6 Days in Montréal & The Laurentians: Cycle Le P’tit Train du Nord from Saint‑Jérôme to Mont‑Tremblant
Quebec’s Laurentian Mountains were once stitched together by a 19th‑century railway; today, the rails are gone and the route is reborn as Le P’tit Train du Nord, a beloved 232‑km cycling trail of smooth asphalt, crushed stone, old stations turned cafés, and lake‑trimmed scenery. In mid to late September, cool mornings and bursts of maple reds and birch gold make this one of Canada’s great fall bike trips.
Montréal, founded in 1642, frames your journey with culture and cuisine—bagels from wood‑fired ovens, St‑Laurent smoked meat, and cobblestones of Vieux‑Montréal. North of the city, Saint‑Jérôme is “km 0” of the trail and an easy staging point for rentals, tune‑ups, and luggage shuttles. Val‑David and Mont‑Tremblant add artsy streets, microbreweries, and mountain‑ringed lakes.
Practical notes: expect daytime highs around 13–20°C and crisp evenings; pack layers, light gloves, and a rain shell. The trail grade is gentle (it’s an old railbed), with long paved sections south of Mont‑Tremblant and well‑maintained crushed stone to the north. French is widely spoken, English is understood in tourist areas; tipping is customary (15–20%).
Saint‑Jérôme
Gateway to the Laurentians and km 0 of Le P’tit Train du Nord, Saint‑Jérôme centers on Place de la Gare—an old station reborn as the trailhead, visitor hub, and café stop. It’s the perfect overnight before rolling out.
- Top bites & brews: Start strong at Café de la Gare (espresso, croissants) right by the trailhead. For dinner, the original Dieu du Ciel! brewpub pours cult‑favorite Quebec ales with a seasonal bistro menu.
- Bike support: Local shops offer rentals (standard, hybrid, and e‑bikes), panniers, and last‑minute tune‑ups near the station.
- Stay here: For convenience to km 0, look near Place de la Gare. Browse Hotels.com: Saint‑Jérôme or apartment‑style stays via VRBO: Saint‑Jérôme.
Val‑David
An artsy village with a mountain backdrop, Val‑David sits right on the trail with galleries, bakeries, and the Parc régional Val‑David–Val‑Morin nearby for short hikes and rock‑ribbed vistas.
- Where to eat: Café C’est La Vie (latte and baguette sandwiches), Le Baril Roulant (riverside microbrew + hearty pub plates), and La Table des Gourmets (polished Quebec‑French).
- Sleep: Quiet inns and riverside chalets abound. See Hotels.com: Val‑David and VRBO: Val‑David.
Mont‑Tremblant
Quebec’s mountain playground has two personalities: the lakeside Old Village (right on the trail) and the pedestrian resort village at the ski hill. Both brim with patios, craft beer, and creperies.
- Don’t miss: Microbrasserie La Diable (amber ales, big burgers), La Maison de la Crêpe (sweet/savory stacks), La Petite Cachée (warm, wood‑fired seasonal plates).
- Stay: From boutique inns in the Old Village to resort hotels by the gondola. Compare on Hotels.com: Mont‑Tremblant or browse chalets via VRBO: Mont‑Tremblant.
Montréal
Historic Vieux‑Montréal meets creative neighborhoods like Mile End and the Plateau. Between bagels, poutine, markets, and river views, you’ll squeeze in a delicious finale before your flight.
- Essential eats: Olive et Gourmando (Old Montréal café‑bakery), St‑Viateur or Fairmount bagels (Mile End, wood‑fired), Schwartz’s Deli (smoked meat), and La Banquise (classic and creative poutines).
- Activities (Viator picks):

Old Montreal Guided Food Tour with 8+ Local Delicacies Tastings — trace iconic streets while sampling bagels, canelés, craft beer, and more.

