7 Days in Gaziantep and Kahramanmaraş (Afşin): Culinary Heritage, Ancient Stones, and a School Visit
Turkey’s southeast is where spice markets hum, copper sings under the hammer, and recipes carry centuries of memory. Gaziantep is the culinary capital of Turkey—home to layered baklava, smoky kebabs, and a mosaic museum that brings Roman villas to life. Two hours northeast, Kahramanmaraş pairs mountain air with the stretchy, mastic-laced dondurma that made the city’s name famous.
North of the provincial capital lies Afşin, set amid the Elbistan plain. Here you’ll find the Eshab-ı Kehf (Seven Sleepers) complex—on UNESCO’s Tentative List—and a strong local culture expressed in village cooking, market days, and seasonal festivals. If you plan to stop by Afşin Cumhuriyet Ortaokulu, arrange permission in advance; it’s an active public middle school and visits are at the administration’s discretion.
Expect hot summers and crisp winters (snow is common inland). Many bazaars and museums operate on reduced hours during religious holidays. The region continues post-2023 earthquake restoration; check local advisories, drive carefully, and book flexible rates where possible. Your reward: a deep dive into living heritage, generous hospitality, and flavors you’ll dream about for years.
Gaziantep
Gaziantep is a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy—think pistachio-rich baklava at its source, paper-thin lahmacun, and chile-laced soups that wake the senses. The historic Bakırcılar Çarşısı (Coppersmiths’ Bazaar) still rings with artisans at work, while the Zeugma Mosaic Museum houses dazzling floor scenes lifted from Roman riverside villas.
Top hits include the Emine Göğüş Culinary Museum for context on Antep cooking, Tahmis Kahvesi for Ottoman-era coffeehouse vibes, and view-studded drives to Rumkale. Food legends abound: İmam Çağdaş, Koçak Baklava, Kebapçı Halil Usta, and Katmerci Zekeriya Usta are genuine institutions.
- Where to stay: Browse central stays near the castle and bazaars on Hotels.com Gaziantep or apartments on VRBO Gaziantep. Aim for Şahinbey or the historic center for easy walks to eateries.
- How to get there: Fly to GZT via Istanbul (1h40m; ~$40–120 one-way). Compare fares on Trip.com flights and Kiwi.com.
Kahramanmaraş & Afşin
Kahramanmaraş is the homeland of Maraş dondurması—traditionally churned with goat’s milk and thickened with wild orchid root. Stroll Trabzon Caddesi, sample cones that must be cut with a knife, and browse the Kapalı Çarşı for red pepper flakes, tarhana, and copperware.
Afşin rewards detours with the Eshab-ı Kehf Külliyesi (mosque, tombs, and courtyards linked to the “Seven Sleepers” legend) and rural rhythms. It’s also the place to keep your promise to visit Afşin Cumhuriyet Ortaokulu; be courteous, bring ID, and follow the principal’s guidance on timing and photos.
- Where to stay: Use central bases in Kahramanmaraş on Hotels.com Kahramanmaraş or find apartments via VRBO Kahramanmaraş. (Afşin has limited stays; day-trip from the provincial capital.)
- Getting there from Gaziantep: Drive ~2 hours (95–110 km) or take a regional bus (about 2–2.5 hours; ~$5–9). Winter roads can be icy; start early.
Day 1 — Arrive in Gaziantep
Morning: Fly into Gaziantep (GZT). Check options and timings on Trip.com flights or compare on Kiwi.com. Arrange a taxi or hotel transfer (20–30 minutes to the center).
Afternoon: Drop bags and stretch your legs in the Bakırcılar Çarşısı to watch coppersmiths at work. Coffee stop at Tahmis Kahvesi for menengiç (terebinth) coffee—nutty and naturally caffeine-free.
Evening: Dinner at İmam Çağdaş for classic kebabs (order the smoky ali nazik) and a first slice of pistachio baklava. Nightcap tea in the courtyard of Gümrük Han before turning in.
Day 2 — Zeugma Mosaics and Antep Classics
Morning: Start with beyran (garlicky lamb-and-rice soup) at Metanet Lokantası—it’s a hearty Gaziantep breakfast tradition. Head to the Zeugma Mosaic Museum; don’t miss the “Gypsy Girl” mosaic and river-themed panels from ancient villas.
Afternoon: Explore the Emine Göğüş Culinary Museum to grasp how spices, pistachios, and stone ovens shaped Antep cuisine. Lunch at Kebapçı Halil Usta—try küşleme (tenderloin) and soft lavash.
Evening: Dessert theater at Katmerci Zekeriya Usta, where phyllo, clotted cream, and pistachios become a blistered, buttery katmer. For dinner, book Hisvahan—a refined setting in a restored caravansary serving seasonal Southeastern plates.
