The Catskills are the cradle of American dry-fly fishing. Theodore Gordon refined patterns here in the early 1900s, and the region’s freestone creeks—Beaverkill, Willowemoc, and Esopus—still teach anglers the art of reading pocket water and matching the hatch. Add in the cold, bug-rich tailwaters of the Upper Delaware, and you have a week’s worth of water ranging from intimate riffles to big-river drift-boat days.

Beyond trout, this Upstate New York itinerary delivers covered bridges, craft breweries, vintage diners, and trailheads that climb into spruce-scented high peaks. You’ll split time between Livingston Manor/Roscoe (“Trout Town USA”) and Phoenicia, two lively gateways with river access, solid fly shops, and excellent food.

Practical notes: You’ll need a New York State freshwater fishing license (catch-and-release with artificial lures is open year-round in many reaches; harvest seasons vary—always check current DEC regulations). Spring brings Hendricksons and caddis; June offers Sulphurs and Isonychias; summer favors terrestrials at dawn/dusk; fall sees migrating browns. Flows change quickly—watch USGS gauges and reservoir releases, wade with a staff, and respect posted private land.

Livingston Manor (Roscoe area)

Base yourself where fly-fishing lore was written. Livingston Manor and neighboring Roscoe sit minutes from the Beaverkill and Willowemoc, with classic pools like Junction Pool, Cairns, and Barnhart’s. The Catskill Fly Fishing Center & Museum preserves the stories, while contemporary fly shops keep you dialed into bugs and flows.

• Top water: Willowemoc Creek (gentler gradient, ideal for wading); Beaverkill River (larger freestone with famous named pools); West/East Branch Delaware (45–60 minutes west for drift-boat or technical dry-fly days).
• Fly shops & guides: Dette Flies (bench-made tradition and sharp intel), The Beaverkill Angler (gear, access tips, guiding). For Delaware floats, look to West Branch Angler & Resort or Delaware River Club guide services.
• Eat & drink: The Kaatskeller (wood-fired pies, yard seating), Main Street Farm (market-sandwiches for streamside lunches), The Walk In (casual breakfast and coffee), Catskill Brewery (lagers and IPAs), Upward Brewing (“Beer Mountain” hike-to-pint experience). For a special night, book The DeBruce’s tasting menu.
• Fun fact: The Beaverkill Covered Bridge (1880) and riverside park make an iconic post-fishing stroll.

Where to stay: Search riverside cabins and inns on VRBO Livingston Manor or compare hotels and lodges on Hotels.com Livingston Manor. Consider boutique stays like The DeBruce or The Arnold House, or a simple creekside cabin with a fire pit and gear room.

Getting here: Fly into NYC (JFK/LGA/EWR), Stewart International (SWF), or Albany (ALB), then rent a car (essential for hopping rivers). Price flights on Trip.com flights or Kiwi.com. If arriving from Europe, you can also check Omio flights.

Phoenicia (Mount Tremper/Shandaken)

Nestled along the Esopus Creek, Phoenicia blends trout-town grit with mountain artsy. The creek’s boulder gardens and fast glides reward precise wading and short, accurate casts. Woodstock is within easy reach, and trailheads rise quickly to Giant Ledge and Slide Mountain.

• Top water: Esopus Creek from Allaben through Mount Tremper (watch Shandaken Tunnel releases); small tributaries like Woodland Valley Brook for light rods and stealthy dries.
• Fly shop & guides: Esopus Creel (excellent local flows intel, guiding, and seasonal cafe breakfast burritos that belong in a vest pocket).
• Eat & drink: Phoenicia Diner (modern-classic breakfasts on Route 28), Brio’s Pizzeria (NY pies and huge salads), The Phoenician Steakhouse (post-river protein), Woodstock Brewing (IPAs and smash burgers), Bread Alone (Boiceville bakery for pre-dawn croissants).
• Do more: Rail Explorers Catskills (pedal the old rails along the creek), Town Tinker tubing (high-summer thrills), and the world’s largest kaleidoscope at Emerson.

Where to stay: Compare cabins, lodges, and riverside cottages on VRBO Phoenicia or browse inns and resorts on Hotels.com Phoenicia. Look for places with gear sheds, drying racks, and easy creek access.

Getting there from Livingston Manor: Drive NY-17 to NY-28 east, about 1 hour (37–45 miles). Gas for the transfer runs roughly $8–12.

Day 1: Arrival, licenses, and a Willowemoc warm-up (Livingston Manor)

Afternoon: Land at SWF/ALB/NYC and pick up your rental car. Price flights on Trip.com or Kiwi.com. Check in, then stop at Dette Flies or The Beaverkill Angler for a license, fresh leaders, and the day’s bugs (ask about Hendricksons/Blue-Winged Olives if spring).

Evening: Sneak a short wade at Willowemoc Covered Bridge Park—easy access, gentle current, and rising fish near dusk. Dry-dropper rigs (Parachute Adams + small pheasant tail) are confidence setups. Dinner at The Kaatskeller for wood-fired mushroom pie and a Catskill Brewery pilsner; if you’re still buzzing, catch last light at Junction Pool in Roscoe.

Day 2: Guided wading on the Beaverkill and Willowemoc

Morning: Coffee and egg sandwiches at The Walk In, then meet a local guide (Dette Flies or Beaverkill Angler). Start on the Beaverkill—Cairns or Barnhart’s Pool at first light. Nymph the seams with a #14–16 soft hackle or Walt’s Worm; switch to emergers if noses appear.