Old Montreal Small‑Group Walking Tour (Max 10) — a local’s take on Notre‑Dame, Place d’Armes, and hidden lanes.

Museum of Illusions Montréal — a playful hour between flights or before lunch.
- Stays: Base yourself near Old Montréal or downtown for easy airport access. See Hotels.com: Montréal or VRBO: Montréal.
How to get there (best nonstop flights from Calgary)
- Nonstop airlines: Air Canada and WestJet typically operate direct YYC→YUL (≈4h00). For the best deals, compare on Trip.com (flights) and Kiwi.com (flights).
- When to book: For mid–late September 2026, start tracking fares 5–7 months out; buy when roundtrips dip in the USD $260–$420 (CAD $350–$560) range for basic economy, more if you check bags.
- Bike policy tip: If you plan to fly your own bikes, confirm sports‑equipment fees (often CAD $50–$118 each way) and box size limits with your chosen airline before booking. Otherwise, rent at the trailhead.
Transfers to/from the trail
- Montréal–Saint‑Jérôme: 1–1.25 hours by car; rideshare/taxi from YUL is ~CAD $120–$160 to Saint‑Jérôme. The Exo commuter train from central Montréal to Saint‑Jérôme takes about 1h20 (bikes allowed off‑peak; fare roughly CAD $9–$11).
- Shuttles: Luggage/bike shuttles run segments of the P’tit Train du Nord; expect CAD $60–$95 per person depending on distance. Book a day ahead in September.
Day 1 — Sunday: Fly Calgary to Montréal, transfer to Saint‑Jérôme (shake‑out ride)
Morning: Nonstop YYC→YUL (≈4h). Compare live fares and times on Trip.com and Kiwi.com. Aim to land early afternoon.
Afternoon: Transfer to Saint‑Jérôme (≈1–1.25h). Check in near Place de la Gare via Hotels.com or VRBO. Pick up bikes and panniers, then do a flat 60–90‑minute shake‑out spin south to Prévost and back (≈16–24 km round‑trip) to dial in fit and brakes.
Evening: Pints and plates at Dieu du Ciel! (house ales, seasonal mains). For a sweet finish, pop into Chocolats Favoris for maple‑dipped soft‑serve.
Day 2 — Monday: Saint‑Jérôme → Val‑David (≈42 km, mostly paved)
Morning: Espresso and croissants at Café de la Gare, then roll from km 0. Gentle grades carry you through Prévost, Piedmont, and Sainte‑Adèle; watch for old stations with water and restrooms.
Afternoon: Classic Quebec comfort at Au Petit Poucet (on Route 117 near Val‑David) for tourtière or maple‑glazed ham, then cruise the final easy kilometers into Val‑David. Check in via Hotels.com or VRBO. Optional leg‑stretch: a short hike in Parc régional Val‑David–Val‑Morin for granite views.
Evening: Dinner choices: Le Baril Roulant (house beer, riverside patio) or La Table des Gourmets (refined Quebec‑French). Gelato or espresso along rue de l’Église caps the night.
Day 3 — Tuesday: Val‑David → Mont‑Tremblant (≈45–50 km; paved + hard‑pack)
Morning: Fuel up at Café C’est La Vie, then glide past Sainte‑Agathe‑des‑Monts and Mont‑Blanc on a lightly rolling, tree‑lined corridor. Expect frequent lakes, picnic tables, and photo stops.
Afternoon: Arrive in Mont‑Tremblant’s Old Village on Lac Mercier. Lunch at La Sandwicherie (fresh baguettes, soups) or grab pastries for the beach. Optional add‑on: continue north to Labelle (+20 km round‑trip) on buttery hard‑pack with river views.
Evening: Check in via Hotels.com or VRBO. Dinner at Microbrasserie La Diable (burgers, sausages, amber ales) or La Petite Cachée (seasonal, wood‑oven). Nightcap at Le P’tit Caribou if you’re feeling lively.
