7 Days in Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas: Beaches, History, and Island Flavor
Charlotte Amalie is the vibrant capital of St. Thomas, the busiest of the U.S. Virgin Islands. Founded by the Danish in the 1600s, its pastel facades, red-tile roofs, and cobblestoned alleys hint at a complicated past—sugar, rum, and piracy—now softened by sea breezes and bougainvillea. The harbor has long been a crossroads of commerce; today it’s equally beloved by sailors and sunseekers.
Beyond the town’s historic 99 Steps and Fort Christian, St. Thomas dazzles with beaches that look airbrushed: Magens Bay’s calm arc, Lindquist’s pale sands, and Coki’s snorkeling gardens. Ferries shuttle to St. John’s protected national-park beaches, while tiny Water Island tempts with a low-key beach bar scene. Between swims, you’ll find fine dining, roti shacks, and wood-fired pizza with a harbor view.
Practical notes: U.S. citizens don’t need a passport for the USVI (you’ll want one for any BVI excursions). The islands drive on the left; taxis are shared and priced per person. Pack reef-safe sunscreen (it’s the law), cash for small vendors, and a light rain layer in summer and fall. Duty-free allowances are generous—this is a great place to shop for local rum and spices.
Charlotte Amalie
Why base here: You’ll be steps from centuries-old Danish warehouses turned boutiques, waterside cafes, and the ferry network to St. John and Water Island. Most tours and charters pick up nearby.
- Top sights: Fort Christian Museum, Emancipation Garden, 99 Steps, St. Thomas Synagogue (sand floor), Drake’s Seat, Mountain Top (banana daiquiri views).
- Best beaches nearby: Magens Bay (gentle swim), Lindquist/Smith Bay Park (powder sand), Coki Beach (snorkeling near the reef), Secret Harbour (calm, clear cove).
- Food & drink: From fresh-catch dinners in Frenchtown to tapas in Palm Passage and laid-back pizza in Red Hook, menus lean on seafood, local produce, and island spices.
- Fun facts: The duty-free exemption from the USVI is typically higher than elsewhere in the Caribbean. Charlotte Amalie is named for a Danish queen, and many street names—Kongens, Dronningens—preserve that era.
Where to stay: For historic-town access, look around the harbor, Frenchtown, or hillside inns above town; for a quieter feel, consider the East End near Red Hook and Secret Harbour.
- Browse vacation rentals on VRBO in Charlotte Amalie (villas with kitchens, ocean-view condos, family-friendly stays).
- Search hotels on Hotels.com in Charlotte Amalie (harborfront hotels, boutique inns, beach resorts).
Getting there: Fly into Cyril E. King Airport (STT). Check fares via Trip.com flights or Kiwi.com. From Miami it’s ~2.5 hours; from NYC or ATL, ~4 hours nonstop in high season. Roundtrip fares often range $350–$800 depending on dates. Taxis from STT to Charlotte Amalie are typically $8–$12 per person (plus small bag fees).
Day 1: Arrival, Harbor Stroll, and Island Toast
Afternoon: Land in STT, taxi to your hotel, and settle in. Shake off the flight with an easy walk along the Charlotte Amalie waterfront—watch seaplanes take off and admire the historic stone warehouses that once stored rum and spices.
Evening: Dinner in Palm Passage at Amalia Café (Mediterranean-Caribbean plates, excellent paella and grilled seafood) or head to Frenchtown for Hook, Line & Sinker (dockside, fresh wahoo, conch fritters). For a nightcap, try a passionfruit daiquiri at a harbor bar on Veterans Drive or a rum tasting at a local lounge.
Day 2: Historic Charlotte Amalie and Yacht Haven Grande
Morning: Coffee and smoothies at Barefoot Buddha (near Havensight; great cold brew and breakfast wraps). Then walk the town’s heritage loop: Fort Christian (the red Danish fort and museum), Emancipation Garden, the Lutheran Church, and the 99 Steps leading to Blackbeard’s Hill views. Stop at the St. Thomas Synagogue, one of the oldest in the Western Hemisphere with a sand floor symbolizing desert wanderings.
Afternoon: Lunch at Bumpa’s (harbor-view sandwiches, johnnycake breakfast specials) or Side Street Pub (local fish, hearty plates) tucked in an alley off Main Street. Browse duty-free shops for spices, locally made hot sauces, and art. Continue to Yacht Haven Grande for marina-front strolling and boutique browsing.
Evening: Book dinner at Blue 11 in Yacht Haven (creative, tasting-menu style Caribbean cuisine—think lionfish, soursop sorbet). If you prefer views, taxi up to Mafolie Restaurant for sunset over Magens Bay, then call it an early night.
Day 3: Magens Bay, Mountain Top, and Frenchtown Flavors
Morning: Grab a cappuccino at Virgin Islands Coffee Roasters (Yacht Haven) and taxi to Magens Bay. Float in calm, glassy water, then wander the nature trail at the far end if you want a shaded walk. Chair and kayak rentals are available; arrive early to beat cruise crowds.
Afternoon: Snack at the Magens Bay beach bar (fish tacos or burgers), then ride up to Drake’s Seat for the classic overlook. Continue to Mountain Top for sweeping views of the Virgin Islands and a banana daiquiri.
