Alter do Chão is the Amazon’s most surprising beach town: white, powdery sandbars, turquoise-clear river water, and a slow rhythm shaped by the Tapajós River. Founded by the Portuguese in the 18th century near the homeland of the Tapajó people, it sits an hour from Santarém yet feels wonderfully remote.

Nicknamed the “Caribbean of the Amazon,” its star is the Ilha do Amor sandbar, which emerges in the dry season like a crescent of sand between the Tapajós and Lago Verde. When rains rise, canoe routes slip into flooded forests rich with birds, monkeys, and giant trees.

Plan around the seasons: August–December brings sandy beaches and sunsets at Ponta do Cururu; January–June favors canoeing through igapó (flooded forest). Bring cash (ATMs are limited), reef-safe sunscreen, a hat, and effective repellent. Come hungry for tambaqui ribs, pirarucu steaks, manioc, tucupi, and cupuaçu desserts.

Alter do Chão

Alter do Chão is compact and easy to love. The village square hums at night with carimbó rhythms and craft stalls, while days are for boat trips to sandbars and rainforest communities. The hike up Serra da Piroca rewards with a sweeping view of emerald river and white shoals.

Top sights and experiences include Ilha do Amor, Lago Verde canoes, Serra da Piroca sunrise, Ponta de Pedras and Ponta do Cururu beach-hopping by speedboat, and a day in the Floresta Nacional do Tapajós (Flona) to see towering samaúma trees and learn rubber-tapping history.

• Where to stay: Search lakeside bungalows and pousadas on VRBO or browse hotels and guesthouses on Hotels.com. Popular, traveler-vetted options as of 2025 include Hotel Borari (central, reliable A/C and pool), Beloalter Hotel (rustic-chic by Lago Verde), and Pousada Vila Alter (boutique vibe, leafy grounds).
• Getting there: Fly into Santarém (STM) via Belém, Manaus, Brasília, or São Paulo. Check fares on Trip.com flights or Kiwi.com. Typical times: 1–2 h from Manaus/Belém; 4–7 h with a connection from São Paulo or Rio; advance round-trips often range ~US$140–$380.
• Transfer to town: STM to Alter do Chão is ~38 km (35–50 min). Airport taxis/rides ~R$120–180; shared vans when available ~R$30–50 pp. In Alter, walking and boats cover most needs.

Day 1: Arrival, First Dip at Ilha do Amor, and Village Flavors

Morning: Travel day. If you have a connection through Belém or Manaus, try a window seat for river views over the lower Amazon.

Afternoon: Land at STM, transfer to your pousada, and settle in. Stroll to the waterfront and take a quick boat shuttle (5–10 min) to Ilha do Amor for a first swim in the Tapajós—its startling clarity is all freshwater, not salt.

Evening: Sunset caipirinha on the sand, then dinner at Siriá (grilled tambaqui ribs, pirarucu with Brazil-nut crust; relaxed lakeside) or Farol da Ilha (moqueca Amazon-style, fried jaraqui; views of the lit-up village). Wander the square after; on weekends you may catch live carimbó percussion and dancing.

Day 2: Lago Verde Canoes and Beach Day on the Tapajós

Morning: Breakfast at Café com Arte (strong espresso, tapioquinha with queijo coalho, açai bowls). Rent a canoe or kayak on the waterfront (R$25–50/hour) and paddle into Lago Verde, weaving through quiet channels lined with açaí palms and birdlife—kingfishers, hawks, and the occasional squirrel monkey.

Afternoon: Claim a shaded table at a beach hut on Ilha do Amor. Order peixe frito (tucunaré), farinha and vinagrete, and fresh cupuaçu juice; plates typically R$40–80. Between dips, try stand-up paddleboarding (R$50–80/hour). In high-water months, ask for a short guided canoe into flooded forest ‘igapó’ for mirror-calm photos.

Evening: Dinner at Arco-Íris (tambaqui na brasa, maniçoba on weekends, cold draft beer) with river breezes. Cap with Amazon-fruit ice cream—cupuaçu or taperebá—from a gelato cart near the square.

Day 3: Flona do Tapajós — Giant Trees and Rubber-Tapping Heritage

Morning: Early pickup (about 7:30–8:00) for a day trip to the Floresta Nacional do Tapajós (approx. 1.5–2 h by road/boat to communities like Jamaraquá). Hike with a local guide to cathedral-like samaúma trees and learn how latex was extracted during the rubber boom. Expect 6–10 km of easy-to-moderate trails; bring water, hat, and repellent.

Afternoon: Lunch in a community kitchen (R$40–60; fish stews, cassava, salad). After, a short canoe on blackwater creeks or a cool swim from a sandy bank. Browse artisans’ work—biofiber bags, andiroba oil, and natural-latex crafts support the community economy.