Day 3 — Rumkale Views or Halfeti by Boat
Morning: Breakfast pastries at Orkide Pastanesi, then drive ~1 hour to Rumkale Seyir Terası for sweeping photos of the Euphrates, fortress, and canyon lake. Tea or salep at the terrace café pairs with the view.
Afternoon: Option A: Continue 30–40 minutes to Old Halfeti for a boat tour past the partially sunken village of Savaşan and minaret rising from the water (1–1.5 hours). Option B: Head west to the Yesemek Open-Air Museum (ancient sculpture quarry) for Hittite-era reliefs in situ.
Evening: Back in Gaziantep, graze on liver kebab at Ciğerci Ali Haydar or lahmacun at Emil Usta. Finish with syrupy bites at Koçak Baklava—ask for the midye (mussel-shaped) with premium pistachio.
Day 4 — To Kahramanmaraş: Bazaars and Dondurma
Morning: Travel to Kahramanmaraş by car (~2 hours) or bus (~2–2.5 hours). Check into your hotel via Hotels.com Kahramanmaraş.
Afternoon: Wander the Kapalı Çarşı for Maraş pepper, tarhana sheets, and copper coffee sets. Head to MADO (Merkez) to watch the famous elastic ice cream cut with knives, then sample plain (sade), pistachio, and cocoa scoops.
Evening: Dinner at Kervan Lezzetleri (Kervanhan) for Maraş-style eli böğründe (tomato-pepper-butter baked meat) and grilled specialties. Dessert round two at Alpedo for dondurma-in-kadayif sandwiches.
Day 5 — Afşin: Cumhuriyet Ortaokulu and Eshab-ı Kehf
Morning: Breakfast at Yaşar Pastanesi (a local classic for decades), then drive ~2–2.5 hours to Afşin. Visit Afşin Cumhuriyet Ortaokulu by prior arrangement; bring a small gift of school supplies if appropriate and follow staff guidance on photos and timing.
Afternoon: Explore the Eshab-ı Kehf Külliyesi—courtyards, mosque, and structures linked to the Seven Sleepers tradition on UNESCO’s Tentative List. Lunch at the Eshab-ı Kehf Sosyal Tesisleri for gözleme, lentil soup, and tea under the plane trees.
Evening: Optional detour to Hurman Castle (hilltop Seljuk/Dulkadirid-era remains; allow a short uphill walk), then return to Kahramanmaraş. Light dinner at MADO Cafe & Restaurant (savory menu plus sweets) or pide at a central lahmacun/pide salon.
Day 6 — Nature and Mosaics around Kahramanmaraş
Morning: Drive ~1 hour to the Döngel Caves and waterfalls for a cool, wooded ramble; local trout restaurants dot the streams. If you prefer high meadows, swap for Başkonuş Yaylası (picnic grounds and short walks).
Afternoon: Return to town for the Kahramanmaraş Archaeology Museum and, if open during your visit, the Germanicia Mosaic excavations (remarkable late-Roman floors scattered across the city). Coffee and almond cookies back on Trabzon Caddesi.
Evening: Try a casual ocakbaşı near the center for grills and soft flatbreads, then close with a final tasting flight of dondurma at Alpedo—ask for the seasonal fruit flavors and classic sade to compare textures.
Day 7 — Last Tastes and Departure
Morning: Stock up on edible souvenirs: Maraş red pepper flakes, tarhana sheets, pistachios, and pekmez (grape molasses) from the bazaar. If flying from Kahramanmaraş (KCM), the airport is ~15–25 minutes from the center; Gaziantep (GZT) is ~2 hours by road.
Afternoon: Fly onward via Istanbul. Check schedules and fares on Trip.com flights or compare on Kiwi.com. Keep sweets in a rigid box; baklava travels best as whole trays.
Evening: If you have time before departure, one last coffee at Tahmis or a quick slice of katmer to seal the trip with pistachio and butter.
- Alternate stays (if you add a Cappadocia extension before/after): Consider cave hotels like Sultan Cave Suites, Kelebek Special Cave Hotel, or the splurge-worthy Museum Hotel for hot-air balloon mornings.
Hotels quick links for this itinerary:
Travel quick links:
Notes for Afşin Cumhuriyet Ortaokulu: Confirm the exact campus name in Afşin (many Turkish towns have a “Cumhuriyet Ortaokulu”), email or call the school for appointment windows, and bring a passport for sign-in. Dress modestly; avoid photographing students without explicit permission.
This 7-day route ties together Gaziantep’s legendary kitchens, riverside history at Rumkale, and the living traditions of Kahramanmaraş and Afşin. You’ll leave with recipes to recreate, market treasures to unpack, and the quiet satisfaction of a respectful school visit woven into your journey.