7 Days Along France’s Canal du Midi: Toulouse to Carcassonne by Bike, Boat, and Bite

Drift beneath plane trees, taste cassoulet and Minervois wines, and explore medieval Carcassonne on a 7-day Canal du Midi itinerary based in Toulouse and Carcassonne.

The Canal du Midi is one of Europe’s most storied waterways—a 17th-century feat by Pierre-Paul Riquet linking the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. Its hand-built locks, stone bridges, and shady towpaths made it a maritime shortcut; today they make a slow-travel paradise for cyclists, walkers, and leisurely boaters.

UNESCO-listed since 1996, the canal runs 240 km from Toulouse to the salt lagoons near Sète. You’ll pass vineyards, sleepy ports, and plane trees (many being carefully replanted after disease), with easy hop-offs for cassoulet, duck confit, and sun-soaked terraces. The rhythm is unhurried: glide, taste, linger, repeat.

Plan for spring to early fall (April–October) when locks keep regular hours and boat hire is plentiful. Helmets for cycling are smart, sunscreen essential, and advance bookings for boats recommended in summer. This 7-day itinerary bases you in Toulouse and Carcassonne—perfect anchors for bikes, boats, and bastides.

Toulouse

Toulouse, the “Pink City,” glows at sunset when its brick façades take on a rosy hue. It’s a hub for aerospace (Airbus and the Concorde at Aeroscopia), Romanesque and Gothic marvels like Basilique Saint-Sernin and Les Jacobins, and a vibrant food scene centered on Marché Victor Hugo.

The Canal du Midi begins right here, slipping quietly past Port Saint-Sauveur. Bike hire is easy, the towpath is flat, and cafés spill onto squares with glasses of Gaillac and Fronton wines. Evenings are for the Garonne: sun setting behind Pont Neuf; locals perched on the quays.

  • Top sights: Place du Capitole, Basilique Saint-Sernin, Couvent des Jacobins, Prairie des Filtres riverbank, Canal du Midi towpath.
  • Eat & drink: cassoulet at Chez Émile; duck and terroir plates at J’Go; pastries at Perlette; award-winning pours at N°5 Wine Bar.
  • Fun fact: Toulouse’s signature sausage (saucisse de Toulouse) dates to the 18th century—try it grilled or nestled in cassoulet.

Stay: Browse stays near Capitole, Carmes, or Saint-Cyprien: Toulouse on VRBO or Toulouse on Hotels.com.

Getting there: Compare flights and trains with Omio (flights in Europe), Omio (trains), and Omio (buses). Paris–Toulouse by train is ~4.5–5 hours (€35–€120); Barcelona–Toulouse ~3.5–4.5 hours with a change in Narbonne (€35–€90).

Carcassonne

Carcassonne is a two-for-one: a lively lower town (Bastide Saint-Louis) crisscrossed by café-lined streets, and “La Cité,” the double-walled medieval fortress that looks plucked from a storybook. The canal slices by the bastide’s edge, with a petite port for day boats and bike routes.

From here, you can glide through locks to Trèbes, picnic under plane trees, and sip Minervois in rustic tasting rooms. As dusk falls, the citadel’s ramparts glow—an unforgettable walk after dinner.

  • Top sights: Cité de Carcassonne ramparts and Château Comtal, Port de Carcassonne on the Canal du Midi, Place Carnot market.
  • Eat & drink: cassoulet at Le Trivalou; refined Occitan plates at Restaurant Comte Roger; wines from Minervois and Corbières.
  • Fun fact: La Cité’s 52 towers were restored by Viollet-le-Duc in the 19th century; count them on your evening circuit.

Stay: For easy canal and citadel access, base in the Bastide or near Port de Carcassonne: Carcassonne on VRBO or Carcassonne on Hotels.com.

Getting there from Toulouse: TER trains take ~45–75 minutes (€9–€15). Check times and book with Omio (trains in Europe).

Day 1: Arrive in Toulouse, First Tastes and Towpaths

Afternoon: Arrive and settle near Capitole or Carmes. Stretch your legs from Place du Capitole to Basilique Saint-Sernin, then pause at the serene cloister of Les Jacobins. Coffee pick-me-up: Café Cerise by the Garonne or La Fiancée (great flat whites and a seasonal pastry case).

Evening: Golden-hour stroll on Pont Neuf and the quays at Prairie des Filtres. Dinner ideas: Le Bibent for Belle Époque grandeur and southwest classics; or J’Go for duck magret and garlicky white beans. Nightcap at N°5 Wine Bar—sip by-the-glass picks curated from Occitanie and beyond.

Day 2: Bikes, Market Bites, and Aviation Icons

Morning: Get oriented with a guided spin through the “Pink City.” Book The essential of Toulouse by bike. 2–3 hours explores architecture, canals, and Toulouse life—a fun warm-up before longer canal rides.

The essential of Toulouse by bike on Viator

Afternoon: Feast your way through the city’s food heart with the Toulouse Victor Hugo Market Small Group Tasting Tour—learn how locals shop, taste cheeses and charcuterie, and pick up saucisse de Toulouse tips.