Afternoon: Move to the Willowemoc’s riffle-run sections upstream (Hazel Bridge area). When the sun’s high, work shaded banks with a #16 caddis or a small black ant. Grab a to-go lunch from Main Street Farm—smoked trout salad is on-theme.

Evening: Clean up for dinner at The DeBruce (reserve ahead; tasting menu celebrates local Catskills produce and trout-country history). Nightcap at Catskill Brewery’s barrel room or a short walk under the stars—these towns go quiet early.

Day 3: Upper Delaware drift for big wild fish

Morning: Early drive (~50 minutes) to Hancock for a full-day float on the West or East Branch Delaware with West Branch Angler & Resort or Delaware River Club guides. This is technical dry-fly water—long leaders (12–14 ft) and precise drag-free drifts.

Afternoon: Work classic pools and tailouts. In late spring, be ready for Sulphur and March Brown windows; in summer, hunt heads with olives and tiny spinners. Many guides provide shore lunches; otherwise, pack deli sandwiches from Main Street Farm.

Evening: Post-float dinner back toward Roscoe—Raimondo’s for homestyle Italian—or sample Roscoe Beer Co.’s flight. If energy allows, last-light casts at Junction Pool, where Beaverkill and Willowemoc meet.

Day 4: Museum morning, transfer to Phoenicia, Esopus scout

Morning: Stop at the Catskill Fly Fishing Center & Museum (allow 45–60 minutes) to see Catskill-style dries, bamboo rods, and historic tying benches. Drive 1 hour to Phoenicia via NY-28, check into your lodge or cabin.

Afternoon: Lunch at Phoenicia Diner—get the trout reuben or skillet hash—then wader up. Start near Mount Tremper for forgiving access. The Esopus fishes best with active presentations: tight-line nymph the pockets or swing a soft hackle across riffles.

Evening: Dinner at Brio’s (margherita pie and a big green salad). Toast the day at Woodstock Brewing; their hazy IPAs pair well with river reports from the next table.

Day 5: Esopus day with a local guide

Morning: Meet Esopus Creel for a guided wade. Ask about Shandaken Tunnel release timing—the added cold water can switch the bite on. Focus on short-line drifts and hit the heads of runs; browns sit where oxygen and food collide.

Afternoon: Lunch from Esopus Creel’s cafe (in season) or Bread Alone in Boiceville. Try dries in softer seams—#16–18 tan caddis and small parachutes often produce. Terrestrials (ants/beetles) shine from mid-July through September.

Evening: Ease into the spa or steam at Emerson (day passes often available), then dinner at The Phoenician Steakhouse—order a ribeye or the trout almondine. Night walk along the Esopus with headlamps to listen for sippers.

Day 6: Hike-and-fish or rail-biking and evening hatch

Morning: Option A: Dawn hike to Giant Ledge (3.2 miles round trip to the ledges; add Panther Mountain if you’re ambitious). Pack a thermos and a pastry from Bread Alone. Option B: Rail Explorers Catskills ride (reserve ahead)—a novel way to trace the creek’s course.

Afternoon: Light-rod session on Woodland Valley Brook—small wild trout, tight canopies, stealth and short casts with #16 elk-hair caddis. Or, if it’s midsummer, rent tubes with Town Tinker and float a mellow section of the Esopus for a change of pace.

Evening: Target the Esopus “magic hour” with an Isonychia or rusty spinner if in season. Dinner at Peekamoose Restaurant & Tap Room in Big Indian (seasonal Catskills menu; the house-made charcuterie and trout are standouts). Grab a slice of pie from Phoenicia Sweet Shoppe if it’s open late.

Day 7: Last casts and departure

Morning: Coffee in town and a final hour on the Esopus—swing a soft hackle through a favorite riffle or drift a small pheasant tail under a high-floating dry. Keep it short; you’ve already won.

Afternoon: Pack up and head to your airport. Compare fares on Trip.com or Kiwi.com. If you’re Europe-bound, also see Omio flights. Expect a 2–3 hour drive to NYC airports, ~1 hour to SWF, ~1.5 hours to ALB.

Practical stream intel and quick budget

• Flows & safety: Watch USGS gauges for the Beaverkill, Willowemoc, Esopus, and West Branch Delaware. The Esopus rises fast after rain and releases; wade conservatively with a staff and studded boots.
• Hatches: Apr–May (Hendrickson, caddis), June (Sulphur, Isonychia), Jul–Aug (terrestrials at dawn/dusk), Sep–Oct (caddis, olives; browns on the move). Bring 5X and some 6X for Delaware spookiness.
• Guides/day rates (2025 typical): Wade trips ~$450–650/day for 1–2 anglers; Delaware floats ~$600–800/day for 1–2. Tips 15–20% for great days.
• Car & fuel: Rental cars often $60–100/day; gas for the full week ~$60–100 depending on side trips.
• Gear: 9' 4–5 wt for freestones; 9' 5–6 wt for Delaware. Studded boots, wading staff, polarized glasses, rain jacket.
• Respect: Many accesses are easements—mind gates, pack out tippet, and give space on popular pools.

Where to book lodging: Livingston Manor: VRBO | Hotels.com — Phoenicia: VRBO | Hotels.com

One week in the Catskills gives you a sampler of America’s most storied trout water—from classic Willowemoc riffles to the Delaware’s cautious sippers and the fast, musical Esopus. You’ll eat well, sleep deeply, and come home with new patterns, new pools, and a few fish that will visit your daydreams. Tight lines.