Baku, capital of Azerbaijan and “the City of Winds,” has been shaped by Zoroastrian fire worship, Silk Road trade, a 19th‑century oil boom, Soviet modernism, and a dazzling 21st‑century revival. Within a day you can touch honeyed stone walls from medieval Icherisheher and, minutes later, step inside Zaha Hadid’s flowing Heydar Aliyev Center.

Few cities mix past and future so boldly: UNESCO petroglyphs lie an hour away in Gobustan, while the Caspian seafront hosts a ribbon of parks, museums, and a giant Ferris wheel. Fire—real and symbolic—still defines the Absheron Peninsula, from the Ateshgah temple to the hillside blaze of Yanar Dag.

Practical notes: most travelers can obtain an e‑visa via the official ASAN portal in about 3 business days. The local currency is the Azerbaijani manat (AZN). Bolt rides are inexpensive (typical center rides 4–10 AZN), metro trips ~0.40 AZN with a BakıKart, and the H1 Aeroexpress bus from GYD airport to the center is ~1.50 AZN. Expect superb tea culture, saffron‑fragrant plovs, herb‑stuffed qutab, and pomegranate‑bright sauces.

Baku

Baku’s heart is Icherisheher (Old City), a walled maze of caravanserais, mosques, and merchant houses. Just outside, Nizami Street and Fountain Square pulse with cafés and late‑night life, while the Seaside Boulevard arcs along the Caspian with gardens, the Carpet Museum, and “Little Venice.”

Modern icons include the Flame Towers (best at dusk), the photogenic Heydar Aliyev Center, and the wave‑shaped Carpet Museum. Don’t miss markets like Taza Bazaar for spices, nuts, and fruit, and ABAD shops for quality crafts.

• Where to stay: For Old City ambience, consider Sultan Inn or The Merchant Baku; for design and views, Fairmont Baku (Flame Towers), JW Marriott Absheron, or Four Seasons Baku near the boulevard. Compare options on Hotels.com Baku or browse apartments on VRBO Baku.
• Getting in: Fly into Heydar Aliyev International Airport (GYD). Compare fares on Trip.com (flights) or Kiwi.com (flights). If you’re originating in Europe, you can also check Omio (flights to/from Europe).
• Top tastes to try: plov, piti (lamb stew in clay), dolma, qutab (herbs/pumpkin), saj (sizzling pan dishes), Caspian sturgeon, sweet pakhlava, and black tea served with jams.

Day 1: Arrival, Boulevard breeze, and Caspian flavors

Morning: In transit. If you arrive early, drop bags and grab a light bite at CafeCity (solid omelets, syrniki, and flat whites) near Fountain Square.

Afternoon: Check in and stretch your legs along Baku Boulevard (Seaside National Park). Pop into the wave‑roofed Azerbaijan Carpet Museum for a brisk introduction to regional rugs (allow ~60–90 minutes). If time permits, float through “Little Venice” for a whimsical first look at the waterfront.

Evening: Seafood‑forward dinner at Sahil Bar & Restaurant by the boulevard—order Caspian sturgeon kebab or saffron mussels; book terrace seating if weather allows. Stroll Nizami Street for people‑watching and pastries at Mado (try pistachio baklava). Toast your first night with skyline views at Hilton’s 360 Bar—the rotating panorama takes in the Flame Towers and the bay.

Day 2: Icherisheher deep dive—Maiden Tower to Shirvanshahs

Morning: Traditional breakfast at Sehrli Təndir inside the Old City—fresh tandir bread, herb or pumpkin qutab, and strong tea. Climb the 12th‑century Maiden Tower for a rooftop view over sandstone lanes (allow ~45 minutes). Duck into ABAD Corner for crafts made by local artisans.

Afternoon: Tour the Palace of the Shirvanshahs complex (palace, mosque, mausoleum; 60–90 minutes). Lunch at Qaynana (“Grandma”) for home‑style dolma, dovga yogurt soup, and gutab. If you enjoy bathhouses, book an hour at Teze Bey Hamam—a classic Baku hammam experience.

Evening: Dinner at the Shirvanshah Museum Restaurant, part folk museum, part dining room—live mugham music pairs beautifully with saffron plov and levengi (walnut‑paste stuffed fish or chicken). Cap the night with tea at Çay Bağı 145, where samovars and fruit jams keep conversations lingering.

Day 3: Design day—Heydar Aliyev Center, Port Baku, and Flame Towers

Morning: Coffee at Baku Roasting Company (single‑origin pour‑overs and pastries), then head to the Heydar Aliyev Center. The permanent exhibits often include classic cars, national costumes, and architectural models; budget 2–3 hours. Photos outside are fantastic in morning light.

Afternoon: Taxi to Port Baku for lunch at Sumakh—modern Azerbaijani cuisine; try lamb sadj with pomegranate molasses or smoky eggplant starters. If you’re into contemporary art, swing by YARAT Contemporary Art Centre along the waterfront (free exhibits are common).

