Roman Aquae Flaviae—today’s Chaves—has been a spa town for nearly two millennia thanks to 76°C mineral springs bubbling along the Tâmega River. The Flavian (Trajan) Bridge still carries pedestrians across the water, a stone testament to empire and engineering. You feel history in the cobbles, but also in the food: smoky barrosã beef, mountain cheeses, and the flaky, IGP-protected Pastel de Chaves.

Chaves sits near Portugal’s northern frontier, perfectly placed for slow travel. South lies Vidago Palace and the Douro Valley’s terraced vineyards; east, the granite villages of Barroso; to the southwest, Alvão Natural Park’s waterfalls. Distances are manageable with a rental car, but you can also rely on regional buses for the highlights.

Expect hearty portions, unpretentious hospitality, and fair prices compared with coastal cities. Pack layers—the region is continental in feel—and bring walking shoes for castle steps and riverside paths. Food lovers, save room: a week here means daily pastries, smoked-cured “fumeiro,” and at least one Douro wine day.

Chaves

Chaves is compact and walkable, anchored by its medieval core, 17th-century fortresses, and the celebrated Roman bridge. The town’s thermal heritage is visible in elegant balneários and modern wellness spaces, making it one of Portugal’s classic spa getaways.

• Top sights: Ponte de Trajano (Flavian Bridge), Castle Keep (Torre de Menagem) and Museu da Região Flaviense, Forte de São Francisco, Forte de São Neutel, Igreja da Misericórdia, and the Roman & Medieval Baths Interpretation Center.
• Signature tastes: Pastel de Chaves (IGP), posta barrosã (thick-cut beef), smoked sausages, honey, and robust Douro/Trás‑os‑Montes wines.
• Easy day trips: Vidago Palace (15–20 minutes), Montalegre and the Barroso highlands (~1 hour), Vila Real and Alvão Natural Park (~1 hour), Peso da Régua and Pinhão in the Douro (~1 hour).

Where to stay (Hotels.com & VRBO):

• Historic stay inside an 18th‑century fort: Forte de São Francisco Hotel (pool, views, walkable to the old town).
• Great value just outside the center: Hotel Albergaria Borges (easy parking, friendly service).
• Resort vibes with a view: Hotel Casino Chaves (spa, sauna, and on-site dining; short drive to the center).
• Browse private homes and quintas: VRBO: Chaves rentals or compare more hotels on Hotels.com: Chaves.

How to get there and around (Omio):

• Fly to Porto (OPO), then rent a car or go by bus to Chaves. Search flights within Europe on Omio (flights). Driving Porto–Chaves takes about 1h45–2h via A7/A24; tolls apply.
• By bus from Porto: about 2h30–3h; typical fares €12–20. Check departures on Omio (buses).
• Train: There’s no active train to Chaves; the nearest main rail is Peso da Régua. For regional rail within Europe, see Omio (trains), then connect by bus or taxi.
• Local mobility: A car makes day trips flexible. In town, plan to walk; most historic sights cluster near the bridge and castle.

Optional Douro Valley tours (from Porto)—best if you overnight in Porto pre/post or depart Chaves very early:

• Douro Valley Tour: 2 Vineyard Visits, River Cruise, Winery Lunch

  

• Douro Valley: Historical Sites, Wine Experience, Lunch & Cruise

  

Day 1: Arrival, First Walk, and Riverfront Sunset

Afternoon: Arrive via Porto (or Vigo) and transfer to Chaves. Check into Forte de São Francisco Hotel for a historic setting, or unwind resort-style at Hotel Casino Chaves. Stretch your legs on Rua Direita toward Ponte de Trajano; pause to read the Latin inscriptions celebrating the Roman engineers.

Evening: Start with a galão and a warm Pastel de Chaves at a central pastelaria (local favorites near Praça de Camões include Pastelaria da Ponte and Pastelaria Maria). Dinner at Adega Faustino: order posta barrosã (thick-cut local beef), roasted potatoes, and seasonal greens. Nightcap along the river—watch the bridge lights mirror on the Tâmega.

Day 2: Roman Chaves and Thermal Traditions

Morning: Coffee and torrada near the main square, then climb the Castle Keep (Torre de Menagem) for town-and-hills views. Explore the Museu da Região Flaviense inside the keep and the nearby Igreja da Misericórdia with its azulejos.

Afternoon: Visit the Roman & Medieval Baths Interpretation Center to see exposed thermal structures and learn why the Romans named the town Aquae Flaviae. Walk to the Termas de Chaves and book a short balneotherapy session or thermal circuit. Lunch at Restaurante Carvalho for grilled pork secretos or daily soups like caldo verde.

Evening: Sunset at the Forte de São Neutel ramparts, then return to the historic center for petiscos—think smoked sausage, sheep cheese, and olives—with a glass of Trás‑os‑Montes red at a cozy wine bar. If staying at Forte de São Francisco, try their on-site restaurant for a serene, cloistered setting.

