7 Days in Fes (Fez) and Chefchaouen: Morocco’s Medina Magic and the Blue City Dream
Welcome to northern Morocco—a region where Roman ruins meet medieval madrasas and the Rif Mountains cradle a city washed in a hundred shades of blue. In Fes (Fez), labyrinthine lanes unfurl to reveal brass hammerers, cedar-carved fountains, and the hum of Chouara’s ancient tanneries. A few hours north, Chefchaouen’s powder-blue alleys and cinnamon-scented rooftops feel tailor-made for golden-hour wanderers and photographers.
Founded in the 9th century, Fes grew into a spiritual and scholarly capital, home to al-Qarawiyyin—often cited as the world’s oldest continuously operating university. Chefchaouen began as a 15th-century hill town and later adopted its signature blue—variously linked to Jewish-Andalusian heritage, cooling optics, and a whimsical defense against mosquitoes. Nearby lie Meknes, a sultan’s showpiece city, and Volubilis, a UNESCO-listed Roman outpost with mosaics that still catch the Moroccan sun.
Expect warm hospitality, fragrant tagines, and a living crafts scene—from handwoven blankets to zellige tiles. Cash is useful (small notes), bargaining is expected, and the medinas are largely car-free. Spring and fall bring mild weather; summer can be hot. For flights, compare fares on Trip.com and Kiwi.com; if you’re routing via Europe, check options on Omio. Trains connect Casablanca/Rabat to Fes in roughly 3.5 hours, while Chefchaouen is reached by road through the Rif.
Fes (Fez)
Fes el-Bali, the oldest quarter, is a living museum: timber-latticed windows, spice pyramids, and artisans who still tan leather and inlay bone by hand. Climb to a rooftop near Chouara Tannery to watch dye pits glow in ochres and indigos; then slip into the cool courtyards of Bou Inania Madrasa, an exemplar of Marinid artistry in carved cedar and onyx-green tile.
- Top sights: Bou Inania Madrasa, Al-Attarine Madrasa, Chouara Tannery, Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts, Al-Qarawiyyin (library views; mosque interior is for Muslims), Jnan Sbil Gardens, Borj Nord panorama.
- Experiences: Pottery demo at Art Naji (zellige), brass/hammammer souks at Place Seffarine, traditional hammam at Palais Amani or Riad Laaroussa, Fassi cooking class with market visit.
- Food highlights: Fassi pastilla (sweet-savoury pigeon or chicken pie), slow-cooked lamb with prunes, harira soup, and fresh msemen (layered flatbread) with honey and amlou.
Where to stay: Browse riads and apartments on VRBO (Fes) or vetted hotels and riads on Hotels.com (Fes).
Getting to Fes: Fly into FEZ (Fes-Saïss). Compare fares on Trip.com flights or Kiwi.com. From Casablanca, trains take ~3.5–4 hours to Fes; second class ~US$12–20. Airport taxis to the medina are ~150–200 MAD (about US$15–20).
Chefchaouen
Chefchaouen’s medina is a painter’s palette: cobalt doorways, azure stairs, and potted geraniums. It’s slower and more intimate than bigger cities—perfect for rooftop breakfasts, photo strolls, and hikes to waterfalls in Talassemtane National Park. At sunset, the Spanish Mosque lookout turns the whole valley honey-gold.
- Top sights: Outa el Hammam Square & Kasbah garden, Ras El Maa cascade, Spanish Mosque viewpoint, local weaving workshops, Thursday/Sunday market days.
- Experiences: Half-day hike to Akchour waterfalls (and the “God’s Bridge” natural arch), goat-cheese tastings, photography walks in the quiet early hours.
- Food highlights: Mountain goat cheese, stewed beans (loubia), tagines, and mint tea on rooftops with Rif views.
Where to stay: See riads and apartments on VRBO (Chefchaouen) or book boutique stays via Hotels.com (Chefchaouen).
Getting there from Fes: CTM buses run ~4–4.5 hours (about 90–120 MAD). A private driver is ~3.5 hours; expect 1,800–2,200 MAD for a comfortable vehicle. If coming via Spain, ferries to Tangier run from Algeciras/Tarifa (check Omio ferries), then continue by road to Chefchaouen (~2.5 hours).
Day 1: Arrive in Fes, first tastes of the medina
Afternoon: Arrive at FEZ and transfer to your riad. Ease in with a gentle orientation walk near Bab Boujloud (Blue Gate). Pop into Jnan Sbil Gardens for palms, ponds, and a breeze after your flight.
Evening: Dinner at The Ruined Garden—slow-cooked lamb with prunes, zesty zaalouk, and a courtyard lit by lanterns. For something lively and affordable, Café Clock serves camel burgers, vegetarian couscous, and fresh juices; their rooftop catches evening light. Nightcap at Le Mezzanine (outside the medina) for a quiet cocktail overlooking a pond.
Day 2: Fes medina deep-dive—madrasas, tanneries, and souks
Morning: Coffee and msemen at your riad or Pâtisserie Bennis Habous (Fassi pastries). With a licensed guide, tour Bou Inania Madrasa (stucco, zellije, carved cedar), the Al-Attarine Madrasa, and Nejjarine Museum’s beautifully restored caravanserai. Learn how merchant caravans once crossed the Maghreb to trade here.
Afternoon: Lunch at Le Tarbouche Fes—vegetable tagine or chicken with preserved lemon. Continue to Place Seffarine to watch coppersmiths hammer basins by hand. Climb to a permitted rooftop for a panorama of Chouara Tannery; your host will hand you mint sprigs to soften the scent and explain centuries-old tanning steps.