Day 4 — Wednesday: Mont‑Tremblant → Val‑David (≈45–50 km southbound)
Morning: Coffee at Au Grain de Café (Old Village), then roll south—the return ride feels new as you coast gentle downhills with mountain views flipping perspective.
Afternoon: Snack stops at station cafés and lakeside rest areas. Pull into Val‑David mid‑afternoon; browse local studios or hit the riverside path for a stroll.
Evening: Switch up flavors: wood‑oven pizza and Quebec natural wines at a local bistro, or a casual microbrew flight back at Le Baril Roulant. Rest well—tomorrow is your longest ride.
Day 5 — Thursday: Val‑David → Saint‑Jérôme (≈42 km), last night at km 0
Morning: Easy start and steady roll past Sainte‑Adèle and Prévost. Early‑fall colors glow on this stretch—keep your camera handy around river crossings.
Afternoon: Arrive at Place de la Gare. Return rentals, pick up a P’tit Train du Nord jersey or mug, and check back into your Saint‑Jérôme stay via Hotels.com or VRBO. Optional spa time or short taxi to a lakeside beach for a dip if weather is warm.
Evening: Celebrate the loop with Neapolitan pies at Pizza no.900 (a quality Quebec chain) or a second round at Dieu du Ciel!. For dessert, share maple‑butter pastries from a local bakery.
Day 6 — Friday: Old Montréal mini‑tour + flight home
Morning: Transfer to Montréal (≈1–1.25h). Coffee and viennoiseries at Olive et Gourmando, then choose one of these great, time‑boxed options:
- Old Montreal Small‑Group Walking Tour for history, hidden lanes, and sharp local storytelling (≈2 hours).
- Old Montreal Guided Food Tour to sample 8+ local bites in gorgeous heritage spaces.
- Museum of Illusions Montréal if you prefer a playful museum hour between coffee and lunch.
Afternoon: Grab a St‑Viateur bagel to go, or Montreal‑style smoked meat. Head to YUL for your nonstop return—check live prices and timings on Trip.com or Kiwi.com.
What to pack for the P’tit Train du Nord (September)
- Layering kit: light merino base, packable rain shell, thermal gloves, and a buff.
- Tire sealant and spare tubes (32–38c ideal for comfort on mixed surfaces), small light set, and a compact lock.
- Soft‑sided day bag for shuttle luggage if you book transfer services; panniers if self‑supported.
Costs at a glance (for 2 people)
- Flights (roundtrip, nonstop): ~CAD $700–$1,120 total for two (typical sale range; book 5–7 months out). Search on Trip.com or Kiwi.com.
- Bikes: Rentals typically CAD $35–$70/day (standard/hybrid) or CAD $80–$120/day (e‑bike).
- Shuttles: CAD $60–$95 pp (segment‑dependent).
- Meals: CAD $60–$120/day per person depending on venues.
Deal‑hunting tips (Calgary ⇄ Montréal)
- Fly Sunday mid‑morning outbound and Friday midday return for competitive fares; red‑eyes are rarer on this route.
- Set price alerts 6–8 months ahead; buy when nonstop dips below CAD $280–$400 roundtrip per person for basic economy.
- Bundle hotel + flight if you plan a Montréal night on either end; compare totals on Trip.com.
Short on time in Montréal? Book a private car tour to maximize sights door‑to‑door:

Private Montreal City Tour by Car, History & Hidden Gems — tailor the route to your interests and timeline.
Final notes: Most trail services (water, toilets) are at restored stations; carry a spare bottle between towns. Weekdays in September are pleasantly quiet; still, dinner reservations in Val‑David and Mont‑Tremblant are smart on Tue/Wed nights.
This 6‑day itinerary threads Québec’s best autumn cycling with Montréal’s table‑set pleasures. From the first espresso at km 0 to the last bagel before boarding, you’ll savor the rail‑trail rhythm, mountain air, and a little city magic.

