7 Days in Corsica: Ajaccio, Bonifacio, and the Wild West Coast by Sea

A weeklong Corsica itinerary blending Ajaccio’s Napoleonic heritage, Bonifacio’s white-limestone cliffs, and UNESCO-listed boat trips to Scandola and the Calanques de Piana—plus beaches, markets, and unforgettable Corsican cuisine.

Between France and Italy, Corsica has always been a frontier—Genoese citadels, watchtowers, and mountain villages guard an island where the sea is sapphire and the interior is defiantly wild. Napoleon was born in Ajaccio, Bonifacio sits like a stone ship on white cliffs, and the west coast is carved into fiery-red rock known as the Calanques de Piana. Offshore, the Scandola Nature Reserve protects dolphins, ospreys, and volcanic pinnacles you can only approach by boat.

Expect bold flavors: chestnut flour breads, brocciu cheese, charcuterie smoked over maquis wood, wild-boar stew, and honey-scented canistrelli. Summer brings warm seas and busy harbors; May–June and September–October offer calm water, lower prices, and golden light. Winds (libecciu, mistral) can shift boat schedules—always check the sea state a day before tours.

Getting around is simple: fly into Ajaccio or Figari, or ferry from Marseille, Toulon, or Nice. Buses link coastal towns, but a car makes beach hopping easy. Reserve activities and top restaurants ahead in high season, bring reef-safe sunscreen, and carry some cash for markets and beach kiosks.

Ajaccio

Ajaccio, capital of Corsica, is a palm-lined amphitheater of pastel facades, a lively market on Place Foch, and beaches that start right in town. It’s the jumping-off point for the Sanguinaires Islands and the UNESCO-listed Scandola–Piana coast to the north. In the old streets you’ll feel Napoleon’s shadow—and smell grilled fish and myrtle on the evening air.

  • Top sights: Maison Bonaparte, Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption, Fesch Museum, Parata headland with views to the Sanguinaires.
  • Why base here: Walkable city beaches (Saint-François, Trottel), easy access to Sagone/Cargèse for boat trips, great dining and market culture.
  • Stay: Browse stays on VRBO Ajaccio or hotels on Hotels.com Ajaccio.
  • Getting in: Fly to AJA (search Europe flights on Omio), or ferry to Ajaccio from Marseille/Toulon/Nice (compare Omio ferries). Paris–Ajaccio flights are ~1h45 (often €60–€200); ferries run 6–12 hours.

Day 1 – Arrival in Ajaccio and Old-Town Stroll

Afternoon: Arrive and check in. Start at palm-shaded Place Foch; snack from the market stalls (brocciu beignets, cured prisuttu). Step inside the salmon-pink Cathedral to see Delacroix’s “Virgin of the Sacred Heart,” then wander to Saint-François Beach for your first Mediterranean dip.

Evening: Dinner at Le 20123, a cult-favorite set inside a mock mountain village—order veal with olives or wild boar civet and finish with fiadone (lemony brocciu cheesecake). For seafood with Gulf views, L’Altru Versu grills the catch of the day and serves excellent spider-crab pasta. Gelato afterward at the Geronimi boutique (the island’s most famed ice cream).

Day 2 – Ajaccio by E‑Bike, Beaches, and Sanguinaires Sunset

Morning: Roll the coast on an e‑bike to coves locals love. Join: Ajaccio City and Surroundings E-Bike Tour with Sanguinaires Islands Beaches.

Ajaccio City and Surroundings E-Bike Tour with Sanguinaires Islands Beaches on Viator
Pickup a cappuccino and canistrelli beforehand at a café on Cours Napoléon; after the ride, swim at Plage du Trottel or Marinella.

Afternoon: Culture hour at the Museum Fesch (Bonaparte family art trove) or Maison Bonaparte. For lunch, try U Papacionu for wood‑fired pizzas Corsican‑style (figatellu when in season), or Le Chemin des Vignobles for a glass of Sciaccarellu with tapas.

Evening: Drive or bus to the Parata headland for a golden-hour walk facing the Sanguinaires archipelago. Dine back in town at A Nepita (refined seasonal tasting menu; reserve well ahead) or seaside at Le Saint-Pierre for a relaxed fish supper.

Day 3 – UNESCO Coast: Scandola & Calanques de Piana by Boat (Full Day)

Head 60–75 minutes north to Sagone or Cargèse (self-drive or regional bus; €8–€12) for a small‑group cruise through the volcanic Scandola Nature Reserve, the hamlet of Girolata, and flame-red Calanques de Piana. Book: Day at Scandola and Calanques de Piana in a small group.

Day at Scandola and Calanques de Piana in a small group on Viator
Expect sea caves, possible dolphin sightings, and a swim stop; bring a windbreaker and reef‑safe sunscreen. Back in Ajaccio, celebrate with grilled dentex or seabass at L’Altru Versu or rustic Corsican fare at Le 20123 if you missed it.

Day 4 – Markets, Napoleon, and a Corsican Food Tour

Morning: Browse Place Foch Market (morning) for lonzu, brocciu, canistrelli, and maquis honey—perfect gifts. Pop into the Salon Napoléonien at City Hall if open, then stroll Cours Grandval’s Belle Époque villas.