Evening: Book a hammam-and-scrub at Palais Amani or Riad Laaroussa’s spa to reset. Dinner at Darori Resto (set menus of seasonal Fassi classics in a quiet riad), then mint tea on your riad terrace as the muezzins’ chorus rolls over the rooftops.
Day 3: Crafts, cuisine, and a sunset viewpoint
Morning: Head to Art Naji to see artisans cut and glaze zellige tiles; you can commission small pieces or ship a table home. Coffee stop at The Fez Café (Jardin des Biehn) for a tranquil garden setting and light breakfast plates.
Afternoon: Join a Fassi cooking class (many riads or Café Clock offer classes): shop for saffron, ras el hanout, and olives; then learn to fold pastilla or simmer a preserved-lemon chicken tagine. Enjoy your handiwork for lunch.
Evening: Walk or taxi up to Borj Nord for a golden-hour view of the medina and tannery quarter. Dinner at Eden at Palais Amani—refined takes on classics with a seasonal menu; or MB Restaurant in the Ville Nouvelle for a contemporary bistro vibe and Moroccan wines.
Day 4: Day trip to Meknes and the Roman ruins of Volubilis
Morning: Take an early ONCF train to Meknes (~40 minutes; 25–50 MAD). Explore Bab Mansour’s monumental gate and the Heri es-Souani granaries and royal stables, feats of engineering from Sultan Moulay Ismail’s time.
Afternoon: Grand taxi to Volubilis (~45 minutes). Wander intact mosaics like Orpheus and the Dolphin, tread the Decumanus Maximus, and climb the Capitol for views toward Mount Zerhoun. Optionally detour to the whitewashed pilgrimage town of Moulay Idriss for lunch (try bean stew with fresh bread).
Evening: Return to Fes by train (~40 minutes). Dinner back in the medina at The Ruined Garden (reserve the courtyard), or try Chez Rachid by the Blue Gate for budget-friendly brochettes, harira, and fresh orange juice.
Day 5: Fes to Chefchaouen, blue alleys and sunset over the Rif
Morning: Depart Fes for Chefchaouen. CTM bus ~4–4.5 hours (90–120 MAD) or private transfer ~3.5 hours (1,800–2,200 MAD). Check in and refresh.
Afternoon: Light lunch at Bab Ssour (simple, hearty mountain fare—goat-cheese salad, kefta tagine). Stroll bluewashed lanes: photograph Rua Outa el Hammam and pop into small weaving ateliers for hand-loomed blankets dyed with natural indigo.
Evening: Hike 20–25 minutes to the Spanish Mosque for a sunset that turns the medina into a sapphire bowl. Dinner at Casa Aladdin—terrace views and classics like couscous tfaya or lemon-olive chicken. Mint tea at a rooftop café as stars appear above Jebel el-Kelaa.
Day 6: Akchour waterfalls or a slow day in the Blue City
Morning: If you’re up for it, taxi to Akchour (45–60 minutes; 150–250 MAD each way). Hike along the river to the Small and Big Waterfalls; bring sturdy shoes and water. For an easier wander, explore the kasbah garden and Ras El Maa cascade instead, stopping for sfenj doughnuts dusted with sugar.
Afternoon: Lunch at Café Restaurant Assaada (try the bissara—silky fava bean soup with paprika oil—and mountain cheese). Browse small cooperatives for woven rugs and woodwork; prices are gentler than in larger cities.
Evening: Dinner at Café Clock Chefchaouen—good vegetarian options, live music or storytelling nights on some evenings. Alternatively, book a farm-to-table dinner at Auberge Dardara (10 minutes outside town; hearty Rif dishes and excellent goat cheese). Early night to prep for travel.
Day 7: Return to Fes and depart
Morning: Drive or bus back to Fes (allow 4–4.5 hours). If your flight is later in the day, stash bags at your riad and make one last stop for dates, olives, and spices in the medina—vendors will vacuum-seal for travel.
Afternoon: Transfer to FEZ for your flight. Compare last‑minute options on Trip.com or Kiwi.com. If you’re continuing to Spain, consider ferry routes via Tangier and search them on Omio ferries.
Evening: In case of a late departure, a quick, early dinner near Bab Boujloud—try snack stands for grilled brochettes, fresh salads, and orange juice—keeps it simple and delicious before you fly.
Practical notes and budget pointers:
- Money: 10 MAD ≈ US$1 (rough guide). ATMs are common; small notes ease tipping and souk purchases.
- Guides: Use licensed guides (badge visible) for history-rich medina tours and to navigate quieter quarters comfortably.
- Dress & customs: Shoulders/knees covered is respectful, especially in medinas and rural areas. Non-Muslims may not enter active mosque prayer halls; libraries and courtyards sometimes accessible on guided visits.
- Transport recap: Fes–Chefchaouen road transfer 3.5–4.5 hours; Meknes by train ~40 minutes; Volubilis by taxi ~45 minutes. Private drivers save time if you’re short on days.
- Where to book: Compare flights on Trip.com and Kiwi.com; ferries/trains in Europe on Omio trains (Europe) and Omio ferries. Find stays on VRBO Fes, Hotels.com Fes, VRBO Chefchaouen, and Hotels.com Chefchaouen.
In one week, you’ll cross centuries and landscapes—Roman mosaics, medieval madrasas, and mountain-blue doorways—without rushing. This Fes and Chefchaouen itinerary balances heady souks, slow meals, and scenic hikes, leaving space for serendipity and tea. You’ll go home with stories that smell faintly of saffron and cedar.