Evening: Dinner in Frenchtown: Oceana Restaurant & Bistro offers candlelit seaside tables, crudo, and a deep wine list in a historic stone building. Or keep it casual at Betsy’s Bar for local vibes and pub fare. Nightcap at a small rum bar back in town.
Day 4: Coki Beach Snorkeling and Coral World
Morning: Light breakfast at Ballerina’s Deli (local favorite for johnnycakes and saltfish) and taxi to Coki Beach. The near-shore reef teems with sergeant majors and parrotfish—bring a mask or rent one on-site. If you like marine life up close, plan a visit to Coral World Ocean Park next door for sea turtle and shark encounters.
Afternoon: Head to the East End. Lunch at Lattes in Paradise (iced lattes and bagel sandwiches) or Island Time Pub upstairs for wood-fired pizza and a breezy harbor view of American Yacht Harbor.
Evening: Dress for dinner at The Easterly in Red Hook—a standout for wood-grilled local fish, cassava fritters, and clever rum cocktails in a tropical-chic setting. If you’re in the mood after, check for live music at a nearby bar.
Day 5: Day Trip to St. John — Trunk Bay and Mongoose Junction
Morning: Taxi to Red Hook and catch the passenger ferry to Cruz Bay, St. John (about 15 minutes; typically ~$9 one-way plus small port fee—bring cash). Grab a taxi to Trunk Bay for the underwater snorkel trail with signage on the seabed and perfect crescent sands.
Afternoon: Continue to Cinnamon Bay or stop at Annaberg Sugar Plantation ruins for a sobering look at plantation history and beautiful views of the Channel. Back in Cruz Bay, lunch at North Shore Deli (great salads and pressed sandwiches) or Sun Dog Café in Mongoose Junction.
Evening: Early dinner in Cruz Bay at The Longboard (crudo, poke bowls, inventive cocktails) or Morgan’s Mango (Caribbean-Creole seafood) before the ferry back to Red Hook. Return to your hotel for a relaxed night.
Day 6: Sailing and Snorkeling Charter (Buck Island or Christmas Cove)
Morning: Fuel up with a pastry and espresso at Scoops & Brew by the waterfront. Meet a half-day or full-day boat charter at Yacht Haven or Red Hook. Popular routes include Turtle Cove (Buck Island off St. Thomas) for sea turtles and rays, and Christmas Cove off Great St. James—home to a seasonal floating pizzeria. Captains typically include snorkel gear, drinks, and light bites.
Afternoon: More snorkeling and a beach stop—Secret Harbour or Lindquist if conditions are calm. If seas are bumpy, captains know protected anchorages. Bring a rash guard, hat, and plenty of water; reef-safe sunscreen only.
Evening: Sunset at Paradise Point above Havensight—ride the Skyride when operating (often on ship days) or taxi up. Consider dinner at Prime at Paradise Point (steaks, chops, and harbor lights below). Alternatively, return to town for tapas at a cozy spot in Palm Passage.
Day 7: Water Island Chill and Departure
Morning: Pack, then taxi to Crown Bay Marina for the Water Island ferry (about 10 minutes). Set up at Honeymoon Beach: rent a chair, swim in gentle surf, and order a frosty drink at Dinghy’s Beach Bar & Grill. It’s the most laid-back scene you’ll find this close to the airport.
Afternoon: Ferry back, grab a quick lunch near the harbor—try a roti shop or a final plate of conch—and do any last shopping on Main Street (think spices, rum, hot sauce, and arts). Taxi to the airport for your flight home; arrive early on peak days.
Local Dining Shortlist (Save for Any Day)
- Breakfast/coffee: Barefoot Buddha (wraps, smoothies), Virgin Islands Coffee Roasters (single-origin espresso), Bumpa’s (harbor-view breakfasts), Lattes in Paradise (East End).
- Lunch: Side Street Pub (local plates), Island Time Pub (pizza in Red Hook), North Shore Deli (Cruz Bay day-trip option).
- Dinner: Blue 11 (tasting-menu Caribbean), Oceana (seaside fine dining), The Easterly (wood-grilled seafood), Mafolie (view-rich classics), Prime at Paradise Point (steak with a skyline).
Transportation Tips and Costs
- Taxis: Shared and priced per person; typical rides run $8–$15 per person depending on distance, plus small bag fees. Always confirm the fare before you hop in.
- Ferries: Red Hook–Cruz Bay (~15 minutes; ~$9 one-way), Crown Bay–Water Island (~10 minutes; modest cash fare). Bring small bills and check the latest schedule locally.
- Car rental: Handy for multiple beach days; remember, driving is on the left. Parking in Charlotte Amalie can be tight on ship days.
When to Go and What to Pack
- Seasonality: Peak is December–April (drier, pricier). Summer–fall is warmer, with afternoon showers and a chance of storms—consider travel insurance.
- Essentials: Reef-safe sunscreen (oxybenzone, octinoxate, and octocrylene are banned), hat, rash guard, water shoes, and a dry bag for boat days.
- Shopping: The USVI’s duty-free allowance is typically more generous than elsewhere in the Caribbean; spirits and local spices are popular buys.