Afternoon: Eat your way through town on this insider tasting walk: NO DIET CLUB – Unique local food tour in Ajaccio.

NO DIET CLUB - Unique local food tour in Ajaccio (English/French) on Viator
You’ll sample charcuterie, cheeses, and street-side specialties while dodging tourist traps—come hungry.

Evening: Toast sunset on Saint‑François Beach with a Pietra (chestnut beer). Dinner options: Le Roi de Rome for bistro classics and Corsican wines, or Le Bistrot Gourmand (seasonal menus; book in summer). Nightcap along the port promenade.

Bonifacio

Bonifacio rises from a promontory of chalk-white cliffs, its medieval citadel looking out over the Strait of Bonifacio to Sardinia. The marina below hums with yachts and cafés, while beaches like Piantarella and Sperone entice with Bahamian blues. The staircase carved into the cliff—l’Escalier du Roi d’Aragon—is a rite of passage.

  • Top sights: Citadel ramparts and Bastion de l’Étendard, Aragon Steps, marine caves by boat, beaches at Piantarella and Petit/Grand Sperone.
  • Stay: Search VRBO Bonifacio and Hotels.com Bonifacio for cliff-view apartments or marina hotels.
  • Getting there from Ajaccio: Morning bus (~2.5–3 h, €20–€30; check Omio buses) or self-drive via N196 (~2.5 h). If flying out later from Figari (FSC), it’s 25–30 minutes from town by taxi (often €60–€80; seasonal bus runs).

Day 5 – Transfer to Bonifacio, Citadel Lanes, and Clifftop Views

Morning: Travel to Bonifacio and settle in near the marina or upper town. Grab a quick lunch harborside—Kissing Pigs is beloved for Corsican charcuterie boards, burgers with brocciu, and people-watching.

Afternoon: Explore the Bastion de l’Étendard and citadel lanes, then descend the Aragon Steps (note: steep; check sea conditions). Take the coastal path to the Grain de Sable viewpoint for postcard photos of the town balanced over the sea.

Evening: Book a terrace at La Caravelle on the marina for refined seafood (try rock lobster when in season), or head to U Castille in the citadel for island classics like aubergines à la bonifacienne. Gelato and a slow stroll along Quai Comparetti cap the night.

Day 6 – Sailing Bonifacio’s Lagoons and Coves (Full Day)

Spend a day under sail along limestone coves and turquoise shallows, with swim stops near Piantarella or Fazzio. Reserve: Bonifacio sailing 7h Luxury Relaxation Sublime landscapes.

Bonifacio sailing 7h Luxury Relaxation Sublime landscapes on Viator
Pack a hat, towel, and a waterproof pouch for your phone. Back in port, graze on Corsican tapas with live music at Da Passano (fig jam with sheep cheese is a favorite) or choose a simple mussels‑and‑fries feast at L’Escale.

Day 7 – Beach Morning and Departure

Morning: Hit Piantarella early for waist‑deep, glassy water; a 20‑minute coastal walk reaches Petit Sperone, a crescent of white sand. Rent a paddleboard if seas are calm and the wind light.

Afternoon: Depart from Figari Sud‑Corse (FSC) for your onward flight (Omio flights), or continue by ferry to Sardinia from nearby Bonifacio–Santa Teresa Gallura (Omio ferries). If returning to Ajaccio by bus, allow ~3 hours (Omio buses).

Optional Add‑On or Swap – Cargèse/Calanques by RIB (Half Day)

If you prefer a shorter boat outing, opt for this Sagone/Cargèse cruise focused on sea caves and snorkeling: From Sagone/Cargèse: Coves of Piana sea cave Snorkeling.

From Sagone/Cargèse: Coves of Piana sea cave Snorkeling on Viator
This pairs well with a beach afternoon back in Ajaccio or a sunset walk at Parata.

Where to Eat and Drink (Quick Reference)

  • Ajaccio: Le 20123 (Corsican classics, set menus), A Nepita (seasonal tasting; book), L’Altru Versu (seafood by the Sanguinaires road), U Papacionu (pizza), Geronimi (island-famous gelato). Breakfasts: cafés around Place Foch market for canistrelli and cappuccino.
  • Bonifacio: La Caravelle (harborside seafood), Da Passano (Corsican tapas & music), Kissing Pigs (charcuterie boards), U Castille (traditional dishes), L’Escale (casual seafood). Morning pastries and espresso are easy to find along Quai Comparetti and in the citadel lanes.

How to Get Around

  • Flights: Compare European routes into Ajaccio (AJA) or Figari (FSC) on Omio.
  • Ferries: Marseille, Toulon, and Nice to Ajaccio/Propriano; Bonifacio to Sardinia. Check Omio ferries.
  • Buses: Intercity coaches link Ajaccio–Propriano–Sartène–Bonifacio–Porto‑Vecchio. Timetables vary by season; see Omio buses.

In one week, you’ll have traced Corsica’s essentials: Ajaccio’s history and markets, a day on the UNESCO coast among the Calanques de Piana and Scandola, and Bonifacio’s cliffs and lagoons by sail. Expect a heady mix of sea, stone, and the slow pleasures of island life—best savored at a harborside table as the sun slides into the Mediterranean.

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