Toulouse Victor Hugo Market Small Group Tasting Tour on Viator

Then ride Tram Line T1 to Blagnac for aviation history at Aeroscopia—Concorde cockpits, A380 walk-throughs, and model galleries. Skip-the-line with Aeroscopia Admission Ticket.

Aeroscopia Admission Ticket on Viator

Evening: Aperitif on Place Saint-Georges. Dinner at Au Pois Gourmand (a riverside mansion with seasonal menus) or Le Genty Magre (modern regional plates). For dessert, swing by Perlette for lemon tart or Paris-Brest.

Day 3: Optional Spiritual Detour—Lourdes from Toulouse

Full day: If you’re keen to pair the canal with Pyrenean spirit, take a small-group excursion with Guided Small Group Day Tour from Toulouse to Lourdes. You’ll visit the Grotto and Sanctuary with time for reflection and lunch in town before returning in the evening.

Guided Small Group Day Tour from Toulouse to Lourdes on Viator

Evening (back in Toulouse): Keep it simple: galettes and cider at Le Grenier de Pépé, or cassoulet at Chez Émile if you haven’t yet indulged. Digestif at The Fat Cat (speakeasy-style cocktails near Esquirol).

Day 4: To Carcassonne—Citadel Walks and Canal Sunsets

Morning: Board a TER to Carcassonne (~45–75 minutes, €9–€15; book via Omio). Drop bags at your lodging near the Bastide or canal port. Coffee on Place Carnot at Café Félix to get your bearings.

Afternoon: Stroll the Bastide Saint-Louis grid to the Port de Carcassonne on the canal. Watch boats slip through the lock and note how lockkeepers guide lines. Pop into Les Halles (market days vary) for picnic supplies.

Evening: Head up to La Cité before sunset; loop the outer lices for views to the Black Mountains. Dinner inside the walls at Le Trivalou (hearty cassoulet) or Restaurant Comte Roger (garden terrace, refined Occitan dishes). Nightcap at the Bar à Vins near Basilique Saint-Nazaire.

Day 5: Your Canal du Midi Boat Day (Carcassonne ⇄ Trèbes)

Morning: Pick up a license-free day boat at Port de Carcassonne (ask locally for hourly or full-day rentals). Cruise east toward Trèbes; you’ll navigate leafy reaches and the Villedubert and Trèbes locks—great fun to watch and handle with staff guidance. Locks typically pause around lunch; plan accordingly.

Afternoon: Moor in Trèbes for a picnic—baguette, cheeses, olives, and fruit from Place Carnot’s market (Tues/Thurs/Sat) or Les Halles. If time allows, wander the old bridge and church, then begin your return leg under the sheltering plane trees.

Evening: Back in Carcassonne, celebrate with dinner at Le Jardin de la Tour (intimate, seasonal) or the locals’ favorite Le Clos des Framboisiers (a hidden garden spot—reserve ahead). An after-dinner stroll on the lit ramparts is magic.

Day 6: Towpath Cycling and Minervois Wines

Morning: Rent bikes (ask for hybrids and a repair kit) from outfitters near the station or canal. Ride the flat towpath to Trèbes (7 km) and onward to Marseillette (15 km from Carcassonne) with vineyard views. Detour to Rustiques for a tasting at Château Canet or head north to O’Vineyards (check opening hours).

Afternoon: Lunch on the canal at a simple guinguette in season, or grab salads and quiche at a village boulangerie. Spin back to Carcassonne with time for the Château Comtal museum inside La Cité for a crash course in the fortress’s layered history.

Evening: Aperitif on Place Carnot; dinner at Restaurant Comte Roger if you missed it, or modern bistro plates at Le Passage. Sweet finish: artisanal ice cream from a citadel kiosk while the towers glow.

Day 7: Easy Mornings and Departure

Morning: A final canal amble from Port de Carcassonne toward the next lock, watching anglers and joggers greet the day. Brunch or coffee at Café Félix or a croissant stop at a Bastide bakery.

Afternoon: Depart by train: Carcassonne → Toulouse (~1 hour) for flights, or Carcassonne → Narbonne (~40 minutes) to continue toward the Mediterranean. Compare routes and tickets on Omio (trains) and Omio (flights in Europe).

Where to Stay (Quick Picks)

  • Toulouse: For markets and nightlife, stay near Capitole/Carmes. Browse VRBO or Hotels.com.
  • Carcassonne: For easy canal access with quick walks to La Cité, choose the Bastide or near Port de Carcassonne. See VRBO or Hotels.com.

Canal Tips

  • Bike hire: Look for shops near Gare Matabiau and the canal in Toulouse (e.g., local outfitters like Paulette and La Maison du Vélo) offering one-way options and panniers.
  • Boats: Day boats are license-free; bring sun protection and gloves for lines. Locks typically observe a midday pause; staff will guide you through procedures.
  • Best seasons: April–June and September–October for mild weather; July–August are hottest and busiest—reserve bikes and boats ahead.

In a week you’ll trace the Canal du Midi from its urban origins in Toulouse to Carcassonne’s storybook ramparts—by pedal, by prow, and on foot. Expect languid water, generous tables, and a sense that time itself moves at canal speed. Bon voyage.

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