Evening: Return to Alter (by ~6–7 pm). Light dinner at Café com Arte (savory tapiocas, juices) or share açaí with granola and banana. Early night recommended after a forest day.

Day 4: Ponta de Pedras and Ponta do Cururu by Speedboat

Morning: Board a shared speedboat (R$180–300 pp) or charter (R$700–1,200 per boat for 6–8 pax) to Ponta de Pedras and nearby sandbars. These Tapajós beaches feel like sea islands—white sand, green water, zero salt. Snorkel the clear shallows and watch for freshwater stingrays (don’t worry—shuffle feet, don’t step).

Afternoon: Lunch at a riverside community restaurant—simple, excellent fish-of-the-day, rice, beans, salad, and farofa (plan R$50–80). Swim-and-stroll stops on tiny beaches with names that change as the river moves them.

Evening: Finish at Ponta do Cururu, famed for golden sunsets and frequent sightings of pink dolphins (botos). Keep respectful distance—no touching or feeding. Back in town, toast the day with caipirinhas; if your boat went to “Casa do Saulo – Praia” near Cururu (seasonal), consider dinner there for refined Amazon flavors.

Day 5: Serra da Piroca Sunrise, SUP on Lago Verde, and Beach Piracaia

Morning: Pre-dawn start for Serra da Piroca (guide optional but recommended in the dark). The 45–75 min climb rises through sandy scrub to a 360° panorama of the Tapajós and Ilha do Amor—sun ignites the river like glass. A small community fee may apply (bring ~R$10–20 cash).

Afternoon: Recover with a long lunch at Siriá (try pirarucu with banana pacovã) or a beach hut feast. Then rent a SUP and glide across Lago Verde; water is so clear you’ll spot fish shadows beneath.

Evening: Experience a traditional piracaia—fresh fish grilled over driftwood fires right on the sand. Ask your boatman or pousada to arrange (typ. R$60–100 pp including sides). If it’s a weekend, the main square often hosts live forró or carimbó—dance with locals and cool down with taperebá caipifruta.

Day 6: Santarém Day Trip — Markets and the Meeting of the Waters

Morning: Head to Santarém (35–50 min by car). Start at the fish market by the Orla (Mercadão 2000 area) to see colossal tambaqui and pirarucu. Continue to Museu João Fona for regional history and river archaeology, and walk the Mirante do Tapajós for a sweeping overlook.

Afternoon: Lunch at the hilltop Casa do Saulo (flagship restaurant outside town—panoramic deck, creative takes on jambu, tucupi, and Amazon fish; book ahead). Then take a short boat tour to the Encontro das Águas, where blue-green Tapajós meets the coffee-brown Amazon—the colors run side-by-side for kilometers.

Evening: Return to Alter do Chão. Casual pizza or açaí bowl in town keeps it light after a big lunch, or try Farol da Ilha for a late bite and nightcap.

Day 7: Canal do Jari Canoes (Rainy Season) or Lazy Beach Finale (Dry Season)

Morning: If waters are high (roughly Jan–Jun), arrange canoes to the Canal do Jari—a labyrinth of flooded forest rich with herons and igapó reflections (half-day, R$120–220 pp with guide/boat). In dry months, savor a final swim at Ilha do Amor and browse the craft stalls (carvings, seed jewelry, and biofiber baskets).

Afternoon: Long, unhurried lunch toes-in-sand—order caldeirada (Amazon fish stew) and fresh juices. Pack up, settle your tab in cash if needed, and transfer to STM for an afternoon flight. Check options on Trip.com flights or Kiwi.com.

Evening: If staying one extra night, time your visit for September’s Sairé Festival, a century-old celebration blending Indigenous and Catholic traditions with nightly music, boat parades, and the “Boto” folkloric pageant—Alter at its most festive.

Practical Tips and Booking Notes

• Seasonality: Aug–Dec = best beaches and sunsets; Jan–Jun = best canoes in flooded forest. Water levels shape itineraries day-to-day.
• Tours and costs: Shared boat days R$180–300 pp; private speedboats R$700–1,200 per boat; Flona day trips R$220–400 pp incl. guide/transport; community lunches R$40–60. Always confirm fuel surcharges in advance.
• Health & safety: Powerful sun—use hats, long sleeves, and reapply sunscreen often. Shuffle feet in shallow sand to avoid stepping on stingrays. Respect wildlife; do not touch or feed dolphins.
• Payments: Many beach huts are cash-only; bring small bills. Wi‑Fi and card machines can be patchy during storms.
• Where to book: Secure flights on Trip.com or Kiwi.com, and compare stays on VRBO and Hotels.com.

Across seven days you’ll swim at Amazon “beaches,” drift through mirror-still creeks, climb to a panoramic ridge, and dine on some of Brazil’s most distinctive river cuisine. Alter do Chão balances soulful simplicity with spectacular nature—the kind of place you arrive in for a week and dream about for years.