Day 3: Vidago Palace Day Trip (15–20 minutes each way)

Morning: Drive or taxi to Vidago. Stroll the manicured park of the Vidago Palace Hotel, a Belle Époque icon tied to the region’s curative waters. If you golf, book a morning tee time on the championship course; non-golfers can opt for a spa treatment or a gentle park walk.

Afternoon: Lunch at the Club House for grilled fish, risottos, and Douro whites by the glass. Afterward, sightsee in Vidago village—seek the old spring kiosks—and then stop at a roadside vendor for local honey or chestnut products on the way back. Driving: 17 km, ~20 minutes; taxis usually €15–20 each way.

Evening: Back in Chaves, grab a casual dinner—grilled frango, octopus rice, or bacalhau à brás—and finish with pudim de ovos or an espresso. If you enjoy a flutter, the bars at Hotel Casino Chaves pour solid Douro selections with a panoramic lounge vibe.

Day 4: Montalegre and the Barroso Highlands (~1 hour each way)

Morning: Drive north into the granite highlands toward Montalegre. Tour the hilltop Castle of Montalegre and the excellent Ecomuseu de Barroso to understand pastoral life and the region’s famed smoked meats (fumeiro). If your dates align with a Friday the 13th, the village throws a theatrical “Noite das Bruxas.”

Afternoon: Lunch at a local grill (look for menus featuring cozido barrosão and veal). Optionally continue 30 minutes to Pitões das Júnias for a short walk to waterfall viewpoints and the atmospheric ruins of the 12th‑century monastery. Return to Chaves via the scenic N103 ridge road.

Evening: Light dinner back in town—order a board of regional cheeses, alheiras, and pickled vegetables. Pair with a crisp Vinho Verde from nearby Minho or a structured Douro red.

Day 5: The Douro Valley—Terraces, Tastings, and a River Cruise (Full-Day)

Make this your wine day. The easiest approach is to drive ~1 hour to Peso da Régua or Pinhão for DIY tastings and a 1-hour rabelo boat cruise, or commit to a guided full-day departing from Porto (allow ~2 hours pre-dawn drive from Chaves, or consider an overnight in Porto before/after).

• Guided option 1 (from Porto): Douro Valley Tour: 2 Vineyard Visits, River Cruise, Winery Lunch — classic estates, lunch, and a scenic cruise included.

  

• Guided option 2 (from Porto): Douro Valley: Historical Sites, Wine Experience, Lunch & Cruise — pairs wine with historic viewpoints and river time.

  

DIY highlights (if driving from Chaves): Start at Miradouro de São Leonardo de Galafura, then continue to Pinhão for a short river cruise. Book tastings at estates like Quinta do Bomfim (Pinhão), Quinta do Seixo (Sandeman), or Quinta da Roêda (Croft). For lunch, aim for DOC by Rui Paula (Folgosa) or Castas e Pratos (Régua) in a converted rail warehouse—both excellent for local wines by the glass. Return to Chaves by early evening.

Day 6: Vila Real and Alvão Natural Park (~55 minutes each way)

Morning: Drive to Vila Real to tour the baroque Mateus Palace and its formal gardens—one of northern Portugal’s most photogenic estates. Coffee in town, then browse boutiques for local textiles and wines.

Afternoon: Continue to Alvão Natural Park for the Fisgas de Ermelo waterfalls. Choose a short viewpoint walk or a longer marked trail along schist ridgelines. Pack water, sun protection, and grippy shoes; trails can be rocky.

Evening: On the way back, dine in Vila Real at Cais da Villa, known for contemporary takes on regional flavors and an atmospheric setting in a restored railway building. Return to Chaves for a quiet nightcap near the bridge.

Day 7: Markets, Souvenirs, and Farewell

Morning: Browse Chaves’ covered market for smoked sausages, mountain cheeses, chestnut flour, and honey—easy edible souvenirs. Snap a final photo at the N2 milestone, celebrating Portugal’s great north–south road.

Afternoon: Early lunch of arroz de polvo or grilled dourada, plus one last Pastel de Chaves to go. Depart by bus to Porto (about 2h30–3h via Omio buses) or drive to OPO for your flight (Omio flights within Europe).

Evening: If your flight is next morning, consider a final night in Porto to simplify logistics; you can also browse Hotels.com or VRBO if you’re extending your stay back in Chaves.

Dining cheat sheet (use across the week): For traditional grills and posta barrosã, pick Adega Faustino or Restaurante Carvalho. For pastry-and-coffee stops near Praça de Camões, locals frequent Pastelaria da Ponte and Pastelaria Maria. In the Douro, book DOC (Folgosa) or Castas e Pratos (Régua); in Vila Real, Cais da Villa blends design and regional cooking. At Vidago Palace, the Club House is a scenic bet for lunch.

Over seven days, you’ll tap into Chaves’ Roman heritage, soak in thermal waters, taste the Douro’s famed wines, and breathe the highlands’ clean air. It’s a northern Portugal itinerary that rewards curiosity and a hearty appetite—one you’ll remember every time you bite into a flaky Pastel de Chaves.