a cozy salon vibe with cakes.
Evening: Get your bearings on a guided walk that threads famous sights with local corners.
Tbilisi Walking Tour Including Cable Car and Traditional Bakery — ride the cable car to Narikala, hear stories of King Vakhtang, and sample fresh bread from a tone oven.

Night: Soak at Gulo’s or Royal Bath in Abanotubani—book a private room for 60–120 GEL depending on size. Dinner nearby: Culinarium Khasheria for modern spins on classics, or Machakhela for khachapuri adjaruli and mtsvadi. Nightcap at Vino Underground (natural wines) or 8000 Vintages (broad Georgian list).
Day 2: Art, Markets, and Wine Tasting
Morning: Breakfast at Tone for piping-hot shotis puri with sulguni, or grab pastries at Entrée. Browse the Dry Bridge flea market for Soviet pins, handwoven rugs, and vintage cameras—great for unique souvenirs.
Afternoon: Dive deeper into Old Tbilisi and taste your way through Georgia’s wine heritage.
Old Tbilisi Tour: Private Walking Tour With Wine Tasting — wander tiny lanes, visit key viewpoints, then sample qvevri amber and Saperavi reds in a cellar.

Evening: Dinner at Barbarestan, which resurrects 19th‑century recipes (think walnut-laced chakapuli and spiced desserts). For something more casual, Shavi Lomi grills smoky mtsvadi in a leafy courtyard. End at the Fabrika courtyard for creative bars and street-art energy.
Day 3: UNESCO Mtskheta, River Walks, and Optional Biking
Morning: Fuel up at Cafe Leila (vegetarian-friendly, Persian accents). Head to the ancient capital for monasteries and mountain views.
UNESCO Gems of Mtskheta - Old Capital of Georgia — visit hilltop Jvari Church, Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, and Samtavro; expect history and panoramas.

Afternoon: Lunch in Mtskheta at Salobie (clay‑pot lobio and mchadi cornbread), then return to Tbilisi. If roads are dry, rent bikes near Vake Park or Fabrika and cruise the Mtkvari riverside and Rike Park loop; for a longer spin, circle Lisi Lake (mostly flat, ~7 km). If it’s snowy, trade pedals for a gentle riverside walk and café hopping.
Evening: Explore Sololaki’s dining nooks: Ezo does homestyle plates in a courtyard; Leila’s sweets and herbal teas are soothing on chilly nights. For baklava and tea, try Turkisher near Abanotubani.
Stepantsminda (Kazbegi) and Gudauri
North of Tbilisi, the Georgian Military Highway winds past Jinvali Reservoir and the Ananuri Fortress before cresting Jvari Pass at 2,395 m. Stepantsminda sits beneath 5,047‑meter Mount Kazbek, crowned by the Gergeti Trinity Church—one of the Caucasus’ most photogenic sights, especially dusted with snow.
- Snow & scenery: Winter hikes, 4x4 rides to Gergeti, and frozen cascades in Dariali Gorge. Gudauri (30–45 minutes south) offers ski lifts, grooming, and freeride terrain.
- Food & firesides: Mountain guesthouses dish steaming khinkali; cafés pour mulled wine with postcard views of Kazbek.
- Fun fact: The highway’s 19th‑century route follows older caravan paths linking Tbilisi with the Russian plains.
Where to stay (Kazbegi/Gudauri): Cozy guesthouses to view-rich hotels.
- Search Stepantsminda on VRBO: VRBO Stepantsminda or Hotels.com: Hotels.com Stepantsminda
- Search Gudauri on VRBO: VRBO Gudauri or Hotels.com: Hotels.com Gudauri
Getting there from Tbilisi: Depart by morning. Marshrutka from Didube station to Stepantsminda takes ~3–3.5 hours (about 25–35 GEL). Weather-dependent, private cars take ~3 hours with scenic stops (Jinvali, Ananuri, Pasanauri). To compare bus options, check Omio Buses. In heavy snow, expect delays over Jvari Pass.
Day 4: Tbilisi to the High Caucasus
Morning: Depart Tbilisi after a quick bakery stop (shotis puri, lobiani). On the Military Highway, pause at Jinvali Reservoir for turquoise views and explore the 17th‑century Ananuri complex—its crenelated walls and river setting make striking photos.
Afternoon: Lunch in Pasanauri, a town famous for khinkali—order a mixed plate (beef‑pork, mushroom, potato). Continue to Stepantsminda; if the sky is clear, you’ll glimpse Gergeti Church silhouetted against Kazbek.
Evening: Check into your guesthouse. Warm up with chashushuli (beef stew) or lobio with pickles. For a relaxed drink, Café 5047m does views, simple plates, and mulled wine.
Day 5: Gergeti Trinity, Gveleti Waterfall, and Dariali Gorge
Morning: After breakfast (try fresh khachapuri or omelets), head up to Gergeti via 4x4 or a winter hike with traction. The 14th‑century church sits on a ridge with immense vistas; morning light and fewer visitors are ideal.
Afternoon: Continue deeper into the valley on a local tour that strings together winter highlights: frozen falls, gorge views, and borderland chapels.
Tour from Kazbegi to Gergeti Church, Gveleti Waterfall, Dariali — ideal for snowy conditions; guides handle roads and route.