Evening: Ride the funicular to Highland Park for the classic sunset view across the bay. Walk to the base of the Flame Towers for the nightly light show. Dinner and drinks at Chinar (Pan‑Asian plates, buzzy bar, leafy courtyard)—their crispy duck and wasabi prawns are local favorites.

Day 4: Full‑day tour—Gobustan petroglyphs and the mud volcanoes

Depart ~09:00 by private car (1 hour) to Gobustan National Park. Explore the museum and rock art reserve (UNESCO) where hunters and dancers were etched into stone 5,000–10,000 years ago. Continue by 4×4 over dirt tracks to the mud volcanoes (45–60 minutes from the park); the bubbling, cold mud and lunar vistas are surreal. Expect a full day (6–8 hours). Typical costs: driver/guide 150–220 AZN per car, Gobustan entry ~10–15 AZN, a local 4×4 to the volcanoes ~30–50 AZN. Pack snacks or stop at a simple roadside café for kebabs and fresh salads.

Back in Baku, dine at Dolma Restaurant near Fountain Square—order the grape‑leaf dolma trio, piti in clay, and lamb lyulya kebab. For a nightcap, try ETUD Cafe & Bar (good cocktails, creative small plates) or a quiet tea at Çay Bağı 145.

Day 5: Absheron Peninsula—Ateshgah, Yanar Dag, and castle towers

Morning: Grab a quick breakfast at Coffeemania (reliable espresso, omelets). Drive ~35 minutes to the 17th–18th‑century Ateshgah Fire Temple in Surakhani, once a Zoroastrian and Hindu pilgrimage site. Continue 25 minutes to Yanar Dag, a natural gas seep that’s burned for decades.

Afternoon: Head to the Gala Archaeological and Ethnographic Museum Complex (open‑air village with traditional houses and crafts demos). If visiting in warm months, detour to the coast for a late lunch and a swim at Amburan Beach Club (day passes vary ~20–40 AZN; grilled fish, salads, and fruit platters). Alternatively, explore Mardakan Castle and its sister tower in the nearby Absheron villages.

Evening: Return to the city for dinner at Nergiz on Fountain Square—try qutab, shah plov, and chicken govurma. Stroll the illuminated boulevard and take a spin on the Baku Ferris Wheel if skies are clear.

Day 6: Full‑day mountain escape—Quba & Khinalig (or Shahdag in winter)

Leave around 07:30 for the Greater Caucasus. It’s ~3–3.5 hours to Quba, passing apple orchards and the Qecresh Forest. Make a short stop in the historic Red Village (Krasnaya Sloboda), home to the Mountain Jewish community. Continue another 1.5–2 hours up serpentine roads to Khinalig, one of the region’s highest, oldest villages with stone homes and vast alpine views. Enjoy a simple village lunch (fresh bread, salads, kebabs, herbal teas). In winter, swap Khinalig for Shahdag ski resort (rentals and slopes for all levels). Expect a 12‑hour day; private car/driver typically 250–350 AZN round‑trip.

Return to Baku and keep dinner easy: Firuze near Fountain Square does hearty classics (toyug levengi, liver with pomegranate, and warm tandir bread).

Day 7: Markets, museums, and a Caspian farewell

Morning: Breakfast at Araz Cafe—Soviet‑era vibe, hearty portions—and then browse Taza Bazaar (also called Green/Fresh Bazaar). Stock up on saffron, dried fruit, spices, and local honey (vacuum‑pack on request). Prices are fair; cash preferred.

Afternoon: Choose a last museum: the National Museum of History (tsarist‑era mansion, archaeological to modern exhibits) or a deeper dive at the Carpet Museum if you skimmed it earlier. Lunch at Sahil or Sumakh, depending on your mood—sea breeze or modern Azeri.

Evening: If timing allows before your flight, take a short Caspian bay boat ride from the boulevard kiosk (usually 30–60 minutes; weather dependent). For a final view‑rich meal, book Zeytun (top floor above the boulevard) for dolma, kebabs, and salads with pomegranate dressing. Pick up bags and transfer to the airport (Bolt taxi to GYD ~25–40 minutes; 15–25 AZN). Compare any last‑minute flights on Trip.com or Kiwi.com.

Optional tips and logistics:

• Neighborhoods: Stay in Icherisheher for history, around Fountain Square/Nizami for cafés and nightlife, or along the Boulevard/Port Baku for modern comforts and water views.
• Transit: The H1 airport bus to 28 May station is cheap and reliable (about every 30 minutes). Taxis via Bolt are fast; confirm the route on the app.
• Costs (typical): museum tickets 5–20 AZN, café breakfasts 6–15 AZN, mid‑range dinners 25–45 AZN per person, coffee 3–6 AZN.
• Where to book stays: Hotels.com Baku and VRBO Baku.

Across seven days, Baku reveals its layers: medieval lanes, Art Nouveau facades, contemporary curves, and landscapes where earth itself bubbles and burns. Come hungry for saffron and stories—and leave with windswept memories and a camera full of blue‑hour light.