Evening: Dinner by the fire—order kharcho (walnut‑and‑spice beef soup) and a glass of Saperavi. If skies are clear, step outside for staggering stars above the ridge.
Day 6: Gudauri Ski Day + Optional Snow Biking
Morning: Transfer 30–45 minutes to Gudauri. Rent gear at base-area shops; day passes are typically better value than single rides. Beginners can start on blue runs near New Gudauri; intermediates ride Soliko and Kudebi.
Afternoon: Keep lapping groomers or book a lesson. Some shops occasionally offer fat-tire snow bikes or snowmobile tours—ask rental desks about conditions and availability. For non-skiers, enjoy the new pedestrian zones in New Gudauri, sledding hills, and cafes pouring tarragon soda and hot chocolate.
Evening: Apres at Drunk Cherry (casual pizzas, soups) or try kharcho and khinkali at nearby mountain eateries. Return to Stepantsminda for the night, or stay slopeside if you booked Gudauri lodging.
Day 7: Return to Tbilisi, Last Tastes, Departure
Morning: Drive back to Tbilisi (aim to leave by 8–9 am; 3–3.5 hours). Check road reports if it’s snowing. For peace of mind, compare shared and private transfers on Omio Buses.
Afternoon: Squeeze in a final feast: Shemoikhede Genatsvale is great for khinkali and chkmeruli (garlic‑cream chicken). Pick up walnut churchkhela and local honey at the Dezerter Bazaar for edible souvenirs.
Evening: If time allows before your flight, a quick circuit through the Botanical Garden waterfalls or one last sulfur soak is a fitting farewell. Fly out of TBS; compare same‑day options on Omio Flights (Europe) or Kiwi.com/Trip.com elsewhere.
Optional Add‑Ons if You Extend
- Vardzia cave city and Borjomi springs (long day, history‑rich landscapes): Vardzia, Rabati, and Borjomi Ancient Georgia Group Tour

Vardzia, Rabati, and Borjomi Ancient Georgia Group Tour on Viator - Two‑day Gudauri & Kazbegi loop from Tbilisi (if you prefer not to self‑organize): Tbilisi: 2‑Day Tour to Gudauri and Kazbegi

Tbilisi: 2-Day Tour to Gudauri and Kazbegi on Viator
Budget & Tips
- Meals: 20–45 GEL for casual lunches; 60–120 GEL for hearty dinners (more at top restaurants).
- Baths: Private rooms from ~60 GEL/hour; public pools cheaper.
- Transport: Marshrutka Tbilisi–Kazbegi ~25–35 GEL; private car 250–350 GEL per vehicle.
- Snow safety: Roads over Jvari Pass can close during storms; carry snacks/water and check updates with your host.
- Biking: In winter, ride only when pavements are dry; consider Lisi Lake loop or riverside paths. Ask shops about fat‑tire bikes.
Quick Bookmarks: Flights — Omio Flights, Kiwi.com, Trip.com Flights. Buses — Omio Buses. Stays — VRBO Tbilisi, Hotels.com Tbilisi, Rooms Hotel Tbilisi, Stamba Hotel, Fabrika Hostel & Suites.
In seven days you’ll sip sulfur steam in Tbilisi, trace the early Christian spine of Mtskheta, and watch clouds snag on Mount Kazbek above Gergeti. Between khinkali feasts and snowy slopes, Georgia’s winter palette—pomegranate reds, monastery golds, and alpine whites—stays with you.
Keep this guide handy for routes, bites, and booking links; it’s built for repeat reference, whether you’re planning from home or reading it over hot tea after a day in the snow.

